blue72

I didn't find that car listed in the reactionresearch site. Is it in some subsection I couldn't find? Reaction Research is the company that make the YZ kit that's partially installed on this craigslist car in question. This particular car has been on craigslist for a number of months now. The biggest turnoffs are probably the blanked quarter windows. Those and the number of missing parts combined with asking price is probably why it's been for sale for such a long time.

I noticed yours in the other thread, and that is an impressive achievement. Which transmission are you running if you don't mind me asking?

I haven't forgotten about you Emptyset. Two days ago I found my page of notes with the measurements, but couldn't remember which was L16 and which was Ecotec. I was going to get some better measurements today, but it snowed a foot and a half. Here's for ZZZeee. A picture I took between snowstorms: That should help you understand the odd configuration of the intake manifold.

I'll try and answer as best as I can remember for you. 1. There is no gasket between the tensioner housing and engine block. 2. The tensioner shoe piston should be spring loaded. The spring pushes it against the timing chain. 3. I think the general idea is to have the guides closer together rather than further apart. Only the tight side guide has any adjustment, and mine only had an adjustment slot at the top.

Yes, thank you. I'll be emulating your build a little down the road (with less of a budget however). I've already got a P90, triple carb intake, etc... Just looking for a general idea of clearances before purchasing a shell, measuring thrice over, then ordering ITB's of my own. Very impressive work you've done so far.

Chemicalblue, are you referring to one of the Wangan Midnight live action movies?

I'm surprised at how many of these videos I've seen. The only two I hadn't seen before were the racing flyby vids. Here's another, the famous knock video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abqJ9Hc9l90

Yes, my translations was just a "hmmm, this sounds reasonable", plus, it was late. I know that the L-Gata Module refers to the family of engines, but I'm not exactly sure what Turbo San Gata means. I suppose if you were to think of it analytically then it could come up with a few different outcomes. We already know what the word turbo references. San can refer to the number three, or be used as an honorific or it might find use in some other manner entirely. If it were used as an honorific then it'd mean Turbo Mr. Used as a number it'd be Turbo Three. It seems Gata can have a few meanings, but the most common use being 'type'. Others might include shape, form or configuration. Now we come up with some other translations. Turbo Three Type Turbo Mr. Type Turbo ??? Type There, I think I'm now more confused than when I began.

Turbo L-series more or less. It's the next natural step in evolution after the infection takes hold, and one I'm afraid I'm now pursuing.

I did this last year. I had a clogged fuel line and had pulled off to the side of the freeway to blow through the pickup line with the cap off to vent. I forgot to put the cap back on, but didn't discover it until two hours later. Luckily it was still laying there in the emergency lane and none the worse for wear. You could probably get away with drilling a small hole in one of the ears of the cap and running a small length of cable from it to a self tapping screw in the immediate vicinity for a cheap fix.

Naw, that's one of them new fangled plastic fantastic electric turbo kits. Feller on E-bay was advertisin' one of them separate earlier today.

MONZTER, Do you mind me asking how much length you removed from the intake manifolds and how long your TWM ITB/intake one piece combo came out to be?

I personally have 4, but I know there are a whole roaming herd of them at the shop (-edit- found 9 of them in a group cowering near the rafters -edit-). Haven't used them in years though. Lifts seem to scare jackstands into dark corners.

If you search hard enough on this site you'll find info about the L24E in the Maxima and 810. Since you said it was a Maxima ('81-'84), and assuming it's a gas engine, then it will have the weaker L24E with the small rod ends. Not very desirable at all. The only gas engined Maxima parts of interest to the Z community are the cylinder heads because they have a small combustion chamber with good quench characteristics. If it's an earlier 810 ('77-'80), then the engine rotating assembly is basically exactly the same as the 240Z, right down to the strong 9mm bolt type connecting rods. The big difference though, is the oil pan, oil pickup tube and dipstick location. The L24E's are front sump, so unless you do some drilling and other modifications, the engine will not bolt into a rear sump Z chassis (or just hack, beat, and mangle like the previous owner of my Z did when he put an L24E in my Z). If it's an LD28 diesel Maxima ('82-'83), then there are quite a few desireable parts aside from just the crankshaft (as long as you find the right buying audience). There is another forum on the 'net that deals entirely with Nissan diesel engines and there are certain parts that are very hard to come by for them. There's also another separate forum on the 'net that has an active subsection that deals exclusively with the first and second generation Maximas. You just have to delve deep enough into google.

