blue72

Who'da thought it would be so hard to find a picture of Jesse's creation. Here's the one I was talking about from Monster Garage.

Wait, didn't Jesse James and his crew make something almost exactly like this for their Monster Garage show?

Tengo que iniciar una nueva sesión? Mierda.

78 rpm vs. takeoff thrust.

Must aquire. Then I'll just build my own miniature New Drug Circuit! Wonder who makes that particular one and how long before the tires wear too much under full drift.

The oil in the carb tops was originally 20 weight, but many people run thinner ATF as well. Different weights of oil will change the speed at which the piston inside rises and falls. You don't need very much oil, but make sure they're filled to the same level on each one. I just fill the cap on the oil bottle and dump that in. Google Hitachi SU carbs if you want to learn more about how they operate. You might not have to worry about the carbs being synched seeing as that was done not too many miles ago, but it might be a good idea to buy a synching tool for the future. I'd check for cracked and rotted hoses all over. Check both of the radiator hoses, heater hoses, fuel lines and vacuum lines just in case. Make sure you've got coolant in the radiator, and it might be a good idea to drain and refill depending on the age of the coolant and radiator. It is doubtful that anyone bothered to drain the carb floats before storage, so there might still be varnish left over from the old gas inside the lines or carburettors. You might search the forums here for discussions on Marvel Mystery Oil and Seafoam products being used to help free up/degum motors that have been abandoned for a while. Oh, and one thing I have seen crop up, including on my '72 which hadn't run in years when I bought it, is the fuel pump. The diaphram in the mechanical pump wears out or cracks after a while and you won't be getting fuel to the carbs. Make sure you've got a good battery with charge and check operation of all the electric items like lights, horn, fan motor and wipers. Check the fuse box in the center console for blown fuses. Another handy book to have around would be the "How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car" Lots of good info on rebuilding/refinishing various peices and parts. Good luck.

I have actually thought long and hard, done quite a bit of research and plotted out a whole cost analysis to put one of these motors into a 510. I currently have at my disposal two 2.2l Ecotec motors, both with spun bearings. The only problem that I kept coming across was the price. No matter how I configured it, N/A or forced induction, compared to swapping in something more common like a SR20DET it always came out much more expensive. Sure, the height isn't of much concern, mounts can be fabbed, the Solstice RWD or Canyon/Colorado (Aisin AR-5) trans can be used, etc..., but after factoring in everything it was almost twice as expensive vs. a more readily supported platform. A turbo setup would be great, but you'd basically have to piece together your own kit and buy/modify the electronics (hptuners, megasquirt, etc) to run it. Put all that on top of the budget for mounts, trans, driveshaft and everything else and your looking at 5-6k easily. The other way to go would be N/A, and there are plenty of parts available, but again costs escalate rapidly before you begin approaching reasonably comparable power levels. I just couldn't justify that kind of expense when an SR20 w/ trans is 1800-2k and McKinney Motorsports already fabs mounts and crossmembers. This is a good read to get you started: http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=318797&t=318797 Here's a link to a build thread for an Ecotec powered RWD Rock Buggy with a Powerglide trans. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325150 Rhys Millen had an Ecotec mated to a T-56 in his Solstice GXP drift car. http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Features/articleId=124174 Oh, and BTW, the stock bottom end is good for quite a bit of horsepower. Try and find the article online that has GM's proprietary test results when they were first breaking this motor to find weak points.

See the bracket on the passenger side shock tower inside the engine bay? A medium-large plastic vacuum tank was mounted there which intruded into the space usually occupied by the inspection light. You'll notice that there aren't even mounting holes for the lamp on the passenger side. Because of the vacuum tank the inspection light was moved to the driver's side of the engine bay and given a nice flat, oval ended place to mount on. The other bracket located where a fuel filter would be on a 240Z is the mounting bracket for the charcoal canister. The 260Z had both mechanical and electric fuel pumps, so the one filter in the system is located close to the tank to benefit the electric pump. I just discovered the "not providing enough light" thing this week when snaking about with that light under the hood in pitch black:icon50:. Better than nothing though.

For most guys longnose R200 + LSD = plenty. Read through the whole Diff sticky in the Drivetrain section, and search for one of our members here using an R200 and performing wheelstands at the strip. There are even a few threads here that have dealt with suspension and rear end setups for hypothetical and real 240Z based drift cars, just as long as you search well enough. Not to get too off topic, but ARZ, is that your car pictured under your member name? I've had pics of it on my computer for a while and couldn't remember where I'd found them (love the stance/wheel and tire combo).

Perhaps 240Z!!! doesn't realize that this is a 260Z, not a 240. Good work so far. You're getting ever so much closer to having it running again.

