josh817

Well... I tried using one of those tools with some grease, oil, and a 12 ton press, and it crushed the old guides. Took it to my machine shop and instead of using a press they simply used an air hammer and got all 12 out and 12 new ones installed in about 10 minutes. I suspect like an impact tool, short bursts will ease it in rather than applying 12 tons of steady force. They used the same tool you pictured by the way. I say get yourself a cheap harbor Freight air hammer and some lube. Mind you, they didn't heat the head or anything like that. EDIT: This is exactly what they used http://www.harborfreight.com/super-duty-air-hammer-with-chisels-47868.html

Yikes! I remember you saying something about vintage racing, Z-yah. I see you're doing a lot of DE's and stuff, is this just for test and tune? While we all wait for video, I'll just throw one in from last springs CVAR events, probably doesn't sound as cool as your does I bet but it will hold us off for now! Stay safe and play nicely out there Z-ya, us corner workers don't want to respond to a motionless driver any time soon!

That's a factory option bro. Quick change rear end so you can set it up for a track weekend. My dad did the same thing, among others (cough, breaking 3 axles), duct tape saved the race weekend to hold all the oil in. British cars are suppose to vomit all over the track, this one just had a bad case of the runs. "Factory option, removable hard top" or "I planned it that way, obviously"

Packaging tape... tape camera to inside windshield or on headrest of chair, you're set. :icon14:

Woops can you not see it? I'll change it. I do that so people don't sneak a peak at my retarded videos. EDIT: Alright now try it haha Forgot to mention that I have an exhaust leak on like... 4 of 6 cylinders... haha Contributes to the popping I'd imagine from oxygen seeping into the system. Open headers or having a short exhaust pipe would do it too though. http://www.facebook.com/v/10150111324138136 Tell me if that link works... Anyway you can hear it bogging there too. Once you get the RPM's up past a certain point you don't have it bogging, right? Same happens to me as you can see. Is there a link now? lol

We have the exact same problems! I never bothered trying to figure mine out but here is a video of my Z... yours does exactly the same yah? Jump to 1:45 to skip the bullshit. At 2:30 I showed what you are describing. I had it pretty bad on my 521 pickup that runs a DGV Weber. That disappeared when I hooked up the vacuum advance however on the Z, it still occurs. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uM05EdPeG8U

Same happens to me, I wouldn't worry about it EXCEPT that it gobs up fuel economy. Maybe it's different on Mikunis but on my Webers when I let the engine brake the car, it wreaked of fuel fumes and exhaust and I got the loud pops like you have. Fuel economy took a dump and after that I stopped engine braking down hills. Probably because off throttle at high RPM's you are drawing a ton of vacuum and going rich from the idle mixture. Horrible coming straight from the header but with a pipe to the back going into a muffler not so bad. Don't worry about it. Post a video so I can listen to the pops, strictly for diagnosing purposes.

Surprised Tony hasn't just default answered you "Put money in envelope, mail to Rebello, wait a few weeks, engine on doorstep". I think there is more than enough here to get you going. This is the point where you don't do what I did; keep rambling and thinking into it. Instead, go out and DO IT. My goals are more extreme but I mope around asking what I need to do which yields me absolutely nothing... for the past... well almost a year! As for that 7000RPM thing. You probably don't need forged pistons with one thing in mind, that you don't linger in 7000RPM territory long. Hell, break away from a light and wind that ***** up, I don't think that instant you will regret not having forged. I'm thinking more like if you're tracking the car and constantly seeing 7000RPM or spending a decent amount of time in that range (aka going down a long straight). I'm saying this because I've done it on my 3.1L, and kept doing it from when I was 16-19 years old. Not a single problem except for one thing and that was one day I slowly pulled through 7000RPM instead of banging through it and grabbing a gear. I threw a rocker arm but luckily I didn't scratch the cam lobe or lose pieces down the front cover. Took 5 minutes to get back on and another 10 minutes to set my valve lash on all 12 rockers. Don't forget, lower gearing can be a make believe power addition. From http://datsunzgarage.com/ his L28 with SU's, 10:1 comp., geared lower but not extremely low, I don't think he said forged pistons, doing the regular old 7000RPM fun run down the road, dynoed @ 168HP: Whats this a 2.9L? Running a VO7 crank, stock 280 pistons, mild crane cam, 10.7:1 comp., twin SU's, 4.11 rear end, revs to 8000RPM, best run is a 12.8 sec quarter mile: First video, you can visit his website and read up, second video he has more if you want to check them out. He posts details about the setup and sometimes even more stuff in the comments he leaves. Oh and again Tony is right (I hate when that happens, how does he do that?), VO7 crank not revving.... forget about that. Video I posted on the first page are both VO7 cranks I believe of course with lots of time and money dumped into the motor, but it doesn't have to be that way.

