josh817

Sorry... I kind of raped this thread. :[

Not for the street. I have it registered as an antique so that when I do something I can test drive it. Its going to be a track only car and I will find a club to run it in. Now that I'm looking at mechanical injection though, it looks even simpler than carbs but thats because it doesn't offer all the things carbs do. I'm going to do more research on whether the car would run... worse than horribly when part throttle. I've seen cars at the track in vintage that run and kinda sputter when going through turns but still do great as long as they can get on the throttle well without any bogs.

Ahh I understand now. So I guess either extremely large, EFI, or... perhaps mechanical injection. I've seen some mechanical injection systems but they all show a full throttle best running condition, so that would be comparable to carbs with no chokes I'd assume. This time instead of going lean, you would go rich I think. I've always tried to avoid the other side of the tracks, EFI, for me. I'm sad but shouldn't be surprised that they run better. Lol

That is correct. I just measured our 45mm Webers and its 45mm at the back where the throttle plates are but at the front its actually 48mm. There is a little step/bevel which is 50mm but that is where an airhorn would insert (to make up for the thickness of the airhorn walls which is 1mm). The body/barrel itself has a natural taper of 3mm. If I wanted to go 50mm then the front of the carb would have to be 55mm for the airhorn to slide in and then step down to 53mm for the barrel. I'd show pictures but my computer is broken so I can't upload. EDIT Here is a 40mm from the front. You can see the step, at first I thought it was a liner or the end of the choke tube. Also note the vent hole for the float bowls. The hole tricks you into thinking its a certain thickness but actually when you look into it, it opens up bigger. Point being if you see 5mm of material on the outside and gouge it out, you're going to break through the other side after you get about 3mm in.

Woops yep,you're right. I was looking at the wrong box. Lol

They're just regular cast aluminum pistons. Find out the diameter of the piston and obviously thats your bore. If its 89-90mm then its probably a KA24DE piston, should have a dish of 2.8CC I think. L28 pistons should be like 86mm stock and then probably up to 88mm oversized. Dish volume for those would be 10.9cc. Clearly the label says L28 and then it says .50 so that's probably in millimeters, thus 86.5mm bore and as stated 10.9cc dish according to this: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/calcs/engine%20builder/index.html Like I said, regular cast pistons, you can see the casting marks on the side around the pin. It looks like a grid. My ebay KA24DE pistons that I bought for my motor came in the same NPR box and rings packaged the same. I got them for $60 for a set a 4, had to buy 2 sets. Here are mine after the pins were pressed in, you can see the box in the background:

The fact is that I could buy 45mm 48mm or 50mm Webers, I'm just a cheap ass. I'd have to get a price quote from my machine shop and then see how much throttle shafts, chokes (main and aux), and horns are. Sounds like a lot of money and its probably better to just buy the proper version. Whats your Rebello application? Street track? I've heard of Dellortos but I don't know whats available for them. I'd really like to stick to Webers, since that's what my father taught me. If I have any questions he can answer. Solex/Mikuni/Dellorto he will be like uhhhh I don't know for sure. He could make assumption but wouldn't be positive unless they are truly exactly the same. Also he does British cars. Every British car that has come in with something other than SU's or Stromburgs has a Weber DGV or DCOE. Point being, Dad is a distributor for that stuff so I wouldn't have to order online. Just tell him what I need. Yay.

I'm a bean counter for sure.

