Xnke

Here's what I would do: Replace all the rings, and hone the bores. No hone=glazed rings. Replace all the bearings, and the crank, and crank rear seals. Replace headgasket, oil pan gasket, and valve cover gasket, assuming I didn't tear anything up.

The C box from '87 and newer has 1mm wider gears, depending on the gearset. I don't know what gearsets are wide, and what are not, but my 200SX trans (CA20e) has all the wide gears except the countershaft gear, it has a thin spacer-gear along the actual gear. The C trans will hold about 400whp reliably, according to a lot of the KA and SR forums, and the B trans will hold 250-300, usually. IF you use the B box countershaft bearing, the C trans is reduced to 250-300 as well, so you gotta machine the L bellhousing for the C countershaft bearing if you want the extra strength. ALL the C box transmissions are similar in strength, from within a year. All of them will bolt up to the L series front case, with the same mods. No problems there, as far as I know.

In Australia, the 240SX does not exist, as far as I know. Wasn't the KA engine a US only thing? Try the following engined cars: Anything POST '87 with CA18, CA20, RB20, KA24 (if you got that there) or possibly the SR, not sure if the SR trans is a FS5W71C or not. cars include the S12, S13, S14, Xterra, and some hardbody trucks. NOT a bolt in swap, as you'll be needing a L-series 5 speed front case, machine for the larger 16mm 1-2 shift rod, AND you'll need to machine for the larger 62 countershaft bearing, and provide clearance for the larger and thicker countershaft gear. IF you use an L-series 4 speed front case, you'll need to move the reverse switch forward 22mm. Also, you'll need to shorten the driveshaft 50mm, and remove the dust collar from the shaft. Move the transmission mount back about 50mm as well, but measure to be sure as every car is a little different. Also, the Z31 not-turbo trans will work from '84 and up, but mid-'86 they got a double cone syncro on 2nd gear, so '87 and newer are preffered. New from nissan, the FS5W71C is 1540$, plus maybe 120$ of machine work for the L-series bellhousing.

That's how it works. As long as the oil pan is off, then that is the proper method for installing the timing chain and front timing cover.

Not more than 400, if it was me. Believe me, if the floors look like that, the rails are rusty too. Look behind the front wheels, back towards the firewall, and under the battery tray under the hood and under the passenger fender. 5 to 1 says there is a big rusty spot there. It's not terrible to fix, but it will cost you some money. Replacing those floors is a big job, and will require a welder. Preformed replacement floors are available, and the rails that go under them as well. You'll need both if they look like that. I did mine for about 150$ in materials, plus 16 hours of semi-trained labor to form mine from sheetmetal. (I'm an armorer, make steel body armor, so the forming is not difficult for me. I swing an 8lb hand sledge all weekend long, when i'm not working at my real job.) The doglegs are about 35-40$ each, plus the labor to weld them in, and to repair the rocker will be more, but since I haven't had to do that, I don't know the price for the replacement panels. The front lower fenders are not hard to repair, IF the inner support at the back edge of the fender is still solid. More than likely, it's not. Also, the front section of the rocker panel is under that, and not well protected from rust. It will likely be rusted through, and that IS a pain to fix, because the lower edge of the fender bolts on there. As for the exterior body, that looks pretty straight, except for the rust. being a western kentucky Z owner, I would rather have started with that car, because of the interior, because mine was rusted up similarly to that one. I also had a sunroof, and did a roof skin transplant. Big job, took 6 hours plus the cost of the replacement roof. So far, I've spent 400$ on rust repair, and I'm still not finished. Getting close, though. If you're not a patient metal worker, expect to spend close to 2K if you are doing it yourself, and 5-10K if you are having someone do it for you.

I'd take advantage of anything you can get. hell, load it with freon and run A/C on the intake if you have to, that'd drop those intake temps fast

Yes, people have attempted it. But due to the design of the SU's, you just can't tune for a turbo. Carbs can be tuned for peak power ONLY, you can't realistically tune for other spots in the power band, so if you lean out at say, 3500rpm, but are pig rich at 2700, well, you're stuck with it and a blown piston. On top of that, you'll need new floats, which are going to be custom, since no one makes them. Throttle shaft seals, too, and you'll have to figure out how to seal the needle jet assembly to the bottom of the carb. BTW, I need to call you up and chat about getting your floors done. I've been really busy lately with work, and just havn't had time to call...

Or just run it into the intake manifold somewhere, valve cover in front of the throttle plate, crankcase behind the throttle plate.

