Lockjaw

I got the same except a 60 trim, and want a bigger compressor, like a 60-1 or 62-1. I am a 1mm over 2.8.

You need to consider why the factory kept the flywheel weight where it is. A heavier flywheel is actually better for drag racing becuase it stores kinetic energy, and gets the car moving without bogging, which is never fun. Also if you have a large camshaft, it keeps the engine from chugging when driving at low rpms. And it is harder to stall. Now you can lighten a factory one, best to take it out at the edge and work your way in. If you road race a lot, the light flywheel would be the best way to go, for drag, I would stay with a standard weight one. Thats what I have.

The intake ports are already match ported, I did that when I put the engine together 6 years ago. The intake is a turbo one, with the EGR cut off and a plate welded to it, and all the idle control stuff, except the cold start idle air bypass removed. The inlet is ported to match the 60 mm throttle body. I ported the exhaust manifold myself as well. Extrude hone wants 700 bucks to do my head, and personally I think that is a good way to go, but then I could get the full port job from Rebello for another 100 on top of that, and that would still include the valve work. As for bang for the buck, the dry NOS controller from JWT would give me 65 hp, all controlled by a board in the ECU, comes on at 2200, cuts off when I want it to. With a race and pump program. If the clutch could hold it, that would be the way to make some serious hp. Surely someone has done a port job and can say what it is worth. As for blending in the bowls, yes I can do that, and have considered it, but personally, I think unless you have a flow bench, you don't have any business porting or messing around in there. Probably going to leave it stock for now. Just do a valve job, and slap it back on there.

I bet the issue is the stock fuel pump. That Stealth Z guy seriously documnented like no flow with small increases in fuel pressure. As far as off boost response, sleeper and Yo2001 can also verify this, getting rid of the AFM and that damn door will do wonders for your response, even with 7.4 to 1 compression. It is a night and day difference. heck when I first got the JWT set-up, and was like the 2nd guy in the country running with the Cobra MAF, my car was actually slower due to conservative timing, but off boost driveability, and power in the 3k to 5 range was incredible. It just wouldn't rev beyond 5k with power, but a few degree's of advance, and man, look out. My car is very responsive off boost, and I have a stage V turbine wheel. Of course I have 87mm flat tops. My money says its the fuel pump, not the injectors or ecu.

Actually, HKS claimed that their intake, exhaust sytem, intercooler, and raising the boost to 13 psi was good for 245hp if memory serves. On a stock ZXT. If you want to run the stock system, and get 250, get a good fuel pump and run a rising rate FPR, and there you go. Its easy math, what are stock injectors 270cc? If so you have 6 which is 1620cc. Divide by 10.5 and that equals 154, which is pounds of flow. It takes 1/2 a pound of fuel per hour to make one HP so theoretically, stock injectors could support 308hp at 100% duty cycle. I believe the ecu does 90% so that would equate to 277hp. Perhaps your issues are more related to fuel flow falling off, since a stock pump does not pump well with increased fuel pressure. I believe that tidbit is well documented too. Accountants are tough aren't they?

The more parts, the more stuff that can break. Yes that is the car I was referring to, and if memory serves, it was a tubbed out job too. That is the downside to NOS. Either way, I always think it is funny to see a car get driven to the track and beat one trailered.

I would like someone to show me a 300rwhp chevy V8 you can get at a junkyard for 300 to 500 bucks. I would buy lots of them, and sell them, and make money. Here's the way I look at it. If you really want to go fast, go turbo L6. Anyone can drop a V8 in a z car and make it fast, it takes talent and skill to do it with an L6. Not to mention, I don't think anyone in my local Z club has bested my 1/4 mile time yet, and they dang sure aren't putting V8's in ZX's. Or here's an idea, go up to the V8 forum, and see what those guys all run compared to what they have done, and then go look and see what the turbo guys are running. We got guys breaking into the 12's on stock engines with intercoolers and stock turbo's. ( jersey right?) Going fast is expensive no matter which way you go.

Personally I thought it was funny. I mean did the guy even say something like "nice run" to you or did he just pack it up and go home? Damn that must have been embarrassing, haul your car over to Alabama on a trailer only to get wooped by someone who drove theirs up from FLA. Nice.

Well mine used to rev right off the factory tach at 8k. granted stock pistons and rings don't like to do that, but it sure was fun to have a light flywheel, sidedraft webbers and do a 7k rpm clutch drop and freak people out. A cam helps too.

You should run a thermostat anyway, your final cold start circuit shuts off at about 170 degrees. My car normally always runs better numbers with operating temp coolant then with cold, and my dyno pulls also showed that.

