Xnke

Look at the angle of the valves...open the valve slowly and watch what edges it gets close to. You want to keep at least 1/8" of free area around the valve periphery during the valve travel, where you can. More is good, until you start loosing chamber volume that you want.

Ok, so I bought a AiResearch T4 turbo from aplyedmind here in the classifieds. It needs a rebuild, and that's no problem...but I'm trying to figure out what it is. It's an old farm turbo I think. He'd cobbled it together with a section of pipe since the exhaust housing does not have a flange to bolt a downpipe to, but I think I can do better. The wheel sizes are as follows: Compressor wheel: 2.153" inducer 2.758" exducer This kinda corresponds to a T04B wheel...but not quite. The inducer size is smaller than I can find for any T04B wheel, but the exducer is correctly sized. Turbine wheel: 2.890" inducer 2.495" exducer Closest thing I can find is a T4 P-trim wheel. It's got an odd number of blades so it's hard to get perfect measurements. The exhaust housing has a .96 A/R and the compressor housing isn't marked, other than AiResearch and M27.

Ok, you don't seem to see the whole cost here... ANY REGROUND CAM WILL REQUIRE DIFFERENT LASH PADS. NO EXCEPTIONS! There are some cams ground on new cores that have stock-sized base circles, and these can sometimes run the stock .120" thick lash pads. Reground cams have smaller base circles and thus must have thicker lash pads to maintain proper cam geometry. Lash pads are 3$ each last I bought some. Not 150$ a set. Courtesy Nissan in Texas. Rocker arms are between 15$ and 30$ each new, or 3$-5$ each reground. Delta Camshaft, Tacoma Washington. A reground cam on your Nissan Japan core is about 100$. Delta Camshaft, Tacoma Washington. These are not the only suppliers of these parts. There are others out there. So, total high-side cost using these numbers is 36$+60$+100$, that's 196$ for the cam/rockers/lash pads, not counting shipping. This is what I paid last winter to do the cam in my car. In order to choose a cam, you need to look at the rest of the engine as a whole. Are you running factory EFI on a 1975-1983 engine? If you are, forget the cam. It will only cause you problems. The factory computer will not play nice with a non-factory cam. Are you running SU sidedrafts? If so, you can pretty easily run a larger camshaft; but you need to look at your RPM range, are you dailying this car or is it track-only, what kind of compression ratio you're running, what kind of gas you're running, what elevation you live at and where you plan to drive at. There is a lot more to choosing a camshaft then simply saying "What's the biggest cam that will work without changing anything else?" BTW...the answer to that question is "The stock cam."

Any cam upgrade will require setting up the lash pads. If you skip this step, expect to destroy the cam. Some cams will work with stock .120" thick pads, but any that do aren't generally going to be worth the time and money. You can get cam kits from MSA with appropriate lash pads and springs; but you STILL have to go through and check all the lash patterns to make sure you're not going to destroy the cam. You will ALSO need new or reground rocker arms, or you're going to run the risk of destroying the cam. Some folks don't bother with new/reground rockers and get lucky; some don't bother and wipe cam lobes. Delta Camshaft will regrind your rockers for a reasonable cost.

Definitely open the spark plug side up...unshroud your valves before you call that head done. You can make that into a nice medium-quench chamber pretty easy, with a piston that matches the shape well. Look at some of BRAAP's photos here to see where to make the cuts, and it'll really help with the amount of material that has to come out of the pistons.

They're worth whatever they cost at the local Autozone/AdvanceAuto.

Since DIYautotune has an L28ET powered 240Z as their shop car, I'm sure if they had one that fit they'd let you know.

you aren't going to get a better deal on one in the east if it's truly not rusty. No rust trumps won't start easy every time in any datsun.

Not much without the matching diff...

It's literally a year old. I ordered it in september of last year.

Drove the car with the new psudo-Stahl header and new exhaust, same Summit Racing Street&Strip muffler in the back that it had with the old header. Alternator quit on me...got that fixed. Car was still pissed at me. Gave her a fresh tank of 93 (she normally drinks 87 and likes it) Still didn't want to drive. Would not start...no spark. Charged the battery for a few hours. Dumped nice new tested tune to MS, cranked it a few times. No spark. Checked connections, found tach unplugged. Plugged it back in, checked everything else. Turned the key. Car cranks over two times and KABOOM. Backfires out the exhaust, then goes into the smoothest idle yet. Well fine, ya little *****...what's your deal? You normally love the top-shelf gas! Something bothering you? Oh, I see. You did sound a little hoarse this morning. Will a nice new stainless welded muffler do? Maybe a Trust or a Kameari? Oh, a good chambered muffler, Ok. I'll call Summit right now...Yes, yes you can talk to the woman on the phone, here you go...