I'd tack weld them up. The metal filler won't stop rust, and you have to use a file to file it down, sanding does not work. Use a good quality lightweight filler, it'll be easier and look better in the long run. Also, properly applied, even Bondo brand filler is just fine, and will not cause rust. Improperly applied, ANY BRAND OR TYPE of filler will rust out and chip off. The best way that i can find, talking to all the local paint guys here, is as follows: Strip paint, filler, repair rust with a welder and sheetmetal. Use a two part epoxy primer designed to be filled over to encapsulate the entire shell, do your best to get in every crack and crevice. Block sand the entire car. 80 grit. Apply lightweight filler to the areas that need it, making sure that any tacked in places are sealed so water can't get in the seams and cause rust. This is the biggest cause of body filler failures, is water coming in BEHIND the filler. Use 80 grit or 100 grit to shape the filler, then block everything out with 220. The "icing" filler is just a really really really lightweight body filler, that sands out really smooth, kinda like thick primer. Prime again AFTER filler, and block the car out again, first to 220, then 320, then prime again, and wetsand to 320 grit. If needed, prime again and wetsand to at least 600 grit, all over. Definitely wetsand to that grit, but only prime the car if you need to, don't want the paint to get too thick. Use a good bond sealer, This improves adhesion to the basecoat layer. Some of these are ok to sand, some are not, check the can. Apply the basecoat. Usually done in two coats, sanding at MINIMUM 600 grit wet. Usually 800 or 1000 grit is used to colorsand. Apply the clearcoat, follwing the directions. Make sure to use basecoats and clearcoats that are compatable and make sure the primer and sealer are compatable as well. Most don't sand the clear coat, I don't think, but usually three coats of clear go on, and then the paint is allowed to cure. After curing, the paint gets buffed out and looks perfect , we hope!

Ok, so paint: Strip car. Metal filler. (wicked hard to use, don't use it unless you have to.) Epoxy primer. (if you are not using an epoxy primer designed to be filled over, DON'T PRIME YET) Body filler. Spot putty. (VERY VERY LITTLE) Primer. Sealer. Basecoat. (this is your color coat, stop here for single stage) Pearl/Candy. (if used) Clearcoat. Seriously, spot putty is not totally needed, and since it's lacquer based, it will shrink a lot under a two-part primer like what you will be using. (all modern paints are at least two part, some are more.)

Finished all the welding I missed in the floor pans, just need to finish dressing the welds down in some spots for the seat mounts, and get the seat mounts sandblasted. sprayed some more undercoating, the floor and front frame rails now have two full coats. Cleaned the brake lines and distribution block up, got the distribution block remounted, FR brake line installed, MC brake lines installed, and started cleaning the R brake line going back to the rear. Need to remove that extra evap line from the engine bay, and get some new fuel line isolators made up. Probably going back out for a little bit this evening to mark out some firewall gaskets, and get them cut out. (brake booster, clutch master, steering column.) Might even get industrious and scuff sand the interior firewall to prep for paint and sound deadening. Up next on the list of things to repair is the so far neglected cowl area. It's rusty, but the cancerous section has been removed and replaced, so Ospho and POR-15 will again be used to seal everything up. The passenger side rocker area needs to be ospho'd and POR-15'd as well, been waiting for more area before opening another can of POR. That stuff ain't cheap. Still working on the cylinder head, chamber and valve prep. Haven't even started the port matching yet. Looked at the transmission crossmember, and figured out that if i flip the transmission mount rubber around 180*, and then re-drill the mounting point holes as far forward as they will go, I can then weld up the old holes and install mounting reinforcements, and don't have to cut and reweld the trans crossmember like the later model cars. ('72's have a two piece trans crossmember)

Don't do it. It's been gone over before, Tony D has the most answers. Essentially, last time it was discussed, this is the conclusions we came to: Tunability: really really really effin' hard to tune. Get good at retapering the SU needles before even attempting. Even then, expect to spend $$$ at the dyno. Drivability: Not anywhere close to streetable untill you've already got the needles retapered, and spent a lot of time on the dyno, and you'll still get sneezes and coughs off idle and in the lower midrange. Reliability: Depends on how much you want to spend. Cool factor: OMGWTFBBQ WANT! Also, you'll have to figure out how to seal the SU's up for boost. We haven't even gotten to fueling requirements, solid floats, or any of that yet. NOW, that said, somethign that LOOKS like what you are describing, almost indestinguishable, CAN be done and run well: Throttle body injection, using the SU's domes to house a large fuel injector or two, and running a Q45 MAF in draw through mode, with megasquirt. There are a lot of places to hide all the sensors, the Q45 MAF is supported by MS, along with the cobra mustang MAF. I plan to eventually get this setup running using the 240SX IAT sensor, mustang MAF, and an SU TBI conversion. Untill then, I'll just run the SU's N/A, because there are a lot of parts to source.

Finished up the driver's floor pan replacement today, just got a little undercoat left to go and it's done. Same story on the passenger side, a little more welding to fix a rust spot I missed, and then POR-15 all over plus undercoating on the outside. Next on the rust repair list was the battery tray area, ZERO rust visible, until the spot welds were separated and a little rusty seam showed its face. Wire wheel, ospho, reweld, and POR-15. Re-undercoated the fender wells, finished the install of all new suspension bushings in the front end, just waiting on motor mounts. Shortblock is almost finished, just waiting on the head to be ready to put in the timing chain, everything else is done. Oil pan is bolted on, but not torqued, waiting on the timing chain. Susprisingly, the list of repairs is growing shorter, while the list of mods keeps getting longer.

