josh817

I like how everyone responds with a simple solution. I guess I'm not one to rig something up, but then again, when money is tight, do what you have to do. Another thing you may check out is Devcon filler. Two part filler like bondo, they come with a titanium version or something. They use it to repair nuclear reactors and ****! Hahahaha. Its expensive, but you only need a little. I think they may come in the little syringe tubes like you see the with the plastic glues. A pound of this stuff is $100 though I believe. Search Google for "Devcon", its good stuff, I think they also use it to MAKE bolts for those giant applications that the bolt is a special order and they need one now. Make it out of Devcon, it holds up to the torque.

Time to acquire tools my friend. Maybe find a Harbor Freight. My dad bought an engine hoist for like $80. My point is, that crank snout is dead. And if it saw a lot of miles and some higher RPM's with that bad key, bearings may be dead too.

Hey guys I have a 1972 240z, use to be an automatic tranny Z, for wiring harness reference. Just recently my running lights stopped working. My headlights work, but the running lights do not. I traced it down to the fuse, third from the bottom on the right side of the block, labeled "Park. Tail". I changed the fuse, was good for like a week, they went out again today. So I take out this fuse but its not broken, it has like syrup stuff on the inside it looks like. So I put in a new fuse, every works. I smell that hot plastic smell so I shut it all down and I check, fuse isn't blown, its the right 20A type. Around post for that fuse on the plastic block, its melted. On my fuse cover, you could see it got really hot on one tab, but not the other. The dead fuse from before, shows the same symptoms. Fuse You can't see the melting on the Park. Tail fuse, but its there, only on the side closest to pull tab. It seems like only that fuse prong thing was getting hot, and not the other side. I suspect whats happening is that I'm drawing nearly 20 amps somehow, so it isn't blowing the fuse, but its slowly overheating it. My the only idea I have is that I had one light loose inside the dash. It was a light from a boost gauge so unlike the Datsun lights where it just has a 12v wire and it grounds through the gauge, this one has 12v and a ground wire. The light had pulled loose so the 12v was floating around back there and the ground was still hooked to the light. I would think thats the problem, however if it touched ground, the fuse should blow right away, or **** should begin melting. My other theory is maybe the map light. I noticed that when I moved the vent right above it, you could feel it hitting something and sometimes the map light wouldn't work. Every since this problem, the map light hasn't worked, regardless if the fuse is new or blown. The dome light works, but not the map light, I don't know if the map light uses the same fuse as dash lights... My final theory is the rheostat. It never worked. Maybe its acting up now? What else is hooked to this fuse. I can't think of anything thats wrong because when I put a new fuse in, all my lights work, meaning no stray wires. I'm confused, and worried from the heat. I'd say don't put a fuse in but its my running lights, I need them since that includes the tail lights, for obvious safety.

Would like a full set of new or refurbished rockers.

I wanted to get the ones I had refinished at the machine shop...

Everything as in whatever it takes to do the cam, or everything as in cam, springs, and retainers. If its the second option, I am very pleased with that.

How much does it usually cost? Just the word billet, makes it sound expensive, but then you have to think that many of their grinds, are done on billets anyway. We'll see...

I think I will call him. I need to order springs and Ti retainers. I tried emailing them on what sort of springs are necessary for my application but I didn't get a reply, as usual. I find that most business website emails never work out, probably because they receive so many. It would be nice however to have them do the cam, springs, and retainers for me so I don't have shipments from different sources. Web Camshafts does have a custom grind form however it doesn't ask for measurements, it says whats your application, how to you intend to use it, etc which I find EXTREMELY annoying because I don't want someone to advise me on what grind to use. I have my own grind, I just need you to grind it.

Not concerned about them converting. What I am worried about is say for example on this cam card: How will a cam grinder know at what degree will the lobe start to rise, I mean, when lift is less then 1mm. You can see on that cam card, there was 61º of duration on the intake lobe before it hit .050". I don't have the "Duration Adv" figure I guess you could call it as its shown on the example. I only have duration and opening/closing time at 1mm of lift. To make it easier to consider, I could reword my question. Can a cam grinder, grind me a cam, if I give him only @ .050" of lift measurements? I'm not worried about it being metric, I'm worried about not having raw duration figures. Yes, I am worried about the cam going flat problem too. The grind I have is radical, in the sense that its opening ramp is like... instant. Do you think it would be wise to have the cam nitrided (or some other form of hardening) after I receive it, or should it be hardened enough right out of the box? Same thing with rockers, should I have them hardened too? I'm going to need someone to refinish them since they're old used ones. If the wipe pads are only shell hardened, then I will need to address it.