Many people don't realize that a good number of the major insurance providers have collector automobile insurance programs of their own. You would of course have to call around and find out about their individual terms and limits. I have Hagerty now and only pay $130 a year for 4k agreed value coverage on my Z. I did have to first make sure that my primary use vehicle was insured through another company and supply proof to them. One of the great thing about them is the less lax age limit, and no stated yearly mileage limit. You just have to make sure you keep it in a locked garage when not in use and not use it for daily driver duty (hence the proof of a primary use vehicle).

I've still got the box for my L6 ARP head studs around somewhere if you can't find the specs on the paper, or if no one else chimes in here.

Based on my experiences, I don't believe that any of the head bolts on the L6 enter water passages. I searched our forums, and that is the general consensus here as well. I wouldn't torque the ARP hardware any further than recommended either. There are also discussions on this forum and other places on the net that talk about yeild and stresses put on threads.

Wow, if he was looking for a 4 seater that is light enough for a good power to weight ratio with a bike engine that slims the choices considerably. I was going to mention the Honda 600, Fiat X1/9, or a 50's-60's light fiberglass job like the Berkley, but they don't seem to fit his criteria. Perhaps a Fiat Millicento like the one Jay Leno featured a while back at his website. He could also try tracking down a Toyopet ST-10 Corona. Maybe try like another member on this board and build a Triumph 10 I've got a Civic CVCC at my disposal that I'd be willing to part with as well.

You can use the L24 dizzy, no problems there. You still haven't told us if the starter now turns the motor over. When you turn the key do you only hear a click, and the starter does not turn at all? If that's the case then perhaps it has a problem with the starter itself, the starter solenoid could be frozen, or some other oddball problem involving the starter and ring gear together.

He might be referring to the sticky in the L6 section called "Improved L6 Valve Stem Seals". In there the discussion covers the use of Felpro Viton seals meant for a Ford application and the very particular installation methods needed for their use.

The Datsun 240Z is so old that insurers don't care (or know) that it's a sports car. I insured mine through GEICO for a few months last year and the insurance payment was exactly the same through them as it was for my '92 Jeep Cherokee. One other insurance pricing factor that hasn't been named yet is geographic location. Depending on where you live, your quoted price will be different. My insurance is much cheaper here in Southern Utah compared to when I lived in Phoenix. That, combined with the other variables already mentioned here will make it impossible for any of us to give you a ballpark figure for your insurance price. The last time I was shopping for insurance for my Z, I couldn't qualify for specialty vehicle insurance, so I simply called all of the major insurance companies for quotes. Make sure you have your info handy including social security number and all. I had quotes ranging from $1,100 every 6 months (more than I paid for the car) to $314 every six months, all for liability only coverage. Guess which one I went for.

So does the engine turn over but the vehicle won't start? Does the engine turn over at all? If it does turn over, do you have spark to the spark plugs? Are you using the SU carbs or fuel injection? Give us some more info please.

Nope, I'm still here and saving pictures of your gaskets to my hard drive for future reference. I'm interested in seeing a final video of it running here in a few days. That is, as long as everything else goes according to plan.

I've been following this build for the last 2 or 3 years. He is one of only a handful of people crazy enough to chop the top on an S30. The LS7 doesn't hurt either.

The part where the ignition switch connects to? I assume you're referring to a wire that connects to the ignition switch. If you look on the back of the ignition switch you should be able to see what the shape of the original connector was. As long as only one connector is missing that is. There should be a few wires leading into that switch. One of the wiring diagrams I happen to have on my computer is for a '75 280Z and shows five wires leading into the ignition switch. If you've downloaded a Factory Service Manual or followed a wiring diagram you should be able to tell which wires were cut based on routing and wire color. If you can tell us which wires they are that might help. I'm afraid I can't be of much use beyond that because all I have pictures of are combination switches.

Why are all the cats in the neighborhood now yellow and orange?

Yep, you can run a TH700-R4 (from a 60 degree V-6 powered S-10 or Camaro) behind them. Sounds like a special 'pocket' needs to be welded in for the starter. http://www.chrfab.com/Transmissions.htm Other internet rumors tell me that you can also use a '96-02 Dakota bellhousing to adapt it to a Supra R154 5-speed. http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71020 The XLR, SRX and post 2005 STS are also FR layouts with Northstar engines.

Just spotted a white 280Z with a wing on the rearend while watching an enthralling show, Speeders. Just a quick clip of the car after it was pulled over then the program went on to another traffic stop. Nothing better to watch I guess.

As much as I love my Z, I would happily let it languish in exchange for a redhead. Like the others have said though, talking it out and finding a balance would likely be best.