Nismo280zEd

Ok this is how I got the gauge to work finally! sender has yellow, yellow-blue, and black. followed the wires up under the passenger seat, took the seat out, carpet, back seat, etc. cut the wires under the seat. Hooked up my own ground, put power to the yellow-blue, then hooked the yellow wire up to the yellow input on the gauge, the hooked power up to the green wire on the back of the gauge, hooked up my own ground to the back of the gauge again. Fuel level slowly went up to "E" (prolly right cause the gas tank wasn't that heavy when i droped it) Btw... what page is that in your FM..? Now I gotta re-wire for the warning lamp. (thanx for all the help, I still get confused with electricity sometimes) -Ed

ok.. i know the fuel warning light works cause it came on driving once before. But... that whole area is out of the car.. so basically i broke the circuit by removing the warning lamp... so all of this testing i'm doing isn't going to work until i plug the warning light back in? < So once i plug it back in.. the yellow wire should be jumped to the gauge to test... yes? (The front half of my car burn't up about a year ago and i've been re-wiring since) However the fuel gauge hasn't worked for about 3 years. The sending unit is about a year old and i have two fuel gauges neither work when plugged in but the voltage meter works, so i'm assuming there is a split or short in the wiring somewhere. So if i ground the black wire on the gauge myself, then jump the yellow wire to the back of the gauge, it SHOULD read? yes? sorry for all the questions this one really messes with my mind

ok.. then howz it get power? I thought the sender had to have power? -Ed

Don't be jealous mike haha

we can see that by your spelling lol just playn' My Z is no where near scary, except for when it caught fire haha.

Maybe i'm the oddball here but i usually gap mine pretty big. Right now they are around .08 if i'm not mistaken.. I'll have to go double check one. -Ed

Ok... the fuel sending unit in my 280. Has a yellow, a yellow and blue wire, and a black wire. Assuming the black is the ground, I cut the yellow figuring that was the power wire, and the yellow and blue was the sending wire, jurry riged that with no luck, so i switch wires, cut the yellow and blue put power to it... still no luck. So I have this fuel gauge made by "Tempo" for boats and i wired it in there. With it's own ground, i used the yellow wire for the sending and put power to the blue and yellow and it read half tank. So my sending unit is working yes? Am I barking up the wrong tree or still on track? -Ed

That helps a little, so basically if i run the sending wire from the back of the oil gauge to the sender, then give it a 12+ source it will read. Then the fuel has two sending wires from what I understand you said, plus a 12+ and it's own ground. -Ed

Mike... where do you get all this money? (I want in) lol

OK I want to post this on here so All the Houston Area Z guys can reference it. The Machine Shop is behind NAPA auto parts in Conroe. The Number for Napa is... 936-756-5551. Just talked to the guy, he's been doing it for 30 years. He's done two heads for me and some other little here and there stuff. He comes highly recomended by me. -Ed

A Buick motor huh.. Yeah I'm about ready to scrap everything under the dash, I was thinking about graphing in a 90-94 Maxima setup, but I haven't measured anything yet. The buick Idea does sound alot cheaper though. hmm.. the possibilities -Ed

Yeah... I'm actually havn' a bit of problem with it drying. The day after I sprayed it it started raining non stop for about a week here... so it's still drying I think.. lol. couplde places are "soft" and you can kinda move the paint around a little. -Ed

woah woah woah.... you mean there is a direct bolt on replacement for the crapy z blower motor! So this should work for 280's as well right... -Ed

Hey sorry I haven't given ya a PM, been studying for my killer Law test. I have tomorrow off I'll get the number for ya. Yeah he's an older guy, very sarcastic but cool guy. He definatly knows his stuff. -Ed

my friend has an 89 Rx7 with some mods, exhaust, intake, nothing serious yet.. And he's well past 150k. ~Ed

.. good thoughts... I remember growing up riding in the back of the Z I own now. It used to be my fathers. You could go with the roll bar... pad it of course, just keep the OEM passenger seat? still maintain axcess? I want my bar to follow with close tolerances to the car. I've been around alot of race preped 911's and I've become spoiled with their roll cage installations. They make the ones for the z look like hideous ugly monsters. ~Ed

You don't want to miss out on this picture perfect image of american muscle car history!!!!! um... he musta been smoking something. Dont' know about you guys.. but i definatly don't consider the Z an American Muscle Car. lol. Japenese sports car yes.. -Ed

