josh817

Would have if it was centered...

Great... Ran into the bathroom to grab the cutters my sister bought for me as a graduation present so I don't have to pay the barber $15 to shave my head. They come with all sort of different heads and one is meant for I guess head hair. Has a 3 piece guard set (3/8", 1/4", 1/8"), I typically use 3/8". So just a week ago I used it and I wanted to see how much hair has grown since then. I was really excited so I ran in and grab the cutters, took one swipe... Guys... Check to make sure you have the right guard on... /sigh

Oh, how did I know Challenger would post something like that...

Mopar Gringo eh.... Don't make me pull out a whip so you'll be on time. Actually, I'm only at the primer over the body work section, but once thats done and I sand with 400 grit then its off for sealer, base coat, and clear! I'm scared Dad may beat me silly if I don't have mine done and put back together by Saturday. >_>

I hope it doesn't rain and I hope my poor baby is put back together along with Big-Phils! I'm just now spraying primer over my bodywork! I may have to hit up Jerry, I think I have some old broken hardware and ****. PLUS I just sold my old 6-1 headers with 6-3-2's to go on, but at this pace, I may have to look forward to an open header driver. >_< All Z Cars is a good place, when I say Jerry, he's the owner of the shop/yard. He has just about everything, I use him for a lot of obscure things since all the popular stuff will show up on here and on ebay pretty cheap. For instance, the throw out bearing fork in the T5 tranny has a large clip to hold it in place and mine was broken so I was freaking out not knowing what the hell to ask for or where to look. He had one for $5 and my day wasn't so bad after all. :]

Can't really make up my mind. Same guy owns these two: However, my first love was seeing and hearing an Austin Healey 3000 racing, particularly this one: Videos of track days: http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a333/josh817/?action=view&current=1-1.flv http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a333/josh817/?action=view&current=2-1.flv http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a333/josh817/?action=view&current=3-1.flv http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a333/josh817/?action=view&current=4-1.flv http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a333/josh817/?action=view&current=5-1.flv http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a333/josh817/?action=view&current=6-1.flv http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a333/josh817/?action=view&current=7.flv :]

Not offending, more like annoying in my case.

Ebay has some cheap under $100 ones, but they're hard plastic. If you don't mind that then go for it.

Yah I've seen that done on some transaxles for mid engine race cars.

Seems like a pain in the ass to do that when you have a pulley right there just shouting out. Then what happens when you come to a stop? Idle off the battery?

Nothing wrong with using a belt drive unless you really want that horsepower right? Actually, I wonder if it even helps. The water pump puts just another load on the alternator, which puts a load back onto the motor so... yah know?

The shop itself is in Dalworthington Gardens, so still be careful. To give an example, I was out late (12-1am) sanding my hood in the parking lot so dust wouldn't get on the cars and I had 3 police officers stop in the parking lot and ask what I was up to. Atleast its safe though!

Well played good sir. However, I still stand steady with my opinion that the extra tenth of a liter isn't really needed. If it truly is a no budget build working with an L engine and turbos, his power goals are achievable. With no budget, you can go upgrade to some nice fancy turbos, have lots of head work, screw the MS3 and run something really nice, I mean everything. I was wrong with some stuff and thats all fine and dandy but I mean honestly, what do you want us to respond to something like this? I'm getting all warm and fuzzy inside because of a indecisive questionnaire with no sort of direction to follow because with only a power goal, which is also subjective without a clear number, then well... you can do just about anything you want. You can go to a Japanese shop thats crazy over these L engines and have them build and ship it to you, thats whats possible with no budget. If you feel like learning some stuff about the motor and building it yourself then you can still call up a shop and ask for the best of the best parts. The legitimate question was what suspension and drive train can handle lots of power, and even that has been answered in their proper sections of the board. Its time for me to take a potty break. Relieves the tension in my nerves and other areas which remain unmentionable. Whose Z was doing like 600hp on the dyno with the single turbo? It was a white z, the dyno video is on youtube and its on the type of dyno thats raised up, had a wastegate that would sound like a gunshot. Don't want to make any calls on the displacement, but it was 600hp. Also: I need to figure out how sleeves really work because I get so many answers from different people. You've told me about the welding thing before but I get confused with that, then some say you press them in, then we have a TR3 motor in the shop and the only thing that keeps those sleeves in would be the head. When the head comes off you either pull the sleeves or put something on the head studs to hold them in because they come out easily. Well, easy enough to fall out. Save that for somewhere else though.

Anyone coming out this Saturday, if you are taking the Rosedale exit from 820 FOLLOW THE SPEED LIMIT AND DON'T DRIVE LIKE AN IDIOT WHEN YOU GET ONTO ROSEDALE. There are 2 tiny cities that fall on that road and because they are tiny, they write lots of tickets. So be safe, make sure you have all your insurance and driving info, and make sure everything is registered because they WILL fall in behind YOU and run your plates if they see you. Dalworthington Gardens and Pantego are the cities by the way. They're literally 2 square miles I think.

