Lockjaw

You would have to figure out how to tune the carbs to pass emissions, which would not be the best thing for performance. Of course, the stock fuel injection is not the best thing for performance. Side drafts would make a lot of power, and once you get the hang of them, they are easy to tune. Fuel injection is probably your easiest route to passing emissions.

He may be ok. I think one of the upgrades for those is a smaller turbine housing, although I may be thinking of the powerstroke. I would scope out some websites that hop up the power stroke and cummins engines and see. Bully dog and Banks come to mind right off the bat. I have already said this, but I will say it again. I don't think a stock intercooler is worth having when you can get nice upgraded units cheaply. That said, the intercooler in the picture might be ok for your boost level, as long as they pressure drop is not very much.

I had my turbo pressure plate redrilled to use the 300ZXTT pressure plate and use the 89 300ZXT disc, and I have not slipped it under boost yet. I ran at the drags two weeks ago, ran 12.66. In a full weight 280ZXT, so I know the clutch can hold something pretty stout. I use drag ta's. Nice thing about this set-up is you can get it at just about any nissan dealership. You will have to do some grinding to the inside of your turbo trans. There are some ribs in there that interfere with the rotation to the clutch, but just grind them down flush with the rest of the bellhousing. It will not work with a Nissan Jap transmission. Best part is the flywheel does not get chewed up like with the DF clutch. Hey scotty, what is the deal with your turbo? Do you know the specs on the wheels and such?

I think a closed combustion chamber engine will make more power than an open one anywhere you want to measure it. If you look at most aftermarket HiPo heads, most are gravitating towards the heart shaped closed combustion chamber.

Well I am glad I am not alone in the to loud exhaust category. That was fun when I was young, but I hate that junk now. I have a Hooker Max Flow 3 in on my turbo L engine, and it does not set off car alarms that I know of, and it really pretty quiet, with a really deep tone, until you hit it. Then it sounds good. It was cheap too. 50 bucks. It does not resonate (which I hate with a passion), and it really pretty quiet on the interstate. I bet a race magnum bullet muff or two in the tunnel would quiet things down alot, and they won't really affect your flow since they are straight thru.

In the past when I have had problems like that, I have always cleaned all my connections to the ecu and the various sensors with brake clean and then tried it again. You may also want to check the temp of the coolant with a good thermometer. I am sure the factory ecu will pull some timing out of the thing if the coolant temp is to high. Switch to 180 degree thermostat if you don't already have one in there. Make sure the rad is in good shape, and the fan clutch is not worn out.

I could set off car alarms with a 3 in set up and a round Walker Ultra Flow without all that Flowmaster resonation. IMO, a Flowmaster sucks, but it is your money, and if you want the badest sounding Z and no flow, then the flowmaster is the way to go. If not, use the Walker or a Borla. Drop you an RB engine in that thing, it will be reliable, and cheaper than trying to come up with a Z-06 engine and trans. IMO. I can't say anymore or I will get in trouble. The V-8 guys will accuse me of being a purist, but I have to tell you, I like the 6 turbocharged. It is fun. I know the V-8 cars are fun too. Spend your money where it counts, get good machine work, and a good programable engine management set-up, and the L engine will hold up fine. No matter which way you go, it costs money. Good luck no matter which way you choose to go.

The 82-83 tranny is better with 3.90's. You probably have the one with the .86 overdrive. Going to a 3.90 diff would be a good idea.

How much power depends on lots of variables. If you want lot's of torque, build a stroker motor, and put a mild cam and header on it and go. A high performance cam will not do much down low anyway, and will be happiest when in the higher rpms. You will have a hard time getting 168 cubic inches to make torque anywhere near what a nice SBC will do. Turbocharging it will make it more powerful, but again, without extensive mods, not going to get the torque of the V-8. I nice mild cam should add about 10 to 15 hp.

At the risk of pissing some people off, I am going to offer this as IMO. Flowmaster's suck. To get it quiet, you should use a longer muffler with more sound deadening material. I had a 3 in dynomax cat back on my 95 Chev truck, and it was very quiet, and I picked up power with it. It used a super turbo muffler. IF you want to use multiple mufflers, use the straight through type, they won't kill your performance like a flowmaster. A turbo will make one quiet....

The one from Top End is not referenced to vaccum. All you can do is set your fuel pressure with it, and that is it. Won't work on a boosted engine either since it will not raise fuel pressure under boost. If you want an adjustable one, JWT has a bosch one that works just like the factory one, in the same ratio of fuel pressure to boost, only the static fuel pressure is adjustable. BTW, the Top End info was based upon the one they sent me. Things could have changed between now and then.

I would think injectors have power in the on position because that is the position the key is in when the car would be running after cranked. Am I missing something? I have not ever checked mine.

Rushing an engine job is a recipe for disaster. I make sure I have pressure on the guage and oil in the head, on an L engine. Very smart to check out your suspicion.

