Xnke

That turbo looks to be in great shape. I'd definitely try to find a good turbine and housing from a T3 to fit it.

Currently I'm trying to figure out what the best location is to install a wideband 02 sensor on the exhaust header i have. it's a 3-2-1 type header, and I'm going to be running SU's. Yes, a wideband and SU's. I intend on actually tuning my SU's, instead of guessing. to do this, i need a wideband, just like the EFI guys out there. I found a bunch of them in the local Pull-a-Part, for 1$ each. So, do I put the sensor in the #5 primary, 18" down, or in the collector? If i can put it in the collector, i could mount two sensor bungs and swap it back and forth, to get both carbs synced up right. If I put in in #5, I am monitoring the most detonation prone cylinder, but only will be monitoring the rear carb. Suggestions?

Time to hit the junkyards folks, and be on the lookout for the following VW's- Yank the FRONT O2 sensors. golf, gti, r32, 1.8l, front 2002 - 2006 golf, gti, r32, 2.8l, front 1999 - 2001 jetta, 1.8l, front 2002 - 2005 jetta, 2.8l, front 1999 golf, gti, 2.8l, front 1999 beetle, 1.8l, front 2001 - 2005 eurovan, 2.8l, front 2001 - 2003 ALL of these cars came with the SAME SENSOR used in the innovate LM-1 and LC-1 kits, and MOST other wideband o2 kits. 10 months ago these sensors could be had from VW for under 30$, but now that everyone has caught on, they are 100$+ many places.

Drax, how about: 2883cc's 88mm bore, 79mm stroke 133mm rods ITM P/N RY-6116 piston, Z22s 1mm oversize With E88 head and Fel-pro gasket, 9.1:1 With P90 Head and fel-pro gasket, 8.0:1 1.68:1 rod/stroke

Not off the top of my head, but TonyD does. IIRC, it's something like .450 lift, compared to .430 lift of the other stock cams. (the C stamp has even less lift on the intake than most of the other stock cams! only the L28ET cam is smaller.)

Really, the "C" stamp cam is so minimally different, I don't think you'll see any difference. Anyway, Bernie, so far almost all of your questions in all of your recent threads have been answered in the stickys or FAQ's on this site. You'll often not find an exact answer, but you will find guidance that will point you in the right direction. As to what cam, if you're gonna hunt up a "C" stamp cam, i'd take all that effort and find a cam from an L20A. Much bigger difference, if you can find one.

To my inexpert eyes, that cylinder head looks like an N33. Large intake, small exhaust, although both of those valve sizes are non-standard, I think. Aren't N47 valves 35mm and 44mm? Anyway, the N33 has the large intake, and small exhaust, wheras the late E88 has the large exhaust and small intake. The N33 has the N42 /middle E88 style chamber as well, and could easily have been welded to close it up like a P90. Of course, there are mystical P50 and P81 cylinder heads reportedly out there as well...I have never seen or heard of one outside of the Ozdat engine calculator. The N33 I have seen, though. Supposedly, the P81 has round exhaust ports. Also, remember the Kameari 85mm billet crank...still available at over 3KUSD...

Does anyone here know if the S130 oil pressure sender (with the pressure switch to cut off an electric fuel pump if there is no oil pressure) will work with the stock S30 gauges? If so, could this be used as a safety switch for said electric fuel pump?

No, the crank he is referring to is a stock 280 crank reground. With a stock LD28 crank, you don't need to regrind the 280 crank, and it bolts up. You can find lots of information on it here, by using the search function. MUCH MORE COST EFFECTIVE. OR you can use a reground LD28 crank AND BLOCK and L24E rods, for nearly 3.4L displacement. But, $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ are involved...serious cash here.

Count me in for a trigger wheel mount. Since I'm using both the stock alt mounting position and the AC mounting bracket, I'll have to figure out where to mount the VR sensor, but that trigger wheel mount is slick.

2.22$ for 87, 2.68 for 89, and 2.99 for 93 here in Bowling Green, KY (gouging on the 93 for the local corvette crowd....)

Check out the C200 differential for part #'s too, the ring gears are the same part numbers, and ratios up to 4.686 are available.

Yep, you need some good 'ol 30wt or 10-W30. I have a case of Valvolene SH grade 30wt here for break-in and first two oil changes. After that, i'll swap to valvolene VR-1 10-W30. Got the ZDDP the motor needs, and it's the right weight.

