Lockjaw

Or if you want to try an fix your carbs, take it to the Z doc. I think he is in richmond or somewhere like that. They know what they are doing.

No, all you need to get from Z therapy are the rebuilt carb bodies for 175 bucks, maybe the sm needles and new nozzles, and the video. Then transfer all your stuff from the su's over to the new Ztherapy bodies and go. The 900 deal is the whole shooting match, and they are charging that becuase they are doing all the leg work. Buy a set on ebay or whatever, with the whole setup, and then go from there. Then just bolt the carbs on your manifold, and keep the 240 one for a spare. You may not need to rebuild the carbs yet. Watch the video and you will become an expert at messing with SU's in a hurry. I am waiting for my nice K&N's to get here and then I am going to find some velocity stacks to go in there. I have the 260 intake too.

http://nismoparts.safeshopper.com/118/cat118.htm?482 How about up there.

I don't know what brand we have at the local station, except the cheaper one is torco. It is 110 leaded for 4.50 a gallon, and there is some 116 leaded at 5.00 a gallon. I like that stuff. The more I mix with 93 super, the more tire spin I get as the boost comes up. Kind of fun to sneak up behind a pedestrian walking and break the tires loose going by them. Usually scares them.

OK here goes. You have to have the electric fuel pump for turbocharged and fuel injected applications. Use the P90 head. P90a has hydraulic lifters, and they suck. You can order a bolt that goes in the intake manifold off a single turbo 300ZX from the Nissan deal that will plug the hole for the pop off valve in the intake, cause it needs to go. A popular modification is to use a 75 non egr equiped manifold, and you can certainly do that if you would like. If you are not going to have AC, just about everything on top of the manifold can go, although I like the IAC and leave that on if you live where the temp gets cold. You don't need water running to the throttle body so chunk that too. I think the only bolt in fuel injected tank for the 240 is the 75 model 280. Your 240 should have a return line, but it is to small if you use a higher capacity pump than stock. Probably the easiest thing to do is drop the engine in with all the stuff on the manifold, get it running, and then start removing stuff. That is what I did. I would also make sure I had an R200 diff in the back, and a good clutch behind the turbo engine. The stock will hold up fine for a while. Oh you will probably need to find a turbo exhasut system and get the part than bolts to the downpipe. I never could find a substitute, except for running a down pipe from the back of the turbo, and I am not sure if the stock one will allow that. It was many many moons ago that I have a stock turbo. Good luck.

If that thing is accurate, I would say your car runs pretty strong. I would do a header and exhaust, and you can mill the head and raise the compression. Also a torque converter out of a turbo trans is supposed to stall higher. You can also swap the differential to a 3.90, and if you can find the auto out of a maxima with overdrive, you could swap that in. Or put a 5 speed in it.

Make sure the head temp sensor on the drivers side is connected. You may need to disconnect it and clean with brake clean and reconnect.

If it looks and sounds to good to be true, it probably is. Kind of like that prolong stuff. The only thing prolong is going to prolong in the balance on your credit card after you smoke your engine.

I think the oil in the cylinder and higher compression is the litmus test for bad rings. If you have a lean injector, you may need more than just a ring set. Ouch. Hate to be the bearer of news like that. My recent acquisition has the same issue, low compression on the two back cylinders, although number 5 is only 10 psi down, number 6 is 30 or so. Of course when I got the car it smoked like a pig since it had a homemade intake with a Ford 2 barrel , now with the SU's it is not smoking. Go figure.

He should not have shipped them uninsured, and if you use the post office for shipping anything. Getting your money out of them is a pointless effort. I guess it is something we all are going to run across someone who screws people. You can contest the charge with your credit card company. That would take care of it.

