Xnke

The distance from the front edge of the bellhousing to the bolt holes on the transmission for the rubber mount is just a hair over 23". I don't have a stock 5-speed here to measure right now, but I can tell you the shifter assembly will come up in the stock location, and the transmission is VERY close to the stock length from tailshaft to engine block. If you can find the correct slip yoke with the proper spline count and diameter on one side and the OEM U-joint on the other, you shouldn't have to get a driveshaft made! Although I think if you have the stock driveshaft, 1973-74 and up have the silly non-replacable U-joints...So a stock-length driveshaft will have to do. Still hunting the speedo drive cog, I have the trans ready to accept it, just need to get it and the proper c-clips and ball bearing.

There are a number of the threads you speak of, and yes, the 350Z pressure plate will bolt on to a Z 240mm flywheel. It will NOT fit the 225mm flywheel. The new site's search feature isn't nearly as good as the old site's search feature, but Google still pulls up lots of threads on clutch selection here.

Not sure if I need to post this in For Sale or the Vendors forum, so here it is in the Vendors Forum. I can convert the bellhousings on the S15 6-speed manual transmission, AKA Nissan FS6R92 or Aisin Automotive "Model AZ6", to fit the L-series or KA series engines, and use standard L/KA clutch assemblies. This transmission works out to be 31.5" long from the end of the tailshaft to the front face of the bellhousing after the bellhousing is converted, and the transmission mount is 23" from the front face of the bellhousing after the conversion. You will need a different, larger, slip yoke to fit this transmission. Stock transmission is 1" diameter, 24 spline, and the S15 transmission is a 1.088" diameter, 24 spline. (unless I just counted the splines wrong again, I may have to update this post.) This transmission gets a bad rap as being a weak box...which simply isn't the case. At sustained torque levels of 350+ft-lbs, OR heavy shock loading due to a grabby solid hub clutch and sticky tires, this transmission in unmodified condition can snap the circlip that retains the 4th countershaft gear, allowing it to crash into the reverse gear assembly. This generally tears the box up pretty bad. This can be limited by having the circlip modification performed by a qualified transmission shop, which I am not and I am still looking for a reputable shop with some experience with these transmissions to recommend. That said, for any engine that puts down LESS than 300ft-lbs, you're within the safe zone and this box is a viable option for you. They are readily available from importers and due to the "weaksauce gearbox" rap they are going for a little less money than most other options for a 6-speed behind an L-series engine. The gear ratios are listed below: 3.6 2.2 1.5 1.3 1.0 0.76 This is a nice close ratio box, and is suitable for road racing as a 5-speed by ignoring 1st gear and using it as a dogleg-first gearbox. This means you leave the starting line in 2nd gear, and shift up into 3rd, using 3-4-5-6 in the standard 4-speed pattern to obtain a close approximation of the Nissan Competition close ratio gearbox. If you desire a closer ratio, then there are a 0.892, 0.869, and a 0.862 6th gearsets available. The 0.862 gearset is available via NISMO. To do this conversion, I need the front case from your S15 SR20 6-speed transmission, the front case from your L-series or KA24 transmission, and 375$. I will return to you a modified S15 6-speed front case, ready to be bolted back up to the transmission and fitted behind the engine. This transmission is not terribly easy to remove just the front case from, but it can be done safely as long as you're cautious. I don't mind providing telephone support for the dissassembly process if needed. If you require a mechanical speedometer drive, make sure your S15 transmission is machined for one. NOT ALL OF THEM ARE. The ones that are suitable will have a removable aluminum plug bolted into the usual location for the speedometer drive and the tailshaft will be machined for two circlips and a ball bearing. The tailshaft can be examined through the speedometer drive hole and you can see if the machine work was done or not. I do not have the facilities to re-harden the shaft after machining, so I can not currently convert the non-speedometer drive versions. This transmission does NOT have a drive cog inside on the tailshaft...so it's not just a bolt-it-in-and-go solution. I can machine your 5-speed speedo drive cog to fit, if you send it with your bellhousing. The cost for this is 45$, which includes machining your speedo cog, the ball bearing, and the two circlips to re-install it onto the tailshaft of the transmission. NISMO charges A LOT more for these parts, but the speedo drive cog, ball bearing, and circlips are available from them as well. I am not sure what the current price is. If you are not comfortable dissasembling the transmission, then ship the entire transmission plus your bellhousing and speedometer cog, and I can do the bellhousing conversion for 430$, and the speedometer drive for 45$. It is totally understandable if you don't want to try to break one of these boxes down, as they are VERY tricky to reassemble properly. Very easy to lock them up when it comes time to put the bellhousing on...and then it all has to come apart to get it unlocked. I can be reached by telephone or by PM here on HybridZ, PM me for the phone number please, I won't be posting it on the internet. Here are a few shots of the process; for those who are curious. Pardon the clutter, my shop is now a 12x16 machine shop due to leasing issues. It's a wreck right now from all the parts and concurrent projects running trying to get my Z ready to go to Branson Z fest. Here's a few shots of the process. Cutting the SR20 flange off the front case: Getting the L24 flange bolted to the block, getting ready to align the welding jig: No photos of the welding jig; I spent a lot of time to work out this conversion and I'd rather not just hand it out in a single photo. Starting to weld the two bellhousing sections together along the outside: Finished bellhousing, ready to be scrubbed down and reassembled onto the transmission: (Yes Alex, that's your bellhousing! Any questions, just ask. Everyone knows that 4 speeds is good, but 5 speeds is better...so 6 speeds must be best!