Patton Machine makes an EFI conversion setup for your SU's I believe. You keep the SU body and an injector/adaptor plate should bolt onto the top where the dome/flat top/diaphram thing was. Pricey but it should be relatively easy to install and they give you everything you need from fuel pump, injectors, sensors, to ECU. I've only seen them on Triumphs at my fathers shop but apparently the ECU is programable too. You can buy just the injector adaptor thing for $125 for each SU and do your own with everything else. Extrudabody SU EFI concept thing whatever you want to call it: http://www.extrudabody.com/servlet/the-319/Kit-cln--Twin-SU-fdsh-Stromberg-with/Detail Thread with the SU EFI conversion discussion. Tony mentions Patton Machine: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/85654-su-fuel-injection-manifold-conversion/ Link was provided in Tony's post (#2) from the above thread but here it is if you are feeling particularly lazy : http://www.pattonmachine.com/Pricing.htm#Conversion_components_to_build_your_own_kit

I look like a hillbilly driving my 521 down the highway doing 65MPH at like... 4000 RPM or something lol. I got lucky with my Weber set and didn't need any jet changing and my butt dyno which is worthless told me that it was probably around 200HP. The old 2.8 with the Holset pumping out 12PSI seemed to feel only slightly quicker. Then again I'm doing 3.1 liters. The nice thing about the triples is the accelerator pump. Even in the winter, just pump the throttle a few times and it fires right up. I do like MonZters 240. Buzzy yet I bet he cruises smooth as can be. Your goal is feasible without being intense and insane! The big guys already told you what you need to know. Just keep reading around and get a feel for all your options. A reminder for you:

He was probably pissed because his dad didn't put the plastic fenders on. I always thought they looked cool when I driving. Dad put smaller tires in the back to help me accelerate through turns and I was legitimately pissed about that thinking it wasn't as cool as running the big fat tires. I guess it's good he was able to go from face in the dirt to strangling the other guy in under 3 seconds. None of that seat belt, window net, arm restraint hassle. I wonder if the dads got into it too, that wouldn't be unusual.

Didn't require leather or anything did it? I work at race tracks waving flags when people wreck their stuff. Sometimes work for my dad at his restoration shop.

Don't forget pictures and video so we don't have to attack you.

Don't worry too much about milling the head down a lot. You spent the money for the adjustable Kameari idler gear and if I remember it can adjust up to 3-4mm of slack plus you can shim the cam towers a little too before you run out of valve adjustment/lash.

Haha thanks Tony. I got the truck inspected today and made the first hour long highway trip home without overheating or anything. My mom and I have had a very bad taste in our mouth with this truck. Even though it's working now, and just about everything except the body and suspension is replaced, I still have my doubts. The buyer for my Honda bailed on me the day before he was suppose to pick it up so I'm scrambling around desperately to get my $2800 back. Luckily none of my friends came home this summer so I don't have to bite my lip and say no I can't go to the movies because I literally have no money. It was a shitty situation for the past week trying to fight overheating. The inspection is coming up for the Honda at the end of this month but the check engine light is on for "emissions" and Mom had no money for me to borrow so I could try fixing the overheating issue... So luckily I have the truck squared away so I'm not doomed at the end of the month.

