Xnke

Yes, the rear sill piece. It was available from Zedd Findings for a little while, but now there are no more. Very difficult to form by hand, a very simple part to press.

So you're trying to mount that EDIS trigger wheel, but the best method you can think of seems to always involve machining the damper metal. What's the damper for the Venerable L-series made from? How about that 3rd row add-on pulley from that aftermarket A/C unit? Or most any flywheel? Some kind of cast iron or steel, but often hard as a rock! What do you do now? Here's some helpful hints for machining cast iron: 1. LOW SURFACE SPEED! This will save you more frustration with burned up tool bits than any other single thing. Even the soft, free cutting varieties of cast iron or cast steel will not tolerate a high surface speed. Get the lathe's RPM down! 2. Take a heavy initial cut. Take at least .020 on the first pass, at a low cutter advance rate. Almost all cast metals have a hard skin that is difficult to cut, and very abrasive. Once you get through, though, it's pretty smooth sailing. 3. Keep aware of your tool's cutting edge. Keep the tool sharp, every few passes or minutes of cutting, touch up the edge with a hone or check the edge of the milling cutter. A dull cutter will harden up the skin of the workpiece, and really frustrate the machinist that doesn't understand why he just can't get the tool to cut. 4. Use carbide tooling. For all but the finish pass, carbide will go a long way to achiveing your goal of a nice finished part, in minimum time. For your finish pass, usually a razor sharp HSS tool will give a better cut. For those with access to a tool-and-cutter grinder though, diamond hone a carbide tool's facets to nearly polished level. This will also give a nice finish on that last pass. 5. Keep a good chip feed going. Once you get the tool cutting, keep it in the zone. Don't get too agressive, but don't be shy. burnishing the cut edge will only dull your tool and cause you to have to stop and sharpen that tool again. Too deep a cut will break the workpiece, stall your machine, or worse! Also, watch out for hard spots in the metal. These can be detrimental to tooling life. Even when just drilling in a press, these tips apply. Slow the drill down, apply moderate to high pressure to break the skin, and keep up a good chip feed. Sharp drills are a must! Keep these tips in mind, and machining that cast iron part will be a breeze.

Why not pull cool air from the cowl area? It's a much shorter run, less hose, and a high pressure area.

Dude, for me to get a pair of floor pans, rails, and everything including shipping was 400$....shipped to 42104 in the states. they do make 280Z floor pans as well, and 280ZX pans even.

I do believe I'm gonna express mail you an eyeball with an electronic wireless optical nerve assembly on the back, just so i can see this thing. It's gotta be awesome!

Yes, the Ampco pistons are stock. I have dismantled 3 P30 blocks, and all had Ampco pistons with valve reliefs.

UPDATE Got my ZX master mounted, then engine bay stripped, sanded, de-rusted, and painted, driver's floor cut out and halfway welded back in, going to the car wash today to scrub the front crossmember clean and paint it soon. Just missed a set of new OEM engine mounts on that watery auction place, oh well. Engine block, crank, pistons, rods have been cleaned, prepped, and assembled. 2.9L bottom end, with all ARP hardware. 9.32cc dish 88mm pistons, L24 rods, and L28 crank. Pistons prodrude 0.15 mm above the deck. Going to the parts yard this weekend, hoping to find an S30 with a good hood and cowl, and an N42 or E88 cylinder head with no water jacket problems. Or an N47 to swipe valves out of. Maybe some other nifty parts, hopefully some interior parts. I don't have much of an interior...

I don't see a good reason why it won't work, and since I've got three cylinder heads here just in case. Lumiweld rods have a melting point of 780F, and are an aluminum-zinc eutectic alloy. It is slightly harder than the base aluminum alloy. One needs chamber welding and valve seats, plus a port/chamber cleanup. Water jackets are in perfect shape, and the head has 30K on it. Obviously, Lumiweld won't work here. Two has drilled out exhaust valve guides stuck in the head, les than 1mm thick. Still stuck in head. Needs intake valve seats and new valve guides, plus a little work on the water jacket. The trapezoid hole behind #6, one of the small holes between #3 and #4, and the headbolt sized hole in front of #1. Three has hard steel seats installed, no valve guide issues, but has serious water jacket damage in the big trapezoid shaped hole behind #6, one of the small holes between #3 and #4, and the headbolt sized hole by #1. The damaged areas have been cleaned spotless with a die grinder and sanding wrap. I'll document the process, and we'll see if it works out.

Looks like a wide ratio 5sp to me, by cursory inspection and data from the linked page.

The SM needles are widely regarded as too rich by many on this forum, for even a stock L28. The original N54 needles are fine for the L26, and even good for the L28 too, as long as the carbs are set up right. Start with the N54 needles, and if you need more fuel (use a good wideband to determine this) then look into the british SU needles for something between the N54 and the SM.