I'm a cash only sort of guy. And paypal I guess... Don't spend unless you have it in full. After building my motor, being in debt to your momma in highschool, not coooooool bro. Lesson learned.

Well yes I totally agree with you but as we are coming to say on here, whats your beef, chief? As per OP, it says F54 so thats where that is from and since I agree with you my only other "beef" would be that some people don't have the time, money, patience, whatever, to figure out which crazy idea is legit and which is not. Like you said, unless you read Japanese (and if you computer even supports that font ) then you're going to have to find some other means to figure out what they are up to. Of course, I did my build for a street motor, didn't have much money, and definitely didn't want to learn any lessons. However, since this thread is in the budgetless dream phase, we can tickle each others imaginations with very expensive ideas all day BUT whats stopping me from saying "Sure, what the hell, go out there and try it" is that he said he doesn't want to be pulling/rebuilding/fixing broken parts whether its motor, suspension, or drive train. Thats my beef with this right now.

Mmm I just don't feel that 90mm or more on an F54 block is a bright idea. Only saying that from stuff I've read saying the block will flex and other silly things. Along with "3mm cylinder wall thickness is safe" sort of rule. Do whatever you want, I've been wanting to over bore the block and then wet liner it.

Eh I think you need more reading unless your plan was to spend lots of money and increase stroke to go from 3.1L to 3.2, although I doubt that works because of deck height. The proper way is to bore another 1mm out so the over bore is 4mm total for a 90mm cylinder. For rigidity purposes and how you plan on doing forced induction, I don't think the F54 block is your best choice. Generally speaking, unless you do it right and baby the motor so nothing is abused, 3.2 IS an ambiguous thought because that is the limit for the block. Technically, you aren't even a full 3200cc its like 3168cc around there, compared to the 3.1L which is 3098cc. So, is the block integrity worth 70cc more? To me, no. The only thing that bothered me about mine was that 3.1 doesn't sound nice compared to 3.2 which is an even number.

I've always wondered that. Our CVAR race club is diehard on authentic cars and the one competitive Z still gets raped by the porsches for various reasons, one being they have a 5 speed. He's stuck using the stock 4 speed because they say you need a Nissan Competition gearbox if you want to run a 5 speed (because thats the "only" thing they ran during that period). So I always thought get a 5 speed from something older, say a 1969 Roadster 2000, this way you aren't running equipment which wasn't around during the Z racing period. I'm curious if that would pass tech. Also, a stock bellhousing should bolt onto a Roadster 5 speed, then bolt onto an L-Engine I THINK. They did that for 510's. I don't think they're strong enough though but if you say so then I guess I'm wrong.

Ceramic coat for the win! Its like a condom for heat! And only like $12 per piston. Usually dudes who can ceramic coat them can also do Teflon coating so thats worth looking into for bearings and piston skirts. If you want to get real nutso then you can ceramic coat everything which is subjected to the heat of combustion so your combustion chambers, exhaust ports. turbo housings and downpipe, intake manifold. All sorts of crazy for a theoretically bottomless wallet!

Personally speaking, I don't think you need any of the fancy stuff a lot of dudes run on here. The rods are stout in these motors but the rod bolts are not, pistons should be forged but nothing crazy, and use ARP hardware. You can port the head later if you don't have the money. ^ Scratch all of that though since you're not on a budget. 350hp and up will chew up the BW 5 speed so thats a no no. r200, yes, its strong enough. Axles are worth looking into. Big-Phil had a twin turbo manifold in one of his videos so who knows on that. However, if I'm to be critical, this almost seems like another one of those what if threads from new posters coming to visit and stir up some imagination. Then again, you are from Australia, who knows what you guys will do next with these cars. Australians are habitual Z-car rapists by nature.

Some info on the "rally head"? Found in the Classic Z car photos... Its like single cam crossflow? All the books I've read have the OS as the only crossflow.

Don't tease me with those. I've been wanting to go from 40's to 44's or 45's, along with a nice set of jets. :[ The things you do to me...

Hm so that little square/box you put right in the middle is because of too much cable or to lengthen the cable to reach the calipers? Perhaps I should just use a hiem joint so you can screw it in and out to adjust the length. Just need proper threads. Hopefully I can pull the bleed nipples off my old front 240 calipers and put them on these rear brakes (hopefully they will thread in and fit), unless the rebuild kit comes with more. Mine don't even look like a they have the hex around them to fit a wrench on!

The "Revenge Verde" they're making looks an awful lot like hmmmm... say, a Factory Five GTM. All the news reports on the motor brag about 400hp, which is a lot in my mind, but thats at the flywheel so I'm not really wowing so much other than the fuel efficiency.