I think the belt squeal is from the alternator. I had snagged the Geo Metro alternator from our BMW because it was a one wire... Dad likes it because it's very small. Anyway I had to make a spacer, grind on the bracket, hobble it together. It was lined up correctly but I assume it may be off by a tiny bit and squealing. Filled the radiator up with water and half a gallon of straight antifreeze. When I start the car up it's fine, when you rev it, the squeal begins and doesn't go away even at idle. I feel like a butthole now for talking **** about the DMV. I got through right away and the lady said it would be fine. She also informed me that the transfer title form doesn't need the previous owners signature since it's been so long. The title needs a signature, but you know... lol

God I hope not. That would mean I would have to retitle it, would it not? Seriously have some questions about that now... How to go about doing this and such.. EDIT: Did a quick search and luckily Texas isn't like California where you owe the previous years registration, if the vehicle wasn't registered as nonoperational. "Registering a non-operational vehicle is not necessary. If the vehicle is not parked on public roads and you're not driving it, you can hang on to your money and register the car once it’s up and running again. When you do decide to register it, you won’t be responsible for the registration fees for years past as long as the car was not running." I guess I will call at 7:30 when they open and snag the first person. I CANNOT afford ridiculous fees and/or wait times unless if I can get temporary tags to hold me off.

Ahhh I see what you're saying. I'm curious if just the back of the title is enough or if I need to use the Transfer Title application too (Form 130-U). I think the Transfer Title app. is for tax purposes and the stub on the back of the title is to get it in your name. Both need signatures. I think you're absolutely right, as usual, Tony. There doesn't seem to be any time efficient, cost effective, minimal paperwork way out of it unless if it's just signed and turned in. Pay my dues to the state and get on the road. I too think it's kind of ridiculous that the state can collect 3-4 times on a single car. Luckily vehicle tax is only 6.25% and with vehicles older than 20 years you pay tax for the cost you paid and not the determined value. That would be $25 in my case. Edit: Forgot I had a video. My annoying rattruck. I'll be searching around for peoples threads of Datsun road trips. I really want to take this truck to New England. Don't know if it would make it. Don't know if the rust will kill it within the 2 weeks that I'm there. lol

I had a feeling it would be that way. For some reason I remember the Z being a PITA with the title and everything, it could have just been out of state sales tax or something. I remember it took another $700 just to get it registered. My only question is, my name on a title, with someone elses name on it? They wouldn't go "uh Joshua, this title is for Silvia"? Excuse me for any idiotic statements, I just woke up. lol

The date on this title is 08/08/95... I however am still within 20 business days of ownership but I have a feeling I'll be getting hit with late fees... Well wait that wouldn't make sense. I have a Honda Civic and the title from that is probably from '99 because we've owned it that entire time. The date when I received it shouldn't really matter... I bought it from my dad so as far as I'm concerned I could have bought it yesterday. This title has no signature...

Sounds good. My brother in law was saying I may have to sign up for a lost title. Whatever happens it can't take like a month to do or cost a ton of money... I have the address of the lady, wish I had the phone number. Still trying to look it up online and maybe contact her. Does a "couple of bucks" constitute $1-$25?

Alright so I just got my 521 tuck running and I have the title. Only problem is that the title has changed hands 4 times now, however is still in the first persons name. For instance, some lady owned it, my dads friend bought it, then my dad bought it, then I bought it from my dad. Obviously the transfer title application needs her signature, so what do I do now. Last time the truck was registered was 1996. I have no idea where the lady is, if she's even alive.

Nope theres nothing back there except the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate.

If your deal falls through, and you find out if the L16 pulley will work, just send me a PM and it's yours free. The Z dampers should have an inner and an outer hub with rubber between them. The 4 cylinder L engines, I'll have to check, are usually solid pulleys. I think I remember mine being a damper though. For $300 you might as well get a nice damper instead of an OEM one or whatever. The problem with older dampers is that the rubber will rot and the outer hub winds up slowly spinning around the inner hub. Not the type of spin that you can see, but over time it will twist. One thing I did on mine was drill a 1/8" hole in the V groove, through both hubs. Then you can slide the drill bit or some 1/8" rod through there. A few years later when I had to pull it off I checked again and the bit didn't go through, meaning the outer hub twisted, and therefore isn't balanced anymore. Maybe not a big deal but I changed it out anyway.