I sir, bow before you, the project completion god. as soon as I saw this, i started my own version, and poured my initial castings from old L28 pistons. After seeing your latest work, those castings have re-entered the remelt pile...

You probably want to check out the 510Realm or the Ratsun forums, both of these have LOTS of L20B information. Most of the cars here have a little bit more displacement, or more cylinders, or a combination of both.

Actually, I got 9 intake and 3 exhaust. I can cut the counterbore in the lathe, and there is enough room to cut the counterbore.

Seriously, if you didn't know that DOM tubing was required for roll cages, or even what DOM stands for (drawn over mandrel) then this is over your head at the moment. Do some research, get the SCCA rulebook, or something similar, and read up. Basically, what is sold at HD is ERW pipe. Electric Resistance Welded. That means that it has a seam, which is a weak point. It will split along the seam in a wreck, rendering your roll cage just more sharp pointy heavy debris inside your car, right next to your head. It'll probably still split along that seam when you goto bend it, if you aren't careful. Really, you will want DOM Chrome-Moly tubing. Makes for a lighter cage, but has to be TIG welded due to heat affected zone hardening, making the welds brittle. The chrome-moly part is not as important, but it is stronger overall. You will NEED drawn over mandrel (DOM) seamless tubing in order to bend it without fear of splitting it. Also, DOM seamless is the only really safe material for a roll cage, in 99% of all rulebooks and 100% of all common sense.

Ok, so I just bought a set of new valve guides from a guy on ebay, but he obviously doesn't know the difference between an exhaust and an intake guide. In the L6, does it really make much difference? I know the intakes are externally chamfered, and the exhausts have an internal chamfer, but since it's not uncommon for the exhausts to get cut back to the bosses in ported heads, will it cause a problem?

Truthfully, the using stock, OEM parts for bolts and nuts is silly. Get good quality fasteners and you will be fine. ACE, Lowes, Home Depot, TSC, etc., DO NOT HAVE quality fasteners. Try Fastnal, Mcmaster-Carr, or Granger.

You can get them at autozone, kragen, wherever...those are the main bearings, and they come as a set.

Got the new ZX master today; immediately broke off a bleeder screw in it. Grocery store to the rescue, they have Alum. add alum to hot water, keep it hot. Strip master cylinder down to just the aluminum casting, and any steel parts that i never want to see again. Immmerse casting in alum-water, wait. It'll be ready to go by tomarrow! YAY!

If it was me, after running the seafoam through the engine, I'd check the valve stem seals. They'll cause smoking like that, with no loss of cylinder compression.

No, when i clicked that link (both that time, and this time) it took me to the following link: http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/iclk?sa=l&ai=BjtIV_Wc7SbGOIJGQnAbBnpHMArOwvXiZyoDfB__Rup0TgJciEAEYASDAwZAJOABQ-dnFrvj_____AWDJvtKI_KOEF7IBEmZvcnVtcy5oeWJyaWR6Lm9yZ7oBCTcyOHg5MF9hc8gBA9oBMWh0dHA6Ly9mb3J1bXMuaHlicmlkei5vcmcvc2hvd3RocmVhZC5waHA_cD05NjA1MjngAQOAAgHAAgGoAwHIAwXoA1noA9cG6APnBfUDAAEABJgEAA&num=1&adurl=http://www.WealthyWiseguy.com&client=ca-pub-3543793485173468&nm=2 Now, tell me that's not spam. I don't know if i got clickbombed or what, but every time i open his link, i get that advert. (which is on our forum, by the way.) Anyway, I do know the Al you are speaking of...got ripped off by him in the past. It's a shame, what he does.

wWhat the hell? a blatant SPAM post? I really hope you didn't intentionally link to that make-a-million-dollars-on-the-internets crap.

50W!?!?!!! WHAT? If you read the FSM, they call for straight 30W motor oil. Valvoline VR-1 30W or 10w-30 would be much more appropriate.

Tuning SU's is not as simple as some think, and a wideband is pretty instrumental. I hate the thought of trying to do it with a narrowband...getting needles tapered right, and getting the springs and dampers set up right are a pain enough as it is. Can the bosch LSU 4.2 sensor be installed right where the two groups of primaries come together, or does it need to be located somewhere else? Right now, I'm thinking one sensor in each group, as you suggested, Daeron.

Unfortunately, I can't see the images due to some stupid flash slideshow. direct image links would work better. This is likely the reason you haven't gotten any replies.

Get a replacement quarter, but understand that this is gonna lead to a lot of rust repair. Get another door, if it looks like the damage is more than skin deep. if it's just a flesh wound, the door can likely be saved easily. Pictures of the damage are needed to fully asses your situation.