
Lockjaw
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Everything posted by Lockjaw
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Yea that engine is pretty sweet looking.
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Tim I think for the most part you are right, except when you over lap the oil control wavy ring, rather than just butt them together, which is what I did. Oil would get by it a little at a time, and POOF, I would get a puff of smoke. Not every time, and I did not let it happen much before the engine got snatched and re-rung. It is a very easy thing to do, and I know how meticulous I was during the ring installation. If his valve stem seal is leaking, he should see oil on the backside of the valve too, right?
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You must not be holding your mouth just right.... Actually, for everyone's info, there is a tensioner with a limiter on it, and you can order it from Nissan. Part Number is 13070-N7120. It costs 84 beans, which is cheap compared to the frustration of having to mess with taking the front cover off.
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Well he would have to dog the engine to really get a haze, and that is a until it is broken in. I hope it is a valve stem seal. Man I hate those wavy rings, they suck.
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http://geocities.com/zgarage2001/head.html Read this, it has the mod info you need. BTW, I thought the wood was supposed to be 1x2. As a tip, after you have completed the swap, and the timing gear is back on and the bolt is tight, if the wood is difficult to remove, put the car in 5th gear and bump it forward a little. This should loosen everything up so the wood comes right out. Good luck with it.
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The oil pressure sender is pretty notorious for failing too. Easiest way to check for oil pressure is to start the car and take the oil cap off. It the cam is externally oiled, the oil should be squiting out pretty good, if internally, you should have oil come out on the valve cover. If you don't, you could have a clogged up pick up in the pan. Years ago I rebuilt a turbo engine and that freakin' paint Nissan puts on the inside of the oil pan came off and trashed my engine. Needless to say, I NEVER EVER build a nissan engine without getting all that paint off now.
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That is pretty funny, have to have windshield wipers even if you don't have a windshield. Sounds like a good ol' alabama law to me. We don't have those stinking smog checks either, thank goodness. Glad you got your car running. Good plugs mae a big difference.
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Hey DAW do you have the spec's on the turbo cams too? I need them, 81 auto to be exact. The easiest way to get your car running is to either swap the head, or swap the valve. Either way would work. Just be sure to get the timing chain secured properly before taking the timing gear off, or you will be uttering more obsenities.
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Yeah, I have one too, and I like it since I don't have to listen to that prop out on the front of the engine. I know it improved my turbo spool up time, so I am sure it is worth a few ponies. They do use some juice though, so you need to make sure your charging system can run everything else while the fan is on. I had to go to a 90 amp alternator since my 60 amp one was not getting the job done. Of course I have AC and all that junk too.
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Lone is right, I was talking about purism, when I was referring to us Nissan guys. Hey Scotty, I bet that truck gets bad traction with an L6. As far as Honda bashing, I just don't like that loud fart pipe exhaust that people like to put on them, and of course that applies to all cars, Nissans included. I have found that as I get older, a loud exhaust just doesn't seem very cool to me anymore. As long as the car is fast, I don't care who makes it. Now if it is a Yugo or something, then I would likely bash it some. Good luck with the car. Just be careful with the boost knob. A stock honda engine will not live long if you get happy with the boost.
