yo2001

Well this is why I was wandering. I think this is little conservative. With 85% VE all the way. 3500, 4000, 5000, 6000rpm are the points. Just looks like the turbo is too big. But my HP # doesn't seem to be too low.

Check here, I'm sure there is a better exponation than what I can tell you. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24042

T3/T4 hybrid is T04B or E compressor housing pls T04B or E wheel mated with T3 turbine housing and T3 turbine wheel

o, what I mean was when I nail th egas, it's tach up real fast like having a 3000rpm stall converter.

Straight T04E won't bolt up to a stock manifold, it's got different flange. But you can weld in a T4 flange and some spacer...

21lb is like stock I believe. And turbo flywheel is no different than any other 240mm flywheel. Cool thing about Fidanza is it's both 225mm and 240mm so any clutch, turbo, N/A 2+2 will bolt up. A matter of fact, my clutch is for 300zx. I really have almost no lag due with 3.90 and 11lb flywheel (I know it's not the best gear set) It's almost like driving an automatic with 3000rpm stall. You got 3 inch downpipe? I know that helps. and smaller, shorter diameter IC pipes/

I'm runnign Exedy organic disk and 400lb pressure plate. aka ACT with Fidanza 11lb flywheel (close J. ) It has been holding ok. I have had chatters after slipping the clutch to built boost off line (Well, doh) but it's still in there and doesn't slip WOT. Problem with 11 lb flywheel and 3.90 in turbo car is keeping the darn thing out of rev limiter. I've gained more than .7 sec by keeping it out of rev limiter.

Old.

Like this?

O, yeah. Then I don't know why my stock injectors flow much more than 250HP. Ran 253RWHP with stock injectors at 44psi. never went pass 12:1, and actually rich at 6000rpm.

13.3 with 1.9 60ft. I think it was. 60ft is the key. You prollt making about 200RWHP. give and take 5RWHP

Good fuel pump does the trick. I run Autozone injectors and model unknow Walbro pump. The stock injector will sopport more than 250HP due to rising fuel pressure via boost. so 265 injector @ 36 psi will be 36psi plus 10 psi of boost under WOT. stock pressure and 10psi on Z31, mine went below 10:1 un certain spots on dyno.

That aint stock Nice number. Good powerband too.

air!? so if you don't have enough air, the compressor is less effiecient right ? not because there are too much heat.

I've been thinking. (O, nooo ) I was looking about a compressor effeciency map and came up with a question. You know the map looks like weather map with most effecient range in the center. I know you can create more heat when your cfm/psi is right of the center or top of the center of the map. But how about on the left side of the center? The effeciency is lower but is the heat also greater then? If heat isn't higher, then why is it less effiecient? not enough CFM? I'm hurting for an answer.

I've broke one before. I hit a big dip on th eroad and next thing you know, the car was like jello going around turn.

it's not a AFC but AFR. http://search.ebay.com/ws/search/SaleSearch?sokeywordredirect=1&ht=1&sosortproperty=1&satitle=hks&from=R8&sacategory=33594&catref=C1

What kind of car was the Toyota? Yap, I need an AWD.

9:1 compression that's where his power is coming from. 8) I think that's about equivalent of running 7.8:1 at 12 psi.

Stock LT1 won't touch 300RHP. Plus V8 swap need a transmission also. L28ET doesn't, so it's about same or in my case, less than V8 swap

Z31 ECU is good for 250RHP

No, I don't have one. But I would love to see some pictures and things.

I was shifting my stock L28 bottom at 7200rpm via factory tach, Now I found out my factory tach is off by 300-400rpm under so who knows, it could have been 7500-7600rpm. I finally did span a rod bearing though.

I'm all for tunabitily and dyno. It's not worth taking wild guesses. IMO

It's not as user friendly as AFC is but it does more for sure. May be I'll hoo mine back and dyno again.