Whats the reasoning behind 45mm ITB's making more power, other than velocity? I know you speak well of fuel injection, if thats the type of ITB you are talking about. What I'm getting at is could a 45mm ITB be comparable to a 45mm Weber? I don't know how ITB's are setup but do I would assume they don't even use chokes. From what I've seen its strictly a body with a throttle and an injector. Natural taper to the body itself when machine? Is there a point where although its a higher velocity it chokes the motor? Peak power would be at a lower RPM than a 50mm carb? Tony, you've seen a lot. So far you have said you've seen no chokes. What about bored out bodies. Obviously Z-Ya's carbs are bored out but I want to know if it is as simple as sending it to the machine shop and having them bore it out and then fitting chokes for that bore and rejetting? If I can get away with boring a carb body out to lets just say 50mm, and I'm able to fit 50mm Weber chokes no problem, along with rejetting, I'd be thrilled. Something about just seems fishy though. I'm curious how thin the bore walls are AKA bore it to 50mm and find pitting and cracks from breaking through into who knows what. I also worry that jets which are needles, like the idle jet, would be protruding into the bore and somehow prevent me from continuing on. I have all these nightmares of me destroying a carb body. You see my logic though, right Tony? If a book says 50mm-55mm carbs are needed for 8000-9000 RPM (what did they spin up to in SCCA and IMSA?) on a 2.4-2.8L then if I'm wanting to do 7000-8000 but with 3.1L I'd need a 50mm, like them? EDIT: Tomorrow I'm going to take some measurements. We have an extra set of 45mm carbs. I want to see if 50mm would even fit within the bolt holes. Also on the front of Webers is like a breather hole or something, right about the left barrel. That sits close the the throat too. 45mm to 50mm would be 5mm difference so 2.5mm on either side of the barrel. Supposedly a 40mm is the same body as a 45mm so if drilling a 45mm works, then drilling a 40 should work. Sounds make believe in my head, to do it cheaply. I actually can't even find chokes or horns for the 50mm Weber. Best second option would be get a set of Mikuni's or Solex's and rape them or just settle with 48mm bore size which I can find stuff for. 48mm sounds like a happy medium between 45mm and 50mm when I think about it.

The ad says 4 wheel drive... Jeeps sound cool but everyone lifts them. I don't wanted a lifted truck and I don't want knobby tires. Sigh.

I can't do that sort of fuel economy so I will pass. 18 highway is worse than my Z and its carbs aren't even adjusted lol. 1,000,000 miles comes with... 1,000,000 personal stories that I don't want to know about, judging by the interrior on that bad boy. There was a moment where I was seriously considering this military truck. It was like a pickup version of a 6 wheeled cargo truck, the type with the canvas top on the back. The pickup version had 4 wheels, looked real stout. Can't imagine where you would get replacement parts though.

>_> You threw parts in my car? ...Nick? If I had known it was you then things would make more sense lol. I only took my computer to geek squad to have them look at it, not to have them fix it. I already tried running off just the cable too. Also nope, in the stuff you gave there wasn't a diff. mount. Did you happen to have a hatch that you were trying to get rid of too? I have someone who wants one so if you have one you want to sell. I'm thinking a Frontier is a good idea too. As long as the fuel economy is above 25MPG highway for daily travels I'm fine. I don't care what it guzzles when towing. EDIT: The Cherokee's are much more affordable than Wranglers. Found one with a 6" lift/ac/good off road tires for $3500. I assume a regular one is cheaper.

WOW Thank you for that video! Didn't know there was a class action law suit against them! I still won't fix it, I want to get rid of it. Considering he just said it was due to heat, means it will probably happen again.

Don't mind acceleration situations. I understand that driving to Texas World Speedway from Keller, Texas won't take me under 2.5 hours anymore nore will 145mph stints exist. LOL Big change, to cruise along at 55mph. I'm not even sure if its the motherboard either. Tried reseating the memory sticks and then disconnecting everything and holding the power button down to get the static out if there was any. Still does the same thing which is the lights on the panel come on but you don't hear a fan boot up or anything and there is nothing on the screen. Then it shuts off after 3 seconds and starts again by itself. Still no fan, lights still light up but not the caps lock and number lock LED's flash. I read it was a diagnostic thing and the pattern of flashes matter. Either I don't have a pattern or its flashing 1 time because both LED's flash at the same time once every 2 seconds or so. Its just very aggravating because I didn't even drop it. I'm one of those people who want to be sure that it is truly and fully broken (AKA shoot it, drop it, **** on it). Literally all I did was take it into the other room so... I'm looking at an Asus desktop now. I'd like to sell this laptop, knowing it won't start up. I saw one on Ebay for $200 with 10 bidders and he clearly stated it will not turn on. I'm willing to sell this thing for $200-$300, so if someone knows how to quickly fix it then good for them. Motherboards will be $250 so its like if you want an $1100 computer that needs some fixing, you can get it for under $600. Sounds far fetched to me but who knows. Maybe there is an interest. Hell, its Ebay!

