Atozone Tonine

Does anyone know if Champion radiator caps come in different sizes? The seal on my cap is broken, so I want to get a replacement, but I can't find an OEM replacement. I have seen caps on Ebay that say they fit Champion rads, but don't specify a size or PSI.

Thanks everyone. Very helpful.

Does anyone know the difference between Back Hatch Seal and Deck Lid Seal? They look the same to me, but one is $6 per foot, and the other is $12 per foot. http://www.metrommp.com/ > Online Catalogue > 1971 > Nissan > 240z (I cannot copy the address) Thanks.

Awesome Video.

I know this topic has already been covered... but i didnt see anything that answered my question: I want to change my brake, turn signal and rear running lights to LEDs ... can these lights be wired directly into the existing system as is? or do they need a low voltage transformer? I wont be doing the work myself, but I want to buy all the parts. FYI - the reason im thinking about switching to LEDs is that Im rewiring the car anyways, and also missing some of the bullb sockets/harnesses... and not concerned with keeping the car original.

i will try that. thanks.

dry ice on the tar? how do you do that? have been using a 2" metal scraper.. gently hammering it under the tar layer and popping it up... works well in most places... but leaves a lot of small remnants. It began with the intention of a thorough cleaning of my "rust free car" now the entire interior is removed and there is a 1" hole in the passenger side foot well area. I guess that's not too bad. The thing I learned from my experience (still on-going) is - don't bother to remove the surface rust unless you will prime it or treat it within 24 hours... or you will have to do it again.

Im making some CAD drawings of the heater control panel and the transmission tunnel to locate the bolt holes for a custom center console. Just wondering if anyone has already done this. thanks.

yes, its for the brake booster. thanks.

The Check valve has an "<-- E" symbol on it. Should I assume this means the arrow should point towards the engine? thanks.

Looking for a brake pedal for an automatic 1971 240z Series II (the metal part and the rubber part) Prefer local pick up in LA area if possible thanks!

On my louvers, the bolt holes are 1/4" in diameter, and the center of the holes is 1/2" off the deck lid. I'm looking for a suitable bracket now...

It could be something like this: My link If the bracket was fastened on the inside of the louver, it would be more low profile. but we need to be sure about a) size of hole for the bolt and height of connection from the body - you want the louvers to sit tight on body (with rubber weather stripping) Also, I was thinking about putting a bit of rust inhibitor paint on the inside of the drilled holes on the body, then a dab of silicon before tightening. This would hopefully make them rust and weather proof.

I have the same problem - looking for the lower mounts.

Thanks for your help. Sorry for the late reply, but I have been trying to figure this out all weekend. It is difficult to see the fuel pump (I don't have a jack at home yet), but as far as I can tell, it is the black wire that is connected, not the green wire for some reason. I see a green wire just hanging there, not attached to anything. Is it possible to reverse these and the pump would still work?? I will have the car on a lift this week for other reasons, so I can verify the wiring from the pump. As for where to connect in the front, The diagram says that there is a black wire coming from the fuse box (if I am reading it correctly) but I don't see any black wires. It is currently connected to a blue wire which seems to be working. Anyways, the other electrical issues I have are: the aftermarket ignition switch gets almost too hot to touch when I drive for more than 30-40 mins, so I'm a bit concerned about that my headlights, turn signals (on the dash) and brake lights just stopped working for some reason although my rear running lights are working. I will keep you updated on the progress.

Recently bought my 9/71 240z and trying to clean up the mess of spliced wires, I somehow disconnected the fuel pump wire and don't know where to reconnect it. Im looking at the wiring diagram, and don't understand why it says B (Black wire), then it is also labeled as G (Green wire) closer to a 20amp fuse The wire from the fuel pump is black. Do I also need to put a fuse in the line somewhere? I attached the PDF - the diagram is on page 6. In the meantime, I found a couple wires that work, and am using one of them now to get power. I'm not sure how bad of an idea this is. FYI - i don't have a heater, AC, lighter, stereo... so I have several open connectors. thanks for your help!

I have the same louvers as in this photo... but I'm missing the hardware that fastens it at the bottom. Any Idea where I can get these little brackets?

I was wondering when he was going to do a video on the S30. Although I wish he talked more about the ZG and the different model specs. Im not sure he understood much about it.

good to know. ill try it for a bit and see what happens. I think its just a $25 fix-it ticket anyways. Also I heard you cant get a ticket for running a red if you dont have the front plate (some areas still have the cams).. so the risk of getting a fix-it ticket might be worth it to avoid a more costly ticket

..of course if i just want something to show the cops, I can get Geico for $38/month and who knows about actual coverage.

Well, I was afraid that in the event of an accident, the insurance company would refuse to cover me if they discovered that my car had been modified. I was able to get quotes from State Farm and AAA - both did not care that it had any modifications. Very reasonable too... AAA was only $55 x 6 payments for 1 year coverage (for the state minimum of liability coverage. State Farm was $60/ month for more than the state minimum or $80/month for both liability and comprehensive .. so i am relieved about that.

If I wanted to leave the bumper off, or cut out the middle section, does anyone offer a grille that wouldfit the double-high opening? I have seen custom ones, and I really like the 'big mouth'look.

I bought a 1971 240z with no front valence, air dam, or bumper. looking at my air dam options... I like the look of the air dam with no holes in the front. type 1 The DMVhere in California says I need to have a front license plate.. not sure where to put it. so I was looking at this one: with place for license plate but isn't the urethane one more durable? my car is very low, and I suspect the last one was damaged. urethane air dam does anyone have pics of the one with the place for a license plate actually on their car?

looks good. I like the way the lines flow smoothly from the wheel arches.

I was just told by Geico that they cannot insure my 240z with a chevy small block because it is likely to be used as a race car... so im still searching for something reasonable...