Lockjaw

Do you see black smoke coming out of the tail pipe when the stumbling happens? If it is rich enough to stumble, then it is rich enough to see black smoke. I would start by simply cleaning the connection at the ecu with brake clean. Spray the connectors too. See if that helps. Verify your timing, but you should not have to regap the plugs if you are not running an intercooler. make sure you have good wires, cap and rotor. You also need to check for a leak somewhere in your intake plumbing, and verify your fuel pressure it right. I had a car that had a leak in the intake tract, actually the turbo, and it stumbled badly when you got about 0 on the boost gauge, but would eventually clear out and run. Make sure you don't have any leaks. You should not have that much lag with the stock turbo. One of the things you can do is plug the nipple on the turbo that is giving the waste gate actuator its signal, and route it from the intake instead. It makes a difference.

I like my ZX alot, I hate the extra weight, but I like its looks, and some think it is alot bigger then the Z, but it is really not. It has more room to work with if you are going the turbo route. JeffP has some schematics for the big bushing in the back end, he made his out of aluminum, and I think that is the ticket. The diff is securely attached in the ZX, and the suspension is better if you ask me. I need to go thru mine again. The bggest problem with the ZX is the aftermarket support is not there as it is will the Z's. There is some, but not as much. One of these days I will either find a nice example of a ZX and transplant my stuff, or put it in a Z and have at it. Just depends on what I find I guess.

Man that thing is nasty, and I can't tell from the pic, but it looks like there is oil in the compressor houring. Not good. It is also the T4 flange, so you will have to come up with a modded manifold, or an adapter or something. Parts are expensive for those too. I would pass unless it is really cheap, and you can get some sort ogf guarantee it is rebuildable without having to replace the shaft.

That would be a rajay with an E compressor and turbine housing, probably a 60 AR turbine. Not the best spooling turbo out there, and I would look for something else. Not to mention, it should be a T4 flange, which won't work with the ZXT manifold without some mod work. I had one, it made great top end power, but there was no such thing as shortshifting, and having boost. Newer models are much more responsive. The pic doesn't work either.

heck I won't even be greedy, 250 cfm works for me.

What about using a thermal coating if you are worried about the excess heat? I like the idea, lets do something and see what happens. I will gladly be a durability tester. After all I am good at breaking stuff. HEHE

If you are using the stock AFM, there is a little round plug about 1/4 inch on the plastic cover side. If you drill a small hole in that and pop it out, there is a screw in there that lets air bypass the door in the afm, and you may be able to "tune" your idle a little. Sounds like you have eliminated all your idle control stuff, and in reality, that is how the system controled idle, by adding extra air. You can also raise the idle at thr TB, its up to you. FWIW, mine is doing the same thing, and I had an 1100 rpm idle, added my cam, and it dropped. So I need to work on that. It dropped off when coming off the interstate, and sometimes stalled out. It is irritating for sure.

Yeah you can get pipe from the muffler shop, and 2 45's should be enough. With the flange, you need to have a very short peice of 2.5 in welded on and flared out to 3 inch, and weld the 3 inch onto that.

I don't know what you consider expensive, but it is not that bad to build one, but it is time consuming. The thing to consider though is this, no matter what else you do, the 3 inch exhaust is the foundation for building more power. Save your money, collect cans whatever, but you won't be disappointed with the results. Also, find someone who has a welder, and suck up a little. I mean offer to cut their grass whatever. I just went and bought a $200 mig from HD, and I haven't welded anything since 8th grade shop, and I am 36 now, so you can do it. Stainless might be pretty, but a rusty outside 3 inch pipe flows the same as a polished 3 inch stainless one.

James, what about the valve guide on the intake port? It seems to me that you open up the intake, but have a constriction there where the guide is, and then open it up again. Have you measured there to see what the spec is? Just curious. I would like to see what happens with all this, since I am going to be doing a head soon. Perhaps I could send you one and be a guinea pig.

