Lockjaw

More compression wouldn't hurt either, and my experience with that particular cam is it is fussy. I only had it run really strong in one engine, and it was an L26 with a seriously milled E-88 ala E31 lookalike. Do you have dished pistons? You may want to consider milling the head a little bit to raise compression.

Oh set your valve lash to 8 thous intake, 10 thous exhaust cold, and it will be all good.

I just gotta take issue with that. Perhaps crane or a book may say as a general rule, but most of the Datsun books also said you could not swap cam towers from head to head, which is again, false. I have done that many times, with no ill affects. I have spoken and confirmed with Nissan Motorsports many years ago the cam data, and there is no difference in the cams for the hydro head and solid. See the thread from above for the cam info. If you are worried about it, send me your hydro cam and the rocker arms, and I will run it in my solid head, or better yet, I will sell you my solid cam for 20 bucks plus your hydro one. This is a datsun specific issue, and the hydro cam will work without issue in a solid head. For that matter, you could use a cam from an NA engine if you like, personally I thought they didn't work as well, but you could use it too, if you like. In fact, I used a hydro cam in my 240Z turbo engine, as it came with a hydro head, and swapped it out for a solid head, and ran the hydro cam foolishly thinking that hydraulic cams are slightly larger then their solid counterparts to make the same rated power. Hence the call to Nismo. Seriously, I will sell you my Solid cam if you are so worried about it 20 bucks, plus shipping and your M cam. There is not a difference.

Lets make it more interesting. You don't have to use a hydraulic lifter on a hydraulic cam for a V8 either. Sometimes outside the box is where its at.

Once you get over a certain airflow, the ecu goes to batch fire on all 6 injectors, hence the bad gas mileage. Stioch is .47 volts FWIW.

Peirburg from Cartech, 200lph, doesn't matter what psi, it works. I have seen it peg my FPG at 100psi. Its quiet, comes encased in rubber, and mounts in the factory bracket. Did I mention it is very quiet, you cannot hear it. I think it cost 200 bucks, but 6 years and going strong.

There is NO difference between the hydraulic and solid cams in the P90 heads. Use whatever one you want, now I would swap the rockers from the P90a head, since the wear pattern with them is for the hydraulic head cam, but other then that, there is no difference. See this thread in the turbo section. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=29272

You should clean all your connections to the electrical components with brake clean, specifically, the ecu, the TPS, and the MAF, since it is a JWT ECU you should be running either the Mustang Cobra maf or one from a 300ZX. You may want to check the 300 ZX one to make sure someone hasn't removed all the screens. I would also run some fuel injector cleaner thru it since it has sat for so long. Also, the MAF should be 18 inches away from the inlet of the turbo.

With a stock cam, springs and lash pads, adjusting the valves should not be something you do very often, perhaps once a year, or two. Even with a new aftermarket cam, if properly installed and lashed, you should not be adjusting the valves very often, unless you are spinning over 7k, which we all know is not the smartest thing to be doing anyway.

There are 3 turbo cams. Look on the back of the cam for a letter stamped there. The J grind is 81-82 manual transmission, B grind is 81-82 auto, and the M is 83 manual and auto. There is not enough difference in them to matter, but for what it is worth, I was running the B grind, and have not come across a J yet. All 3 cams are interchangeable. Where you run into issues is using an aftermarket cam with a hydraulic (note proper spelling) head. Unless everything is just right, get ready to buy a new cam.

Save your money, and get a mechanical head, and have someone you trust do the work on it.

There is some merit to looking into the water pump. Rumor has it the cast steel inpellered ones cool better, but I can neither confirm nor deny that. Also when is the last time you flushed the radiator? Might be worth a shot.

Yes I would recommend them I like mine. Of course mine don't come above the deck surface of the block, like a 2.8 with the factory pistons does, and I also have turbo style pistons.

Who says you can't run an E88 on a 2.8 liter with regular gas? I ran a flat top 2.8 with a milled 30 thous E88 with no problems, just that it was slower then with a P79 head. I don't think the small valves will help, even if you get more compression.

Bump spill is James.

I got forged flat tops, does that count?

Oh and I cannot use the turbonetics swing valve, I have a nissan housing.

WTF is emissions testing??? We don't have that in Alabama, yet. Thank goodness, because 110 leaded is the bomb in a turbo car.

More noise when you vent to the atmosphere.

Advance it until it pings, and then back it off a little bit. Start about 10 degree's.

Yes it does. The cam holes are there for one purpose, to make up for slack in the timing chain as it ages. If you try it, make sure you go easy on the boost.

I don't have any idea if the WG hole is ported, that would be a Jeff Priddy question. I know he ported the inlet to the turbine. I am not sure how to answer the boost creep problem. When I initially installed the turbo, and used my dual port actuator, I was using just the top port, and boost pressure was erratic, it would hit say 8 to 10 psi easily, and then as the rpms built it would creep up. After some tweeking, mainly shortening the rod on the actuator, and plumbing the top and bottom port, it is pretty consistent now. It does not ramp up boost as fast as my stage 3 did before. It makes full boost about 3200 versus 2800 before. It is much smoother, I don't get as hard a hit like I was getting with the stage 3, so I don't have the traction problems from a roll like I did before. Oh and yes it is the sport 450, and it makes a lot of power. I remember when I first got it running, and it was making about 10 psi and would build up to 16, man it got scary fast in a hurry. I think it was making around 17 psi or so when I ran my 12.59., Clark told me I have fuel to 26 psi. I think this turbo is pushing the limits of what my clutch can do, so we will see soon enough. Got to replace the HG now. I think you will like that turbo. The stage 5 flows alot of air, so you should never have a turbine issue. Would like to hear how you do, email me sometime when you get track times.

If you want one that won't break try these guys. http://www.forcedperformance.net/

Why are you yelling?

I got 20 mpg with triples. If you got less then that, you need to learn to tune.