Oh like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BXs1svOc5s That was the first drive for the motor. Its a 3.1L motor, triple Webers, MSA 6-1 header that I cut the collector back to have a 3" outlet rather than 2.5". It was open header. Because it was the first drive on the motor, I took it easy, the one rev up was partial throttle (nothing over 4500RPM I think). I find full throttle runs with these carbs is retardedly loud, even with a muffler. This video is kind of dumb because of how cocky I was. It was my first official open header drive... One where I good thrash, since the motor is broken in and all, so I was excited. http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a333/josh817/?action=view&current=CIMG1147-1.flv In the video I had switched headers. I bought it wanting the 6-3-2 design however I'm not sure if its MSA or what. In the How To Modify Your Datsun book, they show a header that looks exactly the same with the measurements. If it is indeed a "Cyclone" header, I wouldn't know if its something rare or worthwhile. Its just what I run. I can say one thing. If you want a deeper exhaust note, you will have to sacrifice exhaust velocity, which isn't good for the system as far as an N/A motor goes. I run a 3" pipe and the exhaust note is deep, I don't like it. I know the velocity is horribly low because when you stand behind the muffler, you can barely feel the exhaust blowing on your from 1-2 feet away. At my fathers shop, we had a Mini come in that had like a 1.25" exhaust pipe. I was standing like 5 feet away and I could feel it blowing on me. It had that buzzy 4 cylinder sound to it. For PurePontiacKid: Lol I left you a comment on your video, in case if you're the dude who found the Clifford header in the junk yard...

I have a cam I want reground but I haven't been able to find any sort of form or document from a grinder.I would like to avoid a regrind only because it will require taking the base circle down, not to mention I don't know if they will be able to change the lobe centers, make it asymmetrical, change duration, etc. I want to avoid taking down the base circles due to superstition my dad has been feeding me. He does Triumph race motors and they will break camshafts if they attack the base circle. I don't know if its a problem on the Z cams however I did find one broken cam picture... Anyway. I have a cam card thing here. Basically I just took my scanned copy of a Schneider cam card, reworked the font so its more legible and I entered in my own values. Only problem is, I have the values at 1mm of lift (kind of like how we get @.050" measurements)... Will a cam grinder be able to grind something for me if I give him the at 1mm of lift measurements or does he need the raw figures? I hope they can do 1mm lift measurements otherwise I'm out of luck. Here is the cam card I made up: Central angle and lobe center is obviously not at 1mm of lift, however the duration and opening/closing points on the picture ARE at 1mm of lift. Anybody have a cam grinder in mind I could use? I prefer someone who has GOOD billets. I heard some rumor that Web Cams uses good billets possibly from Nissan, but I didn't think they made those anymore. Whatever it may be, I think I need a totally fresh cam, not a regrind. I think the picture I have, was a billet grind... And here is someone who did an obvious regrind. To me that's a big no no. Looks like a break waiting to happen, but you guys tell me because I honestly don't know the integrity of our cams. One final question! On the cam card, I have Central Angle down, does anyone know what that might mean? As you can probably guess, I didn't make up this grind, I got it from a Japanese website and had to finagle the crappy Japanese english. The only thing I can think of is maybe central angle is like... lobe center? The central angle figures I have are roughly 100-101º, if that helps any. Because these lobes are asymmetrical in design, I'm curious how one figure out where the peak of the lobe is... Essentially I'm asking once again, is the information I have on the cam card shown, enough for a grinder to do his thing, or do I need more?

Wow! It rocked itself back and forth and did that to the rock?

I wish I lived in Colorado.

Mated the 2 together today. Everything spun.... We should be happy but we're kind of frustrated that we didn't find any problem. We put the motor and tranny assembly in, as one piece. Still spins. Its a tight motor but it spins freely so I guess I will hook the rest of the stuff up tomorrow after class while we wait for the new tranny mount (the old was torn in half...), install the mount, try to start her up. The only other problem I can think of is something with the gas tank, since its been sitting for years. Hopefully all the lines are still good and the gas is use able....

