Lockjaw

I have an HKS twin power on my stock turbo car, ie 83, and don't have a tach adapter and all works well. You can tell the difference as boost is increased, depending on your coil. My MSD coil sucks, and I can blow out the spark at 19 psi, hook up the twin power, and it works fine. Of course the 300ZX coil will fire higher without the twin power. One thing to consider, wire it up in such a way that you can take it out of the loop, and connect everything back stock, by using different connectors. That is what I did, and if I suspect the twin power is malfunctioning, its simple to take it out and revert back to stock ignition.

On my car, with a stage 3, I had full boost by 2800, with a stage 5 it takes about 300 to 400 rpms more. The stage 3 hits a little harder, but either wheel is a good one.

As long as they are not binding, you should be ok. I have run more lift then that, I guess it depends on the camshaft itself. Now you could end up with valve float, but I have never experienced that either.

Dr's will help, you can probably pick up 2 tenths of a second with them. I have found I run my best times just revving up to about 3 to 3.5k and dumping the clutch, that gets me into the 1.8-1.9 60 foot times. I want to try slicks and see what happens there, and I need a clutch for sure if I go that route.

You could, but as long as it is not wiping off the edge, I would leave it alone. The thing you want to do is replace the rocker arms, which you have done, as this will make the valvetrain quieter.

It should be ok, providing you keep your foot out of it.

Try this, take the dizzy cap off, and then put it back on. Don't ask me why.

Sweet. Congrats on your new best.

That rotomaster is not going to be a nice quick spooling turbo, if it is anything like the one I had. I would fuel inject it.

I got 2.5 and it is a PITA to run, if you are using a MAF or something like that. With your haltech it may be easier. I don't think it is worth the trouble if you ask me, especially for the HP you are after.

I got a mild crower, .218 duration at 50 thousandths, with 428 lift on a 110 LC, and it idles nice, and pulls good to my rev limit of 7k. You may want to go a little larger, and do a search, there have been several threads on the subject. You would not know I have a cam, unless you are a Z car person, it is slightly more choppy, but it will idle down as low as about 650rpms with no problems. I would err on the side of being conserative in cam selection too. Get to larger and you will hate it.

More info needed. You could have a lot of different problems. What does the boost do when the rpms fluctuate? Make sure you clean the connections at the ecu with brake clean really good.

The turbine wheel is your flow restriction, not the housing. Going to the .82 is not necessary. upgrade to a stage 3, you should have full boost by about 2800 rpms, got to stage 5 and wait about 400 rpms more. They are also more modern blade designs, which means you get a more efficient wheel, and alot more flow.

Mine went to 10000 rpms. If memory serves, that is about where mine peaked with the stock cam. That is a nice torque curve. Very nice.

Get a second opinion, that is not something i have ever had to do, to any nissan head.

You did not have to go thru all that trouble. You could have just loosened the cam towers, installed the cam, and then retorqued, ENSURING it spins freely. A day late I know.

Hey Jersey, money will be fine. I haven't had an issue with bogging, but I do have the JWT conversion, so that helps. A full weight flywheel is what really helps launching without bogging, IMO. I am going to have to swap to an act soon, so I guess I will find out what the deal is there too. Could be interesting. Unless I can con Clark into giving me a deal on something they have. FWIW, I have 235/60r15 drag radials, and they are pretty tall, which is why I took the 3.54 gears out, and put in 3.90's. They hook up really nice though.

Well I am a Z master.

OK where is my present for getting the gearing right? I have found I have better success launching at a set rpm, and dumping the clutch. If you have a full weight flywheel, it helps get the car moving before the turbo spools, so you have a rolling start, and a better shot at traction. All of my really good passes have been that way, when I slow down and run low 13.1's, my mph is still up around 113 so, but I try to slip the clutch to get a little boost, and way more tire spin. Try a 3000 or so clutch drop and see if that helps.

Why don't you just cut the pipe on either side of the BOV, and use hose and hose clamps and rotate the BOV?

You need to be very careful applying voltage to an injector, to long and you will be buying new ones. All you need to do is touch it to see if you hear a click, don't hold 12 volts on it.

I went an electric fan since I hated the noise the stock one made with a shroud when it was coupled up. That helicopter sound sucks, if you ask me, and it robs some power when the fan is engaged. Go electric.

Nice numbers there Sleeper. Real nice.

USe the stock head gasket, and turbo engines don't have vacuum advance.

Nice James, should be enough to get you in the 10's. That SR20 is making some sick power.