yo2001

You are suppose to change the turbine wheel on the turbo when you are going to a hybrid turbo to keep the back pressure before the turbine lower. However I guess good example is some of the mitsu turbos from 16G's from small 16G, big 16G to EVO3. exact turbine setup but EVO3 can flow about 10lb/min more due to size and design of the wheel. So using lb/min furmula, would it not increase the VE on EVO3 16G than small 16G? May be I'm thinking too much about other efficiency.

I think main problem going with earlier Z31 ECCS is you won't have the EPROM. But I did have a L28ET(really was L26ET) running on Z31 ECU with no problem. made 256RHP on stock injectors. IT was my daily had no problem. Don't know about 400HP with stock MAF but I have seen close to that and more on JWT setup. Also can't knock on MS either. Loosescrew can help you get you going on MS since he has done it before. L6 is where is at

Doesn't VE differ from different setup or different engine?

With a nickle fill rod or nickle rods for stick welder then you can weld it. I would take the turbine hsouing off first.

I doubt there is anything more you can do other than what you have done. You can restrict the flow of DP which will help but you'll lose power. Or you can always run more boost.

I don't know why Ptrim in T housing is so bad, I've done it and I know others have done this before. Garrett still sales Stage V wheel in the t3 housing which is not much smaller than Ptrim. Anyhow if you are going to different route, I would suggest 61mm GT35R wheel which is a gt40 wheel. Good power and not laggy which you use it with a stage V wheel. 600HP posible on race gas.

flows 60lb/min so I don't see a problem getting 400RWHP.

There are two ways to balance the turbos, component balance and dynamic balance. There is a way to rebuild a dynamic balanced turbo using a marker but most of the time I've touched a trbo, it's component balanced so no need to worry about the dyamic once its assembled. Anyway, I don't recommend doing the DIY rebuild unless you have the glass bead booth, good cleaning booth, micrometer and other gauges to check all the clearance. 0.002" off can make the turbo smoke or not long lasting. Plus, with alot of lateral movement due to failure on the trust bearing can cause alot of blueing around the rear seal which makes the turbo leak. Without doing it right, you will end up dragging carbon deposit back into the CHRA causing further damage to the bearing and its surface.

sounds like a rare to TS04/T58. Good wheel IMO. The inducer and exducer is opposite on the compressor side, so 58mm inducer and 84mm exducer.

You won't be able to buy a turbine housing that'll fit that turbine wheel. You would have to have a machine shop (turbo shop) lathe the housing to fit that wheel. I would be incline to know the compressor wheel size as well, it might not be even worth the money to use that turbo if the compressor wheel is too small or ineffcient. Measuring the wheel is easy, just take the housing and measure the base and the tip to tip on the wheel. 6 blade is more preferable than 7 blade imo. newer design.

yes

sounds close enough to be a ptrim. your exducer and inducer is flipped backward but a standard ptrim is 74.xmm inducer and 64.5xmm exducer.

I would like to add, the WB must face downward so the water/condensation won't build. 10-2 oclock position is good

You have to cover the bearing surface on the turbine shaft and the CHRA if you are going to sandblast which you should. Then you have to mic all the spec, ID, OD of bearing, CHRA and the shaft.

what kind of plugs? and gaps? I assume BPR7ES at .02x"? I know MSD has a dwell control which can do stuff wierd. I think the signal going into MSD has to have small charge time or it'll overload on dwell cause the coil or ignitor to run hot. Heat sinking the ignitor suppose to help. Anyhow I would takeout the MSD and see if the problem goes way.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/HaltechSupport/ Most helpful. Eastest way to go about it is to get a base map from someone and start from there.

Yes, apearantly, the BB retainer inside really doesn't like the heat. Well, that was my assumption of why mine blow up but coulds have been a small trash going into the CHRA even with a pre filter in place. I'm not upset of anything. The turbo was a proto type and I didn't pay for it anyway. But the turbo was put to hell. I let it surge with no BOV, antilag and all sort of bad things.

about 3000 miles and 25 or so dyno pulls. 20-22psi on daily bases. Antilag@20psi>BB turbo.

This car is on Felpro HG. FYI. 292 was made on 90deg+ day. On my dyno sheet, I think amb. temp was 96deg. I was impressed.

BB CHRA is more prone to failure if you are not using an inline oil filter before the turbo. Not real forgiving when it comes to an oil contamination. Are you talking about Dual Ball Bearing off Garrett? or any ball bearings? Some IHI OEM turbos are BB front bearing. They seems fine for a very long time.

gt35 and gt35R is different. GT35R is pretty big. it's 61mm inducer. Moostly improper size(too small) turbine housing or oversize compresor will cause this. Or inefficient engine rpm like 5th gear 3000rpm going up hill where load is high but VE is low.

That happends when your turbo is making more airflow than what the engine can take in. Sort of like backed up drain.

FAST system is pretty nice. I've only heard good things about them.

if do go Haltech E6x, make sure you get the new version II. I heard the original one had problems. HKS got locked ECU can't be tuned without an athourize dealer or have someone who knows how to unlocked it. Motec is crazy high$$$. I persnally have Haltech E6K and pretty happy with it. Old school but once you get use to the DOS base software, it's easy to tune