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ah, yes, my evil plan is working. with Tony D and Caen Fred on the case, my troubles will be solved and spelled out for me with the Orange-SU-airbox turned-turbo-plenum comes about....that hot air intake is just in the perfect spot for the hidden charge pipe...

It is pretty amazing tech, but it's also about a decade old tech. I've been installing cameras like this on buildings for years, hooked up to similar systems, for medium to high security building complexes. Usually installed on a guard shack, or on some locations, every single intersection within the facility. The system has always been EXPENSIVE. Like six figures for a 30 camera install, before labor costs. It's not the cameras that cost so much, or the computer, but the software licenses. I really see this as a specialty tool, like one or two cars per state. it's not cheap enough to install on every car, because the license issues would be enormous.

Which makes it sound very similar to the ECU's that Howlermonkey is trying to get working. More is better when it comes to choices, especially since M30 ECUs may not be easy to find forever. But, for me I'll wait and see. No dizzy on my engine, so no sequential for me this way.

Seeing as he has worked with the ECU's for a long time, I'm sure he can find the constants and variables needed. it's not that hard, if you know how to look at code. The benefits are many: cheap ECU's modern sequential injection STILL TUNABLE OEM look, for those who need it I'm sure there are more In the end, he wants to do it. biggest thing i see is better milage and a nearly drop in swap. Zcars are not at all common near me, but pathfinders and quest vans are everywhere.

Phred is right, though, regardless. By the way, he gave you all the info needed to port it yourself...

Might try looking at the 4.3, either TBI or Vortec versions....

whoa...might want to check the valves too, the retainer groove may be worn severely, as could the valve seats. of all the heads i've worked with, (probably 40) that only happened on one head, with the softer bronze valve seats, and the seats were eroded back.

No, the fact that it's a '73 would determine that he has flat top pistons...heeeheeehee....Well, Most '73s. I've heard rumors that the '73 240Z's could have dished pistons as well, but I don't know. EDIT: i just re-read his post, and it seems he's already got an L28 installed...my bad...

Replace the timing chain, chain tensioner, and the chain guides, at least. The tensioner is likely worn way out, mine was down to the metal backing and still held the chain in tension. the guides are likely beaten to death by the chain, so I'd replace them too. Might as well, since you have to take the timing cover off.

How about you stop breaking forum rules? You'll get more help that way.

The Datsun exhaust manifold is not cast iron. It's cast steel, and welds beautifully with ER70S wire in the hands of a decent MIG welder.

Ok, for the bracket, it looks like the Maxima rear caliper bracket, but with a deeper offset, and clocked a little differently. I will be cutting out another set tomarrow, and will take pictures of how the bracket is shaped, as well as include the measurements here. You'll need a saw to cut the aluminum, (I used a hacksaw. Not reccomended...) a drill press, and a good half-round file. In the first post, I determined that the following would have to happen for the brakes to fit under my 14" wheels: 10.25" rotor from 89 200SX, 89 240SX, or 82-83 280ZX '89 240SX calipers Bracket: get a maxima flat bracket from the junkyard, or yank the stub axels and use the backing plate for a template to get the spindle bolts correctly located. I layed out my brackets on 6mm plate aluminum. You can use the bracket as a template to locate the ears for the caliper to mount on, but don't drill the caliper mounting holes, because you'll need to lengthen the ears. leave the ears long untill after the holes are drilled. Cut out the bracket, again, leaving the caliper ears long. Mark out the center circle from the maxima bracket, and use it as a template to drill a circle of small holes. break out the chunk in the middle, and get at it with a half-round file and a little kerosene to make it go faster. Bend the ears on the aluminum bracket back at a 45 degree angle, as close as you can to the spindle, but make sure the spindle end still bolts up flat. a bigass vice works good to hold everthing. Move out 1.25" and bend the ears back again, so that the back side of the spindle-end of the bracket and the front side of the caliper-end of the bracket are 0.9" apart, and parallel. I made a gauge out of some scrap sheetmetal to help with this. Now, bolt the flat bracket and the bent bracket together, at the spindle end, so that you can locate the holes for the caliper. Use a 7/16" drill bit to drill all five holes, and BE ACCURATE. nothing worse than having to remake the bracket due to holes being in the wrong spots. Now, bolt the bracket to the spindle, slip the rotor over the lugs, and check the caliper against the bracket. if it looks good, bolt it up, put the lugs on to hold the rotor in place, and spin to make sure that nothing is rubbing. Pull the caliper and put the pads in, and remount and check again. Now, take the car off the jackstands, and put it on the ground. Check for clearance to the brake line bracket. Compress the suspension as much as you can, and check the clearance again. Make absolutely certain that your calipers and brackets don't crash the frame, because it will really ruin your day. If it all still looks good, go get the brake lines made, and hook up the e-brake with a small steel flat with two holes drilled in it as an adaptor to get the pin-ends right. Bolt everything together and check the ebrake, making sure that it engages properly. Bleed the brakes and check the e-brake again, make sure that everything works before you take it out for that triumphant test drive...

Looking for a piece of the banhammer there, i'd cool it a bit. Compression is the fastest way to gain horses i can think of, other than a proper tune. Compression without a tune won't do much good, either, come to think of it. Really, it would be worth it on a N/A engine just for the detonation resistance and cooler engine bays for the L series, as long as it didn't reduce HP in the process. If i was running flat top pistons, i'd do it in a heartbeat. Next rebuild, for sure.

