Nismo280zEd

Glossy looks good and all, but I don't know... there's something sexy about a Z in primer right before paint... Lake the naked woman before she puts clothes on I guess... -Ed Nice job.. *props*

I'm confused on what your doing... you cutn' out the crossmember for the radiator.. then welding it back in with square tubing? -Ed

Negative captain.. I put overthing over to accesory power. I recently completed about a week long or so re-wire with my own fuse board. The radio isn't even hooked up right now but that is on acces too. All the gauges and everything I bridged over to access power today to test and see if they were causing the draw.. no luck. -Ed

I've been trying to figure out what drains my batter... Now that my car has returned to daily driver status, I can't simply "test" things by leaving hooked up over night to see if It drains the battery completly or not. Without anything hooked up to my batter it reads 12.74 volts... then hook it up.. It reads 12.49 volts... so about a .24/.25 volt draw or 1/4 of a volt. Is this enough draw to kill my battery? The only thing hooked up on battery power now is my ign switch, wiper power, and alternator. Thanx. ED (I have a suspision it's the alternator)

the only problem with the smoke idea... The Z is naturally ventilated... so you'll have smoke coming out vents and you dont' want to seal those up. As long as you dont' do that.. your good. and I believe the 240 vents were in the hatch if i'm not mistaken.

Josh... expanding foam is porus.. I would not recomend using it to keep out fumes. Granted our cars are not show queens, they car classic sports cars, and i bet if you drove a 250 gt ferrari you'd have some fumes in it too.. All vintage cars are going to have some issues, that's part of the joy from them. The rustic feel they deliver, the noise in the car, steering feedback, how they groan and moan over bumps.. that is what a Z is. Take it with a grain of salt. And if you want it really fume free, your gonna spend some dough. -Ed

Alright I know I read this but several searches came up with nothing about the stock 280 gauge. I read soemthing about ohm readings I believe for the 280 temp sending unit and there converion into temperature. so that you could check your temp gauge reading to see how accurate or innacurate it is.. Anybody seen this or know the link? -Ed

This is ridiculous. I honestly have a hard time seeing your fumes are that bad. my car has an open hole in the floor.. and open hole near the fuel filler, and an open hole where the throttle linkage goes through. I drive with my windows down with no problems, I even had them up today and didn't notice any fumes. You need to get a big tube of silicone... crawl under the car with the hatch open.. and look for light.. go up top.. and filler up. As mentioned by Sparks.. there are some major holes in the back of these cars that could benefit from silicon. Also the fire wall seals are often over looked, the hole under the battery is a big one.. fill that, then there is another big one below the brake booster. Also the throttle linkage, The shifterboot is often a serious problem. the rubber often had big cracks and holes in it. rubbler plugs in the floor boards dry rought after 20 plus years. there is a plug where the fuel pump wires cut through, alot of the scres go through to the underside of the body with, ie, seat belt botls, etc. if any are removed you have small little holes. All around the hatch, tail light seals, often the metal around the tail lights is not "true" and slightly warped causing sealing issues with the lights, the rear hatch seal is often deteriorated. there are two plugs in the spare tire well, around the rear struts the metal meets each other and can form a gap, the filler neck the pipes that come thruogh the floor from the tank to the expnasion vapr tank. This tank alone could cause you problems.. I'd recomend just takn' it out. you run the big hose to the filler, then connect the two smaller hoses together. Unless you are still running everything stock up front. If you do all that is mentioned and you still have fumes.. i'm gonna come out to your house cause i don't believe it. -Ed

Does your fuel cell have a filler neck on it? If so.. all you have to do is run the vent line to the fill neck.. so when you fill the tank.. the gas can escape. then you cap it off.. no fumes... that's all ya need. -Ed

I had this problem too and everybody seems to disagree with everybody else so.. I just have my two fans hooked up to manula switches in the cockpit. I mean.. interior lol -Ed

Finally... putn' that head to good use. -Safety Equipment You know I run the 83 brake booster and master cylinder? And that's a seriously scary thought if the Hulk is in worse condition interior than the blue one in my garage. That's just scary bro. Aight well i gotta get back to studyn'.. This Business Law test is gonna be killer. -Ed

