Xnke

That's 510six's car. It's a pretty sweet setup, and I think the bellhousing was a one-off job.

Or come out of the 70's and run the 8.5:1 compression...it's not going to hurt you in the least. Or for those who don't mind using dished pistons, Z24 pistons from a 720 pickup already have a 15cc dish in them.

Hey, that's awesome. The doors, check the shimming and the door lock mechanisms, and the alignment. That's 90% of the problems, really.

Those injectors are likely going to be a little bigger than stock...If the GM ECU can handle them, cool. If not, well, get ready to tune that hexcode till you get it right! Shouldn't be a big deal to tune a 7747, though

For a complete, ground up rebuild of the engine, including: New pistons Bored block New bearings New seals New gaskets Balanced crankshaft Your extra costs will be: LD28 crank = 150-450$ L24 9mm rods = 50-100$ ARP rod bolts = 75-85$ All other machine costs will be the same whether you are building a .20 thou overbore, or the various stroker configurations.

I'm running an old-style MSA 6-3-2 header (not sure if they still make them the same) into a 2.5" pipe, with a glasspack under the driver's seat, and a Summit Turbo muffler in the stock location. It's got a nice note to it, and it's not nearly as loud under 4K as a single cherrybomb will be.

Or hook the vacuum advance back up and use it. Vacuum advance is exactly that, the higher the engine vacuum, the more advance you're running. I am not exactly sure how to modify the vacuum advance; other than to add or subtract you adjust the slot length in the dizzy, but you can lengthen the slot to delay advance coming in, and then add mechanical advance, or you can shorten the slot to speed up the vacuum advance, and subtract mechanical. It'll be a LONG, LONG day on the dyno with a mechanical dizzy..

Mitsubishi has the thumb-latch style EV-1 connectors all over the engine bay. There are five or six in a single car.

I'm not explicitly wrong, so much as I didn't go on an excursion to explain my answer. I posted what I believe would be the best engine for a regularly street driven, regularly tracked car, and didn't back it up with anything. The way I see it, you *can* make good power with the L24 warmed over, and still drive and track it, but if you are going to put the money into the engine, do it all at once and be done. The extra work for the extra half liter is minimal, and it has more potential. (about one half-liter more potential, actually.) The decision as to whether that extra potential is necessary is not an answer that anyone here can really give you. For naturally aspirated track/hot street engines, given that the cylinder head will be the same for both of them, I see no reason, other than money to buy a block or a crank I didn't have, to NOT build the L28, whether I was building a stroker motor or not. I'm not too new to the forums here, but I am new in the idea that I've only built five engines. I'm starting to pick up and read books a little closer, and more and more, I'm finding that Tony's comment about displacement being a myth is partially true. Many folks go for displacement on principle or ignorance; but almost as much gain, or in many cases a higher gain, can be had from tuning and careful parts selection, without the extra displacement. So, why not build the displacement, AND while you're at it, carefully select parts to work together, and then spend the time and money on tuning to bring in the best of both sides of the equation? If you are going to build an L28, stroker or not, I wouldn't worry much over the block stamping. N42 and F54 blocks would both work just fine; because if you're going for a large overbore you should still have the block checked for wall thickness. Running on C16 regularly? Have you spoken to Isky about what kind of compression ratio will work well with your chosen cam? (I'm thinking perhaps that's where the 12:1 number came from?) With the higher compression, a big camshaft will be able to run lower octane gas, due to dynamic compression, but there is still the question of timing advance; how much is optimal for power, and how much will your fuel grade and compression limit your advance curve?

I think Jon is right. All the HP left in the setup is in the tuning. You say you've dialled in your AFR's, but have you adjusted the timing? Recurved the timing advance to suit your motor and driving? Tried adjusting the cam one way or the other to see if you pick up any power? There is a lot more than just fuel tuning to get the most out of an engine, it just gets overlooked as too hard or too minimal of a gain for a LOT of folks out there.

heh...Who did the tuning for the new bottom end? have the carbs been adjusted to match? If not, i'd say about 180HP, 180TQ If so, then I'd say 200HP, 200TQ, more is available with a good tune and time.

L28. Displacement, displacement, displacement.

My car is going to be 918 orange; just tell them the color and the year, the code should be in the computer regardless of market.

My paint shop was able to easily work out the color code, and any paint you buy today is going to be unleaded.

I'm thinking one can get bigger than the 85mm stroke easily...Look at the LD28 block; see how the webs and the bottoms of the cylinders are clearanced for the rods? I think that a set of first-gen 4GXX rods would work; they are a 45mm bearing diameter and are slightly wider than the L-series, so the big ends would have to be narrowed; rather than widened.

Looks great, Ron. Seems to me, you're down to the "wiring nightmare" part of the swap. So you'll have it running in a few hours, right? You only really need a fuel pump down in a coffee can with some hose and duct tape, and just twist some wires together; it'll be fine. (No, really...Hold my beer, I'll do it for you...)

I don't know where you all are getting your machine prices...It was 120$ to have my block tanked, bored, honed, and magnafluxed; the head was 330$ to have it tanked, surfaced on three sides, milled .30 thousandths, new SI valves installed, and five-angle seats cut, and I had 80$ in tools/materials and 40 hours in the port job. Machine work does not have to be expensive, I'm not sure where these 5000$ stroker motors are coming from...the most expensive builds, perhaps; but a street motor? My complete engine build, including my custom manifold, TB's, and fuel system, totals up at just a little under 1500$. Is machinework really that expensive in other parts of the world?

Ok, my mistake; the Black speedo cog is for the 3.545 rear, blue for 3.700, white for 3.900, and red for 4.110. I'm still looking for the correct cog for my 3.36 rear end; I have a black one in my transmission at the moment.

That's the nice thing about KY...if they hit you anywhere behind the rear tires, it's automatically their fault, unless your car is in reverse IN A PARKING LOT. Then it is a no-fault ruling. That and the weather are about the only two good things, I can think of, pertaining to cars.

You're right...it's a 24 or 28 pin chip. Look up Nistune, Vega.

You will need to find a VSS sensor that has the correct color/toothcount cog on it if you want your speedometer to be correct. There's really not any other good way to do it unless you have a programmable speedometer. I THINK the 3.545 rear end uses a black speedo cog; but somewhere in these forums is a good list of what color/tooth cogs are for what rear ends. The red/20 tooth cog is for a 4.11 rear end.

Usually the stock 14" wheels go for anything from free-to-good-home to 100$ or so. I have bought one set of Iron Cross and one set of Six-Spoke for 45$ each.

In my opinion, dump the stock EFI and go Megasquirt. Yeah, it shoots your budget in one shot, but it's the most cost effective upgrade you can get, and opens the door to untold worlds.

that appears to be a stock oil cooler mount from a ZX auto turbo. There probably is a rubber o-ring type gasket that fits there, but it threads onto the stock filter mount, then has the bolt to keep it from loosening. If it was me, I'd have the filter mount setup in a lathe and an o-ring groove cut in its face, if there is no gasket currently.

I was looking at some toyota applications; and some subaru; the subarus use a simple to mount compressor, but I don't think it's variable displacement. It's hard to tell externally; for me at least, because i'm not entirely sure what' I'm looking at.