yellowoctupus

Old school cool with the Clevor. I thought about it on my Mustang, but figured they'd hurt my tight engine bay worse than the stock heads do already. I didn't realize Edelbrock was making a manifold for the old Cleveland heads. What's the advantage of the Cleveland heads over say the GT40's?

Yeah, the whole 'no replacement for displacement' is the first kick in the shins for a 302 vs 351. Similar mods to either engine will get you similar gains %wise. I do however believe it's a better swap in engine if for no other reason besides you can tuck it right against the firewall without having to dink around with hood latch relocation work etc. That and when you say you have a V8 Z EVERYONE assumes it's a Chevy, so it's nice to be able to surprise them.

Yeah, it's weird that the link above didn't work. Brian's site's still there, and so are his prints! http://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion-files/240Z_Conversion_Prints.htm http://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion-files/240Z_Conversion_Prints.htm For some reason when I insert the link as a hyperlink on the forum, it redirects to some bogus site, when it's just pasted in as text, it recognizes it's a hyperlink and takes you to the right place.....

FYI to me: Wilwood PN's for the o-rings. If replacements are purchased from McMaster Carr etc, they should be EPDM. (Glycol, DOT brake fluid compatible). 210-1330 small: SAE dash number = 210-1328 large: SAE dash number = After years of rebuilding my old ( and definitely worn out) slave cylinder, I finally broke down and paid $80 for a new unit. Two weeks later, all the fluid's gone again. I'm hoping it just had old seals and they went bad. Wilwood sent me another set of o-rings, but I'm still not real pleased about this.

Ha ha, YES! I'm glad I'm not the only one this happened to. I don't think I had my louvers on yet, but I have a set on now. (No noticeable difference.) An interesting thing I found out last year is that if you keep your hatch open about 6" you will get air from the back of the car to flow forwards and out the front windows. I thought it it was a low pressure zone above/behind the hatch that it would draw air from the front windows, and flow out the back, but apparently there's still MORE low pressure by the front windows (coming off the windshield/front of the car). I don't have fume issues but it was weird to drive on the highway, have the windows and rear hatch open and have no perceptible air movement inside the car. The flow is low, but enough to create a high pressure pocket inside the car. You can put your hand 2-3" past the windows before you feel any turbulence again.

Why do you want the motor centered? I have mine about 1" offset to the passenger side and it's still REALLY tight getting the oil filter out.

I don't see why not. I didn't have a tubular xmember, but that would have saved some weight for sure.

I'm totally digging the intake build man! I'm planning on building an intake for my Mustang sometime soon, and love to see the ideas come together on serious homemade stuff like this. Thanks for posting pictures!

Neat. Where did you get your tubing from?

I know there's lots of info out on the net about making your own driveshaft so I thought I'd organize my go to links here. Depending on what you've got for parts and what tools you've got available a DIY driveshaft might be a good option. This should be your freakin' BIBLE when doing any driveline work: Dana Spicer Installation Manual Here's some links below that give some torque ratings and dimensions of different joints and just interesting reading: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1006or-universal-joint-cv-joint-transferring-torgue/ http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/HTML%20measure/UJ%20ID%20Guide.html http://mad4wd.com/blog/?p=18 http://www.wallaceracing.com/driveshaftspeed.htm http://www.rockcharger.com/tech/partnumbers.html http://www.pssupply.com/ratingsp.html http://www.drive-lines.com/dana/tranny_applications.php?model=Ford http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/summer2008/ujoints.htm And one of the most concise DIY builds: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/transmission-articles/493751-how-shorten-your-driveshaft.html#post1556196 Everybody seems to do steel, but if you have a tig welder, well, why not do an aluminum one? They're on Trucks, Explorers, Aerostars etc. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/4361425-post57.html And, if you have yoke problems, remember you can always take material off, but it's a bi*ch to put back on!

Yup, I can agree with that. Brought up lots of times. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/61000-ford-v8-conversion-writeup/ It's the first post pinned to the top of this forum. Read it. Read Brian Laines website too. I have a 4.6 in mine with a dual fan (Escort) with a stock 280z radiator, it always keeps the temp right around 200. Cold, hot whatever.

Keep them pictures coming! I love seeing other hardcore fab guys making stuff. Gets the ol' noggin going.

I have an older Craftsman Professional 1/4" Die Grinder that I got when my grandfather passed away, it's stronger than my air die grinder I'd say. Not sure it has the same top end RPM though... It might be something you could find reasonably priced on evilbay?

Yeah, I'm kinda wondering how Wilwood would know the stroke you have on an old Z car at the pedal vs. what you need at the clutch arm. If I can find them, I'll put up a picture of the excel sheet I used to figure out the right master cylinder / slave cylinder arrangement. (EDIT, Found it. ) I think you'll run out of travel at your master cylinder early based on my measurements on this post: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97812-460zgt-project-build/?p=983253 Master Cylinder "Determiner" Inputs 0.750 Pull piston diameter 1.400 Pull piston travel 0.750 Master cyl piston diam Outputs Master Cyl Travel 1.400 0.619 Volume (in3) Master Cylinder "Determiner" Inputs 0.750 Pull piston diameter 1.400 Pull piston travel 0.875 Master cyl piston diam Outputs Master Cyl Travel 1.029 0.619 Volume (in3) Master Cylinder "Determiner" Inputs 0.750 Pull piston diameter 1.400 Pull piston travel 1.000 Master cyl piston diam Outputs Master Cyl Travel 0.788 0.619 Volume (in3) SORRY about the crap format. Apparently this forum style doesn't like direct copy paste from Microsoft programs.... I just used the stock fuel lines. Literally, I don't think I even changed the fuel line length! I used the stock Z fuel filter and mounted it near where the battery tray is. I don't think I have a recent picture of that setup and how I mounted my MAF/ airfilter either. Why are you running a surge tank? To put a higher volume pump in? I'm not sure what the stock pump is rated for (gph at 36psi) but I seem to remember looking into it and realizing I would be fine.

