Xnke

The LD was used in forklifts, stationary generators, diesel engined boats, and a few cars...and for MOST sources, you'll get a gasser water pump even giving the LD28 number now.

More to the point, that no one seems to have mentioned yet Tony-If the RB20 box will fit...won't the RB25DET box??? No messing around with getting an adapter plate, just slot them or weld up and redrill for the L bolt pattern...

Mine's a new nissan oil pump, runs 30lbs cold at idle, but 10lbs warmed up, and gains 10lbs per 1000RPM up till it hits 92lbs, which is where the slightly shimmed spring holds it. I still don't think it's an oiling problem.

Your oil pressure is fine. 10lbs at idle, plus 10PSI per 1000RPM is a general rule of thumb, and the stock oil pressure bypass valve tends to open up about 80PSI. Sounds like your ticking noise is a rocker out of adjustment. Go through and do a hot valve adjustment and I bet the ticking goes away. If it doesn't, then start looking for exhaust leaks at the head/manifold face. I have two exhaust leaks on mine right now, from where I didn't get my manifold flange perfectly flat. Sounds just like a lifter tick, but eventually gets louder.

The LD28 pump impeller is far from not being cost-effective. Do it the same way everyone else does; cut it from a casting. Cast, wheelabrade, collet chuck, face, turn, bore, done. Total manufacture time can be less than 20 minutes from a hot melt. The problem is getting someone to stop the more lucrative work they are already doing, to setup to do your smaller, faster job.

They don't have to see you're barefoot. All they need to know is that you're on the road, and they feel like pulling you over. Just like the seatbelt laws now...used to you could NOT get a ticket for no belt unless you were being pulled over for something else. Now, it's a primary offense; you can get pulled over for it. The shoes-required law is a primary offense now too. It's all in the name of generating revenue for the cops that get hit while flicking their lights on while they drive through a red light, then shutting them off. Yeah, I know. Not all cops are like that. But enough of them in my city are that it's by far simpler to live like they are all dickheads, because they aren't going to stop and help at a wreck, they're not going to stop a robbery or even take notes when you report a stolen item. Any complaint against them just makes you a new target for things like the barefoot-law. (I never had any issues with them till I started reporting the two cops who constantly ran the red light out by my house every day, multiple times a day. From that point on, I have been pulled over two or three times a month for nothing. Never been issued a ticket; just harassed.)

Hey guys, I need to buy a 1970 to 1978 S30 hood. I'd like to have a 77-78 vented hood, if anyone has one. No rust. I don't care what color it is, because it'll be painted to match the car. Preferably no major dents/dings, when it gets shipped it'll pick up enough of those. I finished the car 7 months ago, just had it painted then. This morning, my mother thought it needed a nose job, so she sat the bumper of her ford escape on the hood. PM me with pricing, location, and photos of the top and bottom of the hood.

Turbo shaft isn't exactly like the non-turbo, apparently.

Fusable links? Have you checked thenm?

Awesome. One of the sales guys at work was a swepco rep for a long time. I've been wondering about the 201 for a while; and since my trans is needing a rebuild and a refill, I have been considering it.

I'll get around to it one of these days. As much as I love to drive the car, it needs things like transmission work first.

Make sure the exterior of the guides are clean. Any carbon or fouling left on the guide when you drive it out will scratch and gall the bore,and cause you heartache. I used an air hammer to remove mine, after making sure they were very clean. Warmed the head up to about 140F, then knocked the guide out with the air hammer and punch. Make sure you go easy, any misalignment will snap one off, and almost any radius at the step in the tool will shatter the guide...cast iron is shitty in tension, and if there is a radius at the step it'll expand the guide, putting it in tension and it will start crumbling away. I have two heads that have crumbled up valve guides like this.

In Kentucky it's illegal to drive barefoot. I know folks who get pulled over all the time for it. I know I have more than once...they use it as a "probable cause" excuse to search you and the car.

I wouldn't bother swapping syncros. If you're going to rebuild it, it only makes sense to spend the 150$ and put new parts in.

Also; as I've stated before in other places, testing DID show significant harmonics in the range between 7000 and 7800RPM with the L crank. The one about 7500RPM I believe is mostly a torsional vibration, due to the long crank. Fully counterweighted or not, it's still there. It was also the biggest spike on the chart. TonyD has posted the fix for this many times, a quality damper, as light a flywheel/clutch assembly as practical, and DON'T dwell in the danger zone! Zing it through that range as quick as possible and don't worry about it. As for practical limits...I wish I'd spent the extra money when I built my engine and loaded it with forged pistons. As it is, I have ITM hypereutectic cast slugs in it, and it will snap the needle off the tach, given a rev from 2.5K. Until it hits the revlimit at 7000RPM, that is. Is it the snappiest rev I've heard? No. But it is a 17lb flywheel and full stock clutch still.