It is an awesome header though...I drove it around today and it's like a whole new car. Had to almost completely rework the fuel map...what was rich before is now a little lean. I'm going to take the car on a road trip this weekend, assuming everything goes well this week.

where's that image that BRAAP always posted when this question came up? EDIT: Found it.

And for the bad news...The damn flange needs to move to the back of the car by an inch. Just one inch further back and I wouldn't be hearing the sound of the exhaust ting, ting, ting'ing against the transmission case...tappy tappy on one of the case bolt heads. Time to order another manifold gasket...at least it doesn't take me long to get things apart and back together.

The piston bore size on the 240SX rear caliper is 34mm on an S13, and 38mm on the Q45 or S14. And then the upgrade I haven't seen yet...which I am getting ready to do. The Z31 calipers have a 43mm piston...and use larger pads and a larger rotor. I am slowly collecting parts to fit this setup on my car; but it will require the use of a new proportioning valve.

Ok, so I finally got the header put together and fitted up in the car. Fitment isn't perfect...If I cut the secondary collector off and moved it forward about an inch and a half, I'd have better transmission clearance, but I'd be getting awful close to the firewall. Nothing hits, nothing rubs, throughout the full range of motion of the engine. Getting it in the bay, however.... It takes practice. That's RedZedTurbo holding the header up after I finished welding the flange on the back. Tomorrow the welds get cleaned up, the header will get blasted and VHT'd for now, I need to get it on the car and make sure it doesn't have any issues before I send it off to be ceramic coated. As it is, I need the car up at least 14 inches off the ground to get the header into the bay, and I have to pull all the head studs to get it installed. John wasn't kidding about it being tight on the steering shaft, but morso it's tight on the TC rod box.

Unless you use a bottoming tap...in which case there are only two tapered threads instead of 7-10 tapered threads.

If you're not some "herrafrush" kid or dorifto nut, why don't you just run a 16x8 0 offset and coilovers, and not worry about the stretched tires or fenderwell clearances? There are a few people here running 16x8 0 offset even on stock suspensions...and they JUST BARELY fit. You'll have rubbing issues on the fronts, due to the front valence and the front of the fenderwell. If it's because you've already got the Wantanabes, sure, whatever you gotta do, you gotta do. But if you're still looking at buying them, get the wheels that will fit in the wells and not destroy your tires. 16" tires are NOT cheap in good rubber! I seriously looked into the 16x8's myself, but went with 15x8's because of the rubbing in the front.

The There is no functional difference in the way the SX and ZX rear calipers mount. It's a wash as to which one you go with, and be advised that if you upgrade the front brakes to even just the 4runner solid disk brake...the rear brakes are NOT STRONG ENOUGH to keep up...the 200SX are weakest, then the 280ZX, then the 240SX, in that order. The 240SX rear brake is JUST enough to keep up with the 4runner S12+8 brake upgrade. Even then, it's very difficult to get enough rear brake bias. (Note, I'm running the 4runner solid disk S12+8's up front, and the 240SX caliper on 280ZX rotors out back.)

Ok. I'm looking at buying the Tokico Blues and fitting them up with the 200lb/in springs, and new XXR513's in 15x8.

Uh, the damper is NOT internal on the L...it's the front crank pulley.

These springs are too tall for the Z...perfect for the "rally look" but too hard for rally, I'd think. Will definitely get you the ground clearance you need for off-roading in a Z. I'll trim them a bit at a time to bring the height down, a recent disaster-turned-windfall (wrecked the car and broke a wheel, dented a fender slightly) has this project moving a little quicker now.

Uh, you realize the headers he's referring to are the Nissan motorsports "factory engineered" headers, right Tony? (and you're right, it's not like we're putting Monzter's Bag Of Snakes down beside the engine or anything....)

Either the OS Giken 3.05, or the very hard to find R200 3.36 from a 1974 S30 2+2. Not sure if it came with manual or auto trans, but it is pretty damn hard to find one. You will need the matching pinion. They must go in as a matching set.

Jon, have you looked into producing 30 spline stubs to use the Nismo LSD kits for the S13/14/15 R200 differentials? This would really make an LSD more available to the Datsun community, both in Z's and dimes alike. (and I'm still really really looking for a R180 3.36 LSD option, but being broke doesn't make that realistic for a while)