Xnke

Sure, a stronger bottom end is great. So replace the rod bolts with ARP or equivalent hardware, and call it a day. Unless you're shooting for 500+ HP, no real need to chance much. 700+ is when that block brace starts coming into play, but I can't think of many who've used one and I know there have been L's over 1100HP. It's a stout block, that needs comparatively little prep.

To add to the confusion, a 1987 200SX has all the features of the S13 box, plus dual-cone syncro on second gear (this actually happened in 1986), AND is NOT 50MM longer than the stock S30 transmission. The Nissan moniker is FS5W71H. It's essentially the same internally as an S13 FS5W71C, but somewhere along the way they lost two inches... On the first gear pop-out...check and see if your shift boot is doing it. Mine does. Take the shift boot off, and it stops popping out of gear.

I have one that I made in college...it's on my block same as yours. I used Grade B7 threaded rod to turn custom length studs, and hardened nuts and washers, when I did mine.

I have my control panel mounted the same way, and the center vent won't clear it...I have to mod the mounting points about a sixteenth of an inch. Just a little heads-up on a potential issue.

I think you need to start proofreading your posts. In all honesty, just wait for the V8 swap. Don't try to swap the car if it's your daily, you'll end up without a car at all, for a long time. You'll end up spending plenty of money on the V8 conversion, so anything you spend now you'll wish you still had later.

I need a driver's side window regulator for my '72. NOT ALL YEARS OF S30 ARE THE SAME!! If you have a 70-74 window regulator, in good condition, let me know. Good condition means that the splines where the handle goes are NOT all jacked up or stripped off from vice grips! That's the problem I have now, someone vice-gripped the regulator a LOT and stripped off all the splines.

The block is stamped, not the head. You can still check the dataplate and the engine block. The block is stamped on the passenger side, at the top, between cylinders 5 and 6.

get out the measuring sticks and find out the lift and duration...that'll tell you a LOT more than a guess and a photo will.

Your information is not correct, both the headbolts and the rod bolts are reusable. The FSM reccomends that the headbolts be replaced after torquing 3 times, IIRC, but they are not torque-to-yield headbolts. The rod bolts are also reusable, there's nothing wrong with using them other than they are the first weak point in the bottom end. For a stock rebuild, they're fine. for anything other than a stock rebuild, the ARP fasteners are cheap insurance.

Alright! You finally seem to be getting into the swing of things, 280zbeeT. So, You've got a repaired haltech E11 on the way, and a harness that will run the car. You have an MSD6A ignition box installed. The move to a 9psi wastegate spring was a good one...at 9PSI, you're only slightly above stock boost. Here's what you should do when you get your ECU back. Plug in the ECU, and get a download to your laptop. SAVE IT on a flash drive or something. Get the car started, but don't do anything but get it to idle. Check your ignition timing, and make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the timing that you get from the timing light, matches what the haltec ECU says it's sending. Once you've got that information, and you can confirm that the ECU and the timing light agree, You will know that your ECU is controlling your timing. Does the MSD box control any aspect of your timing at all? Or is it just a coil driver that takes an input from the ECU and outputs to the coil? IF THE MSD6A IGNITION BOX CHANGES YOUR TIMING, YOU DO NOT NEED, AND DO NOT WANT IT. Ok. So at this point, your engine should be running, and you should not hear any pinging or knocking or rattling. I assume that you can watch your wideband controller and see boost and air-fuel ratio at the same time...if you can't, well, watch AFR first, try to keep it about 13 or a little under for a bit. See if the car will drive gently, and not knock or ping. Low speeds, low loads. Since the ECU is tuned for 4500RPM and under, and 14PSI, you WILL need to retune the engine. I'm with the others here, I'd take it to a shop and pay them to tune the car. You'll end up miles ahead in the end. ESPECIALLY if you can watch him, see what he does, and how he does it. I'll bet this is his general process: Start car. Check AFR's up and down the RPM range, watching for anomalies. Confirm wastegate pressure. Start load tuning the fuel map at low speeds and low RPM. Work over the ignition map at low speeds and low RPM. Start load tuning the fuel map and ignition map as the boost comes up, keeping detonation in check as he goes. Then he'll probably fine tune it for max power and drivability last. Don't be suprised if it takes several hours to do this. Drive it for a while at 9PSI, keeping data logs of the drives. When you want to up the boost, take these datalogs to him, with the car, and it'll make his job easier. Sounds like you're getting closer!

I don't see the problem with using a step key, but there isn't really a problem with welding the slot and recutting the keyway, either. The mill setup will be the same amount of work either way, half an hour of measuring and jigging, then two minutes to make the cut. I LOVE machining! Everyone looks at you like you're a madman when you spend hours on a difficult setup and then take seconds to make the cut!

How much hood clearance do you have? that 1/4" of oil pan clearance, even with your limited suspension travel, makes me feel a little ill...one wrong bump on the road and that nifty lookin volvo motor is done for.

I'd check your ignition switch for faults. If you need a new switch let me know, I have three or four around here somewhere if I can find them. Are you using the factory injection system, or megasquirt, or what? I'd check your igniton pickup connections, and your coil. Just start at one point, and since it acts like an electrical problem, treat it like one.

