blue72

Mine's never worked either. One of these days I should hook up the multimeter to it. I'd love to see those vertical lines form in the rearview mirror.

It's only 12:15 here. Gotta be at work in 7 and a half hours. I've seen that video before too, but it's still fun to point it out to people who've never heard of it before.

That's impressive, takes great engineering skill and is plain old faster than anything I own. The part I don't get is how they claim it doesn't generate pollution. Okay, maybe the car itself isn't generating pollution, but unless you're buying your electricity from wind farms, coal is being burned somewhere to make the watts you're pumping into your electric car. Okay, I'll get off my little soapbox now.

That's a composite intake manifold. The exhaust manifold is on the other side of the engine.

Hmmm. I'm not quite so familiar with the Flat top carb equipped cas, but the other 240Z's only have two fuel hard lines that come from the rear. The larger is the pickup from the tank and the smaller is the return line. In fact, the fuel rail I've got on my car came from a '73 that was in a junkyard, and I don't remember it having three lines, only two (there are only two lines going into the fuel rail anyway). Here are a few pictures of my '72 roundtops mounted to squaretop N36 manifolds (from that same '73 in the junkyard). I took the liberty of welding the unnecessary vacuum holes in the maniflolds when I had them off. Here's another picture showing the linkage better. Here's a link to another thread where we went over the differences between the N and E series manifolds. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135702

You might want to get some carb spray and start spraying around with the car running. Pay close attention to how it runs when you spray around the intakes and any other possible suspect areas. You might have some residual vacuum leaks present. Then again, it might be something completely unrelated, but you're only out a cheap can of carb spray.

I'll have to look into this because I've got a nice Logitech feedback wheel languishing in my room at the moment, neglected.

I watched all of these a few months ago. Pretty amazing stuff. Crazy stuff at the mass games, then the end with him singing Sex Pistols and everyone thinking he's just some drunk American. Incredible. Has anyone else here seen the recent 'photos' of Kim Jong Il where they 'shopped him into different backgrounds so they could say he's doing well and not bedridden in a hospital?

Just spotted gas for $1.39 a gallon at the grocery store gas station. If one were to utilize their 15 cents off coupon from the store that equates to $1.24 a gallon for regular unleaded.

I saved those pics to my harddrive in May of this year, this is nothing new. Apparently it was just a well coordinated photo shoot for a magazine, not a remake of the Wangan movie.

I've seen this exact thing before in the junkyard. I thought it was just a homebrewed solid mount, kinda like what naviathan said.

I don't know, I'd much prefer carrying around one phillips head screwdriver than varying sizes of hex head tools. There's also no indication of bolt strength or grade anywhere. I guess it's just not my style having anodized color keyed washers under each of my fasteners. If that's your thing though, I'm sure you could put together a list of which size metric fasteners you need and contact their sales person to put together a kit just for you (one of their universal kits).

It depends on the year of your Z. The very early 240's require a few more modifications that the later ones don't need when performing a R200 swap. I personally bought the front mount from a 280Z thinking I needed to 'flip' it and install that one instead of my original front mount. On my '72 it proved unnecessary and I'm still running the original front mount/crossember piece (it had less wear too).

I'm not sure who makes the accelerometers for the iPhone or how accurate they are, but those are some nice numbers notwithstanding. Oh, and thehelix112, they are talking about the g forces during acceleration and deceleration (horizontal G force), not lateral G's like in SCC's skidpad test. I don't really know of any listings for horizontal G's on any production vehicles, but did stumble upon this article a couple of times while googling. It has a table with common acceleration G values for general vehicle types. http://www.splung.com/content/sid/2/page/acceleration

I had a problem getting any sort of stable idle once. Turns out I hadn't tightened down the fuel pump and had a giant air leak from there. It just kept fluctuating from 800-2000 rpm until I found the culprit.

My model is based solely on the diagrams in the FSM and eyeballing my own Z, so it isn't on any exact scale or measurement system. Kirby260, a member on our boards (a quick search using the term '3d' turns up the thread) is attempting to match up the chassis diagrams with real world measurements in CAD, but is probably far from having a workable model yet. The only other model I have seen on this site was on AK-Z 's signature picture. His has flares and slightly modded body lines as well as an airdam in the front. If you feel up to it you might begin your own model, seeing as you say you are proficient in modeling already.