11:1 compression on PUMP GAS!? Wow, you must really have that thing tuned up nice. I'd be skeered to go past 10:1. That welded N42 really does the trick, i guess.

Looks like a good solution for the VQ35 guys. VVT and drive by wire built in!

I did this myself, it's not that hard. Best (easiest for me) method I found was turn a plug on the lathe 40mm in diameter and 5mm thick, put in back side of sprocket, lay out a 45* angle on the back and put a witness mark on the sprocket, flip it over and drill through the holes to get the first three holes. Turn 90* and pin with a 6mm dowel, flip over and drill the fourth hole from the back. Using witness mark, remove dowel, turn plug 45*, drill thru the last four holes. Use a scrap gear so that you are essentially making a template, dowel two of them together (template plus new gear) and drill the 5 holes needed. Piece of cake.

Just add about a gallon of water to that dip tank when it's all done...it'll turn into a rock in about a week. POR-15 is a "Catalyst B" type paint, it hardens via moisture. Done that way to suck the water molecules out of the rusty area.

Picked up an N42 head, and a 77-78 hood with vents at the PaP the other day. Got a 87 CA20E transmission, gonna get that swapped over soon. (maybe this evening.) Gotta fix the welder, ruptured the gas line in the welding lead. Lots of work started, nothing really finished. Started on the rear disk conversion as well, so lots of work there.

Ok, as far as the CA transmissions, get one from an '87 or newer 200SX or 240SX. These have all the goodies, and the most compatable gearing. Timeline for the FS5W71C is as follows: F4W71B four speed, -> 240Z-260Z-280Z 71.5-? F5W71B five speed, -> 280Z to 79 (possibly, not certain.) FS5W71B, five speed, -> 280ZX 79-83 non-turbo FS5W71C, five speed, redesigned tailhousing, shifter, 62mm countershaft bearing upgrade, -> 84-86.5 Z31 non-turbo, S13 84-86.5 with five speed. FS5W71C, five speed, double cone steel syncros on second gear, 1mm wider gear teeth, all previous upgrades carried through, -> '87 and newer S13, S14, Xterra, maybe others. I have not included information on the trucks because i don't have concrete info on those. Also, I don't know the Z31-Z32 crossover change.

Do a search and you will find that the first deep groove ball bearing is NLA from ANYONE, but a usable replacement can be got from Nissan. NZeder came up with the Nissan part number, Hopefully he'll chime in. As far as the rest of the bearings and seals, your nissan dealer or very likely, subaru dealer will have a list of parts. if the bearings are readable, you can get the ABEC numbers off of them, something that looks like "6088" or "6082ZS" or similar. As far as seals, i dunno.

After just having done this in august, my advice is thus: You can't cut the roof like you are thinking, and still have a legal car in a lot of states. On top of that, you are not likely to be able to reweld all the different layers of steel, and thus will get a much weaker structure after the replacement. Besides, you'd have a really hard time getting the windshield in afterward if you mess up at all. Even 0.093" error will require cutting the glass, if you can even get it in at all. Anyway, best to get a 280Z roof, as they (i think) have a reinforcing rail along the underside of the roof skin, making it much more ridged in the end, and prevents pressure dents from forming while handling the skin during the swap. Any roof from '70 to '78 will fit, as long as it's a coupe, the 2+2 roofs are obviously different. To do this, you'll want the donor roof cut at the A and C pillars, and your roof will be removed by cutting all the spot welds along the edges. You will need to remove the windshield, and drill the spot welds along the top edge of that, and then inside the drip rails. When you get to the back edge of the roof, just over the hatch, you'll have to decide where you want to make your cut, I could not find any spot welds here. Likely, i wasn't looking hard enough, they are probably there. Remove the lead filler at the top of the A pillars and C pillars, and then place your cuts carefully so as to make for an easy butt weld later. Practice on your crushed roof for removal, then do the donor roof. If your drip rails are crushed too, then I would scrap the shell. You'll have to get a frame shop to do that work, since the whole unibody will very likely have been tweaked. Ultimately, it's your car, if the rails are crushed and you can get it back together, take lots of pictures for us! A lot of us could use the information.

I usually go to Advance auto or Autozone, they don't have it, but they can get it, you just have to wait a week or so.

I need the little rubber isolators that fit over the fuel lines on the passenger side of the engine bay, that are trapped with the little metal brackets. These hold the stock fuel lines in place. PM me with your price.

Well, the MSA header is apparently a Pacesetter unit and does not have the 90* bend near the bottom. it's just slanted back about 30* from vertical. There are a lot of these out there, but it seems that no one knows where they came from...

Well, you might be sucking air instead of oil...depends on if you blocked off the front pickup hole, or the front pickup hole isn't drilled all the way. Sorry for the thread hijack, back to topic. All my bearings seated in the caps pretty firmly too. Didn't have any problems like you are describing.