josh817

Megatherion, can you post more of those pictures? I'm trying to figure out what exactly I have so I can order some rebuild kits. I think its safe to say its the same as yours but I would still like to see more pictures of the brake cable thing you did. Send it in a PM if you want. Thanks.

You're fine. I had the same thing. Wearing flip flops, walking out of school and stubbed my little toe on a portable volleyball post. Healed up with a bump but its fine now. This is my big toe: I had discomfort for a while and noticed it had formed a decent blister. I popped it and as I was just getting the remains out the fluid went from clear to white so I was like .... ; It had formed a substantial lump, went to the doctor thinking it was an ingrown toenail even though I trim them. 5 minutes of waiting and all the doctor says "No its not an ingrown nail its an infection, take these pills" That 5 minute apointment cost $30 and the pills were like $7 for 2 weeks worth. I don't know about you, but some cheap $7 pills aren't going to fix anything. I was either going to heal by myself or not at all. I cleaned out the wound 3 times a day, took my pills, guess what its still there with a weird lump. Hah, now I'm going back and I'm going to ask for something to be done right there. Infection my ass... its been 2 months and its still there. Fine to walk on but if you stub it or someone steps on it you wish you were dead.

Ehhh... You have to take the whole front cover off I would think. Its been too long for me to remember but all the other motors I've done the front seal goes in from behind. My motor is fairly young though, not even 5000 miles, and I'm using the same damper so everything SHOULD work out fine.

Oh hey can we have pictures of your disgusting toe? I'll post pictures of mine if you post pictures of yours. Haha. No but really, I'm curious. >_>

How about any leaks? I have to pull out mine to install a trigger wheel and I'm scared the front seal in the front cover will leak since it seals with the pulley sleeve.

PS: The open house starts at 9 AM and the breakfast is being provided over at the shop. Dad invites any scary Z cars such as BigPhils and Chris's so we can wag our tails at the Triumph guys. He told me he expects to see my car FINALLY painted and put back together by then too. Schools out tomorrow for summer, its time to get back on that horse damnit.

Ah wait! I think I got names mixed up! Rick is our engine block guy, Eric is the machinist. I'm going to be sending him my pully to weld on a trigger wheel I do believe.

Is the guys name Mike? This dude was Mike and he's real good with everything IF you have time to spare. My 6-1 header was $185 for the coating and polish and this one was $195 so its good, because I wasn't dependent on it. Edit: Scratch that, its easier to say that the dude we use is in Arlington, right off of Collins I believe kinda near UTA. The machinist was use is Rick and that company sounds familiar. I forget the name of the guy who cleans and bores our blocks but he doesn't do coatings anyway.

You don't even need to show up with your car, its just preferred to put the British cars back in their place. Some of the TR6 guys are running triple Strombergs and think they're hot ****. XD

Dad and I are having an open house at his shop on June 13th. Anyone is invited, bring your cars, etc. Basically it will be a breakfast get together at the shop, check out the cool cars, that sort of thing. You may be overwhelmed with British cars so if you hate them, be prepared. The shop location is: 2136 Corzine Dalworthington Gardens, Texas 76013 Corzine connects Pioneer and Arkansas together and sits behind a Walmart I do believe. The entire road is lined with shops so once you get onto it go slow and look for a blue Z and some British cars. I'll get a time of day soon. PS: I need to brag to someone. I waited 5 months for this thing to be complete. I'm sorry if I'm being a butthole but seriously dudes, if you own a ceramic coating shop and you have work backed up for half a year, hire some more people or work faster. Luckily I wasn't dependent on these headers so I could still drive while he took his dearest time. At least they look sexy, minus the nasty cutoff ends and the air injection.

They will be expensive for a good one. Might as well buy new and avoid future split dampeners.

Did I find that really funny that someone would try to make them look real big. Almost as bad as the guys that speed up a video to the point where its hilariously obvious. XD Or maybe I just have the wrong impression. Probably do.

Lets see if I can get photobucket to work on here. Typical Camaro was there along with the 240z. Saw two 510's but I don't know if they're new to the club or what. The yellow one (don't know if its in any of the videos) lost oil pressure at the end of the day. Neither of them were fast, they were like last place in all the races so I'm like dudes whats going on. Anyways here you go. Oh did I mention it was pouring ass rain on Saturday? Luckily I brought extra shirts, socks, boxers. Not pants... /fail Everything you see is 1972 or older per CVAR rules. Group 7 with the Z, BMW, and 510's is more like Porsche Club.. Yah know? Haha In the videos I focus more so on the Z in the BMW's since their the types of cars I own I do suppose.

>_> Just curious. The Triumph motors have sleeves which don't even press in. The head holds them in so when you take the head off, the slide right out. Wet sleeves that is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6q9nBusrq8 That smell?

Yah I got my EDIS system off ebay for like $90 or something and then Megajolt with rev limiter for $80-something.

I know the triumph motors we rebuild come with liners and you can't find them anymore from triumph or moss so when we do crazy stuff or when they need replacing we find ourselves taking a trip to a tractor shop. >_> Then again those motors are tractor engines but I mean, its a source of liners yah? I don't see why you wouldn't use an F54 block, bore it out until you hit water and then sleeve it. With a shop discount, I may snab a junk yard block and do that! They say 3mm thickness of material is the limit to being safe on the cylinders so if you bore that thing out and get real nutso, use the F54 block to avoid height and conversion issues. My you have a sexy combination.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41966 Works like a charm.

Just got home from school, waiting for Mom to get home so I can take the car to the Dad's shop.

Face palm just isn't suitable for this anymore.

Why ask why? I would have expected this thing to be closed by now. >_>

Well. If it were my pick, I would just say screw it get me some 225's I'm real cheap.

Score! Pick your poison, men. By the way, turn safe search on if you decide to Google Image "shank". For some mysterious reason, mine was turned off. Way off. Like Defcon III get ready for a torrent of crazy **** off. Yah...