Well, pour a second set of castings, and lop off the #1 and #6 cylinders and find out! might need 1+2 and 5+6, but it's just aluminum...

Please use the search, we recently discussed this in a few threads, and had links to the suppliers. Rarespares has it in AU, and Datsunrestore has it for an outrageous sum in the US. I wish that more companies made this part, as mine is rusted out too.

No pictures yet, but it's basically the same as the '82 maxima rear disk conversion, but with a deeper offset in the bracket. I'll try to snap some tonight.

Finally got around to working on this some more, and the results are great. No rubbing, ebrake works good, AND the only part you have to make is the caliper bracket, because nothing else really fits right. I used some 1/4" plate aluminum, just drew up the bracket on it with a pencil and went at it. pretty much just a simple pair of 45 degree bends to get the caliper set at the right distance off the spindle axis, and centered up on the rotor. '89 240SX calipers '89 240SX rear rotors Custom bracket Remove stock brake lines, custom lines needed: 10mm x 1 inverted flare male to 10mm Nissan banjo bolt.

Rsicard, google the EVIC mk1. The "electronic camshaft" has been done by a total amateur QUITE a while ago, and works, the limitations are solenoid heating plus valve pulsewidths. BTW, the EVIC models run over 10K rpm, and you can run them with absolutely NO throttle plate whatsoever. Just vary the intake valve timing, and GO! Anyway, the fully variable valve timing has also been done on a full sized engine, we did it on an old 327 in the engineering department at the college I used to go to. GM's corvette plant is across town, and we did a LOT of work with the go-fast team that works there. Again, the problems we ran into were solenoid minimum pulsewidths that still allowed for valve control, dumping enough current to activate the solenoid without burning it up, and still being able to overcome the valve springs fast enough. Biggest downside was the heads we were modifying didn't really have much room to mount the solenoids we used, and the ones we used really were not powerful enough to fully control the valve, it's gonna take some serious effort to really get that kind of thing under control.

Try running a vacuum reservoir, a small can or something. That should help with the pulsations.

All this work is great, but i think either Howlermonkey is missing the point of Unclejesse's post, or he understands and i am just missing it: the '02 villager 'distributor' wheel, from the picture, LOOKS very similar to the '82/'83 ZX 'distributor' wheel. If they are not identical marking wise, are they able to be swapped out mechanically? still doesn't sort out the crank angle sensor, but it does provide an easy method of getting the cam sensor sorted out.

An 81 non turbo set would do, since the '81 non turbos for sure came with that setup. Really, the gaskets are not much different, just little things. Mostly the head gasket, differences in water passages.

Passenger side seat mounts are welded in and POR'ed, and got all the front half brake lines cleaned and remounted. Got the trans bushings in (what a nightmare!) and redrilled the mounting holes, just need to weld up the old holes now. Really need to get new engine and trans mounts ordered, but just don't have the money at the moment. Still need to finish up the dang cylinder head, just need to finish the porting and get new valve springs, and probably a new set of intake valves. $$$ issues again... Got the C box trans all reassembled, just gotta get some gear oil in it and a new shifter boot, and finish mounting it up. Then I can measure for my driveshaft and get it sized up right. Then, on to the back half of the car...and more bodywork.

Here's what I would do: Replace all the rings, and hone the bores. No hone=glazed rings. Replace all the bearings, and the crank, and crank rear seals. Replace headgasket, oil pan gasket, and valve cover gasket, assuming I didn't tear anything up.

The C box from '87 and newer has 1mm wider gears, depending on the gearset. I don't know what gearsets are wide, and what are not, but my 200SX trans (CA20e) has all the wide gears except the countershaft gear, it has a thin spacer-gear along the actual gear. The C trans will hold about 400whp reliably, according to a lot of the KA and SR forums, and the B trans will hold 250-300, usually. IF you use the B box countershaft bearing, the C trans is reduced to 250-300 as well, so you gotta machine the L bellhousing for the C countershaft bearing if you want the extra strength. ALL the C box transmissions are similar in strength, from within a year. All of them will bolt up to the L series front case, with the same mods. No problems there, as far as I know.

In Australia, the 240SX does not exist, as far as I know. Wasn't the KA engine a US only thing? Try the following engined cars: Anything POST '87 with CA18, CA20, RB20, KA24 (if you got that there) or possibly the SR, not sure if the SR trans is a FS5W71C or not. cars include the S12, S13, S14, Xterra, and some hardbody trucks. NOT a bolt in swap, as you'll be needing a L-series 5 speed front case, machine for the larger 16mm 1-2 shift rod, AND you'll need to machine for the larger 62 countershaft bearing, and provide clearance for the larger and thicker countershaft gear. IF you use an L-series 4 speed front case, you'll need to move the reverse switch forward 22mm. Also, you'll need to shorten the driveshaft 50mm, and remove the dust collar from the shaft. Move the transmission mount back about 50mm as well, but measure to be sure as every car is a little different. Also, the Z31 not-turbo trans will work from '84 and up, but mid-'86 they got a double cone syncro on 2nd gear, so '87 and newer are preffered. New from nissan, the FS5W71C is 1540$, plus maybe 120$ of machine work for the L-series bellhousing.