Nismo280zEd

I recently lost my one and only key with all my doors locked. Nissan cut me the wrong key a few months prior (the groves were reversed) so i took a friends key with proper groves.. and had them cut a new key to the notches the one Nissan did... it works.. but only one problem... they cut a little too much at nissan.. so my key now.. only works one way. Meaning i stick it in the lock.. it won't unlock.. take out rotate it 180 stick it back in.. it works. Warren... are you telling me you can fix this problem? I don' think the locks are original.. If i get a code off the passenger door lock you think it will work? -Ed

I had this same problem on my 280z motor... turned out it was the crush seals on the spark plugs... They had been tightend and loosened too many times... new set of spark plugs and I never had the problem again. -Ed Also if you run synthetic (assuming you do) you'll have aslight leak around the valve cover seal... just nature. The oil is doing what it was designed to do... get into every little knoock and cranny.

Good information here. I run triple webers and didn't know the EGT was just as usefull as afr if not more. -Ed

I've been lookn' for a good voltage regulator! Thanx guys! (Just Kidding) -Ed

Mike... you need to come look at my car again. I run SS 3/8 hard line if ya didn't remember that.

stay with EFI don't kill your wallet like that

It was the frign' alternator like I thought. Gonna buy a high amp relay from jegs and wire it up.. should solve all problems. -Ed

I'm waitn' for my mallory, and my 17's don't exactly help my 0-60 lol.

I'd rather have white tape than sticky gooe lol. Yes i'm very familar with "orfice cloggage" dealt with that the hard way before.. but it was only a water line so no biggie

Yes they did declare bankruptcy.. A company in Californica has the rights I believe.. not positive.. parts are not sky high.. unless you have the 32/36 DGV side and down drafts really arn't being affected.

Did you mention you need an F54 block? lol -Ed

ok... so I have adapters that go from -6AN to 1/8" NPT to go into my regulator... so your recominding tape on the 1/8-reg connection? (I hate pipe dope) And I have some never seez i can use for all the AN-AN connections... I have a male 6am "T" fitting... that hooks up to my SS hard lines using AN fittings... so I CAN or CAN'T but anit seiz on them? Also I should probably use tape on my 1/8 NPT fuel gauge connection then huh? Makes sense now that I think about it.. AN uses flared fittings.. those do the sealing not the threads.. I gotcha. Thanx -Ed

Mike's doing my U-joints for the halfshafts, then my new mechanical advance dizzy should be coming in late next week for the webers, also got 90% of the parts i need to run my return line on the webers. lol don't know If I'd pass track inspection with my high tech leather belt battery holder lol. But atleast I can watch! lol -Ed (leavn' the 25th be back Junes 1st)

Lol I could see it now... going down the highway and adjust your mirror and bam... door pops open.. ROFL oh man it would be great.

First time using the flared AN fittings... should i assemble these like brake lines, no teflon on the threads? I'm using them for my fuel line connection 7psi max. I was going to assemble them without anything but thought I might check with the other guys here to see what they use. -Ed

Everybodies a comedian... Olie... tell em how long it took ya to put that nice header on.. hehe. -Ed

Well if money isn't much of an issue it wouldn't be a problem.. I'm a college student with a tight budget. I can't go blow 450 for a new mallory dizzy, or drop 200 on a dime for weber jets, things like that have kept me from getting them running properly. However, changing my idle jets yesterday did help, but now it idles very.. umm... uniquely. -ed

I'd like to do this as well.. but i'm afraid to cut into my shiny new Hellas. Also they are as bright as HID's on highbeam.. kind worried if the blinker would even show. -Ed

I hate to bring up this old thread but I think we could add some usefull info to it. With my triples i'm getn' 9.4 mpg in town... 11 with the regulator on 3psi. My new jets come in tuesday... smaller air correction jets and bigger idles. hopefully my tail pipe won't be so black. -Ed

lol this is the worse idea I ever had... My webers still dont' run right. -Ed

You should really verify spark first... trust me.. I've had the same problem with my 280.. and I had a wire that was bad and wasn't wiring (and they were barnd new NGK wires.. 1 month old) just plug un plug the wire.. hook it up to a spare plug and lay it on the valve cover, you'll find out real easy if you have spark of not (and you can see from inside the car while your turning it over) always a plus! Since it's EFI I would check timing and vacumn as well. I know on the 280's the pressure reg on the manifold is controlled with vacumn. Also this might sound retarded but.. have ya checked your spark gap? -Ed

I'm a very visual person, but I think I get the jist of your diagramn with your explanation. Being tired doesn't really help either, but from your diagramn.. It looks like your weak link is still gonna be the bars coming from the sturts.. they just weld up in teh middle of the brace.. any force get's put on them.. they are going to want to break taht weld. Is there a reason why the can't meet up in the center of the horizontal brace? is that allowing room for the radiator to drop in.. or? I'm still confused one why you are even tying the strut bars to the radiator support. I'd keep them seperater personally. Keep in mind how everything is going to go in and out of your car as you add all this bracing.. Make some of bolt together, so you can remove the engine later, etc. Good luck, post pics of the progress. -Ed

No offense but the design looks really weak. There are no structural shapes in your braces. Your forgetting a key part of engineering... the strength is in the shapes. Equilateral triangles will be the stongest shape you can make in your bracing. From what it looks like your tying the strut bar into the radiator support which I dont' think is such a hot idea. Strength in the Z is from the sheetmetal as blueovalZ mentioned. but the suspension is tied to our frame rails. If your going to use tubing to weld up a radiator support... you need to extend the frame rails forward and box them closer like the factory did. Then use that as a base to tie all your bracing into. The use of the X cross bracing would be very strong, but prolly interfere with cooling fans or airflow depending on which side you put it. Furthermore, you can't just weld square tubing to the sheetmetal with out some problems... your goign to have to weld a flange to the sheetmetal for more surface area for the load to disperse, then weld up your "rectangle" with tubing... on each corner weld in a cross brace... so you have your corner that meets... say go back from the corner 4" on each bar... and weld in a diagnol. That forms your triangle... Weld those in all corners and that should keep it from "flexing" out of shape. Also the radiator does not need to be mounted so rigidly that horizontal forces cause the core to shear. But hey it's your car... -Ed

eeek... single stage huh Your a brave man... I'd double check with RacerX, but I'm pretty sure you can wet sand it like standard clear and buff. But I'm not positive on this... -Ed I just did a couple quick searches and it appears with your ppg single stage urethane.. you can treat it the same as base/cear , wet sand till dull then buff out. -Ed (revised)

I wouldn't touch it till the paint cures up real well... then wet sanding should get rid of any contaminents that fell in the clear during spray. My friend used to use a clay bar with alot of sucess. But yeah... I woudln't touch it till you can no longer smell the paint. prolly 1 long week depending on, temp, humidity, etc. -Ed And yeah... blue Z's catch alot of attention from personal experience... better get a radar detector.