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hi! new, and have questions about l28 off of 83' ZX
Lockjaw replied to a topic in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
Depending on your mechanical apititude, there is a lot you can do. I assume your engine has the P79 head right? There should be a little number at the base of the head around the number 1 and 2 sparkplug. I would start by having the head shaved. You will have to find some cam tower shims to shim up the towers to reduce the slack in the timing chain, although some will say that is not mandatory. I would shave the head in increments of the shims. In other words, if you find 15 thousandths shims, shave the head 75 thousandths, if you find 20 thousandths shims, shave the head 80 thousandths. You will have to adjust the lash pad thickness by the amount you shim the towers up, so if you shim the towers 80 thousandths, you will need a lash pad that is 80 thousandths thicker for each valve.I would stay around 75 to 80 thousandths as far as head shaving is concerned. I would also get a header, and I like the Motorsports auto 6 into 1. They make them for your car. Add a nice 2.5 inch exchaust system, preferably mandrel bent with a good turbo or straight thru muffler. No flowmasters, they suck. For a cam, motorsports has serveral grinds, and you don't want to go to wild with a cam since you will likely retain the stock fuel injection. They can set you up with springs and retainers that match their cams too. They have one that is about 278 duration and 480 lift which is nice. I makes very good power and is streetable. Tell them you have shimmed up your cam towers and they will match up the lash pads for you. Add an open element K&N filter and get some sort of set-up that will allow you to have the k&n in front of the radiator. Motorsports has a kit for that, but I was not really pleased with it when I saw one on a car. I think you could fabricate your own with some 3 inch mandrel bends and some silicon hose. I would also get the larger throttle body, again from Motorsports, or you can hunt for some of the articles on adapting one from a 240SX. That is what I used, and there is a certain year that is easier to use, but I can't remember. You will also have to fab up an aluminum spacer, although you could get a machine shop to do it for you. Check your thermostat, and change it to a 180 degree model if it is not already one. You may want to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator from Jim Wolf Technology so you can raise your fuel pressure a little bit to compensate for all the mods. If you have to raise it more than 3 or 4 psi, you will need to swap out the fuel pump for a stouter one, like a Wlabro or something. There are several places online to order them. I would also make sure I was running a good set of plugs, and wires. NGK makes some good ones. I think if you will do all of that, you will be pretty pleased with the performance. OF course, you could swap in a turbo engine, but that is another story. Good luck. -
My last project Z was the worst I have ever dealth with, so I feel your pain. Some of the Nissan ring packs had a fine wire that went thru the expander ring in the oil control pack, but I have not checked any lately to see.That would have saved me. I had no smoke for about 100 miles, and then all of a sudden, there it was. My next engine is going to have an 89 mm bore, and I think I am going to use 300TT rings. If it is any consolation, I have smoke now when I shift gears after building some boost. Not all the time though, so I am thinking that the turbo is going south. Good luck with the car, but I would almost be willing to bet money your oil control ring is not right. Make sure you check the valve stem seal first. When you pull the head, and the piston edges are shiny on that cylinder, that is a pretty good indication of oil control problems.
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Ok, first you only have 50 miles on it, so it is feasible that the oil control ring is not seated yet, but I kind of doubt it. You could have a leaking valve stem seal also. With a turbo engine, and a turbo, you could have lots of issues, but I would bet money on a oil control ring. I had the same thing happen to my last engine, and I was so careful, yet, I still screwed up the expander ring in the oil control set-up. You did not say what rings you have specifically. Are they chrome? If it were me, I would snatch that piston out and put a new oil control ring on it and put it back together. Not what you want to hear I bet. Good luck.
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Well I guess I will jump in here too. I think we will gladly answer a turbo question, and we have alot of people that are experienced enough to be included in that group, and I would say I fall in there too. I think what Godspeed was saying is this is not a Honda forum, and for the most part, the reason this site exists is to get away from the other Z sites that give people crap for wanting to stick a V-8 in a Z, or a Grand National engine, or just deviating from stock. We Nissan guys that lean towards the Nissan engines have limits as to what we can do or the administrators will shut us off, and if we start getting a bunch of Honda (no offense) guys on here asking questions, that will create problems for us as well. Now if you are putting the honda engine in a Z, then that is a different story entirely. Anyway, I am not giving you heat, just info so you understand why things get said. We try to be pretty polite folks, and are willing to help with just about anything. We just want to be able to stay here instead of the other site's too. SO, that said. Good luck with your car. I would suggest you finding a turbo off a Nissan 280ZX or 300ZX single turbo only. That would fit any T3 manifold you would buy from one of the kit makers, as long as they use Garrets.
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Yea, if you have a spun bearing, you need to take the crank out and have it polished at minimum, probably turned. I have concerns about buying a running (supposedly) engine that does not have the oil pan on it unless it is in a very clean environment. All that dust and junk in there is not good for bearings, and rings and cylinder walls. If you buy it, swap the fuel injected head over and then you can use the fuel injection. It won't be as powerful since the engine is smaller, but everything should bolt up as far as the clutch and stuff. Sounds like you have a fun project on your hands. Good luck.
