blue72

Have you verified the timing and checked that the spark plugs are installed in the right firing order? You never know.

I had it "suggested" to me by a highway patrol officer that I put my rear bumper back on, but I doubt anyone would know if you shaved the mounting points. I'm personally partial to the smoothed one piece bumper, but the re-chroming is a little pricey from what I've read here.

Just be aware that different types of grease all have varied properties. I have one of those little black books at home that shows how much to vary the torque applied to a fastener based on which grease/oil/lube you use on the threads.

I could only find one decent picture online of the carbs, and it doesn't help much. Here, this page at least describes most of the differences between the Flat Tops and the earlier Round Top SU's. http://www.zparts.com/zptech/tech_tips/izccposts/su_differences.htm Better yet, go over to autozone.com and look at the repair guide for your car. It has a section (fuel system - carburetted fuel system 70-78) which is pretty comprehensive for 70-74 SU's. It shows carb components, how to adjust the float on your carbs, how to set fast idle, and how to get at the float chamber itself on your Flat Top carbs. They even sell replacement floats if need be. You could even try downloading the FSM from xenons30.com too. It shows cutaway views of the carbs, which seven screw to remove to access the float on the bottom, how to check the power valve and a troubleshooting table. The Fuel System section also shows which vacuum hoses go where, how to check each component, like the idle compensator, and it even has sections dealing with the mechanical and electric fuel pumps which may answer the questions you had earlier this week about them.

I was fearing something worse reading the thread title then "accident" while waiting for the picture to load. I was thinking it would be like an accident I saw in Pheonix where a guy in a Taurus tried to make a right hand turn at the same time the semi beside him was. The trailer quickly turned his hardtop into a convertible. I'm personally not at all familiar with NY junk yards, but over here I've personally seen dozens of 240SX's in Pic-n-Pull yards. I don't think it'd be too tough to scrounge up some decent sheet metal and plastic, but then again, I'm not there.

Zee trar Boss, zee trar!

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141184 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139525 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=140304 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=140375 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130254 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128677 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124524

Jealousy, I have it all the way from the west coast. Incredible find. Add me to the list of people who want more pics, and BSR info.

The interior vinyl isn't bad pricewise, but paying someone to do metal work is. That orange one looks much better from the outside, but if the bottom is rusted through you might be in for a long haul project.

Sorry, I got the make mixed up. The one my dad owns is a Max, not an Argo. It's probably a late nineties model, and as I was maneuvering it toward it's spot in the driveway the heated throttle cable snapped and jammed in its sheath leaving it at WOT with me playing avoid the obstacles. The cable had rotted because the 6x6 occasionally gets left outside. Since the throttle lever is mounted to the steering bars, rain water pools up inside the cable's housing. Just a heads up in case yours is of a similar design.

Wow, reminds me of Mull's car for some reason.

Came across an interesting amalgamation while looking over JNC's coverage of the SEMA show. It's a '32 Ford Highboy powered by a VG30. It was built by a Nissan employee, Jack Taylor using the drivetrain from a 300ZX. IRS and all. Here's a link to the pictures over on JCN's website: http://www.japanesenostalgiccar.com/picture.cgi?section=events&article=sema2008&picnum=53 Another small article on the car: http://www.leftlanenews.com/nissan-shows-sema-customs.html

Finally dropped below $2 a gal. in Southern Utah. I saw $1.83 for regular today.

Nice to see that you went ahead and purchased it. Great find. Just be aware that the mechanical fuel pumps they sell for these cars at your corner auto parts stores are usually the non-rebuildable type. Since you'll eventually be doin' the LT1 swap then you probably won't care though. Oh, and if you're wondering about the paint then there is a sticker on the radiator support that shows the paint code. When you have that go to http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html and cross reference.

Oooohhh, HDR S30 shell. Very nice.

Usually one of the first adjustments done to the carbs is to synchronize the airflow on both front and back to the same reading. There are a couple of styles of tools for that job. MSA and a few other stores have them in stock. There are quite a few sites on the net that explain how SU carbs work and how to adjust them. A few books too. You might be able to beat him down a bit on the price using the rusted through floor as your leverage point. Unless you are familiar with welding and basic metal work (and have access to the equipment) then you'll be paying someone to patch or repair that floorboard in the future. If you can get the price lowered then you'll have some leftover money for the thing's that'll need replacing right away. Good rule of thumb is to take the budget you have in mind and then double it. It may or may not need other tune-up bits and pieces to get it running reliably and you'd be surprised how fast the little things add up. Then there's insurance, registration, etc... It looks like a good base, as long as there isn't too much other hidden rust. At least you've already got the L28 and round top SU's in your favor too. Just a few custom touches that not everyone would like. Keep us updated if you do buy it.

I'd go with a new door too, those curves at the top are hard to reach and a little cramped to straighten. On a side note, about a month ago I was moving my dad's Argo six wheeler when the throttle got jammed wide open. I had to swerve, tear up the neighbor's lawn and narrowly avoid hitting the side of his house before I got around to turning the key off.

All you really need is gear oil in the correct viscosity for the temperature range you will be driving it in. When I refilled mine I just bought some Valvoline DuraBlend synthetic-blend stuff from the auto parts store. I'm sure there are some threads on here or pages you could find by googling that would show temperature ratings, viscosity, and synthetic vs. non characteristics.

Have you downloaded the factory service manual for your car yet? Should have each EFI and electrical component listed in it.

I ran across this two weeks ago and didn't do too bad because I deal with some of these shapes on a daily basis on the computer. A couple caught me off guard though.

Thanks for the link bjhines. I guess I'm also one of those closet drippers who hasn't come out and said it yet. Looks like this'll be one of my next projects.

That was something I was wondering as well, hypereutectic or forged pistons? They also probably had to make at least some changes to the carb for the blowthrough setup.

That car has been on the Phoenix craigslist for quite a long time. I personally wouldn't sink my whole budget into that car right off the bat, because it will still require a lot more attention than 1-2 thousand dollars is going to let you give it. I say wait, see if you can budget some more money over time, then buy a running car in better shape. My car was a little worse off when I bought it for $900 in North Phoenix, and I spent 10k over the next year just rebuilding the drivetrain, replacing broken parts and redoing the interior. There is a thread on these boards about just how much money people have spent on their cars too if you wanted some further reading.

Should be snug I'd say. I can't say I've personally seen mustache bar bushings like those before. Here's a picture of a '72 and '76 bar for reference.

I agree, from everything I've seen, unless you're going to be spending lots of time upward of 8k rpm then you probably don't need it.