josh817

All I have is a single row for a 240 and I think a 2 row from an L16. If the L16 one will satisfy you I'll give it to you, just pay shipping.

Not like this hasn't been thoroughly discussed before with people doing thickness and rigidity tests. To keep it short, it will depend on your block and how corroded it is inside the water passages around the cylinders. Edit: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=user_activity&mid=917 Look through his posts. He contributed a lot to the block boring thread.

No I saved it from somewhere. I wish I remembered where. I remember that plate bolted on the block for a trigger wheel pick up...

Oh ok. I was wondering why it didn't look like my pictures. By the way this is all I have as far as engine bay...

I'm curious how that is going to work but otherwise looks great... The part that is getting me is the two different angles and locations of the collectors. I'm guessing the secondary tubes don't have to be equal length like the primaries. If they do then I don't see how that works...

So, in another exhaust thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100277-240z-headers/page__p__940204__fromsearch__1#entry940204 JohnC mentioned an 80% minor throat size compared to the tube size to the back. Granted, he was talking about a megaphone on the end of the exhaust I think, but I'm assuming right now that it applies to the megaphone on the end of the header too. With that said, a 3" pipe to the back, would yield this where you can vary the length x to adjust the angle/taper. Did you also squeeze the throat back down at the end of the megaphone, like in the picture I posted before? I read that it is similar to the stinger pipes we use to run on our 2 stroke karts in which the megaphone draws more fuel/air mixture into the cylinder and sometimes out the exhaust valve in the case of huge overlap. Then the squeeze of the throat forces the air/fuel that came out the exhaust, back into the cylinder, kinda supercharging it. With a tuned intake that has pulses of air/fuel hitting up against the backside of the intake valve, I can see 15% gain like you said. :]

I hear yah Tony. I don't know about Xnke's collectors but mine slide on and springs hold the halfs together. I figured sliding the tubes in so you know all three tubes will fit at that end and then tacking onto the flange. Compared to tacking one tube at a time and finding out that the tubes don't sit beside each other properly to allow the collector to slide on. I'm just pulling this out of my ass... lol but it makes sense in my head!

Would it be logical to insert the primaries into the collectors and then weld? This way you are heating only one primary, so the other two are holding everything true and preventing distortion? Xnke, the price you mentioned is still pretty darn good for us who don't mind doing the work to piece it together. I'm interested to see your progress. JohnC, I forgot about bullet vanes and transition cones. I'm curious about the importance of a bullet vane. I've read about them before but it didn't seem like a major design flaw if you didn't have them. I don't think I have them in my collectors but I would be willing to cut the secondary tube off to weld one in. The transition cone I presume is this: You had posted this picture in another thread when discussion megaphone tips. Everyone was saying the best setup is no pipe to the back of the car but rather a cone on the end of the header after the secondary merge. Does that cone still help even for those who run a pipe to the back of the car or out the side of the car in front of the rear wheel?

Wow. All that for $280 thereabouts? I'm curious if I can get just the tubes without the flange and collectors. Here are some tips for fabricating. Getting those round tube ends into the square ports on the flange nice and flush: That is part 4 of 6. I watched all of them and everything before part 4 is basically how to mock up the bends and such. Since you already have the bends you don't really need that part.

I'm kind of confused on what is included for $280 and the type of welding. When you guys say tubes do you mean just 6 primaries? Maybe the primaries are cut into sections so its like a puzzle trying to figure out what piece in what order on whichever primary? I already have a flange and collectors, just need some tubes :]

You're right JMort. I'm just feeling the heat on my feet right now... I feel like I have a time limit because I'm starting school in July but even then I will have Fri-Sun off so I shouldn't freak out as much. The other reason for a rush is that I'm trying to get rid of my Honda before something major goes on it. No money, 2 down vehicles, not good. Right now I'm battling an Ebay parts supplier for giving me rotors that they say fit a 2002 Isuzu Rodeo, yet the backspacing is completely wrong and it has 4.25" bolt spacing... A Rodeo has 5.5" spacing... confirmed by my local auto stores and online resources... Anyway, onward I go! If I decide I want to bail on the truck I'm going to finish it first. I can't get half way, sell it, and be like "Yah I did that...", need some pride to it.

Lol well Tony, another striking blow today. Again I get a "oh yah off course these brakes work on a 521" then receive a link to a thread which says yes they will fit, but you have to make new brake line lines since the 521 is SAE fittings... /facepalm Once again if I had known that I wouldn't have done it because I have absolutely no idea how to go about making lines. This wouldn't be so stressful for me if it wasn't going to be my daily driver... so far though my little Honda is looking to be great compared to this. I am seriously considering scrapping the project. I've got $2000 into it, I would love to get $2000 out of it and go on my way. Be thinking about it, whoever is reading. I don't know if I want to deal with this anymore.