Seems a little inconvenient having to carry around a portable air tank any time you want air up the bags. Where would you put your hobo accoutrements?

Nope, the wagon has an H190 straight axle setup.

Thinking that space is empty is what got us to find out about dark matter in the first place. In the 1970's astronomers noticed that stars in the middle of a galactic arm orbited around a galaxy's center at the same speed as the stars at the fringe of the galactic arm. That wouldn't be possible if there weren't a very large gravitational pull at the center of the galaxy. Much more gravity than what telescopes told us there should be. That's where dark matter, WIMPs, MACHOs, neutrinos, axions and other theoretical and real pieces of matter come into play.

To paraphrase “Understanding the Universe”: “Gravity isn't magnetism, it's a property of matter and space. Matter bends space. The more mass, the more space around the mass is warped.” The moon is orbiting in Earth's 'dimple' if you will. The tricky bit comes when you try to apply gravity to very tiny things like particles. To paraphrase "The Elegant Universe": Gravity is terribly feeble. Electromagnetism is quite a bit stronger. The outer shell of every atom contains a negative electrical charge. When you stand on the floor, your atom's electrical charges are repelled by the electrical charges of the floor's atoms. The electromagnetic force is billions of times stronger than gravity. At the level of individual atoms, gravity is an incredibly weak force in comparison. That's why you don't fall through the floor and get sucked to the center of the Earth. The theories of both Einstein (new gravity/relativity) and Maxwell (electromagnetism) can't account for particles in the atomic and quantum level though. Neither gravity nor electromagnetism are strong enough to create the links that neutrons, protons and other sub-atomic particles share. That's where quantum mechanics comes in. That's where things are ruled by chance and probability. At this level, particles obey the strong nuclear force and weak nuclear force. These two forces together with electromagnetism completely overshadow gravity for all things subatomic.

Can't see too much, but from the two pictures the rail looks a little beat up and it's got some rust holes, but nothing too serious. If that's the worst of it you probably got lucky.

I wouldn't use the silver car as the base for your project. Too much collision damage and it looks like it might be a rusty mess underneath. The 2+2 is obviously much further advanced. Like they said, wait to find a good chassis that's solid and straight. You'll be glad you did.

Good find heavy85. I agree, they're not necessarily used everyday, but it's nice to have when you need it. Mine recently saved me from trying to track down a NLA planetary gear spacer for an Allison 1000 trans. All I had to do was turn down the new one to the same thickness as the NLA part. Here's the old Nuttall Herber I use: I remember having to use a forklift to load it on the trailer and an engine hoist to remove it. They're almost a permanant installation once in place.

Here's my old digs where I rebuilt and swapped my engine and rearend, painted the engine bay and generally overthrew when I moved in. Here's the shop I'm managing (and occasionally using the resources of:)) right now.

I've seen at least three different numbers cast into stock turbo exhaust manifolds; KN3, KN7 and WN4. The three piece European manifold I've seen reference to was listed as a KN2. I don't know what the number is for the turbo manifold from the L20ET. Whether there were any changes between different numbered U.S. spec manifolds I also don't know. I'll have one in my possession soon (and bore gauges) if you need any measurements to make comparisons.

I just found out about the Vader pic, but Auxilary beat me to posting it. Anyone got a rebel alliance helmet? I'll get someone to take a driveby photo of me in my Z with its two painted panels, some primer and some bondo showing, then I'll be famous.

I ordered one at the beginning of December and it still hasn't shown up yet.