You might be able to use the stock transmission mount, I'll double check. The unmodified transmission would require the crossmember to be moved back 2", just like the FS5W71C transmissions, but I had to cut A LOT out of the bell to get the pilot engagement depth correct. I'll have an answer for you in a few days; but likely the stock mount can be made to work fine.

XTR and F1 racing are both resellers of Autocom clutches. Use the clutch interchange numbers to find out what they really are. Autocom parts are decent quality and are what they claim to be, but are inexpensive as they usually supply the "ebay racing clutch" guys and such. The XTR clutch you linked is a decent clutch; but it does get grabby quick as it warms up from normal driving. The red pressure plate is most likely the older style Z31T turbo pressure plate; 240MM diameter. That said, it will likely hold the power it claims, but it will destroy your transmission at that power level. You do not want a solid hub clutch with a FS5W71B transmission if you're running that kind of power and have any plans to launch the car at the strip or do any kind of drifting. The shock loads from a solid flywheel and a solid hub clutch will not dampen any of the torque impulse to the transmission and will eventually cause failure of the countershaft bearings (smallest bearings usually go first.) That clutch is listed as "06-030 06-031 06-032" which all cross out to be a 300ZX turbo pressure plate. Now, we'll look at F1's offering. It's the same disk, but it's sprung hub this time. This is good. Won't destroy your transmission NEARLY as fast as a solid hub unit would do with the same driving. The pressure plate in the photo is actually a new style plate; as used behind the manual-transmission VQ35 engines. The 350Z heavy-duty plate (which I bet originates from one of the trucks) and an organic disk has been shown to hold 400ft-lbs on a 250mm flywheel and disk. 240mm will hold slightly less, but still should do fine. The pressure plate bolts directly up to the stock L28ET flywheel and will work with the 240mm disk. Now the bad news....the Altima has the same size and style of pressure plate...but it's NOT as strongly sprung and does not hold the same pressures...and it's cheaper. Since F1 doesn't list a clutch interchange number, you might try googling the number they do give to see if you can't hunt up which car that plate belongs on. Also, they may be showing a stock photo...that may not actually be the plate they ship! Almost all of the "high performance clutches" out there for the L28ET are standard offerings for other vehicles, or disks from one vehicle and pressure plates from another. The only difference would be the copper ceramic clutch disks; most are made in china and as long as you check the balance and straightness on them they're all about the same. A LOT of Nissan vehicles use the same 1"-24 spline 240mm disk, and just as many of them used the same 240mm bolt pattern for the pressure plate. If you're looking for new clutch technology, look at the newer cars and start hunting down the specifications for the clutch. I'm going to be using a 350Z HD clutch on an RB20DET flywheel in the next few weeks, will bolt up like stock and should have only a slightly stiffer pedal, with OEM clutch life and drivability. Some people are OK with a clutch that's a pain to drive and has to be changed every other year. Horses for courses, you know. As for AZC's clutch...I haven't talked with Dave about it but from the photos and numbers I've seen off it, and the flywheel that he sells...it's from the same place as many other ebay clutches. He may hold his supplier to a higher standard, or test each clutch to make sure he's getting the same product, but he's got the same stuff many other people are supplying. It's up to you to call him up and ask him about his product, he's plenty willing to talk to anyone who wants to buy something. That said...it is a very nice flywheel, although it can be had much cheaper from other suppliers.