Sigh and so the saga continues... So far here is my list of grief: -5 speed doesn't fit, had to make a new tranny mount. -Drive shaft needs shortening, was told u-joints can't be replaced. That was wrong -weber carb needed an adapter -bought 4 wheel disc brake brackets, caliper rubs on hub scallops -bought proper 2002 Isuzu Rodeo rotors, ebay sent the rotors but they sure as hell aren't the bolt pattern of a Rodeo -bought Pertronix unit that doesn't fit the dizzy Everything except for ebay was a mistake due to "I forgot to mention the adapter" or "I was completely wrong". I wouldn't be so critical with these mistakes if I wasn't poor as a hobo. I blew my stack today when I found out my rotors didn't fit even though they were advertised as 2002 Isuzu Rodeo rotors... I'm getting tired of spending my money on **** that people say will work, come to find it doesn't. I'm happy when I can merely hobble it together and so far I've only been able to do that for 3 of the 5. I'm all out of money now so it looks like I will have to take a grinder to my new brake calipers and probably JB weld the magnetic sleeve onto the distributor that it presumably didn't fit. It looks like **** but I think it will work. The calipers don't need much grinding so that's not major. My only worry is JB welding the sleeve to the dizzy cam. I think it will hold up alright just to get me going though. I was also thinking instead of fixing it hard to the dizzy cam, maybe I can lube the cam/shaft (yowzah), put JB weld or whatever epoxy into the sleeve, slide it onto the cam. When it sets up, hopefully I made it fit and it can still slide off the shaft. I think I easily spent close to $300-$400 on stuff that I was told would work, without receiving further details or flat out wouldn't work. If I had known the "further" details I wouldn't have done it in the first place. With that said, HybridZ is easily worth that type of money if you don't get the grief of all this crap. Not saying I'm going to donate $300 though... I've got school to pay for in July, I can't give out that much!

If it is the right one, I'd say get it... Do you know the year/model?

John, I love all this information. I bought a set of headers from a boat racer that I plan on cutting apart to use the flange and the collectors. Stainless, 1 3/4" primaries, 2 1/2" collectors, made by a Herb Gebler. I'd hate to cut the pipes off. My original plan was to cut the pipes, flip the flange, reweld them with a 90º elbow so they go toward the ground instead of toward the fender. Problem is that they don't fit past the steering column. Ezzz there is a guy on ebay now selling that design for a decent price. I don't know of the quality. I guess he took the listing down but I remember seeing it up there. http://shop.ebay.com/datsun-parts/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

My only beef with Chump Car is that they planned an event in July to run from 4PM-10AM at a track that has no lights and is out in the country so animals are out there at night... I got the work call for that event and had to decline because it was just too ridiculous. Not only that safety issue but they also wanted as few workers as possible, I guess to save money. Each turn will only have one worker now, through the middle of the night with no lights. Not a bright idea, no pun intended!

I've worked several Lemons races and to be short, on the outside it appears to be fun but with the money and the rules, it quickly goes away. It depends on how many drivers you have so you can split the entry fee amongst you guys. The $500 is all that can be invested in the car, that's minus safety gear, brakes, tires, etc. I was talking with someone who was running a station wagon and he saif realistically there is around $3000-$4000 in the car, plus entry fees. Another clever way people get around the price limit is that for Lemons, I don't know about Chump Car, the $500 is per race. What I mean by this is the first race weekend, you have a $500 limit. Say with this $500 you can only manage the bare minimum. If you join a few months later for another race with the same car, you can now invest another $500 into the car. You wind up getting these cars with well over $500 into things other than safety because they keep showing up to each event. The thing that turned me down the most was the stupid games they play. "People curse" and **** like that where if everyone voted against you, you get black flagged and punished for no reason and in bad cases, they give you 30 minutes to pull everything you want to keep and they crush your car. When I learned about that, I declined the offer even though I would only be paying an entry fee. It makes me livid to think that your team can be working so hard to place well and then a ridiculous black flag is given which ruins everything and you risk losing your car that presumably has your $3000 into it. And you know damn well you can't pull everything of value in 30 minutes.

Nope, that's the place I'm using now. It's alright so far. I don't want to say any names as to not start a flame war. I just wanted to share my appreciation for this place.