I am considering having my head ported while replacing the headgasket and all that. I talked to Rebello, they recommend a full port on the exhaust side, intake match and bowl work, which will include the valve work. Anyone done this? Were the results good, ie was it worth it? Anyone use someone else and get good results? If so, please put the price. Before and after dyno numbers would really be nice. Rebello wants about 550.00

The stock tank works fine until you run a larger fuel pump then stock, then you will run into problems with the return line being to small, and it will cause issues. Rumor has it the 75 tank is a direct swap, not sure. I had a half inch copper pick-up added to mine, and it worked well, until you got below 1/4 tank, then you better not do any fancy driving, you would suck air, and be sitting on the side of the road waiting for the fuel pump to finally re-prime. You could get a sump from Summit for about 50 bucks, have that welded on, either way, with a bigger pump, you will have to have a larger return line.

I have a 3.90 diff that was a replacement for a customer at a nissan dealership, and they never installed it, so I tried it, and I liked it at the drag strip. I run a 235/60r15 at the dragstrip, which is roughly a 26 inch tall tire. believe it or not, tire size has am impact on your overall gear ratio, although that gets way technical in nature, and I don't like all that mess. I noticed when I was running some short autocross tires with my 3.5 diff that the car really moved out better, so I thought I would try 3.90's when I ran the DR's. Since they are 4 inches in diameter larger, you can imagine the difference with 3.5's was pretty noticable. Took longer to get into boost, did not spin up as easy, etc. Again, there is more to this then just saying one gear is better then the other, there are a host of factors to consider, like vehicle weight, tire diameter, trans ratio's, engine mod's etc. I am also running a non stock cam, although I wasn't at the time I ran my best pass on the old turbo, and I picked up a tenth of a second, on a hot day over my best pass with 3.5's on a cool evening. It I lost a mph or two, but attributed that to the heat more then anything else. Either way, its not the mph that counts, the the et, and my et's thus far have been lower with the 3.90. Now when I get it back together, and run the JWT dry nos set-up, I will go back to 3.5's since I will be all over the rev limiter with 3.90's, although I will try it with 3.90's. It just irritates me when someone says its a turbo and you have to stuff the tallest diff you can get in there, that is not always the case, if so, everyone should run a faster time starting their car in second gear from a dead stop. Its also different from an Auto with a stall versus a stick and having to launch. Stall and auto means leaving with boost, doesn't always work that way with a stick. of course all of this is just an opinion of one person, although all me friends here ran their best times in 280Z's with turbo engines running 3.90's, with the exception of one guy, and he ran a BW and 3.54's, but he was in a 240Z, so perhaps he is best excluded. Either way, swapping a diff is not that big a deal, try and see.

What makes you think we used a points style dizzy? James I did also notice the similarity to the Rb engine years ago, and that is what sparked my interest. As for timing, if you are really worried about it, run a tec3 or an HPV1 or something like that. I have a 280 crank with 240 rods and spin mine to 7k, and so far, nothing has come out of the engine, although it did blow the headgasket the other day. But hey, 6 years at 15+psi of boost with a stock headgasket, why should I complain.

I have turned an NA engine way over 7k, had a friend who routinely revved his to 8k. To rev where you want though, you should consider forged pistons, I would also go to an added capacity oil pan, and try to lighten and balance as much as I could. Use ARP rod bolts, polish and shot peen the rods. Why not go out to 89mm, and give yourself roughly a 2.8? I have considered doing that with a turbo engine. Also, get the BHJ balancer. I would be interested to see what you get, if you go this route.

Get resurfaced ones from Delta cams. they are about 5 bucks each, just send yours in for a core. I have a set on my turbo engine, they are nice and quiet, although you may have to adjust your valves or use a slightly thicker lash pad.

at least your not bitter! For what this cost me, I could have had a 9 second L28 powered Z car that would have sent Scottie scurrying back to FLA with his tail between his legs, kind of like he did that V8 dude from Texas. me bitter, hell no.

I would double check to make sure you haven't missed a tooth on the cam gear. You should also check to make sure the engine is really at TDC before doing that, and lining up the notch on the balancer is not the way to do it, because your balancer could have slipped. If you have a retarded cam, that can cause overheating, but installation of a cam alone should not cause an overheating problem. What other mods have you done to the car?

MIne were 18mm, and it was a nissan center section, and finding the correcct fitting was a pain the ass. I got one, it was an adapter that allowed me to go to 1/4 npt or something like that. If you go that route, be sure to put them on BEFORE you install the turbo, or yuo will be

I heard one of them had a big head. You get 3 guesses where, and the first 2 don't count.

Put it on him James.

jeff only went to a .70 AR, hardly worth noting if you ask me. If I were running a stage 3, I would say absolutely run the .82, but a cam and a .82 and a stage 5, that is going to be 3500+rpm full boost set-up, not so street friendly, and IMHO, one you could get seriously waxed in on the street by someone with way less turbo. Yeah you could run them down, but what fun is that? I would also run a big injector, but then I have to question wether an SDS has the resolution to get a good idle with a 72. Not an area I can say yes or no, but I would wonder just the same. But with a cam, I would seriously wonder about that, tuning it would be fun I bet. I guess all this is why paint comes in more then one color huh?