So, other than flow issues...what would be different than running megaphones right off the collectors? I just watched the video and my ears are ringing!

Yep. sitting here babysitting the weber while I smoke a brisket. Put it on at 11AM, it'll be cooked between 11PM and 1AM. Probably shoulda started sooner. What's everyone else up to today?

Scotchbrite your piston tops, that can you if it's been rebuilt. Look for piston oversize markings, and check the bearing journals for size. Measure the head thickness, within a thousandth of an inch. There are inexpensive tools to do this, and you'll need them. Check for valve wear, and measure the valve margins...regardless of condition, if you have less than a 1mm valve margin I'd not use it. Check your bore diameter, at the bottom of the bore, and about a 1/4" down from the top of the bore. Check both side to side, and front to back. The broken piston rings are probably signs of detonation. You appear to have a 2nd generation E88 head, which is an open chamber, and normally runs about 8.8:1 compression. Did you run regular gas in it, or when it was running, did you hear any pinging or knocking? Don't be afraid to be laughed out of the machine shop. The shop that did my work was full of big domestic V8's, laying all over the place. Take the time to talk to the machinist, get a feel for him. If you feel like he's going to just run it across the belt and call it good, don't use that shop. If you think he's going to take the time to measure, setup, and do it right, then use that shop. Don't let machine cost be the determining factor; but be ready to spend the money when you find the shop you're comfortable with. Look for guys who have been doing it from the 70's and 80's, when the L was a common Nissan motor. Either way, rebuilding an L is not a bad job, just keep it all layed out in order and measure it up. Keep tolerances fairly close to the Nissan spec, but remember it's better to be a thou too loose than a thou too tight.

If you're going to do it, do it. There is no economy in rebuilding just the bottom end, or just the top end. If you re-ring the engine, but dont' do a valve job, it'll surely smoke, or you'll burn a valve. (usually burnt valves result from the higher compression from the newly finished bores, but less-than-perfect valve seal.) If you do a valve job, things are slightly more relaxed concerning the bottom end...but you are liable to end up using oil or with excessive blowby after a few hundred miles. I spent a grand total of 858$ to completely rebuild my engine...including bearings, pistons, rings, boring and honing the block, all gaskets, oil pump, water pump, bought a cylinder head core, ported the core, installed new valves and valve springs, and a reground cam and rockers, new valve stem seals and valve guides, and a complete valve job. It is really not that expensive to do, if you are doing the assembly and setup work, and you are only farming out the bore+hone, and the valve job. My machine costs were 120$ for the bore+hone, which included checking the block for cracks and wall thickness and checking the mains, and 257$ for the complete valve job, which consisted of new valve seats on the intake, five angle valve job, seat ID's machined out to my spec'ed size, and new valves fitted and normalized for stem length. Yes, I got a smokin' deal on the valve job. I was expecting 300 to 350$ for a real performance job, with the extra work I spec'd.

Certainly could be a U joint. I'd get it changed.

My Z is LOW. I drive pickups at work everyday, and the Z was my first sports coupe; so I was not used to the ride height. I could put a soda can under the frame rail, get in the car and crush the can. It's an interesting feeling, your butt moving 70MPH only 8-10" off the pavement.

All the brake lines are fine, no kinks. I suspect a bad brake proportioning valve; it's a 1983 S130. The master is a 15/16" single reservoir unit for a 1983 turbo S130. Unhooking the booster from the engine entirely produces absolutely no change in the brake pedal; and the pushrod has been adjusted. Will update with a solution, assuming one is found.

After answering the questionnaire, go measure an S13 and then measure an S30 or S130. Decide what *you* can fit that engine into, and then see what cars are available to you at a price you can afford.

Xnke's Automotive Swap Questionnaire 1. Do you possess the skills required to do what you want to do? If the answer is no, go to question two. if the answer is yes, then go to question three. 2. Do you possess the money to buy the skills/tools required to do what you want to do? If the answer is STILL no, see A or B. If yes, break out the checkbook. (2-A ) Don't do it. (2-B ) Obtain the skills/tools required to do what you want to do. 3. Do you possess the tools required to execute the skills required to do what you want to do? If no, go to question two. If yes, go to question four. 4. Do you possess the monetary resources to see a project like this to it's completion? If no, go answer 2-A. If yes, go do the math again, and go to question 4. Then go to question 5. 5. Have you located both the recipient vehicle, and the donor driveline? If yes, go to question six. If no, go back to question five. 6. Are you sleeping? If no, then you're doing it right. If yes, then wake up and get back in the shop. Go to question 7. 7. Does fit yet? If no, go to question 6. If yes, advance to question 8. 8. Does it run yet? If no, go to question 6. If yes, advance to question 9. 9. Can you drive it yet? If no, go to question 6. If yes, Congratulations. You Have Reached The Bank of Larn.

Check valve checks out fine. Can NOT suck through the valve from the booster side, but can blow into the intake manifold no problem.