On this board there is a thread concerning different heads and their flow. It said that if you keep the liners it makes an alright street ported head since the liners help straighten out the flow or something. May still be worth your time.

Well the truck thing is going to be put on hold for a little while now. My computer took a dump on me 2 days ago so now I have to rebound from it. Never buy an HP laptop. I literally turned off the computer, brought it into the other room, turned it on, and it wouldn't come on at all. Geek Squad said my motherboard is dead and I'm like... all I was doing was watching a youtube video on welding... Would cost me $500 to replace and it wouldn't be warrantied so if it happened again I'm just further more screwed. So... $1100 laptop gave me 1.5 years of use, suppose to five me 4 years at least. I'm 1 month outside of warranty and from what I've read, HP has had dead motherboard problems for not just their DV7 series but DV6 and DV9 series as well, so they knew about this. Nice. Going back to a desktop now. Seeing that little Toyota is promising yet scary. I wouldn't mind buying a nice set of Hawk pads for the truck. I'm seeing all sorts of trailers for under $1000 with dual axles and wood floors. Only thing I don't like is that they have rails on the sides. I can see them being useful though. EDIT: I was thinking about a Jeep Wrangler just the other day when I saw one at school but I read online that anything over I think 3000 pounds and it may be unsafe. Also noted that it was short and stubby for a truck and like you said pretty light. No bed to put stuff in... Nevermind, they're pretty expensive. Do realize that I won't get more then $4000 for this Honda. realistically probably $3000.

Well... you know what I mean. It's my moms old car. When I retired the Z I got the Honda. The tranny was dead in it and she took it to a shop where she inevitably got owned. She paid $2000 for it and my brother in law was like... are you serious... I paid that much for my heavy duty diesel truck tranny. Then a week after we got the car back it started over heating. I urged her to take it back under warranty. She took it back and I knew I should have been with her because once again they owned her. They said the radiator was clogged up and she needed a new one for another $200. When she got home and I found out I was like that makes NO SENSE! It never over heated for the past 100,000 miles and then we give it to THEM for a week and now it does? That's under warranty, we shouldn't pay anything. Of course typical Mom, she says to not hassle her about it and "whats done is done" which is not the attitude that should have been used when needing to go kick someones ass. I feel bad for her, I really do. When I get a good paying job I think I will do something super special for her that costs the same amount that she got snatched away from. I should have been there to be like OH LAWL WE DON'T NEED THAT. Thus the reason why I do my own work. I've seen certain shops puposely brake **** on cars. Or if they didn't make enough hours on something or went over budget, they'll say something else is broken or needs fixing, to get the extra money. Seen all those things happen. I have a hard enough time giving the keys to the guy so he can drive it into the garage. Let that happen one time and never again. That's the end of my rant. Thank you. Point is its 115,000 miles and the stuff that usually goes out has been fixed so it should look peachy to dealers.

That looks pretty good. I was thinking about that or maybe a Toyota Tacoma, or my room mate has a GMC Sierra but it has a V8. My dad bought a 1980 Ford F100 or something. Its alright and it has an inline 6. You can find those all day cheaply but I don't want to deal with problems (although probably easy to fix) from previous owners since its old. EDIT: John, do trailers usually come with brakes? I thought those were the expensive ones. The only brake setup I have seen in person was some dudes Porsche trailer had a bar or something in the toe hook/neck thing so when the truck slowed down, pressure was exerted and pushed the brakes on the trailer.

Yah when buying used I think I'm going to be scared away from the diesels. I have a hunch they will be expensive to buy and expensive to repair. Plus that sounds a bit big for my use. Remember I said I want to keep it as small as possible while still safely towing. If it can pull a 5 car trailer then its too big.