Most excellent work so far. I'm guessing this is your write-up: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/54796-1974-260z-46dohc/ Couple of things to note, the Mark 8 headers are nice because you can 'work' (cut/weld) them for better exit angles to get around frame rails, steering and what not. Wish I had that option when I dealt with exhaust and my stupid cast manifolds. Make sure you have the master cylinder you need for that stroke. I know the wilwood slave only comes in one size; I had to run a 1" master cylinder to get the full stroke out of the slave after I put in a new clutch. A 3/4" MC would probably work with a worn clutch though, so be careful (especially if you can still return the 3/4" one...).

Cool another convert! Where are you on your swap? You realize that now YOU have to start putting up pics too The gauges took me too long to put in because I'm kinda anal. I trimmed down a bit of the speedo/tach pod to get things right, and they work pretty good now. I think I could have used two speedo pods and then the back lights would have been easier to work with, but I didn't want to chop up too many sets of gauges. Seeing how little they cost me, it really wouldn't matter, but oh well. They do work pretty well.

I'd guess about 600#. If I'm doing something that requires a truck, I'll grab my truck.

Great progress Ray. Are you planning on making some sort of jig to keep things square when you go to tack it together? I wouldn't imagine lining it up spot weld to spot weld would be good enough, and you'd need a really flat floor to get it to be a trusted line up datum. Any ideas? I like how your lift has a big label that says "LIFT" on it. Just in case you couldn't figure it out on your own.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106433-trailer-hitches/ I added additional bracing to the last pictures on this thread (from 2012) because I could flex the 'big bumper' quite a bit by standing on the trailer ball. The new bracing went from the bottom of the receiver weldment to the trunk, between the rear valence and the spare tire well. It did wonders for stiffening it all up. I've towed a 6x8 trailer with it, but I normally use it for my receiver mount bike rack. I also slid a thin sheet of nylon reinforced rubber between the bumper and the hitch so it wouldn't rust from the two pieces of metal touching and beating up the chrome. So far so good.

You'll need more than just that one skinny guy pushing that Z around. I mean, downhill might be ok, but you'll totally get stuck trying to get into parking lots and stuff.

Minor update, been driving the car between 140-80mi/day depending on my mood, and I'm getting 24+mpg. Might have to find some bigger tires/different rear end gears to get some better mileage. Not bad for a V8, but I think it can be a bit better ~27? So, this is my radio control; it has an input (on top) output (going to the black wire, then right to the amp) and now a volume knob, so you don't have to fish around for the Mp3 player, walkman whatever that's the input to adjust the volume. The switch is the power switch to the amp so it's not just ON when you don't want to be jammin' :

Glad to see some action over here in tall tire land! I'm turning 2500rpm at 75mph, which is a little bit high for my likes for 140mi a day. I think the stock '96 Mustang GT (what my engine/trans came out of ) would be turning 2100 - 2200rpm at the same speed. I'm only getting 24mpg currently and want to see if I can squeeze something in the high 20's out. I rarely use 1st gear now anyways, except for starting on a hill, so I'm not seeing it being terribly detrimental from a performance standpoint. I like the tires on your purple turd, Zfan1. They really fill the wheel wells well. (sounds Iike I've got a speech impediment when I say that sentence aloud. ) I had a purple 65 Econoline van. What a great car color.

Just finished up the ultimate brake upgrade-- hydroboost! http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111776-hydrobooster-application/

I pronounce this project a SUCCESS! I finished up the hoses, got a new belt (Napa 060604 13/16" 6 rib serpentine belt, 60 7/8" circumference) and topped it off with some ATF and after I pumped the brakes a dozen times while refilling the reservoir, (to fill all the lines, and the booster itself) a test drive almost put me through the windshield. Ha, no not quite, but they're probably the best brakes I've driven a car with. Super bite with very little driver pressure. I think the project total came to just under a $100, as the booster/master cylinder with three hydraulic lines came up to $65, and the new belt ran me almost $30, and it took almost a quart of ATF. That's cheaper than a rebuilt master cylinder!!! And, it had WAY more power. Since it was going to take about a week for the stock 96 Mustang hi pressure line to come in, I just made a braided one out of some random 3/8 line I had in the garage and some -6 JIC fittings. I'm pretty sure the stock Mustang line would have also worked, had the jerk who removed it not broken the end off. Admittedly though, it is really hard to get that high pressure line off the bottom of the pump. I heated up and bent a wrench to turn the fitting. Wish I had done that before going junkyarding. I think it took me 20mins to take off one fitting there. If you braize up your own fittings like I did, put the other end into a tin can full of water, it keeps it nice and cool, so it won't cook the o-ring that's in the Ford swivel. Ford power steering hoses have a peculiar sealing method which uses a 1 time use teflon washer to seal the fitting to the port. Since NO-ONE in town had them in stock, the guy at Napa found some really thin copper crush washers which actually worked perfectly. And they're $ 0.75 apiece, not $4. I was skeptical, but they're so tight on the fittings that they're difficult to 'thread' on. Napa P/N 1246. Not a drop out of any of the connections (qty 4 in my assembly).

Since I haven't had power brakes in this car for almost 5 yrs, I'm going to have to be super careful once this is all installed. Even driving my buddy's 240z with vacuum power brakes I slammed myself into the seatbelts just going down his driveway! I'm a little surprised I couldn't find anybody else on Hybridz that had done this yet; plenty of guys over at the factory five forums have however, which is where I got some of those diagrams posted earlier.