Lockjaw

Why did you get a spec? I would not spend my money with them, I have seen to many issues. But all the applications you listed interchange, and there is no problem with the BW trans.

Do it and see, I would think it would run pretty good.

Mine can support 677.42hp.

You need a mechanical gauge on there first, to see what it is doing. What is your setup? That might help me come up with some idea's. I would do the basics, check the WG actuator to make sure it is working, make sure the hose(s) don't have any holes in them.

I don't know what any of the costs were, it has been so long ago since I had the work done. The car I originally bought had an o-ringed head done by Hesco in town, and I must say it looked sweet. But having the block decked, and the head trued ensured I had a perfectly flat surface, and that helps I am certain.

You could also measure the difference in base circles between the old cam and new one, and the difference is the extra thickness you need. Or, how much gap is there now? In other words, measure the gap between the cam lobe and the pad on the rocker arm, subtract the valve adjustment spec, and that is your extra thickness.

Yes you can have the head o-ringed, I don't think it matters which, its just if you overheated and had to mill the head, you would have to get the groves recut.

When I had a stock one, I hit the limiter about 6400, although when I changed the cap and rotor, sometimes it would rev beyond that without issue. All I can say is, it may rear its ugly head when you least expect it, so make sure your head doesn't bang the windsheild. I had mine moved to 7k when JWT set up my ecu.

Yes but no O-ring, although my block is decked and so is the head. I may have hit its limit though, but I have consistently run 20 psi without issue, for several years. I have had spikes well over 20, with apparently no ill affects.

Did you check it to make sure it is a turbo shaft? Seems like that is your issue right? If I understand correctly, the f54 block was used in both turbo and non turbo, anyone disagree? You also need to be aware to swap the dizzy mounting deal, it is different from ZX to a Z, and your timing will stump you if you don't.

Since you changed injectors, have you remapped the ecu? If not, I would think you need to do that. What happens exactly when you get the sputtering? What comes out the tail pipe? Have you tried wiring up an aftermarket tach, and seeing what happens? What about a rev limiting feature, does the SDS have that? Have you checked it? That is my suggestions. I would be surprised if you had interfereance from the wiring of the alternator, but I guess anything is possible. Good luck.

I have had mine up to 114.22 mph

You can swap the cam towers, I have done that without incident. I have however never seen someone run a hotter cam in a hydraulic head without issue's. Doesn't mean you can't. Are you planning on cutting the head? If not I would suggest the E31 would give you more compression, and more HP with the cam, maybe the compression would be a little high, so run super unleaded.

I dont' care if people think its rice, as long as it doesn't sound like rice. I run a hooker max flo 3 inch, its nice and quiet at idle, and well nothing sounds like an L6 when you are all in it. For a non-turbo, the straight thru is loud, I had a 2.5 inch version on an NA car, and when you hit it, people knew. Still didn't sound like rice.

Just get a reducer from the parts store, thats what I used.

I had the CAS issues, and that is just like the stuff I had going on. I used one from a 300ZX, and it was a little work, but it works. Look in the Dizz, under the metal cover, look at the deal under the chopper wheel. It should have some resin stuff covering it. If you see resistors and stuff like that, you have found your problem.

Nice times.

Well you may want to make sure the damper has not slipped, because if it has, you will be retiming in vain. Good luck, I would pull out the number one sparkplug, and eyeball the piston just to be sure it is at the top when the marks line up.

You probably have a bad CAS inside the Dizz, mine did that. It would start and run, but when the CAS heated up, it shut off, and I got no spark out of the coil, even with good power there. Thankfully I had one in the 87 turbo dizz I bought for the JWT swap, so I was back up and running in short order.

I had an HKS one. But it came in the car. HAHA

make sure you don't have to much timing, 20 is good. Clean the connections at the ecu with brake clean, I cannot stress how important that is. Then report back.

I don't vary my rpms, I just hold there, dump on the 2nd yellow light. My 60 foot time on my 12.59 pass was 1.97, so I must have not hit boost instantly, I am still getting used to this Stage V turbine wheel, verus the stage III. I have run a best of 1.89, on drag radials, and street tires (stage 3 turbine) . I am trying to get where I spin the tires over just enough to build boost when they stop spinning, but the car has forward momentum, so it spools, hooks and goes. When I slip the clutch, I burn off the DR's, get wheel hop, run slower et's, but I only lose about 1 mph. Its a vicious cycle, but you have to get into a rythym, and I have traditionally slipped the clutch a little leraving, not spun much, and run 12's. High 12's. Wait until the JWT dry NOS goes in, that is really going to be a challenge. My have to launch at 3k then, the NOS will be on at 2.2k. Should be hella on top though.

I dump about 3500 and find I run my best times by NOT slipping the clutch

How about a dollar figure to purchase?