As stated, I'm looking for vehicle ideas because I don't wish to drive my Z to the track anymore. I figure I'll need a 16ft trailer with 2 axles? Z car is a '72 stripped out so it can't be that heavy... I don't want a big honkin' truck. Whatever vehicle I get is also going to be for daily driving so it needs good gas mileage. Right now I drive a '98 Honda Civic that has a new automatic tranny, new radiator, new exhaust manifold, and good tires (better trade in/sell value?). I'd like to sell it and put the money towards the tow vehicle. Looking for something as small as I can get but can still tow the trailer with a Z on it safely. Thanks guys.

I'm just having trouble seeing how a 50mm would work better. If the intake port is 39.5mm then a 45mm with a 40mm choke sounds reasonable. I'm figuring as long as the choke isn't smaller than the port. Hmm... Running no choke was an option I first read in that How To Modify your Datsun Book: Running with no chokes doesn't sound like a super idea to me though. I think that with a 3.1L displacement that and around a 7000-8000 max RPM 50mm seems needed. Now I'm wondering how much it would cost me, how will it mess with jetting, and will Webermm chokes and aux. chokes bolt in/fit/work properly if I were to drill out. I can't find anything on Google about it except for motorcycle carbs.

I think its for those who run no vacuum advance or brake booster, so that would be for racing. Now that I'm thinking about it. The whole point of Weber's, Mikuni's, Solex's, etc is that you want each intake pulse to be separate from one another so its a defined pulse down the runner rather than a big mix up of pulses in one collector. This would allow you to tune for... better efficiency? Whats the term the EFI guys use, volumetric efficiency I think. Anyway, a balance pipe seems like it would make the individual pulses of vacuum distributed throughout the manifold... Seems like it would defeat the purpose. I have a balance pipe, now I'm upset. The balance pipe helps for equalizing the vacuum so for those who are using the brake booster, vacuum advance, or as I just recently discussed with Braap a MAP sensor, it will work properly when using a radical cam that would cause vacuum problems when its not "in cam". Have you ever heard V8 dudes putting in huge cams and all of a sudden their brakes aren't so great and the ignition timing is kind of funky. The larger cam kills vacuum and if you are only pulling from a single runner (single cylinder) for your brake booster then it won't work as well which is why you use a balance pipe or a vacuum reservoir. You know, the whole variable compression thing. Radical cams with long duration will have a lower compression at lower RPM's due to the timing events between valves and pistons. As the RPM's come up and it the cam kicks in (THATS MUH VTEC BABY) the compression rises and the intake pulses become more defined. Hey, I typed a lot. Sorry.

Hm I never knew that. I always thought it was a budget or availability thing but that wouldn't make sense for BSR I guess. I wonder what the rules called for. I know the 1972 SCCA GCR says 44mm Mikuni's but 45mm Weber's are allowed in substitute, then again thats not C Production otherwise it wouldn't have the big fenders. Well I guess that's bad news. I don't want to run 50's. :[ What is your application, like displacement and stuff? I'm doing another 3.1L. I blew off my idea of running Vintage because I have so much stuff that wouldn't be allowed. Final question. I stated that the Weber 50mm carb is a "special" body, that being different from a 40 or 45. I wonder if the bolt spacing is wider, meaning I can't use the manifold I have now. If so then perhaps someone can shed some light on drilling out carbs, pro's and con's. Sigh.... You sure I can't just run a 45mm with a 40mm-43mm choke?! Grrrr

Probably drilled out. I wanted to do that but was told to just purchase the proper carbs. I wonder if 50's are necessary to breathe with this sort of port. Perhaps at high RPM's, like 7000 and up to make power. I was hoping to go for Weber 45's as they should be the same bodies as the 40's and not a special body like the 50's, I think. Hopefully I can get away with 45's and just not choke them down as much... By the way: http://www.311s.org/PDFs/U20Eng_TrnService%20Manual40.pdf Go to page 80 on the PDF file (not page 80 in the document), should have a service manual for the Solex 44PHH.