Your story is very depressing. How is your baby? Probably all grown up now since I was last over there to pick up that crank! Its been a while.

Lol you guys are discussing these nice fancy camera's. I feel stupid taking pictures with my shady $100 Walmart cam. Here are some pictures from around home. I became intrigued with the sun. The pictures with snow are from when I went to Rhode Island. The mansions believe it or not are actually the dorms for college students at Salve Regina in New Port! I couldn't believe it when my mom told me she stayed in the brown mansion. That would just blow my mind. These are some old old pictures of previous trips. France: Mexico: And finally my dad looking like Hitler at my baptismal:

We have them out, tomorrow I mate them together again.

Yah on the back of the ticket it says if you're a visitor then turn in the slip and get a free parking thing as a visitor, however my sticker has the code on it. Trust me I thought about it. SuperPickle, I have a question for you about the Northeast campus. I'm taking summer classes there. I am having UTA mail my transcript to them tomorrow. How long does it take to get accepted because Calculus has 11 seats left, and I HAVE to have that class.

John you're playing parental, ruining my fun. They also charge you $20 if your sticker isn't on the lower right hand side of the windshield. If its on like the top left hand corner, or the top right hand corner./ the extra strain it has on the officer, to move his eyes up by a couple of inches, is definitely worth $20, you know? Edit: I also forgot as a side note. Don't you think its funny that in every high school and college parking rule book, they make you pay for a parking pass, but say they hold no responsibility for any damage to your property on their lot. Basically they say, pay us to park here, and have your **** stolen, because we aren't going to employ proper security forces. That's always bugged me, but the funny thing is that the head in/pull through parking scheme is used to protect other peoples cars from being side swiped. If the university holds no responsibility, then why are they making rules... responsible for protecting parked cars. Actually thats a stupid invalid point.

Alright so here is the deal. I go to school at UTA and you have a parking sticker to park in the student lots. Thats typical, no big deal. However, I didn't know they handed out tickets for this: I did a pull through parking job... however... the parking lot was completely empty when I got there, and was completely empty when I left. The whole no pull through idea is to prevent side swiping other cars. If there were no cars there, is the rule in effect? Part of me says hell no, its not because there is no obvious danger. The other part of me is reluctant because the time the ticket was recorded 11:40AM, I had already been there for 2 hours, and I was in class, obviously the officer hadn't known that because at 11:40AM, that parking lot is probably filled to the brim. Some of you may be like "Dude, a law is a law, you can't anticipate the best time to break it, thinking its ineffective" and to all those people who think that, the only thing I can do is this, because I can't really argue against it, I can only use common sense and judgment: Luckily you get one freebie and then you have to pay. Even if I did have to pay, its $20, and obviously I don't plan on parking in the wrong spot or something unless its an accident, which is kind of hard to do because things are obviously marked. I had known about the no pull through thing, I just didn't thing it would actually bite my ass if the lot was empty... I'd much rather use my freebie on something sweet like parking in the teachers lot when I'm running late or something.

Why not just raise the idle up? Turn the idle screw in more. For my setup I have all the carbs balanced onto one screw so I don't throw them out of balance when I raise the idle. I turn one idle screw, and they all adjust the same amount across the board.

I have a front bumper and a silver grill for sale if you want. Email me josh817@gmail.com

