blue72

It'd be great to have more info like what, if any, other mods were made between pulls, which carb they used and how many p.s.i. they are running. Apparently this project isn't listed on their website. Good video though.

This is the show that taught me how a dog actually drinks water, and its not what you'd expect.

Probably age and general wear and tear. Is it a new water pump, what engine do you have? It's usually not an especially difficult or expensive thing to replace, and they all wear out eventually.

I don't think that's one they'd usually have just hanging around the Snap-On truck.

Brings up an interesting point, if you've got flames on your car then why not have smoke and melty bits too?

Yeah, when you get around to driving it a bit go park it in a grocery store parking lot or something similar. You'd be amazed how tiny the car looks next to something newer like a Pontiac G6 which will seem huge in comparison.

The specs I've found in the past for the 240Z state 162.8 inch total length and 64.1 inch width.

All I could find through a quick search of my hard drive was a Nissan brochure for the 240Z which states its standing start quarter mile time as 15.8 seconds.

In all of the GTR forum trolling that I have done, I have only seen one confirmed transmission failure with pictures. The only other one that comes close is the guy from Florida mentioned earlier in this thread who launched his GTR too many times with the VDC off. That's it, everything else that I have seen has been hearsay and speculation. I'd be willing to bet that this ad is just a joke, or a scam.

Wow, nice pictures. I think mine is going to look a lot like yours some day, except blue instead of orange and CF instead of flat black.

Anyone who has seen the movie The Mummy knows that crickets/locusts have the ability to strip the flesh from a man in a matter of seconds. Common Hollywood knowledge.

I just read through my posts again, and I guess you could read them either way. I always knew it was a 240Z with that silly front lip conversion, not the other way around. Well, now that I've thrown this thread completely off topic, maybe I should watch the other episodes of the show.

I just got back from spending this weekend at the ATRA convention in Vegas and I got to see some SEMA cars roaming around. I saw an FJ Cruiser pickup, plenty of exotics, the tornado chaser truck from The Discovery Channel, setup crews from Skyjacker and Mother's Polish, etc... I even saw an R8 from a distance (for some reason I hadn't seen one in person before now). Wish I was going this next weekend, but at least I got a little preview. One other interesting thing I spotted was a white 240Z driving down the strip. It looked pretty stock except for the dual sunroof and the bearded guy driving it.

I hadn't seen this one before, but there is a product called Free-Eze from Lubegard that is marketed as "rusted cylinder treatment" that "frees up rusted/frozen cylinders". Thought you might look into that. I saw the bottle at the Lubegard booth at a convention this weekend. BTW, the ground wire is usually routed from the battery down to one of the starter to block bolts.

When I called around about having my radiator flushed and rodded, it turned out to be cheaper to just buy a new one. Sometimes it just works out that way.

Also of note, no 240, 260 or 280Z came with a sunroof from the factory. Aftermarket sunroofs aren't exactly known for good sealing abilities. That coupled with the 30+ year old weatherstripping on the car would have me looking at the floorpans to make sure the old carpet wasn't keeping moisture bottled up eating away at them. Also, the 26k on the odometer could be 26,000 or 126,000. This was before million mile odometers.

My instructions tell me to chamfer the end of the tube as well. I left it out because I haven't found it to be completely necessary. The piece of tubing I demonstrated with wasn't a completely square cut, and I passed over the end quickly with a wire wheel, nothing special at all. If you look at the pictures for mine you can see that the adapter had a taper around the base off the stem, and that the stem doesn't fit snugly in the tube (very loose actually). The pointy end of the yoke helps center the adapter in the tube while you tighten it. Oh, and like Dave mentioned, my instructions say a little brake fluid will help lubricate if need be.

Oh yeah, it's a 240, got the right bumpers and taillights. I hope it shows up in some other episode.

Double flare right? Okay, for anyone interested here are the steps: 1. Of course, cut the tube, and make it straight. Get rid of any burrs on the inside (I use a small circular file). 2. Put the tube you're working with in the correct sized hole on the flaring bar. Take the appropriate sized adapter and place it flat side down on the bar next to the end of the tube. The end of the tube should usually stick out to the first "step" in the adapter. Next, tighten the side nearest the tube first, then make sure the other end is really tight. The little teeth in the hole are what grip the tube and prevent it from slipping. Here are the tube end and adapter side by side, and me tightening the clamps on the bar with a screwdriver for leverage. 3. Place the stem of the adapter in the tube, and put the yoke assembly in the center of the adapter. Tighten that baby down until it squishes the end of the tube against the bar. 4. Remove the yoke and adapter. Put the yoke back on without the adapter, and tighten all the way down again making the tube end form a bell shape, a 45 degree flare. Don't go too crazy with the tightening or you might split your new flare. Loosen up the yoke again. Ta-da! you've made an honest to goodness double flare. Now you can make all of your friends jealous. I think the real trick is getting the wingnuts on the bar nice and tight. If not then the tube will slip. Old worn out flaring bars do the same thing.

No, I think it's a 280Z front lip retrofitted with 240Z turn signals. See how the turn signals are crooked, and lower than they should be? Also, the bottom, where the corners and the splash pan bit meet should be square. Seems like a silly modification to make.

I don't see it being a big problem placing just the engine in the bay bolted to the mounts, just as long as you supported the back of it. A good jackstand or two would probably do the trick. I wouldn't just leave it hanging there without any support. I think it would put a little too much stress on the mounts themselves.

Isn't that a 280Z front lip? I also like how the car was able to produce both V8 and I6 noises.

Yes, I have seen it. Yes, it is ugly as sin.

Have you tried courtesyparts.com (Courtesy Nissan)?

I saw that car in person at Barrett Jackson last year. Kinda odd seeing that six speed shifter in an old B210.