If I return the kit I get to eat $25 in restocking and shipping fees... bought it off ebay. Compare the cost of what you may offer + $25 to me getting a single points dizzy and using what I have (which was $60). If you can find a single points dizzy then that would be welcomed too... Part numbers that will work are: D412-69 - 3HIT4U1 D413-99 - 3HIT4U1 D4A2-01 - 3HIT4U1 D609 - 3HIT4U1 D6A4 - 3HIT4U1 1977 4-cyl F10, 200SX, B-210, 620 Truck, 710 - Hitachi - 3HIT4U1 1966-67 4-cyl 411 - Hitachi - 3HIT4U1 1966-69 4-cyl 520 Truck, 521 Truck - Hitachi - 3HIT4U1 1968-69 4-cyl 510 - Hitachi - 3HIT4U1 1971-73 4-cyl B-110 - Hitachi - 3HIT4U1 1974-76 4-cyl B-210, 610, 620 Truck, 710 - Hitachi - 3HIT4U1 Obviously for an L16/18/20 type dizzy. I don't know what motor the B110 came with but essentially the dizzy will have to bolt to the L block I have with that oil pump/dizzy drive tang. Basically what I'm saying is no dizzy with a helical gear on the end, only ones with the keyway. After peaking around I'm seeing old single points going for $10-$25 + shipping. If you go to a parts yard, make sure you get it for a decent price so you can still make a little something and I can get a cheap dizzy. Thanks EDIT: I forgot to mention. I am also willing to take the EI dizzy that doesn't have the ignition module box on the side. I have an HEI module on my Z that isn't in use anymore so I can use that and return the pertronix. The "dummy" dizzy should be cheaper than one with a black box.

So as some of you know I bought a '71 521 truck from my dad. It was in rough shape and I have repaired all that I can. Rebuilt another motor, welded in new floors, made new door panels, etc. Since this is mostly Z oriented, I found another message board kindof sortah Datsun/Toyota oriented so that I could lurk and find out information. To my amazement, there is lots of contradicting information. It seems as if everything I read about tranny swaps (I beg your pardon?), distributors, intake manifolds, u-joints, etc. wasn't correct. I read one thing, go to do it, find out it's not how they stated it. I come back home and ohhhh so-and-so failed to mention you needed an adapter or whatever. Even worse, in some cases they were just flat out wrong. I'm sitting here thinking myself how in the world did I not have all these problems with my Z. There are plenty of things that need adapters and all that jive to work, however I can honestly say I NEVER got nasty surprises like this (other than finding out I had the wrong dizzy spindle ). I read as much as possible and informed myself. It clicks now, this place is setup in such a way to where it is easy to find information. Our boards are organized and rules are set in place to keep things on track. To add to this, a lot of our members are very detailed in their postings. No one happens to forget to mention that one year where a part wasn't the same, or needing an adapter to do something. It's all here. This truck is going to be the end of me. If I survive though, after I get my money back when I sell my Honda (because I dumped every dollar I have into this truck) I think I will donate, hopefully generously. I thought our board was one of many fan/info boards for different cars. Come to find out that although they look similar, ours is far better from what I have experienced. Thanks mods for all the hard work and thank you members for all the contributing. Keep up the hard work. I'll be back in action with the Z as soon as I get back on my feet here. PS: I started a thread in the parts wanted board for a 4 cylinder dizzy. Help wanted! Check it out please

Not a Z but I have a 521 pickup. Bought a pertronix unit only to find it won't work properly in my dual points dizzy. Looking for a regular dizzy now... I don't care if it is missing it's guts (points, condenser, etc), just as long as the shaft play isn't bad and that the vacuum advance works. Thanks guys. I'm on a tight budget so keep it reasonable please.

Wow I never knew those Nismo headers were so affordable. I'd like to know if they are comparable to Stahl, performance wise. Something to explain the price difference?

"...and authorities have since arrested the guy they believe was driving the other car. That man -- Jeffrey David Kirby -- is being held on suspicion of gross vehicular manslaughter." That part just made me livid. My buddy does the whole MMA fighting thing. Weird that I never heard him talk about this dude dying.

Mine still performs flawlessly. I never had mine balanced, nor do I ever wind the motor past 6500RPM. When I swapped trannies sometime back everything looked good from the outside...

It's a solid rod, the support should be there with just two. Can't tell from the picture on what you did but the only problem I can see is the linkage on the carb obviously can't connect with the shaft since it's pushed back. Just get some pliers or vice grips and unscrew that one, replace it with another. Don't know if it's metric or not.