Tony, the base timing should be set at 24 degree's, plus or minus 4 according to the sticker under my hood. I usually set mine around 20. There is a thread out there on the 300 ZX ecu swap, not sure if under here or the EFI section. That would help. What size injector are you running? I would think stock turbo injectors would be more than adequate for you application. You could also try manipulating your fuel pressure as a way to control richness.

One of the other things to consider is the carb syncronization. One carb can cause your idle to go up, so you need to make sure they are properly in sync. The SK's use weber fuel circuit jets, at least according to motorsport, so I could get you in a jetting ballpark with some basic info. Esentially would need engine size, choke size in the carb, and the sizes of the main, idle, Air control, and pump jet. Also double check for vaccuum leaks, and make sure all the bolts that attach the carbs to the manifold and the manifold to the head are tight. Good luck, it is not to tough to handle trust me.

Your factory fuel pump is probably ok, but you will need some sort of return line, which would not be a bad idea anyway since it would circulate your fuel. You will need a pressure regulator to regulate the pump down to about 3.5 psi, so it might be a better idea to get a pump for carb engines. You could go with a nice set of SU's, or 3 two barrels. I never was a fan of the four barrel setup or the downdrafts. If you are after more performance, the three two's are the way to go. Why do you want to switch BTW? Might clarify the picture a little better.

The SR20 would be good too. There was a guy at my local quartermile track for test and tune the other day that had one in a 240sx. He had a front mount intercooler, and the compressor upgraded to some T3 unit, and he was running 12.9's at 118 mph. On street tires. He bought the engine from Japan like your deal with a half car and did the install himself.

I know I checked before I ordered the stuff from JWT, and I have had it for over 3 years. I could have just had a putz answer the email though. Happens every now and then. You can get the tec unit set-up from Top End for about 1800 last time I checked. That includes all the sensors and the wiring harness and a base program set-up for your application. Plus it uses that crank trigger toothed wheel, with like 50 positions on it or something. I can't recall if installing the trigger is included or not, but it is a set up ready to go deal with no fabrication required as best I recall. I am also a little concerned about the magnets on the crank pulley. How are they secured? What happens if one falls off? Then I would also want to find a really good machinist to do the crank pulley work. That part is what worried me when I was reading the directions. I think I can hanlde the rest of the work myself. I would be interested in what they go for though. And I would like to know if anyone has had magnet issues and stuff like that. One of the reasons I went the JWT route, besides the fact that I did not have a laptop at the time was I had concerns about the tec unit coils packs and the way wires connect to it. I drove my car every day then, now it is a play toy. I could go more serious on the EFI now.

There was a post on that a while back. Have you tried to search for it? Several people have done that. I know you can keep your head temp sensor, since I have the same set up. Not sure about anything else.

If you have a diesel truck parts store in your area, they should have some very heavy duty nitrile rubber hoses that you can use to connect everything together. I used regular 3 inch exhaust tubing, had one piece bent slightly at the muffler shop, and used the nitrile pieces I bought. They are faily cheap, and you would have to suck some major air thru that turbo to collapse one IMO. Probably tear up the turbo before the rubber collapsed. These things are like a quarter inch thick, and very grippy. I had a hard time cutting mine. T-bolt clamps should not be necessary, although they look better. I have my maf in front of the radiator, but when I had the AFM out there, the car was not happy about it for some reason. I guess I could have loosened the spring a little, but it was really unhappy in cold weather until warm. PVC would work to, although I am not so sure their 90 degree bends are restrictive somewhat. Make sure you check them out before going that route.

Well that would be a new one on me Bang. I thought they changed the body style after 83 just like they did with the ZX. Could have been some runover though. Anyway, I am pretty sure I got the V pulley off an 84 Maxima Alt. At least that is what the guy said it was at the shop.

What size are those intercooler lines? they look huge. Nice lookin intercooler BTW.

Just a rough estimate, you need 250 lbs of fuel perhour to support 500 hp. Divide 250 by 8 and you get 31 LB per hour injectors, at 100 percent duty cycle. The 36 lb per hour should be fine without the FMU, and you need a pump that can do 50 gallons per hour to supply the engine, approx. If you are going to use the FMU, you need a pump that can supply the 50 gallons at higher pressures than normal. At 8 psi the fuel pressure will probably be in the 80 to 90 psi range with the FMU. Did ATI not give you any info on proper injectors? I would think they would have some info. I would also think you will have to have some sort of ecu mod to control a larger injector. Hope this helps, GM stuff is getting out of my realm. Good luck, and if you get to Bham, I would like to go for a ride to see what 500 HP is all about.

I would agree with you sleeper that 20 degree's over ambient is very good, but there are some very efficient units out there, or rather, claimed efficient units. I mainly wanted to point out that the higher the efficiency, the better off he would be. I would get the most efficient core I could afford.