Nismo280zEd

haha ok i feel retarded.. dise regard this post. I simply mis marked my wires... I labeled the wire that powers all the guages (OEM box called it Fuel gauge) labed that dome lamp so it was hooked to bat power instead of ign. Swapping the two should fix this problem. Thanx for the help though. Ed

if you have a garage you can get away with on metal, but if your doing this outside.. then spray epoxy first. Also.. you shouldn't be using that much filler that it can shear from the metal. -Ed

I dont' think any of use are weber experts lol like being an expert guesser. -Ed

Well I don't use metal filler, I do my own metal work, welding grinding, smoothing etc. Do not put bondo or any non waterproof body filler on bare metal, it will soak up moisture through the metal and you will end up with a big huge mess. I would strongly advise to spay with epoxy sealer first. Then you can use a waterproof boat filler from evercoat or such products. But hey.. it's your car. -Ed

you rock bro... After lookn' at the 78 schematic.. I think the problem is with the Green power wire... tracing it back to fuse box is supposed to get power during ign or "ON" so tomorrow i'll screw it onto an ACC terminal and see if that solves the problem.. if so i must just have an ign wire mixed up. Thanx for the help -Ed

I run a racing AL radiator, and I actually have a problem keepn it warm on the highway when it's cold outside. especially if it's raining. say good bye heater till you get to a stoplight and warm it up a lil. Just FYI... if it ain't broke don't fix it. if you feel the necessity for more cooling go with a 4 core from MSA If you feel the need to go AL though, PM I'll give you the part number of the radiator i used. from Don Francis racing. -Ed

New b check out MSA for package deals or buy from a hybrid member, you'll get much better service that way than deal with TEP in Cali. Stick shocked you can run 8k on stock bottom end. I though the harmonic dampener was only good to like 7,500rpm. wow... I'm not that brave yet.

posted in the wrong message... my bad

Wow.. that's awesome bro. How much have you invested to get it this far? I would love to have a tiwn cam Z what are the 4 banger blocks off of? -Ed

I hated it, it didnt' mount correctly with my carbs, ditched and bout a thick flange MSA header... I like it very much! -Ed btw.. the flange on the other one warped and didn't sit flush.. pain in the butt

judging by the flange it's an equal length knock off. prolly made back in the 80's I have a header with exact flange... I'd recognize it anywhere... the way the welds are... -Ed

Equal length header I think MSA still sells equal length ones. And don't knock the frame filter.. -Ed

me

Yeah that would help, I still can't find my 78 FSM.. I dont' know what happened to it! Also I run an 83 280zx brake booster and master cylinders, so they arn't in the wiring circuit... I gues I could add then while i'm doing all this though. -Ed

anybody have a mechanical advance dizzy to work with some triple webers? lol... didn't think so.. -Ed

lol... wow.. those bring back the days.. I used to have a 95 Ford Taurus SHO. Ford never ceases to amaze me with their stupidity in electronics. Rock solid engine from yamahaa.. and a shitty electronic system from Ford. I eventually found out the car had a leaky waterpump at temp... the minute leak would slide down the case onto the TPS sensor below, eventually the coolant would heat up the sensor and the car would die out. Then you had to wait 20 min.. start the thing... throgh it in drive real quick and see how far down the road you get before you had to put it in neutral.. start it.. put in drive and mash the gas and coast again. lol yeah... after driving that car I can drive anything. Best of luck with the problem, check your bypass hose, it might have a small crack in it spraying on your injectors. -Ed

I used some foam from a pool floattie I found at Wal-mart... that worked well... then when my car caught fire... it kinda melted that from the heat... so I dont' use any now.. I just don't lean on the fenders. However, McCaster would be a great source to get some rubber to suppurt under there. I would use something like construction adhesive to keep it on without the heat melting it. -Ed