That's true, you must study out each of these parts first. You want a combination that will work together. If you have too much or too little lift or if your carbs and jets are too big or small for the airflow, don't have your AFR's adjusted acceptably over the whole RPM range, etc, you are only hindering performance potential. Best approach is to read the motor section stickies and buy the "How to Modify your Datsun/Nissan OHC Engine" book. My list was just a hypothetical setup that believe would work if well thought out and assembled properly. I think it's a good idea to point out that no single modification will allow you to achieve those power numbers. Only improving the carburetion and exhaust system will not get you there. Only improving the engine's breathing through cylinder head modifications will not get you there. Only achieving a stable, strong spark and optimizing the cam timing will not do the trick. It will take a good buildup with a thourough approach to making every part work in conjunction with all of the others. I also agree with the "throwing parts at it won't necessarily make it faster" idea.

200 WHP with an 2.6l L series is a lofty goal, but not impossible. Assuming an 18% loss of power or so from crank to wheels, that would mean around 245-250 crank horsepower. To get there I'd recommend improving the airflow drastically. That means you'd probably want triple webber carbs (or another well flowing carb setup) and a higher lift and longer duration cam. Modifications to the combustion chambers and intake/exhaust ports might need to be done as well. Whichever head you chose to use, you'd likely want a higher compression ratio to help make more power N/A. There are a couple of ways to raise compression, such as welding up the combustion chambers in the cylinder head, or shaving and shimming depending on the cylinder head you use. If you kept the E88 or any of the heads with smaller intake or exhaust valves you might consider modifying them to allow the larger valves too. A well done port and polish job can greatly improve airflow too. As long as the bottom end isn't too worn and the rings were in good shape it should stand up just fine to the top end improvements. Throw on a header, electronic ignition, appropriately gapped spark plugs and a few other little things and I'd bet you would have handily achieved your goal.

I too was wondering what kind of use you had in mind. I'll guess and say you'd probably like to try your hand at body kit / wheel and tire combos? Oh, and have you seen this one before?

No, you do not need any special tags or plates to acquire Hagerty insurance. The processes all depends on the state you are in (physically, not mentally). Usually you have to insure the vehicle before you can register it. When I was going through this with my Z in Arizona, I first purchased my insurance from Hagerty, then with all appropriate paperwork in hand went to the DMV. I registered my vehicle (for $21) and payed the extra $20-25 for the historical vehicle plate.

Yeah, the inner surface of the main caps isn't a mirror finish. I can't see any way for the main bearings themselves to wiggle about much because they are keyed on one end to prevent movement and torqued down at the same time. You'd probably have to show us some pictures of the "wear" for us to see what you're talking about.

I still haven't found it either. Leads me to think that it's probably on one of Jeremy Clarkson's DVD's he puts out periodically of himself mucking about in fast cars.

That's nothing. Google around for a bit and find the videos of the two guys who recently succeeded in base jumping the Burj Dubai. That's something crazy. Oh, and since I'm on Mountain Standard Time it's only 10:00 p.m. here. Here's a link to the video: http://current.com/items/89546563/world_record_base_jump.htm?xid=55 They're jumping illegally from around 2000 feet up the world's tallest building.

The earlier 280Z and 280ZX ('75-'83) R200 diffs use 10mm bolts to secure the ring gear to the carrier. The later 300ZX longnose R200 diffs use 12mm bolts to secure the ring gear to the carrier. The two aren't interchangeable. IIRC The shortnose R200 diffs in the 240SX and a few other cars use the 12mm style and are interchangeable with the '84-'89 longnose R200's. If you combine the two you could potentially purchase a used rear diff from an early 300zx and buy a new LSD from, say, Courtesy Nissan. You'd have a nice new NISMO LSD cheaper than many other routes aside from buying a whole limited slip diff used. Choices of gear ratios include: (via z31.com) 84-87 NA = 3.7:1 open 88-89 NA = 3.9:1 open 84-86 Turbo = 3.54:1 open I've got an '88 Z31 3.9:1 longnose R200 in my '72. Just waiting to get some money together before giving in to the LSD myself.

Make sure you drain the transmission first. Otherwise the tail end will likely spill fluid when you pull the driveshaft out of its slip yoke and try to finagle it out through the engine bay.