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Actually, I think it is a 1.3 liter engine. I would spend my money where it counts, on the Z. No sense spending good go fast money on a 3 cylinder car that will likely break when you have the Z. Thats my .02
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What kind of computer are you running Pete? I have the JWT upgrade. It runs quasi-sequential batch fire. That is, it fires in batches of three until it reaches 49% and the switches over to batch fire. It only has one timer. If I got one of the new infinity boxes with two timers, I could stay in te quasi mode all the time. I have the 420 cc injector too, and am concerned about needing more fuel than what I can do right now. I am at a point where more boost is not really speeding my car up, but once I have the EGT going I will know why. I think it could get the ecu re-chipped for those 53 lb injectors, and that should be way more than adequate. I run rich at idle, and complained about that, but I suppose I am down where you are and can't really get a lower pulsewidth. I could lower my fuel pressure though, and with the bigger injectors, the boost would crank it up there anyway. I did swap out my alternator for a 87 maxima unit and got a pulley for it at a local alternator shop since I was having problems when I ran ac, lights and windshield wipers. This 90 amp maxima one took care of all of that. In fact, I think the car runs better with it. It is nicer looking with an internal fan too, so since I have the electric fan,nothing really down there that would mess up some fingers except getting them caught in a belt. I have thought about the additional injector deal too. I pulled some info off the web the other day where you can use this pressure switch and a cold start injector to provide enrichment after a set amount of boost and even thought I could use two if I wanted too. Yes it would be crude, but way cheaper than an AIC or 6 bigger injectors. I am going to order one of those Chrysler injectors and see what it looks like and then see what Clark will do for me at JWT. I bet I would have to run massive boost to max those out.
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how many people interested in the fuel rail i had made?
Lockjaw replied to scottyMIz's topic in Fuel Delivery
Yeah I want one but there needs to be a dollar cut off. I have a wife who is watching my expenditures right now. And until I get my insurance money from the putz who hit me, I need to watch it. I just bought an EGT the other day, and I need to get my turbo built. You know the turbo is going to make me popular. NOT!!! IF he can keep it under 70 bucks or so, then put me down for one. Cheaper would be better. Just let me know. Thanks -
He will probably just get a letter telling him where the car is and how much it is gonna cost him to get it out of lock-up. I would pay the tickets and get it over with. If they figure out who you are and I am sure they will with the tag or by checking with the owner of record, they are going to come and get you and take you to jail. Worst thing about it is since you did not come in an pay your parking tickets, they are going to make you post bond to get out of jail, so unless you have extra cash laying around, a rich friend with cash laying around, or good credit, you will be in jail until arraignment or until you post bond. Dude you are learning one of life's lessons the hard way. You cannot go against the municipality unless you do it by their rules. They will always win, and they will always force you to do what they want by the point of a gun if necessary. So take some good advice from us older folks who have been there and done that and make your life simplier and just pay the price for what you have done so far, learn your lesson, and then don't let it happen again. I know it sucks, trust me I know. I would be mad too. If you want to have some fun and get back at them, get 20 dollars worth of nickels and run around putting them in parking meters ahead of the meter maid. Go down to the next city council meeting and fuss. You have to do things the right way. Check with the city you probably have to get added to the agenda.
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Good point Zya. I just hope your guy is right about those 720's. Getting them to idle on a 2.8 liter is different then getting them to idle on a 4.6. You also have to be concerned about going batch fire and hosing down the cylinder walls with gasoline. That would not be good for your rings, or you oil.
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I drive pretty normally, except I have a bad habit of spinning the tires. I really like to get the car moving in first, put my foot on the brake and spool the turbo and get it spinning good, and then bang second so it really spins then. Of course spinning the drag ta's is a lot of fun. They leave nice black marks. I also cut no slack on the interstate and if I want to go around somebody, I just leave it in 5th and boost it a little, and it is bye bye time. Of course 3.90's make it wind a little, but thats all part of the fun. When I go to the street races, I drive vary sanely, although every once in a while it is nice to get sideways in second as the boost comes up and a bunch of ricers are watching. It is kind of like if you could get your Honda to do that without hitting the curb, I would be impressed. Burning rubber is so much fun.
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and loud fart pipe exhausts....
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What the heck were you doing that you racked up 800 bucks worth of parking tickets? I am happy to hear common sense prevailed, and your idea of vadalizing a police car isn't much smarter than stealing the car back. You can do junk like that when you are 16, but when you turn 18, you have no more free passes. I have a friend who had his car towed/impounded, and they will not even let him look at the car until he pays the charges. I went down there and told them if they would let me look at it, I would pay the charges. No go. Pay the fine, sell the car to recover some of your money, and watch where you park next time. BTW, there is probably a warrant out for you anyway, so I would pay the fine, get square with the city, and call it an expensive lesson learned.