junglist

Why don't you just inject the stock motor mounts with some urethane? Tons of car guys do that, especially 240SX and Honda guys. I'm doing it with my stock L28 mounts with 3M WindoWeld. I've just cut away some of the original rubber and filled in the gaps with the urethane. I've yet to inject the bottom part because I don't yet have a good way to remove the rubber, using a drill or dremel has not been successful. If only I could get a razor sharp straw to push through to take out perfect circles of rubber.

www.rockauto.com has rear wheel bearings for a '73 240Z for $23.79 rear inner & $25.99 rear outer. Timken part #'s RW116 & RW117 respectively, you'll need to get 2 of each. Black Dragon sells rear wheel bearing "kits" for $49.95 of which you'll need 2 (one for each side) and their kit includes the oil seal. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/ICATALOG/Z/full.aspx?Page=97 Probably the biggest PITA you'll have to deal with to replace the rear wheel bearings is getting the companion flange off to remove the wheel hub as its on there with about 250 lb/ft.

The 240Z's never had rear frame rails. What most people do is get sub-frame connectors from Bad Dogz http://www.baddogparts.com/index.htm and weld those on over the original frame rails up front and add the subframe connector to the rear. If you don't want to purchase them, plenty of people have fabricated their own.

Jeremy has helped me out a lot looking into this for me and getting this thing up and running. I owe all you guys a lot of thanks.

Mine were this way when I rebuilt them. I forced the bearing off of the shaft with a manually operated hydraulic press, then when putting them back on, my friend carefully put an even groove around the entire shaft and we then put a properly sized circle clip onto it to re-hold the bearing in place.

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc I'm not sure if they do rebuilds, but I'd imagine if they did they would be top notch.

No offense, but did you just describe a stock CRX as torquey? If you do indeed have the 1.5 you either have a D15B2 with 92hp and 88 lb/ft or the D15B6 making 72hp and 83 lb/ft. Not exactly a torque monster. What trim level is yours? A DX or HF? What motor does your brother have in his CRX? I was into Honda's for years before I got into Z's and had a Legend, Accord & an Integra GSR. Its not so much that the intake or computer are incredibly restrictive its just that motor is meant for MPG and not power. Do yourself a favor and instead of spending any money on trying to add power to that motor and get yourself an engine swap. You could even get a later year D16 vtec motor and be making 120hp+ for cheap (you can get D-series engines for anywhere from free to $600). If you want a good Honda forum check out www.honda-tech.com You can pretty much get any info you'd ever want there. Good luck with your project.

http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/myyelloz These are not mine, just saw them when searching for something. Looks like the guy has about 10 different prints of various Z race-cars. I wish he had a print of John Morton's BRE Z instead of the Parkinson one. Anyway, just thought some of you might be interested. -Tony

I used to do that on my Integra GSR back in the day. I had Integra Type R sway bars and urethane endlink bushings but they weren't adjustable so I did that "trick".

What size rod ends did you end up using? Have you driven with it yet? Does it bind or rub anywhere?

- Front - Rear http://www.designproductsracing.com/Z_Suspension1.html

There was one that sold on ebay for $39,000...it was a Nissan restored one from 1997 and was painted an original Lime Green.

So did anyone find where I can order this or how much it costs? I have a circa 2001 HPI RS4 gas powered car that I sunk like $600 into that I haven't run in probably 5 years. Damn you for posting this link! I need this now, haha.

How bad is the glare when looking at them from the view of oncoming traffic since you aren't using real projectors, just the fake ebay ones?

New Old Stock makes a lot of (but not all) the suspension parts for Arizona Z Car.

Since our engine bay needs paint and is being stitch welded and the strut bars about to be fabbed up, here are some pics of our "refreshened" motor. First is with a chrome valve cover we just sold on ebay, second is before we put the timing chain/cover on but shows the actual red-wrinkle turbo valve cover we are using.

As the old Kurtis Blow song goes: Thats the breaks!

An update on the rear-sill replacement from Australia. Someone from the place that sells them got back to me, said he is going to get a panel in stock to work out the freight cost and get back to me in a few days. I'll update again with the costs of shipping from Australia to Washington, DC.

Got any videos of your car in action, or any pictures? Your signature is HUGE!!!!!!! You need to resize that to within the forum rules before an admin just removes it.

Why would you want this instead of the 240Z lights which IMO look cleaner since they are "one piece".

Wouldn't you be able to get more steering angle in the S30 by running the quick steering knuckles that Nismo used to sell and Arizona Z car sells now and or running some inner tie rod spacers to space the tie rods out further like the Toyota AE86 guys do?

I got some about a month ago at NAPA that fit. They were NAPA part# 269-1525. I can take a picture of the rack this weekend, but the boots fit just right.

This thread is great info. I'm going to probably have to order an OBX now.

Wow, I had no idea someone still made these. Thank you for the link. I just asked them how much shipping would be to my house here stateside. I'm going to definitely order one if shipping isn't outrageous.

I think what the 370Z gained in luggage space by repositioning the rear strut bar to directly behind the seats, it lost in cutting inches off the wheelbase and by having a conventional gas tank compared to the 350Z's saddle tank. The 370Z has 6.9 cubic feet of storage space. The 350Z has 6.8 cubic feet of storage space (for the coupe, not roadster) ...When I had my 350Z I had to travel only with duffel bags so I could cram them in under the strut bar. Oh well, I learned to live with it as the car was too fun to drive. Getting 4 new tires put on and taken to the tire place was a PITA though since I could only take 2 at a time.