Sometimes those rings on the dampner move, and your timing marks are wrong. I have a ZX engine in my 260 that is off so far, when I checked the timing with a dial back timing light, I could not even see the mark at 60 degrees advanced. I figured that someone had taken out the dist, and had it 180 degree's out, but it wasn't. You need to check your top dead center mark on the dampner and see if it in the right place. If you can rig something up to stop the piston, rotate the engine by hand until it stops. Mark the dampner. Then turn it the opposite direction until it stops and mark the dampner again. TDC is in the middle of those two marks.

I paid 68 bucks a piston from Ross Racing, about 110 for tapered chromoly pins, and I used sealed power rings that were under 100 bucks for 2 sets ( for a 4 cylinder ). They have one nice guy named Rick, hope he is still there, and an *******, so ask for Rick. Flat top, with all the bells and whistles. Nice looking units. Ross also has thier own rings now which are likely made by sealed power. They seal well. Mine have not had an easy life, and after 4 hard years, good compression and no blow by.

YOu need the carbs, linkage between the carbs,aircleaner, and the balance tube would be nice too. There are after market Air cleaners available as well. Rumor has it the 260 intake manifold is worth 10 hp over the 240 one.

I have an internally gated hybrid and I have no problems with boost creep. What you are likely experiencing is at 10 psi, you have to bypass alot of air away from the turbine in order to keep boost low. I am going to upgrade my hybrid, and wanted to go to the stage V turbine wheel, but have been told unless I run a lot of boost, I will have to go with an external WG in order to control the boost. I think you need the stage III turbine wheel. The stage II is not big enough IMO.

If you have the stock turbine wheel, that is going to be your limiting factor. Kind of unclear from your post. My ZX is heavier than your car, and I have drag TA's and a much larger hybrid, so I would say you could break in the 12's, but if the turbine wheel is stock, I would not bet on it. Of course this is my opinion. A 3 inch exhaust will help. Good luck, the 50 trim should be a much better wheel than the GN one.

If memory serves, that head was milled about 110 thousandths, which was to much for street use. I would stay in the 80 thousandths range. I believe that is what I ran on mine and had no problems with 89 octane. He also ran a BIG crower cam. It did not hit its powerband until about 3500 rpms, but when it hit it, it thumped. I have the cam at home right now, and am going to be seinding it in to crower to see if they can fix it. I know they can replace it. I may have them cut it down a little. You need to run a milder cam with the fuel injection. There is a Schneider 274 duration 480 lift cam that is pretty sweet, and I think fuel injection will tolerate it fine. MSA can hook you up on that, and if you shim the cam towers up and tell them how much, they should be able to set up on a lash pad too. Tom ended up putting a 3 inch exhaust on that car with a 3 in blowmaster muffler. Man it was loud, and it hit like no bodies business. You should have seen it when he took it down to the drags in Tuskeegee. Pop the hood, and it is like rats on cheese. They could not beleive that car had a six in it. We always got accused of having V-8's when we ran cams anyway. You tell people you have a 6 and they were like Yeah right. I always said, I will be happy to open the hood. Let me know if you get hung up anywhere. At the rate I am going, it will be September before I get this rag running. Good luck.

Why not concentrate some energy on developing the next "rice" addition, and make yourself some money. I hate riced out cars to, and we make fun of them all them time when we see them. I will never understand why someone would want to put a big wing on their car that can do nothing more than slow it down. Why would someone want a really loud exhaust? Don't you think your car looks really stupid with huge wheels on it in which the hubs are bigger than your brake rotors? I really hate stickers. What I like are nice modifications that add to but don't over whelm the car. As Z owners, we are all blessed with cars that look good anyway, and most of the body kits make them look even better. I have seen some, however that you will never see on my car. Hey if you want to spend your money that way, more power to ya. I like understated whoop your ass power. I like it when people come up to me at the drag strip after I run a 12 second pass and go " I bet you clean up on the street, I would have never thought that car was fast". Besides ricers distract the cops from us speed demons, at least over here in Bham they do.