Clutch options don't change as much as you think for 40 year old cars. South bend clutch is selling a 350z pressure plate with a 300zxt 240mm clutch disk as their 390ft-lb option, and any clutch you could use on the KA24DE will work just as well...they claim a heavy duty d21 pickup truck clutch will hold 400ft-lbs behind the KA in a 240sx. In other words, nothing has changed.

It turned out simple enough to cut a deep well 1.5" socket down, and weld a piece of pipe between the two halves. Might come in handy some other time, might not.

Use it as a mock-up block, you know how it's positioned in the car so you can use it for measurements for engine swaps, transmission swaps, ect.

if your SU's aren't staying in tune, check them for leaking throttle shafts and sticking main jets. They're generally a set-and-forget type of carb, once they're setup and synced they stay that way for the next six months till it's time to check and sync them again.

That head is seriously eroded around the loose liner. It'll have to get decked on that face before you can see if it's too pitted to seal up. The liners need to be left in place unless you are just masochistically into cylinder head port work and welding. It is possible to pick up some flow by removing the liners...but it's SERIOUSLY not worth the effort since a linered head in good shape can flow as much as 140CFM per exhaust port, and a squareport head can be gotten up to 155 or so. By removing the liners, it is possible to get the round ports to flow as much or more than the square ports, but it requires a lot of welding deep in a hole by a skilled welder and it just isn't worth the money and time involved. There are a few people who run the linered heads on turbo motors, but as mentioned above, the liners are not able to take that kind of heat and flake off, possibly destroying the turbine. That cam is in not good shape. The chipped area around the dowel pin would have to be welded back, and then the nose of the cam reground to the correct dimensions, and the dowel pin hole would have to be re-machined into the front of the cam. You need to find a different camshaft. The damage looks to be pretty deep...if it's a deceiving photo and the damage isn't more than a few thou deep, then I still wouldn't run the cam...

I used a 1.5" wrench to remove the one on the 4-speed I broke down last night; but I was thinking about the deep socket idea. Probably will make one today.

Nope. since these are either steel or plastic. I DO NOT need the cable drive. Just the drive pinion on the tailshaft. Looks like this one:

I use the ZXT optical distributor, trigger on the falling edge, and trigger angle of 78. I would say you need to setup the VR dizzy following the instructions in the Megamanual, and set the trigger angle about 78, and make sure your advance mechanism is completely locked out.

Just started a month of transmission work, and will be applying the information in this post. It's looking like I will have a bit of time before my jigging material arrives for a customer's transmission, so I'll have another go at rebuilding the "new" 5 speed in the floor. If everything checks out good, then I'll not worry about rebuilding it and just bolt it up, but I'll be adding synchronizer checks into the rebuild requirements. How did you re-torque the mainshaft and countershaft nuts? I've used a big wrench and a carefully selected weight, but surely there's a better way.

