Lukaniuk

Do you mean Edmonton Alberta Canada?

You'll definitely need a search button

hahaha as soon as the Hot Wheels engineers get on it .

I'm actually staying in Camrose for a while so I was taking highway 13 which goes straight to Saskatoon. The town was Provost. Ya I work as a mine engineer for Cameco at the McArthur River mine. The majority of the people there are still from LaRonge, PA and Saskatoon. A few of the technical staff (engineers, geologists, and techs) are coming from Alberta, and Manitoba. Some even come in from the Vancouver area.

For work I fly out of Saskatoon Saskatchewan to a uranium mine on a week on week off rotation. However, I live by Edmonton Alberta which is 500 kilometers away from Saskatoon. My last 3 rotations I drove the Z with no problems. At 11:30PM Last night, 50kms past the nearest town and 150kms from home, my alternator died. Literally in the middle of nowhere. I was able to phone a tow truck driver and he showed up an hour later with a truck who's parking brakes, reverse and spot lights didn't work. Also, since the brakes didn't work, he turned the truck off so that he could put it in gear to stop it from rolling away and we couldn't start the truck again. We eventually got it running again by chocking the wheels and kicking the starter with a screwdriver. We get the car loaded and make our way back to the tow truck's shop in small town Alberta.Now its 2:30AM and I'm 200km from home. Although not the most prepared tow truck driver, the man was one of the nicest people I have ever met. I am truly lucky he was working last night. He let me stay on his couch, In the morning I ate breakfast with him and his wife and he helped me replace the brushes in my alternator and I'm on my way by Noon. And then I make it 99% of the way home. 10 more minutes to go. One more truck to pass. And then, while passing... Temp gauge runs to max, steam from under the hood and clouds of smoke behind the car. I pull over, white smoke from the tailpipe and the rad is nearly dry. 'F***!!!! Head gasket' I was able to find some water, fill up the rad and limp it home. I'm nearly out of water again by the time I'm home. This thread turned out to be more of a vent for me, but I hope somebody gets some enjoyment out of it. Also, if you have an extra head gasket around I'd gladly take it off your hands with ample compensation if you can ship it fast.

Looks great! What's your suspension setup & tire size?

I'm happy with it so far. however, if I were to do it again, I'd spend the extra little bit and get a completed unit. It took a lot more time soldering than I thought it would.

Megasquirt has been working great so far. I did my first autocross (both for me an the car) last Friday. The car ran great & I'm hooked on autocross. For those of you who know Canada - I fly to work out of Saskatoon, but I live in Edmonton. Tuesday morning the car successfully made the 500km trip with no problems. So much fun to drive on the highway!!

Do some research on the BOV. There's tons of literature on them - and use the search function at the top of the page here. They're pretty easy to understand and install if you know how they work. You might be ok at 10lbs, but again, use the search function and see what others have had success with. I would consider using an intercooler.

Well I feel like an idiot. I made two gaskets one for the oil inlet manfold and one for the oil drain, but I forgot to install the inlet one and thats where the oil was coming from. Duh. I think I finally solved my leaky oil issues.

Ya I screwed up the drawing. I think they're right beside each other right? Anyways I was just checking to see if the image I have in my head is on the same wavelength of what's being discussed.

Oh ya just a point about the design I forgot in the last post. behind the mounting point for the turbo I assumed that all of the runners would be turning 90degrees and pointing directly into the turbo. Also, Because of the firing order 362415 - and the information given a couple points back that the runners should be joined with another that is as far away as possible in the firing order. so that paired 16 25 and 34.

Just did a quick sketch in autocad to see if what I have in my head is correct as to what we're discussing here. Dimensions are guessed and of course doing the sketch in 2 dimensions doesn't do something with many complicated angles justice. Also, (which may be a little off topic) when designing equal length headers is the "equal length" only take into account the physical distance the exhaust has to travel or is an equivalent length calculated for each runner based on the pressure loss due to bends and curves? I might be way out to lunch with my train of thought here. My only experience with something like this is mine ventilation and not with exhaust design.

I was having issues with oil being pushed through the seals and into the exhaust. I hooked up the PCV valve like this: Crankcase vent ========PCV valve in intake manifold and added the diy weld and drill oil restrictor you described in the first post in this thread. (and broke 4 bits in the process). It stopped the oil from going through the turbo seals, but now its coming through the banjo bolt. ie. pressure is too high before the banjo bolt. I'm using old copper washers so I'm going to try changing them first but if that doesn't work I guess I'll have to add a second resistor before the banjo. Also, what is an appropriate oil pressure? How high is too high? The upper limit I see for oil pressure is approximately 75-80 psi

As soon as I get this engine running well on Megasquirt then its on to the brakes and suspension. Brakes Right now I'm thinking the stage 3 kit from SilverMineMotors for the front, and still undecided with the rear. + Upgrade master cylinder and add a proportion valve As far as suspension goes: 1) strut tower bars front and rear 2) sway bars front and rear 3) new bushings all around 4) shocks and coilovers Driveline R200 LSD CV conversion Interior I have seats from a 240sx which I am going to put in this summer I would like to do the 240sx interior swap I've seen, but it will be a while before i get around to something like that

This past winter I built a megasquirt ecu (MS1 V3.0 running MSnS extra 29y4), Installed a T3/T04e turbo, installed and plumbed an intercooler, pallnet fuel rail, Supra turbo injectors, HKS blow off valve and built a wiring harness to run the megasquirt. Again things are very messy, they are in progress pictures. I really need to change that manifold.

Last winter I rebuilt a junkyard L28ET and ran it in its stock form for the season. I also painted that ugly engine bay. This is right after I got it running. Theres some messy wires and stuff.

When I first started driving the car it had the L26. It had an E31 head with a cam and bigger valves. It also ran headers and tripple webber carbs we found on an old abandoned 240. Not a big fan of the original gold colored paint under the hood.

The car was finished around 2002 and didn't do much until I convinced my dad he should let me drive it when I finished my first year of university. I had sold my car in September to pay tuition and needed a car to get to my summer job. This was in 2005. I took these pictures in the fall of 2005 in front of my frat house

Well I thought it was about time to post a quick write -up of my project. My dad bought the car used in 77 after he crashed his 240. Then in 99 we started to redo the body.

The only thing better than watching the flames lose in game 7 would have been watching them lose it at home. Hopefully the sharks come out to play tonight.

touche

Impact wrench will make short work of the job

I've never thought of using a chain. I'm going to try that next time. I usually end up just wedging a large flat screwdriver between the floorpan and exhaust or something and holding it with one hand while I turn the wrench with the other. Usually if I swear at it enough it works.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=12061&group_ID=1619&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog Or brace a flat screwdriver between a couple cogs and something stiff