Nismo280zEd

Where did you purchase the LED's and what size did you use? I've been looking into doing this as well. Looks very nice! I plan on keeping the stock faces and just changing the illumination. -Ed

After having already gone through one car fire with the Z... I'll just pay my 2$ at the pump and drive away knowing my components arn't going to get eaten away by the fuel I just payed for. -Ed Also my webers have plastic floats in them and the metal ones are becoming very hard to find.

I moutned my side skirts with AL rivets and fiberglass. Everybody likes the blended look instead of the bolt on. -Ed

are you refering to the foam supports that keep the fender shape to keep them from denting?

I'm with ya on this one... I'm about to make my own bumper, layn' glass over the 280 chrome one I have and mount it to the bumper struts but have it basically on the body maybe 1/4" gap with rubber molding. -Ed

umm can't really help ya there... i use my stock 280z heater core and unit, actually it's not even hooked up right now (summer here in Houston,TX) Although I am researching a better blower motor. -Ed

alright you talked me into it... I'm gonna get a can of aquanet at Wal-Mart next time i'm there, sounds like a very good idea, so if it seels electrical.. does it keep polished AL from corroding from rain water? hmm the possibilites! BTW... are you refering to the flasher delays in JC Whitney or did you find something else to use? I'm going to do a full write up on it again and host it on a different page for people to reference once I get my car workn' again. Thanks for the Tip -Ed

lol hmmm hair spray and lighter equals long flame of fire... I'm thinkn' this could end up in a bad electrical fire lol. Or is aquanet a fire resistant hairspray? Does make ya wonder though. I might have to do a test sample with some aquanet on my own hehe. Yeah... about 3 years back my car caught fire... I rewired everything from the firewall forward, now as it is, I've re-wired everything but the rear brake lights, , the speedo, the tach, the clock, and the antenna. Everything else on that damn car has been rewired. So yeah.. it wasn't planned it was usually that.. midnight tryn' to get home ghetto riggn' so i can fix it later wiring. So yeah, I have relays every where in the damn car, all my wiring colors would make a theif scream and run. I've got black for power here, some from ground here, some green here, orange, yellow, white lol yeah... It's unique! I've spent the past 8 months tryn' to clean up the wiring and remove the harnesses I don't need, slowly but surely I'm making progress. The recent completion of my dual relay headlights has made a huge difference in wire clean up. Good luck with your project. Maybe I'll post a couple pics of mine (scary!) -Ed

LMAO... Lovn' it! Now those would be some powerful wheels. email me a pic of these "BILBO" wheels -Ed

I believe Mike... ON3GO has these on his green z "The Hulk" or maybe he just has the fronts.. but I think he has the rears too. -Ed

i've had a 280 n/a build up in mind for a while now.. I was told back when i was converting to carbs... that 240 rods were basically drop in compression increase. Run the stock 280 crank and pistons, put in some 240 rods and keep the same head and you should be lookn' aroun 9.5:1 compression increase right? Or did i severally miss something here? 7500rpm eh? so.. balancing the engine and takn' care of the valve train will allow this rpm? -Ed

I'm currently accepting any spare Z fuse boxs you guys have.. send em my way. -Ed

Yeah I got it figured out... The wiring is a lil different for the 280.. but nothing complicated, just different colors. The new Hellas shine like the North star hehe. now i just gotta run a splice off a wire to go to the indicator behind the speedo for high beam. Thanx for the quick response. -Ed

thanks for the quick response Nigel. I'm gonna see if I can't get it to work today with help of your diagramns and the other. I really need to get a dang electricians book. I tend to over complicate things. -Ed

I want to add to this.. I'll be accepting any old Z fuse boxes. -Ed

lol we have yet to see how much work Mike actually does on it haha! Just playn' ... I'm about ready to start hackn' and grindn' in the engine compartment... we need to talk about how you want to make the radiator cross support "pretty" again. To date... Mirrors shaved and all emblems. -Ed

Ok guys, as mentioned I've been doing alot of re-wiring. I wanted to put dual relays on my headlights to save the switch as i had once catch fire previously on me. Basically I'm following the diagramn from Susquehanna Motorsports this link... http://www.rallylights.com/useful_info/headlamp_wiring.htm Ok... now I have a 78 280z 2+2... I powered the part of the fuse box for headlights directly from the battery. Now there is a Right and Left headlight on the box, I'm using these as Highbeam and Lowbeam. the one with the red-yellow wire i'm using as high beam previously the Left headlight I believe, obviously the other one is low beam. I have these two wires coming into my relays on the "30" position on both relays as the diagramn shows. Then I have two seperate wires running to the headlights just as the diagramn shows, one lowbeam one highbeam. I also have both relays grounded. Now here is the problem.. on my switching wires terminal "86" I can only get one relay to click or power up. From the headlight switch I ran an ignition power wire the huge redwire (so the lights would shut off when the car is turned off) then the white-red wire I connected to my switching wire from terminal "86".. This works fine, turn the lights on it powers up. Now the High beam switch is confusing me a bit. There are two wires used by it. A black-red wire and a white red wire. By following Oem diagrams you find the white-red wire is the high beam wire (unless i'm reading this wrong) then the black-red wire is low beam according to the diagramns. So I thought about this... basically the switch is not doing anything on low beam (the black-red wire connecting to ground) then you switch it and the highbeams come on and it connects the red-white wire to ground. The black red wire runs all the way to my headlights as OEM the lights are not grounded to battery like in the motorsports diagramn. ok now I have the red white wire connecting to my switch wire for terminal "86" on my relay. Obviously this is not right.... I'm thinkn' I should just ground out the headlights, then run power into the red-white wire and use the red-black wire as my switching wire? This has me scratching my head and staring at wiring diagramns. I'd much appreciate any help on this! -Ed

Now that just takes skill.... getn' burnt by a cold heat soldering iron while it's off. He should be proud! For the record.. i have two standard irons, work good, just wish they would heat up quicker. -Ed

Sounds like loose wires to me.. I run a Maxima alternator -Ed

Well I ordered my fuse blocks a while back and they are still on back order. Kinda sucks. I ended up deciding to go with the AGC/AGU glass type fuses for reliability and I like the look better. Might cancel my order from Centech and get em from some place else. -Ed I as well am adding relays to my lights and I'm running Race Only Hellas

Mike... I took some baseline pics of the car before I started takn' anything off. I already started takn' things off stripn' down the chassis. finished up that body work left on mine the other day so it's all good for the rain now. lol. About to go out and start grinding things down to prep for welding. Yeah.. the rust patch on the rocker panel... pretty bad were gonna have to fab up new sheet metal for that. Other than that I haven't found any other areas of concern yet. -Ed

Glad I have a 280. Mine came out like cake, but mocking up the custom mitsubishi filler was fun! -Ed

As mentioned above.. stick with boat products, they have excellent adhesions just about all of them are waterproof and the standards are much higher than automotive products. They do cost more, but they are also better. Do as much filling with glass first, then use filler to smooth everything. -Ed

I'm guessing your refering to the timing marks on the gear the holes marked 1,2,3... in which case you shoudl put it at 1 first, check the timing... there is an oblong groove that the cam has to be to the right of i believe, kinda hard to explain, there are writes ups in the FSM and Haynes manuals

lol try it and find out. America.. the land of opportunity