Well, it looks like i'll be waiting on the rebuild anyway, the machine shop buggered my rods up. I was having them assemble the pistons and rods, and install 8mm ARP rod bolts. Instead, they drilled the rods for 9mm ARP rod bolts, ruining them in the process. It has become obvious to me that the rods can't simply be drilled out, you'll run the rod bolt into the back of the bearing shells. I got the correct 8mm rod bolts for free, and luckily they had not installed the pistons yet, but now I'm out a set of 133mm long-8mm bolt rods.

So really, it's a non-issue and I do not need a rebalance? I know the crank was balanced when it was lightened, as the shop that did my block also did that crank 4 years ago. (They keep records and also stamp an ID number into the end of the crank snout, on the flat that the crank pulley bolt mates to.) Thanks guys, I'll go put my bottom end back together tonight.

then why, pray tell, would an stroker motor need to get the LD28 crank rebalanced? the crank isn't altered in any way, just the weights on it. Either way, 40g lighter piston/rod assemblies means the metal comes out of the crank, and no mallory metal needs to go in. (less $$$$)

Thanks, TonyD. I figured it would, but also thought that it may have been "close 'nuff". Now I know.

The crankshaft was lightened and balanced by a professional shop for the original L28 with the 40g heavier rod/piston assemblies. I haven't touched the crank, except to clean and inspect it. It's in perfect shape, which is why it's being used instead of lightening the other crank up and having it rebalanced...

I'm building a bored L28, using a (somewhat) lightened L28 crank (2.4lbs lighter than a completely stock L28 crank), and I need to know if it's imperative that I re-balance the crankshaft. Originally, the crank was used with stock 86mm flattop pistons and 130mm rods. I am using 88mm Z22S pistons and 133mm rods. The total weight difference in the {rod, rod bolts+nuts, wrist pin, piston, rings} is 40g each-my setup is lighter. Do I need to go ahead and re-balance the crank, or is this insignificant?

There are no factory forged pistons for the KA24 engines, and unless you flycut the pistons, you'll have to run a 2mm headgasket anyway. Pretty much, your options are as such: $$$$$-Forgies: Anything you want, you can get, with enough cash. $$-Nissan Z24 piston: LD crank, L24 rods, N42 head, somewhere around 9.3:1 compression with a 1mm headgasket. (DISHED PISTON). Piston protrudes 0.65mm from the deck. stock piston protrudes 0.22mm from the deck, IIRC $$$-Nissan KA24E piston: LD crank, L24 rods, N42 head, somewhere around 11.5:1 compression with a 1mm headgasket, (FLAT-TOP PISTON) Piston protrudes 0.65mm from the deck. stock piston protrudes 0.22mm from the deck, IIRC $$$-Nissan KA24DE piston: LD crank, L24 rods, N42 head, somewhere around 9.3:1 compression with a 1mm headgasket. (DISHED PISTON). Piston protrudes 0.65mm from the deck. stock piston protrudes 0.22mm from the deck, IIRC

I'm looking for strength of transmission, and highway fuel economy. Its' possible that I could find a 3.7 or 3.9 diff at the local yard, but it'd probably cost 300-400$. there's only one 280ZX, and two Z31's out there, one of which is a turbo model. Hopefully, it's all still there. Here's the plan 200-220 crank horsepower L28 240SX trans, bellhousing swap, speedo swap 3.545 R180 differential, or 3.7 R160 LSD. The R160 needs new bearings and the LSD was clumsily removed by the PO and has lots of broken off bolts and two stripped out threaded holes. I.E., It's garbage, but I may repair it later on and use it. We'll see. Should put me crusing in 5th at 70mph and 1700RPM or so, if my math is correct. Good for milage, and when you drive 250 Miles to see the lady, gas adds up fast...

You can probably get it working in blow thru mode, if you make a pressure hat or something for it. It would be very, very interesting, i think. I don't recall anyone ever doing that on a Z, but maybe someone had done it on a truck or smaller car, this is pretty much just a 6 Cyl version of the L4 and Z4 single carb intakes.

Search. It's just a turbo, you need to know what type and who made it to get a flow map. You need a different ECU, a different exhaust manifold, a different intake manifold, a different cylinder head, a different this, different that, you'll need to search the forums here to find out. Obviously, you never read the forum rules here, did you?

don't even bother with AN fittings. those look like SAE 45* flare fittings, they are equivilent, but non-mating. Any hardware store has them.

The NON-ideal solution to the L28 crank + L24 rods is the Z22S piston, ITM part number RY6116. unfortunately, it won't fit in a P30 block due to its 87mm diameter, and it has a ~9cc dish. The pin height that you need is 35.5mm, custom forgies are probably the only way here.