Need a speedometer drive pinion and the ball bearing under it from a FS5W71B/C/H transmission tailshaft. Needs to be from a 5-speed. Year does not matter, AFAIK, but the 4-speed transmission drives are machined into the shaft and can not be removed. PM with your price.

3/8" spacer is needed; a 1/4" will work too. Just did the same installation. The problem with using stainless fasteners in exhaust pipes ISN'T that it's "stainless", it's that stainless steel and aluminum don't play well and tend to gall the aluminum threads. Using stainless steel fasteners to bolt the turbo on is fine, as long as you use the correct nuts (don't use anything but stainless or copper-nickle or brass) otherwise you can run into galvanic corrosion issues. (which is why aluminum and stainless steels don't mix well.)

Check the coolant temperature sensors. This car is still fuel injected, right?

Have a paying job coming up again, so next week will be tight on getting the car ready for the show in Branson, but I have a little time this weekend. Remaking the fuel rail this evening, going to be welding the new regulator back on and if things go well...I'll have a little adventure in anodizing. I did it back in high school, but I gave all my stuff away. Might wait till later in the summer and I'll anodize the rail later. Plan is to fit the proper supports into place to keep the belt tensioner from flexing, and run the poly-v belt setup to allow belt slip if something bad happens to the super. This also limits the load on the crank pulley, and gives me more time to machine proper cog-belt drive pulleys, which I might do eventually...if the need arises. This particular super won't need them, as it will push at most 10lbs of boost and that will be pushing it hard. I'll need to fit an M90, which would be tough due to the space allowed, or get a TVS1320 to work with. ($$$$!) The TVS1320 would fit neatly in the same place, displaces 81CI each revolution, meaning a lower overdrive ratio needed to achive the same boost, and it ultimately flows 1300CFM instead of 800...which gives much more headroom and lower drive requirements!

It's unlikely you bent a rod. Trigger angle of 0 would require next-cylinder timing, trigger angle of 60+ allows this-cylinder timing. Trigger angle of 78 is what we use here, on dizzy type cars, and have no problem getting the timing set correctly. You need to set the trigger angle less than 20 or greater than 50 to get things running correctly, and you need to make sure your trigger angle and your this-cylinder/next-cylinder timing is set correctly. Other than that, it's cake.

It is *possible* that it could be fixed. That's a 4 layer board, so it's hard to say what got routed on the two internal layers.

That's a stock gas-fueled pump....someone just bought the cheaper, more available one or the generic parts-store replacement.

Yeah....These motors DO have "lifters" but only the 1983 turbo models got the hydraulic lifter assemblies that DO act like hydraulic lifters and DO go bad. Replacements are not available. Yes, timing chain slap is another problem these engines get when they get old...the two noises are distinct and seperable.

That is characteristic detonation damage. Cylinder 5 runs the hottest in a stock unmodified head, and will detonate first most of the time. Running an engine short on coolant will readily increase the chances of detonation even with stock timing. Get that head checked for warp before you put it back on, it only takes once to warp an aluminum L6 head, although you may get a pass on it.

a little info to help locate some of these... The 4.11 R200 came in the S12 series 2 (84-88) with either the turbo CA18 or the VG30E, the 4.38 R200A came in 4WD Nissan D21 pickups and 720 pickups with the 4.38 C200 in the rear; and I have no clue where a USDM 4.64 ratio would be found. A 5.23 ratio was available in the 4WD trucks too, but is available as a R&P set from Nissan Motorsports currently.

That's a stock, off-the-shelf, Rhinopac Flyhwheel, available for 50$ or so from Rockauto, and a stock replacement pressure plate from Rhinopac, as well. The clutch disk is "carbon kevlar", but the photo shows a stock organic disk... Use the clutch interchange numbers to find out what the clutch actually is. In this case, it's 06-038...which references a stock replacement clutch for a KA24DE powered Nissan D21 pickup truck. This is the "white bunny" clutch that people go on about on the 240SX forums.