Name: Josh Barnard Age 19 1. How would you rate your high school experience (academically, not socially) on a scale of 1-10, with 1 being a piece of cake and 10 being four years of hell? **I give it a 3. Effort exerted to make A's in difficult classes, was minimal. 2. In your opinion, were the college prep/AP/honors classes at your high school harder, easier, or about the same as “regular†courses? **No, unless you took Physics C and Calculus AB/BC because it was really two courses cramped into a one course session. 3. Did your high school experience prepare you well academically for college? **Some of it did but to be honest, it barely helped, which is why I am not an A student in college. I have to fight for B's... I brought over my organization and writing skills. The one thing that bit me is that college split our friend group up. We would do work together all the time in the more difficult classes. Now in college, the only person I know is my girlfriend. I try to make friends/study groups within the class and it works but then you have to start all over again the following semester when you have new people. For a while there were about 7 of us that all had the same MAE classes at the same time but after taking calculus, only one of us passed, which separated us all in different directions. 4. Looking back, are there any specific high school classes that you now think should have been more difficult? Which one(s)? **Physics C should have been more difficult. Our teacher knew us 2 years prior to the class because he taught entry level Physics too. This meant we received a lot of special favors, and a lot of days when the A/C wouldn't vent into our room, so we took a class field trip outside to play baseball. It was our "kinematics" lesson. 5. How demanding was your senior year of high school? Very demanding? Fairly demanding? Not demanding at all? **Fairly demanding. Keeping up with Calculus was a task. Contrary to my calender utilizing skills, I am horrible at time management. I would get home and goof off until about 1AM and then I would start homework which would take longer because I was tired, and I would be up until 4AM. There was never a time where I didn't turn in my work, it was just painful to do it though. The same for Physics. Our friend group would meet up and first thing we did was raid the kitchen after school, then we would listen to music and talk or watch some Schwarzenegger movie until it was late. High school was really a testing grounds for my stamina. Because the consequences weren't severe, I had the opportunity to see what sort of sleep my body could handle. For instance, I tend to sleep in 4 hour intervals. If I had to wake up at 8, and I went to bed at 5, I knew I was going to be late. If I went to bed at 4, I would wake up on time. If I went to bed at 2, I would wake up at 10 going "what happened?" 6. If your teachers had expected more of you in high school, would you have tried harder? Definitely. Probably, Probably not. Definitely not. **Yes because A's and B's were expected of me. You did what you had to do to make those grades. 7. If you had a choice in high school, would you take the teacher with the reputation of being an easy grader (probably higher grade than you deserve, knowledge may or may not be acquired) or would you take the teacher known to be a tougher grader (definitely the grade you deserve, high level of knowledge certainly acquired)? Justify your choice. **Easier because one thing I learned is that most school want you to take their classes, unless you AP test out of them. I took Calculus 1 and 2 in high school, didn't AP test out, but I did make a B in the class. They had me take a math test, if you got the highest percentile, you got to skip all the other algebra classes and start with Calculus 1, where they teach you it from the very beginning. For a while I was on top of my game since I already knew everything. I was good at Calc. 1, horrible at Calc. 2. Then the college Calc. 1 started hitting some weird concepts that we didn't learn in high school, not because she wasn't strict, because she was, but because from what I've heard UTA teaches their Calc. courses as if you are going to be a mathematician, not an engineer. You get a lot of obscure theories and stuff that you usually wouldn't apply. It became so bizarre that out of about 110 students who enrolled, by the drop date, half the class was gone, and after the final exam, about 15 students passed. 8. Do you regret that you didn’t take your high school classwork more seriously? **No. I made my good grades without cheating or foul play. In fact I was the poor kid who never had the cheat sheet passed to him. We would either run out of time before it got to me, or I wasn't popular enough/in that group to use it, and quite frankly, I'm blind as a bat so I couldn't even see normal sized handwriting more than 3 feet from my face anyway. Honestly, if I could cheat I would. Some classes I was only being supported by my test average or by my homework average. In the end it worked out fine, but of course when I take a test and I am absolutely lost, I would freak out and want to cheat. 9. Compare your academic expectations of what college courses would be like to the reality that you’ve experienced in your first year. Much easier that I expected. A little easier. About what I expected. Somewhat more difficult than I expected. Much more difficult. Give an example. **Somewhat more difficult than I expected. I expected to stroll through like high school but after doing poorly I figured that it was due to a mix of things. No friend group to lean on if you are having a hard time. Another thing that got me big time was that during freshman orientation, they had is sign up for our classes right there. Our advisers gave us a flow chart showing what courses to take our first semester, and we applied. This is the reason why 7 of us all had the exact same schedule. The problem was that because we were told to get on and apply, then get off for the others to do it, we didn't take the time to check Ratemyprof.com or whatever. Subsequently I had some strange teachers. Another bugger was that out of my 18 or 19 hour semester, an already big load, I didn't realize over half my classes had labs to them too ranging from 1 hour to 3 hours. Class codes went like this: if the code for a class was say 2354. The 2 meant that it was a 2nd year sophomore class, the 3 was the credit hour (I perceived this to be 3 hours per week for this class), and the last 2 numbers are just to denote whether its history or whatever. My physics class was 14xx, 4 hours per week. We spent 4 hours in lecture, but another 4 in the lab. It bit me hard. The last thing that killed me and still does is how I study. I studied more this semester than last semester, but I guess I don't know how to study properly because I studied all day for a Macro Economics test, and I barely made a C. I don't udnerstand. Oh and by the way, I'm on academic probation right now because I failed Calculus. They take your overall GPA, then just your science + math GPA, then all your other classes like history + english + economics GPA. If any of these 3 GPA's falls below I think a 2.0 then you are on probation which means you can only take up to 14 hours next semester, and you must take a mandatory 1 hour course which teaches your how you best learn. As I said about studying previously, this problem makes me very worried. I'm constantly scared I won't do well in school. I already failed Calculus. Luckily we are permitted 3 grade exclusions which means the course will be excluded from your GPA however it will still be on your transcript. even with that insurance though... I only took 14 hours this semester, none of the classes had labs, and I'm on the verge of biting the dust in 2 of the 5 classes... This means in 2 or 3 weeks when finals come around, I have to do well. Part of me says "well I just have to make a C or higher to be ok, thats not too bad" but then I think about how I studied vigorously for Econ and History yet I didn't even make a B. Its discouraging. Typically in high school, that first test is horrible, however district policy said anything lower than a 70 on a test, we can make up, and score a 70 at best. This was a trial ground to see what the teacher wanted from you, how they graded, etc. In college, you ahve maybe 3 or 4 tests, if you're lucky you will have a quiz and homework average to do well in to support you if you make a bad test grade. The high school plan doesn't work anymore. You have to do well right out of the gate, but I don't understand how that can be achieved all the time when teachers will have certain expectations. The only thing that even comforts me is what my buddy told me. He said his dad had told him "In college, you will have an occasional failure whether it be a screw up on your part, a hard test, or the teacher just screws you over", doesn't sound helpful at all, but then he told me about his big brothers buddies who didn't do too swell freshman year, but graduated with over a 3.0, and they didn't have the grade exclusion like I did. They had to balls up and take the failing grade. So what I keep telling myself is that these little shmoo courses that I have to take now will soon be over and then I can work on my degree stuff where the Professor actually knows my name and will walk me through any difficulties. /end rant. As you can see, I'm very worried, we'll see how it goes. Hope this helps.

