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sbooth

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Everything posted by sbooth

  1. If you're using a p90 head like me, a .040 over l24 rod 2.8 piston of zero deckheight will get you a solid 8.5-8.7 cr. That's perfect for a turbo engine with only 1 bar of boost. Mid 7 cr is unnecessarily low. Also placing a fully dished piston under a kidney shaped combustion chamber is not ideal. If you want dished use a "reverse deflector" style piston. My AZZC pistons are forged and cost 600 with pins and rings and as mentioned work perfectly with stock 2.8 crank, L24 rods and are .040 over. These are flattop. Good luck.
  2. Personally, I feel if you're running a stock bottom end to 7800 rpm and something on the bottom end lets go you don't have much invested in the grand scheme of things and shouldn't worry too much as you can buy a new bottom end core for 200. Go get a core and start building the bottom end or buy a 3.0 assy from rebello and get it ready as time and money allows. In the meantime, let us know how the stocker holds.
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  4. I recently had same problem when switching to Fidenza 240mm flywheel and Centerforce dual friction assembly. I could not work thru gears unless I preloaded to bearing with slave cyl rod. I replaced master cyl and went to non adj style fork for 280z and longest available collar for TO bearing. Bought these new from Dave at AZC. No improvement. Dave also lent me a new oem style 240mm pp and disk. No improvement. Snow came and put car up for winter. 2 weeks ago took out Fidenza flywheel and CF dual friction and replaced with an extra HKS 10 lb steel 225 flywheel and cf 2 clutch for my na autox car and all worked perfect. I had also tried longer slave rods to no avail. The Fidenza is on it's way back to be checked for proper dimensions. I suggest you try a stock or known flywheel and a known clutch(your cf is probably ok) for a diagnostic step. I have struggled with lack of engagement for 2 months. Good luck
  5. I like the 3.9 with a 25" tire and a 3.06 first (na 280zx). If I was running a lower first gear (3.5), no way or a shorter tire for that matter. Using taller rear gears will load the engine more and can cause more boost making traction problems. 10 psi max with a 3.9(can't build max boost due to lack of load) vs 17 psi with a 3.54 may be a blessing in disguise. This assumes street type tires, suspension and lauch technique ( playing throttle jockey) vs real drag racing.
  6. Any progress on pics for companion flange and stub axle? Thanks
  7. Actually, the longer L-24 rods (5.24inch) are only worth anything if they have the 9 mm bolts. These are found on L-24s with serial # after 096182. They usually go for 100-150 per set. The 5.24 rods with the 8 mm bolts are much less desirable but can be upgraded with ARP 8 mm rod bolts. I don't know if the 8 mm ARP rod bolts are as strong as OE 9mm bolts much less ARP 9mm rod bolts.
  8. Try an AZC cam kit or Rebello's basic performance cam listed on their web site. Both are good jack of all trades type street performance, and work well with 8.4 to 10.5 compresstion street engines such as yours. They are both .480 lift and 275 ish duration gross figures. Good luck
  9. Looking for at least 1 stub axle and companion flange. Will consider more as spares.
  10. I absolutely bow to others knowledge and experience and suggest the simplicity of the ST setup. If interested in the factory location type bar, the retrofit Nissan Motorsports installation kit pn is 99996-E4010. You'll receive two bolt in brackets that should be tack welded at least with supplied rubber bushings for a 20mm rear bar off any of the '73-'78 Zs. Urethane can be purchased extra not instead of from Energy Suspension. Not sure but the 2+2 models may have a bigger rear diameter as well. Listen to the advice about contact if your car is very low
  11. Just went thru all my old cores and measured diameter left. Most are junk so I called Carquest and they said they could get (new or used/refurb?) for $89 each. I didn't get into details as I have 4 within spec extras but just a lead.
  12. Nice work. I enjoyed your photo sequence. My GC kit came with the aluminum plates also but I had 3/16 plate steel dupes made and welded in after all stock mounting was cut out. The welds were beveled and dressed. Nice to see a different approach. BTW the aluminum plates are for sale. Sorry for the solicitation but I couldn't control the urge!
  13. Taken from a Nov/Dec '92 Grassroots Motorsports article: 240Z-front 16mm and added a 20mm rear in '73 and later 260-280Z. 260-280Z had 18mm front bars with the mentioned 20mm rear. 260-280 2+2 had 20mm front bars with 20 mm rear bar. hope this helps
  14. BTW, I've had 3 cars painted over the last 10 years of cheap and very expensive variety and your powdercoated parts will likely get overspray on them in the process. Perhaps spend the efforts to press out old bushings, hit parts with flat black spray can and replace with urethane for now. After paint job, the urethane bushings are easy to remove and have the steel suspension components powdercoated and re assemble. More work but less dissatisfaction. Remeber to mask off machined mating surfaces and close tolerance bushing slip on surfaces as powdercoating can add .01-.02" of thickness.
  15. On any other color scheme I'd say silver but the gold looks best on your combo!
  16. Combination of stitch welding and seam seal the areas inbetween then use a weed sprayer to get por15 into all the hiden areas of the rockers, subframe connectors ect.
  17. Perhaps a company like Daystar who does spacer lift kits of 1-3 inches for jeeps/trucks could tackle this with a thinner insulator of urethane and slightly offset the three mounting bolts so if you rotate the the bolt/hole relationship, you could change the camber slightly. This would be good for the guy who is using full diameter sport springs to create a 1inchish cosmetic rake, and correct mild camber adjustments to his restored but un adjustible suspension. Opinions?
  18. Have to love the old school styles in modern sizes. That's what looks best on muscle car resto-mods too.
  19. Sorry if I'm wasting your time but what main venturi size do you need? The reason I ask is I have a set of 40dcoe on cannon with proper dampener/insulators with all velocity stacks and K&N filter tin with 34mm venturis. This flows as much as as-delivered 45s since they usually come with 34mm venturis. Most 40s come with 30mm for Datsun Z kits. Thanks. Call me 928-978-0499
  20. I have 6 Arias .020 over flat tops with no valve reliefs.These are used but come with new Total Seal Rings and are sitting in a rebuilt short block on the stand. They are non silicone so require .006 clearance. Full floating pins on non bushed 5.13 (L-28) rods are included. $200. Also some .020 Ampco cast pistons out of a 25K rebuild. Minimal skirt scuffs. Needs rings, $50. Call for details. 928-978-0499
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