Xnke

The pathfinder got different front axles from 1993+. I couldn't find a 1990-1992 pathy in the yard. The CV asplosion I had was caused by running a .625" spacer. I did not have enough plunge travel left, and it yanked the inner race out of the outer cup, forcing itself past the wire retaining clip in the outer cup, and the approx 1/4" of bearing surface was just not enough to cope with the power. It allowed the inner ball race, cage, and balls to spin in the outer cup, and hammered out a nice smooth ring. the wire retaining ring will no longer stay put. There are no cracks or other damage to the outer race, and after installing the new thicker spacer, the already damaged CV is holding up fine. I still have a replacement on the way. The 1.6" thickness was determined by compressing the CV shaft fully, measuring the distance from the CV mounting flange to the companion flange, and then subtracting 1/4". At full droop, the shaft is at its shortest, so leaving 1/4" gap at full droop would ensure that the shafts are never too long, and also that the shafts are never too short, since there is 1.25" of travel in the joint and the required travel is only about .375".

Alright. So, RedZedTurbo bought the car ( a 1983 ZX turbo) with crummy brakes, and we've been trying to figure them out ever since. New front calipers, rotors, and pads New rear rotors and pads; calipers are fine. cleaned up sliders and pins and regreased. New 1983 ZX master cylinder. Bled all the brakes; no air in lines best we can tell. Pedal feels good. Brake Booster holds vacuum perfectly fine; check valve is working properly. Have ZERO power assist; and it's like doing leg presses to get the car to stop. BUT, if you get your foot into it, the car will stop fine, just really requires a scotsman's leg. Disconnecting the vacuum line to the booster and plugging the manifold (to prevent the vacuum leak) changes absolutely nothing. It feels exactly the same with and without the vacuum hooked up to the booster. BUT the booster will hold a solid vacuum for 10-15 minutes with no trouble. No hissing, no RPM changes, nothing to indicate a leaky booster. Also, when you DO get on it hard enough to lock a wheel, the rear wheels will lock first. The front brakes are NOT doing the job...after a series of hard stops to get the brakes hot, the front rotors are touchable, wheras you can't even get your hand past the wheel on the rears. If you sit down with the wheel off and have someone push on the pedal, you DO see the pistons in the calipers move up front, and there are wear marks on the rotors, but they are pretty light. You can still see the OEM finish on one of the rotors, as if the pads aren't even touching the rotor, on parts of the rotor. What do I look at next, guys?

I didn't take any photos of the damage, I just a spare cage in it and put it back together to get me back to the house; I was 45 minutes away at a friends garage the day it happened. I'll take some photos when the new axle gets here and I take it apart again to put the new one in. BTW, I used a 1993 pathfinder driver's side center shaft, and needed a 1.6" thick spacer to make it fit on the driver's side of the car, with the welded adaptors I made. On the passenger side, I used a driver's side 300ZX center shaft and had no problems putting it together.

My car does that, and does it MUCH more so now that I am not running a glasspack in the tunnel. I didn't notice it with the stock manifold, first picked up on it with the old MSA header I had, with glasspack in the tunnel and turbo style muffler out back, now it's RIGHT THERE with the new Stahl weld-up header and chambered muffler out back. VROOOOOMMMmmuummmmmmmmmumumummm is the sound I get now, rev/decel. I love it.

So, first mishap with my 300ZXT axle swap yesterday. I was rough on the car out in the bean fields and cow pastures, a 4K launch pulling to 6800, then shift to 2nd, chirpBLAMrapraprapraprapraprap. WTF? I thought the Z31T CV's were supposed to be pretty bombproof for non-turbo cars? The actual damage was confined to shattering the CV cage, tearing the boot, and mangling the outer CV case a smidge. Replacing the cage, refitting the bearings, and cleaning up the outer case meant I could put the joint back together, but the retaining wire won't stay clipped into it's groove very well anymore... You guys think I can put the thing back together and it'll get me home?

First off. WHAT THE *HELL* IS WITH THE WHOLE "IT CAN'T PASS EMMISIONS" THING? Did you ever stop and think that any properly tuned car will pass an emissions test out the tailpipe? If it flunks on NOx, chamber temps are too high...too lean or too much timing, or both. If it flunks on HC, chamber temps are too low...too rich or misfiring. Not usually a timing problem. If it flunks on CO, chamber temps are average...but it's still too rich. Could be not enough timing. If "any kind of stroker" with a cam is tuned correctly, you CAN pass emissions testing. If the cam has crappy idle vacuum, then you'll be rich at idle to fill in a dead spot. The proper solution isn't to set your VE tables rich, or set your carb idle jet rich, it's to set it stoich or a smidge leaner, and then compensate with a bigger acceleration enrichment.

Yes, they are specially marked needles. I used some bluing compound to colour the needles and scribed them every .010" to tell me when and where I needed to change what in which direction. Then I went FI.