I have one also. Email me Josh817@gmail.com

No they aren't causing the problem but they haven't been used in who knows how many years, maybe 10 or so. I'm working technically for my dad as an employee at his shop (the only employee). He uses me because he can't really trust anyone else to do the job, except some of his adult buddies but they ask for a higher pay than he even charges! He charges $45/hr + parts. He pays me $15/hr. For all the dudes who aren't looking for a picture perfect show car and are on a budget, he has me do the work. When its all done, he checks over it to make sure its how he would have done it, and its good to go. Generally, ground up restorations, he will do while I do the quick jobs. For instance when a customer came in with this junk Spitfire race car but it had good GT6 suspension. He bought another Spitfire with a good body and good motor but stock suspension. It was my job to swap the two out so he could sell the crappy car and use the good one. Only problem is that this guy is so cheap that he moans at my $15/hr and tried to talk me down to like $8/hr because I wasn't even 18 years old at the time. Dad had to remind him that its a mans work with a mans pay. Anyway. Point is, since the car is being built under his wing, his shop, its just my project since I'm the Datsun dude in a British auto shop. Any parts we need he buys at either a discounted shop rate or a regular rate which he marks up like 5% or whatever it usually is. This is where it gets all complicated and nasty because he is hurting from dishing out $3000 in parts and not getting the car out fast enough (which explains why there is barely any food at home) and I'm pissed because he won't just tell the customer he needs another payment. We received an initial starting payment of $1000, and the rest is paid when the car leaves. Edit: Got off the phone with a Datsun dude and he had a list of things to check. Everything was sorted out, except for the clutch assembly. He's thinking our pressure plate is sticking out and hitting the bell housing because apparently we DO have the thick plate (4mm thick). Like I said, I don't care what it is, as long as we have a solution.