Yeah.. i'm eventually gonna polish my webers.. but all in due time

Ok I think you guys went wayyy off on a tangent here... to answer the original questions. I Live in Houston where the humidity pretty dang high. Bare metal will start to surface rust in a day without even any rain. As for stripers, I highly recomend the Por-15 stripper.. I used it along time ago in my engine compartment, however it is extremly caustic and will even eat through your gloves. Beware. If that's a little to expensive I went down to Lowes and got a stripper they had there.. kinda like blue guey stuff.. not nearly as toxic, but it doen'st melt your gloves either. For anything else on my car.. I used a sand blaster to get the paint off. Once the paint is off yes you need to treat it to keep it from rusting. Ideally you would want to strip the body, work the dents while it's in metal (NO BONDO HERE) using lead and slide hammers and dollies etc. to work the metal. Then spray the whole car down with an epoxy based sealer/primer. Just make sure it is epoxy based, that will seal the car and protect it from water. Then once that is cured, you go and lay down your body fillers and sand them out, lay down some high build primer, sand that and then you start to spray your color and clear. As far as primers go.. RacerX turned me onto a great paint called "Zero Rust" similar to por-15 but you can use it as a topcoating, UV doesn't affect it's protection properties. I've used Por-15 before and it's a pain the *** personally, and very expensive. Their products do work well but I would keep it to under car application or suspension pieces etc.. Also I would recomend using the clear por-15 if you do ever try it. I am paranoid about rust and with the clear you can see if it's working of not. I should mention Por-15 should not be used as a general primer for the car, it's used to seal metal. Even with their tie coat primer they sell that allows you to topcoat it... I've had issues with it. I use only PPG products now, they all work well together, and support is very easy to obatin if you need any. I must stress... DO NOT PUT BODY FILLER ON BARE METAL. Just take my word on that. RacerX has more paint knowledge than I do. I would highly recomend you talk to him for specific questions. Good Luck! -Ed

Thanks for the sites.. i'm interested in playn' with carbon after i get a little cashflow coming in. -Ed

I used to have a 2 1/2" chrome tip that came about 6" out of the body or about 1-2" past the bumper. Never really had a problem with exhaust fumes unless the hatch was open (carrying something). I took my a/c out, i have a Magnaflow street serries muffler one it now.. opens up to a 4" tip that maybe protrudes... 1/2" -1" from the body now and I don't have any problems with fumes. It's basically the aerodynamics of the Z, porsche used a rear spoiler underneath the car.. on their 928's to smooth out the rear flow and take the exhaust away. I also put rear flares on my car.. that seems to help the airflow back there as well. Not to mention turning you vent on inside the car can do wonders while you drive with the windows down. And I've said this exact same thing before.... -Ed

I didn't realize the larger cam duration and lift could allow you to run a little more compression, I'll have to remember that. Makes sense now that I think about it. -Ed

Ok I've finished re-wiring everything to my board, all the fuses, relays, etc. all there. I hesitantly hooked the battery up yesterday.. no fuses blew.. Ok so feeling adventerous I put the key in the ignition.. Acc relay clicks over, power works, ign power works, everything seems to be good except one thing i notice.. I take the key out.. and the brake light is still illuminated on the speedo. So i push the e-brake down.. it goes off. Somehow this circuit is hot without the key in the ignition. So i'm starting down the problem on the wiring diagramns.. as far as i can tell the green yellow wire goes to the actual brake switch, parking brake switch, the indicator on the speedo, and into a "Brake Warning Lamp Check Relay" Ok so i figure this has got to be where it's getn' it's power from. There are three wires that go into on the diagramn, yellow, green-yellow, and black, The black goes to body ground, and the yellow seems to go to the voltage regulator (wiring diagramn from a 77 280 i have a 78) which doesn' exist on my car and the the alternato, which the fuse is disconnected so there is now way it could be transfering power. any thoughts on this? -Ed

I thought 10.5:1 Is the highest you could run on pump gas? -Ed

Well i dont' know about the 240's and 260's but while doing this whole re-wire.. I cam across the intermitten relays for the 280 with the oem wiper.. It should be fairly easy to adapt it for the honda motor, then just splic into the in put with a rotor style resistance switch, then you can just turnt he knob to adjust your intermitten. I'll work on a schematic in the next couple weeks. -Ed