Are you talking a flange for the nissan housing, or just any T3? I can get a mild steel nissan one done in town, and it is not to expensive, they usually cut me two, and have my info on cad. You may have to tweek it a little with a grinder. I started with a 3 inch mandrel system under my 1st turbo Z, and it made a huge difference. Every time I have added more 3 inch mandrel pipe, it has always been a worth while mod. I have said this before and I will say it again, a 3 inch mandrel system is the best bang for the buck mod on a turbo datsun, in my opinion. I would like to try 3 inch and transition into 3.5 just to see what happens.

I ran mine like that just to test it, and abdolutely hated it. Why would you want something that loud? Buy a Hooker Maxflo 3 inch straight thru muffler from Summit for 50 bucks, and be done with it. You want the exhaust to be quiet enough for you to hear if the engine detonates, and if for nothing else, have some respect for your fellow motorists. You have no idea how loud it gets when you are on it. Its loud.

Yo I am going to eventually go to a 60-1 or 62, so fear not. HEHE Maybe sooner then you think.

No you don't have to remove the pan, but you have to remove the pan bolts in the front, I think there are 4 or 5 that bolt thru the pan to the cover. You should also loosen the head, there are 2 10mm bolts in front that have to come out, and there are 2 10 mm bolts at the very base of the cover that have to come out, one is hidden behind the oil pump. No matter what, you are going to have fun with the front pulley. Hope you enjoy it, should be fun. I would remove the head, and radiator so you have rooom to work.

Who is this Hoover person? James, lets me know what you come up with, I might be able to do something here, I have access to Mig and tig now, and can do aluminum.

I got aluminized too. And I welded it myself, and my welds suck, but if the pipe stays in place, I am ok with it.

Jamie, I will quit being a smart alec for a second. I think for the most part, the T series compressor housings are all the same size, and would guess they are larger then my 60 AR TO4e. TimZ was making over 400hp to the wheels if I recall the dyno chart properly. I would suggest with a turbo that size you do something along the lines of headwork, and a cam change. I would also caution you not to get to dependant on the direct port, yes it will help with spool up, but do you really want to be dependant on NOS to get your turbo up to speed? Generally speaking, if you run a full T series, you will want to run a .58 AR with the P trim, and a .69 with the O trim. If you want decent spool-up. One thing to consider is the Stage V turbine is similar in size, ( the inducer is slight smaller) then a P trim, and since it has one fewer blade and is more aerodynamic the the P trim, perhaps you should look at a hybrid with a stage V turbine wheel, and either a 60-1 or 62-1 in a big housing. They both flow some pretty big numbers, and using an E housing over a B is supposedly worth another 50cfm.

I disagree, I have only seen one Supra that could hook worth a damn. Its the supra drivers number one excuse. As for fitment, you can make anything fit, look at James, he has two 16g's in his engine bay, and I have yet to figure out how he managed that. Must have a little talent or something.

How long will he have to wait for boost?????

Those may well be hybrids. You want the 76 trim turbine wheel, and a 60 trim or 50 trim compressor. .63 AR turbine housing. Call them and ask what compressor housing it comes with and if those are T04e compressor wheels. I think they are, but it wouldn't hurt to make sure before spending the money. I have heard MJM has zippo for warranty, and you would be well advised to read the fine print there, I would much rather pay a little more and have some warranty.

I run over 12 psi with a dual port. I use a MBC to introduce boost to the bottom port to control it, although I ran it for a while with boost just going to the bottom port. One thing to consider, using the bottom port makes things work inversely, ie , to raise the boost, I adjust the boost controller to LOWER boost. Something for you guys to consider with this electronic route you are trying to take. One way to adjust it is to thread the rod and adjust the spring pressure that way, and you can easily run in excess of 12 psi.

Full compression is what binding is. If there is no room for the valve to open and you have more cam to go, then you get what is called coil bind, and it will wear out your cam. Stock set-ups typically can take about .460 lift before experiencing coil bind, but again, I have run .490 lift cams with no problems, and then other one's with, it just depends. As long as you have "some" space between the spring coils with the cam lobe centered and the valve opened all the way, you should be fine. If you are concerned about it, buy a set of springs and retainers from Motorsport and be done with it.

Did you get Swain to do the pistons? Just the tops or did you have PM on the sides too? Would like to know how you like that when you get up and going.

Make a 3 inch mandrel one and put it on there, and you will see the need, trust me.