I am not sure how these folks are getting along with that cam being so bad. No one here can tell you what that cam will do, based on the information you have given us. The lift and duration is not enough to figure anything out; you'd want to know the lift, duration, lobe centers, and lobe separation. With turbocharged engines, camshaft selection is a bit of black magic; in my opinion. supercharged, nitrous, naturally aspirated, all those engines are easier to choose a cam for; but I am not sure why. I know that for a naturally aspirated, you want some valve overlap, you want to choose a cam that is not too big for the induction, and one that is not too big for the exhaust. Long duration cams make more horsepower at higher CFM's, and high-lift cams tend to allow easier breathing, to a point. The key is matching the cam to the engine, and with a stock turbo intake manifold, a stock turbo head, and a stock turbo exhaust manifold, the factory turbo cam is fairly well suited for engines up to 250HP, and is adequate for engines up to 300HP, given that you have the fueling and engine management systems to support such. You say that you've read about the stock cam running out of steam at 5-6Krpm...did you know that the stock intake manifold runs out of flow at about that point, as well? I would call around to the cam regrinders, and talk to them. True, it's not needed for the power levels you are looking at, but you may get some tidbits of information that would help you better decide what you want.

Am I late to the conversation? Yeah, sure. But I have had exactly the same experience at the local school here. all the GenEd classes were cake, just walked through them. Engineering classes were just fine, had to study, but nothing major. Chem, I scored well and finished it, no more required chem. But the mathematics courses! I took AP calc in high school, and got a 3 on the AP exam. I took calc 1 in college, and failed it 3 TIMES. After contacting an omsbudsman, it turns out I had mathematically passed the course with a 92% the FIRST time I took the class. At that point, I took what the omsbudsman and I had found straight to the dean of mathematics, and he just brushed it off as "You're wrong, you did not make that score, I do not care what the books say." So we go to the board of regents, and after fighting with them for over a year (and taking classes other than mathematics) I finally get the passing grade to take calculus 2. Took calc 2 over the winter semester, and kept every single page of work I produced for that class. I was issued a grade of 50%, when it was trivial to prove that my work was graded (BY THE SAME PROF) much, much higher than that, i.e., He had simply thrown out the actual numbers and marked a 50% in the book. I took it through the same channels as before, and this time was told that he was a tenured professor, and that there was nothing they were willing to do. I told them to take the paperwork and shove it, and have not been back to college yet. It is simply not worth the bullshit just for a 40,000$ sheet of paper saying that I jumped through hoops and grovelled at the feet of professors for four years. That same sheet of paper often times DOESN'T mean you know your ****, just that you paid the money and kissed enough ass to get it. It is unfortunate that in this country a bachelor's degree in ANY subject has become a "checkmark" item for so many occupations. When I have recouped the money I wasted at the local school, I may try again. I'm about halfway to working back up to the amount of money I had when I started college, so we'll see.

Sounds to me like something inside the valve cover, or against the front timing cover. The noise sounds like cast aluminum, to me.

I don't know about most other folks, but I would be wary of having a broken and relinked chain. It might never ever break ever, but I'd constantly be thinking about it. I agree with Pete, domed pistons would be the way to go. Or have the head welded to a closed chamber head, to match the KA24DE pistons better. Isn't it John Coffey's N42 that had the open chamber and the domed pistons, to reduce valve shrouding while keeping the compression?

My cam from delta is an assymetric, but it's not a new grind...it's very obvious from looking at the lobes what type it is, though. I would imagine it's a knock off of another cam from the late 70's early 80's, but Isky and Sunbelt are not the only ones.

Really, the large injector problems are a non-issue except on a street driven car; especially for N/A applications. On a track only car, who cares if the idle is rough, as long as it doesn't bog on takeoff or die on throttle lift, most of your time will be spent in the upper range anyway! No need for double sets of injectors. EFI is the way to go; as long as your class rules allow it.

Might want to specify L20, L20A, L20B, L20E on that? You probably want the L20B four cylinder distributor...

Yep, that's how that manifold comes. It's set up for L20A ports, I think, which are much smaller than the L24/26/28 ports.

You only need to add clutches to a LSD...this is just a ring and pinion set. There is no carrier included in that Ebay ad.

It would fit in an R180, but keep in mind there are two different R180 differentials...there is the regular old Z diff and then the "K" R180. The K diff is a little different.

I have a similar thing going on with my Z now...I haven't worked on the tune much after getting it smoothly drivable, been working on paint. From 900RPM idle, it's an easy, smooth ride to 2000RPM...then you feel the car coming up behind you, starting to press you into the seat suddenly at 2500...then it just GOES..the tach flies around to 6.8K and the rev-limiter hits, just like if you had shifted to neutral. But from 900 to 2500 RPM, it's not that it bogs, it just "feels" docile, compared with the hit of the (small by many standards) cam. I want to move that 2500RPM point down some, I think, but in this case, it's cam timing, then ignition timing. Once you have the wideband in there and can get the fuel dialed in, you'll want to adjust the ignition timing, then you'll see you're running lean in spots again. At least, that's how my engine has behaved.

I would go straight to the fuel filter, change it. If that fixes your problem, then drop the tank and have it cleaned, then put it back with another new fuel filter.