Speaking of the sticky thread, I have one with my name on it for wiper upgrade, but beacause i posted it so long ago, all the links are broken and the pictures don't work. Alot of people here are visual learners and the pictures are worth more than 1,000 words. I feel many people get discouraged from doing the upgrade because they get confused reading the 9 pages of text. I'd be really nice If an adm or mod could go through it and clean it up a bit. There are members here that have the pics i once posted and would be more than willing to host them. I really like the broad array of expertise on this forum. The exhaust physics, great technical thread, nice change. Then everything from acoustical engineers, to aerospace designers on here. I love to learn and feel i've learned more from this site than any class. Also, I feel strongly about the FAQ section, or maybe some seperate forum for just posting upgrades. IE wiper upgrade, maxima alt upgrade, V-8 swaps, etc. things of this nature that are great threads but get lost in the database. just my .02 Thanks for a great forum, ~Ed

yeah me too... Olie and I could work partime there

so your going with non-reclining in your 2+2? I guess storage isn't a necessity as much for you. I don't think I could live with that. -Ed

Pictures Mike pictures -Ed

Theres a really good machine shop in conroe that i've used. He doesn't advertise, but his work speaks for itself. He's worked on Z's before so he knows his stuff. The guy own a machine shop behind Napa parts store off 105 I believe. If your interested let me know. -Ed

good lord, 9.0cfm at what psi? ALOT of things will work on that, every spray gun that's for sure. My DeVillbis only requires 25 at the tank pressure, and i reg to 12-15 at the gun. The Gun is a $600 gun I found online for sale for 270. My only complaint with it... It came with the "no drip" lid.. After the first winter and summer in the garage, the plastic top shrank. So i have to wrap tape around it before I spry to get a tight seal. I'd look for something with a screw on lid and avoid plastic. The HVLP does take a lil bit to get used to... I'd recomend playing with it on some cardboard before spraying the car. Especially when you spray clear, I use about 1/3 of the flow for clear as I do for color. Maybe that's just my gun though. Also... with your flake, make sure you have a big filter in the cup, or remove the filter. Happy Spraying (my favorite part of workn' on cars) -Ed Oh, almost forgot, I dont' know where you live, but go down to your local paint store, not a sherwin williams or anything like that, but a local place. They should have some dang nice HVLP's for cheap. After I spent the dough on mine, I found a new paint shop that sold some HVLP's with plastic cups and screw on lids. My friend bought one, he paid 90 painted his 56 Ford with it. I'd say mine sprays better, but I also payed three times as much. For the money it's much more than just a "primer" gun.

I've got the perfect solution... Build another Z for the 383!! hehe -Ed

Well.. my previous setups... When I first got the car, I put a powered bazooka bass tub in it... mounted it horizontal in the back seat.. it hit toward the passenger sie of the car, worked well, but it wasn't enough bass and the response was lagging in my opinion. So... put the tube in my mom's maxima and ordered a US acoustics 2x200 or 400x1 amp I can look the model number up if ya like i still have it. Then i found a pionner comp sub for 10 bucks on clerance at Best Buy. First I mounted the sub in a fiberglass encloser i made to fit into one of the jump seats. The glass rattled alot since it wasn't bolted down, and It didn't hit very hard. After that... bought some wood at the local Lowes hardware, the stuff that is basically sawdust glued together, forget the name of it. Made a triangular base, calculation the squar volume needed for the sub, mounted that in the back of the z with the amp bolted on back of it. Hits hard as a mother when it gets close to the glass. This is a 10" sub. The setup works, but I don't like it. I loose too much cargo space and can't axcess tools, etc without taking out the sub. So I'd like to move the system either to the sides of the rear (where the body panels are, cust fiberglass enclosures) or... infront of the strut towers since i have a 2+2 and don't use the backseat. Headunit is a basic Blaukpunt with CD removable face, came with two speakers 5"ish.. I think. The reason I was thinking two subs, would be because I know when i move the setup away from the glass i'm gonna loose the punch, so i figured i'd have to add another one to make up for it. I listen to alot of up beat music, punk rock, alt, techno, but i also listen to rap, jazz, slower "bass music" I guess you'd say. So I want the system to respond quickly, but I want some low end punch too. And of course I want it to sound clean. Thanx for all the help with this, isn't exactly my area of expertise! -Ed