This just re-inforces my theory all along. A simple rear spoiler UNDER the car below the gas tank would solve all. Smoothing out the airflow and forcing it to leave the car. -Ed

lol Mike you kill me bro... "im going to make my own... there is nice but not for no 250 bucks.. you can make one for less then 100 bucks easy." haha didn't I tell you that not but 2 days ago? lol. first you need to make up your mind. You spent thousands makn' that damn car for the street and you haven't even driven it. Now your gonna tear it all apart, take all the shiny off, everything out and bare bone it to go to the track. Your nutz man. lol I'd leave it the way it is, and just reduce some weight with interior. get fully adjustabel suspension pieces (which i thought you already had the control arms from MIke Kelly). What's up with the chrysler master cylinder? I would go with Earls SS lines from cali, espeically if your converting over to 240sx stuff. lol why am i even bothering responding to this Mike? lol Call me tomorrow about the Porsche -Ed

I had that exact problem when i searched. I coulda swore the 240 was posted. Yes.. I would like scanned copies if it's not too much of a problem! -Ed

I'm finding my wiper conversion a very popular modification and I would like to make it easier for some of the less experienced people on the board. I'm even considering making a drop in kit to sell to you folks. I would really appreciate any scanned copies of wiring diagrams to save me from having to buy manuals for all the Z's just to help some people out. I have a full 77 and 78 280z wiring diagrams I would like 240 any varying years, and 260 PM if you have anything. Thank you -Ed

While redoing my wiring over the past couple days I wired my wipers into the colum switch like OEM... what year is your car? -Ed I have 77and 78 diagramns I can help ya with

I think our 2+2's might me less prone to exhaust stink. I think the longer lines help smooth the airflow a little better than the reg 280's also the curvatur is a little different. I honeslty think my rear flares cured this. The paint used to yellow up around the hatch from exhaust fumes... now after 3 years running the flares and muffler the paint is barely showing a little exhaust build up. -Ed And yes... Silicon is your friend, also check your fuel pump cut through plug

lol yeah it was late... I run a Ron Davis Racing Radiator. I suspected a thermostat problem too... but if it were the thermostat not opening it would overheat and not cool at all on the highway. About 40mph and over I don't even run my cooling fans. Right now it has a 160deg thermostat in it (suposedly) but i tested it in my kitchen it fully opens at 180. But I'm starting to wonder if It's just my temp gauge giving a false reading from some threads I've seen on here. I'm also about to flush it out and run Redline Water Wetter in it with some distilled water. I think the problem is mainly due to my fans. I run two 12" cooling fans with the most CFM I could find on each. together they draw something like 3200 cfm If I remember right. but I think a nice fiberglass shroud around more of the radiator would give better results in stop and go traffic. -Ed

I bet that's a fun ride -Ed Nice work!

I think on the later Z's meaning the ZX's Nissan put coolant castings into the intake manifolds to heat them in cold weather. Not having a ZX myself I can't verify this but I remember reading this somewhere. Anybody else? -Ed

My car is a daily driver, I have no cracks on my side skirts. I'll try to get some pics this weekend in the sun. It's all in how you mount them You can't just mount them on the door area. They need to be supported. I made some AL brakets. You can kick mine and it doesn't hurt them.. Trust me I've done this on accident. It's also alot more work than some glue and clamps. -Ed Here are some general pics.. I'll try to get some close ups this weekend. http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/777368/1

Yeah I understand how that goes completely. Whatever filler you use... I would maker sure it's waterproof if your going baremetal. It'll save you from a big headache a year down the road when you have that nice shiny new paint on it and you start to get water bubbles under the paint from your body filler. Icky! I understand the hassles of setn' up a paint booth this is why my car is flat black with primer lol. Eventually it'll get some PPG and Clear on it. I would also recomend a filler with "body hair" or fiberglass reinforcement in it.. it's harder to work with but much stronger structurally and wont' "chip" on you or absorb water. I would really be hesitant about putn' puddy on bare metal though. maybe alteast treat it with some zinc better adhesion too. The bondo test you mentioned is interesting. I would think the sealer wasn't applied properly if the sealer was the weaker element of the 2. Also another little secret... any time you have bare metal.. use lacquer thinner to clean your surface. once you paint and need to clean.. use rubbing alchol (highester percentage you can get) It won't weakn the paint but cleans just about as well. Good Luck! Take some pics for us. -Ed

Ok.. if your welding it in place... how do you plan to replace the rubber when it dry roughts out on ya? The welding heat is gonna shorten the life spand of it. It'd be smarter to just wled it then inject some silicon caulk, would seal better too. -Ed

haha yeah.. It's a nice change for this car. Although the 5spd rebuild i need to is gonna be LOTs of fun and not so cheap. Hopefully the 4 spd will hold up for a while. Atleast it moves and runs again yay! Although it sounds my new gasket has an intake leak yet again... gah. The fun of Z cars. -Ed

Lol where the hell do you guys find these thigns? I mean honestly?