The hardest thing I think for the average Joe (myself included) is to watch your investments decrease in value. It is hard to keep investing, and it is hard not to take your money out, but you have to do it. Leave your money alone, you will kick yourself later when the market rebounds. I am like you watching all this money I have put into the market decrease in value. I changed jobs last year and lost 20 % on my 401K because I had to get out of it. I did not have enough time in to leave it intact with the broker, so I had to have my financial advisor roll it over into an IRA. That is not even figured into what I have lost since the market started going down. I am heavily tech weighted, or I was I guess. I am sure some of the funds I am in have started to move their incoming moneies into better performing area's. Just try and remember this. We had 8 years of democratic leadership in the white house, and we are starting to see the results of that. It took Regan a while to get the economy turned around. It will take Bush a while too. When it does come around, hang on, you will make your money back in spades. What I plan on doing is taking some of that growth off the top and putting it into stocks that pay dividends, and have the dividends reinvest. Then in 25 years or so when I retire, I should have enough shares of those stocks that I can live off my dividends. Hopefully anyway. Buy low and sell high is the hardest thing about investing. Follow it and you'll be rich, be like everyone else and you will lose your shirt. Stick with it man, we are all in the same boat.

Use ATF.

Don't use the E88. Mill the p79 head and shim up the cam towers and use a thicker lash pad to compensate. A P90 head milled would be good too. I am going to be putting a milled just a little P79 on my flat top engine in my 260, hopefully pretty soon. I have the head done, I just need to replace the valce stem seals and get a cam ground. We had a guy down at Ira's that milled a P79 and out it on a flat top bottom end with a cam and header and SU's that rocked. He ended up running my side draft webbers and I think he ran some 8.40's in the 1/8th mile. Now that was a getting down car.

Well you could have an unbalananced set of SU's too. I would rev the engine up while watching the pistons in the carbs and see what they are doing. I have been in several SU equipped cars that have turned in excess of 7k on SU's. Of course they had cam and a header. What needles are you using? Ztherapy recommends the SM needles, and they are 30 bucks a set I think. You can get them in two days. Check your timing also. The stock 280ZX engine in my 260 was a pig when I drove it, but the SU's were way off, and I am not sure that the needles were in the right position either. I am hoping it will be spunkier when I get it running, hopefully by tomorrow. You should be able to turn past 6000 with the stock cam. I can turn 7k on my stock turbo cam, but that is with lots of boost.

Man I wish it was on saturday night. I have to take wifeypooh to the airport very early saturday morning, so if I came, I would not want to stay real late. Likely I will skip this time though. Yo2001, let me know about the BFG's. We should try to go when I get my 260Z going. Not like it will be very fast stock. Maybe we should arrange a time to all go. I have two non running Z's at the moment, and considering my ZX got bashed last time I was there, not to excited about that. I need a cam. Bad.

TWM induction, Topend Performance, and or Advanced Engine Management. Good luck with it. When you get them right, it is a sweet thing.

I have read both of the datsun books, and both are somewhat dated now, although the how to road race and modify your datsun is probably the better book. Get a factory service manual or a hayne's, chiltons suck.

Sleeper we aren't talking about turboing a car is the problem. I would agree a draw thru sucks, a blow thru can be workable, particularily with engines that have never been fuel injected. My friend and I are in the process of building a blow thru turbo system for his 69 GTO. It will use a carb, although I guess we could always switch to the projection. Fuel injection for a 455 pontiac engine is not within the budget, it would cost 4 to 5k. Power projections with low boost are in the 600 HP range, and you know that will be fun. I think you can do alot with the SU's. If you want to get techinical, a batch fire FI system is a controled fuel leak too, and I bet two SU's offer much better performance that any Z fuel injection with the inherant restriction of the AFM. Run a mass air or speed density and I will not argue, but that door in the AFM sucks. I found another website about tuning su's on the internet today, but I have it at home not here. It has a dos application on it that tells you how to select a needle based upon where your car is rich or lean with an AFRM. I bet that would be interesting to play around with. I am sure once your set up is dialed in and the proper needle is in place, SU's would rock. They are really very simple.