Thanks for the offer, I ended up fiddling around and machined the flange I had to fit.

Hey guys, I'm swapping to the R200 in my '72, and need the late 280Z pattern (77-78, I think) R200 input flange. My R180 flange won't fit the R200 diff, and my R200 flange won't fit my R180 driveshaft because I got my diff from a 300ZX. Anyone have one?

Guys....I'm driving the car now with a bored/ported/injected/cammed/headered L28. I get upwards of 29MPG combined with responsible driving, and can sink that to about 10MPG driving like a mo-tard. It put out enough torque to break two u-joints before breaking an R180 spider gear, and I run it on 87 all day long, with 9.7:1 compression and a full 36 degrees of advance. I experience ZERO pinging, and the cam pulls from about 2400RPM up. Rev limiter is set at 7200, and the car has seen it daily for 7 months with zero engine issues.

It will likely be a bolt-in stub axle, and if you use the stock 240Z axles and bolt-in stubs will probably work fine. IF it uses clip-in axles, I.E. you can look straight through the diff from axle hole to axle hole, OR you can look into the axle holes and see the circlip, than you can use the axles I've got listed in the classifieds, or try using the axles from an 81-85 maxima...but the maxima axles will probably be too long. Probably.

So I got the clock working again after changing a few electrolytic caps in the power supply board. Now, the clock will let you put it in set mode, and you can set the hours...but then you can't get it to hold that setting while you set the minutes, or vice versa. Same with the stopwatch or lap timer. If I wait till midnight and reset the time on the clock, it keeps perfect time. But I just can't set the clock or use any of the functions, without wiping out the time or whatever I've got on the display. Anyone know how to set this damn thing??? Not even Google helped me this time.

You need to let the car warm up, and set the idle while the car is at operating temperature. Then you need to get out your haynes manual or your FSM and read up on the thermovalve that's on top the intake manifold...looks like some kind of pump but it's just a warmup valve. Make sure it's working, or you will have to use your foot to get the car started...which isn't too difficult.

All the L-series motors have that hole in the rod. Even the L24's, which never came factory turbocharged. It's all there for the same reason.

How about you pull the dizzy and set the engine to top dead center, and check the shaft timing? I would bet it's a tooth off. I just fought this exact same problem, and that's what was wrong.

MS can't control the engine. Sure, it can run it...but can't control the fancy functions.

Heh, remember the rule of real time verses machine shop time...I'm a hobby machinist and know it well. One hour = one day one day = one week one week = one month And so on.

Sounds like you went the wrong way, if the vibration starts lower. I have the same problem in my L28Z with the RT mount; but I'm fair-to-certain mine is due to a front end alignment problem...it's all in the steering wheel.

It is; but it also applies to turbo motors when the turbo is not spooled up. My engine has no anti-reversionary step, and I do run a moderately large cam. Lift is rather docile; but the duration and overlap are getting into the middle range. I did have a reversion problem when I first started running the motor with the ported intake manifold, as evidenced by dark coloured deposits from inexpensive gasoline (DAMN YOU local Jr. Food! you USED to sell non-ethanol fuel!) in not only the intake port, but about an inch upstream of the injector, indicating that the fuel air mix was indeed getting pushed back at least that far. Adjusting cam timing helped a LOT, but without the step I doubt I'll be able to remove the effect entirely. Am I worried about it? Nah. The pull-stop-stop-stop-pull-stop-stop-stop-pull pattern does just as much detriment to flow as any kind of reversion does. In summary: I went with the long consistantly tapering port on my engine. Your milage WILL vary.

It would usually be covered in his homeowners policy, but if it's not: USAA will give you book value minus deductable on the harley, if you have comprehensive coverage. You will get nothing for the yamaha if you only have liability coverage. Nothin'. I have USAA on my Z, and my agent down there in texas actually drives a '75 280Z. They play fair but if you're not covered, then you're not covered.

The divots being there are not a big deal; the biggest problem I had with them when I was running carbed was intake gasket leaks.

I'd not worry about the head bolts as much as the rod bolts. Definitely make room in the budget for a set of ARP rod bolts.

No, he used 300ZX non-turbo axles.

I would cut the head side of the manifold to match the ports in the head. The head side of the manifold will have the smallest diameter, it should taper down from the carb through the intake, through the head, to the valve. The long, smooth taper will actually increase velocity, while still allowing the large intake port. So, to recap: Carb throat = carb side of manifold > head side of manifold = port opening

If you're shooting for 300HP, it is said that the factory "A" grind cam is usable for non-hydraulic heads. And if you think you can hook up a laptop to the factory computer...that's not happening. The factory 75-83 computers are very simple beasts that aren't adjustable easily, you'll need to be extremely good ad soldering and very fluent in RC time constants to make it work well. The ported stock intake is going to be the real buzz-kill there, because it will start running out of air about 5500RPM...incidentally this is about the same time the stock turbo cam runs out of it's power band.