TomoHawk

Sorry, you can't have a rollbar because Z's didn't come with them from the factory. What about an extra-wide lap belt cover (with sheep's wool?) Are there plastic/foam/rubber seat covers you can put over the seat bottom to shoe your butt like a racing seat? Something like a kiddie booster for the driver, but not to elevate you?

'78 280Z- Is there anything you can do, either in addition to, or in place of (reasonably!) the stock seat belt to help a driver stay on the seat on a road track? I've done a few laps of AutoX in my 280Z and for that short time, the stock belt is fine, but on a road track, the turns are longer and probably with higher speeds, so there's more opportunity to slip off. My car is basically stock, with Eclipse seats swapped in. I might have a stock Z seat stored somewhere, but I'd assume not for now. I also go to car shows, so I'd need a way to put things back to stock. thx

Nobody is ever there, so what use is it??? Or when is it?

The link to the chat stuff seems to be dead. Did it change?

So they make a pulley that BIG??

My 280Z with the original L28 engine has power steering, which uses the parts from a V6 Mustang (rack & pump). I'm wondering about how long is pump will last since the engine turns higher RPMs- usually about 500 - 1000 RPM. On the highway, it's about 3000 - 3500 and could go up to 4500 for sustained peroids (like 90MPH). wil the pump wear out soon, should I have used one from a 4cyl car? thx

Doyou think those graphics will come off the chrome coil? I'd like to keep the clean, plain-wrapper looks under the hood. Maybe even paint the chrome matte black or something

I've been looking around for anMSB Blaster II coil for my 280Z. It's supposed to be a better upgrade than stock because it has a resistance of 0.73 ohms, with the best range being 0.4- 1.0 Ohm (according to zgarage.com ). Anybody know where a common place to get one? All the online stores i've tried (AutoZone, Murray's) don't have it.

Remember to coat the insides of the wiper pivot boots & pivots liberally with grease before putting the boots on. That's what those rubber boots are for. Waterproof bearing grease would be best.

All the high-end cars with any kind of performance that I've ever seen, like the Lincoln LS, T-Bird, corvette have auto trandsmissions with are fully shiftable manually. You can Either flip a switch or the shift has a dual gate with one side acting like a ratchet shifter so you can bump it up or down a gear at a time. Some with aftermarket rachet (bang-band) shifters. the only difference is trhat there's no clutch- which is the weakest & least efficient part of the system. Auto transmissions nowaday are SO much better than standards that you are actuallu degrading the value of the car with a clutch. Unless the car is 20+ years old... Even the high-dollar street rods have auto transes with ratchet shifters! I guess it just depends if you want the sloppy, retro standard trans or the newer, efficient auto.

Dude, check your wiring diagram. The high beam indicator light isn't part of the circuit for the headlight wiring itself. It only gets powered up from the high-beam side when you click the dimmer switch on. the headlilghts are on a totally separate circuit from the turn signals too. They don't share any fuses or any of the wires. thx

I just got a Motorola m25 (512) off eBay for $40. I'll put the 512 card I have now in there and maybe it'll be good enough.

I was at an HH Gregg store today, and I asked the car audio guy if he has any DVD players that can play a CD with MP3s on it, and he said they don't make any.

CD gets scratched easily and they skip, so I don't care to use those. My radio has a tape player plus minijack for MP3 player. If the MP3 player works out, then I'll take it out of the car when I get out.

I doubt all in-dash DVD players would play MP3s. It needs to be MP3-capable, like the CD/MP3 players are.

I see the point you all are making, but as for me,ory, I can tell you 1Gb is more than enough for any amount of songs I would want to carry with me. Plus, I always store any data I need on USB flash drives. The Ipod is truly a remarkale machine, but at $200+, I'd rather burn (cheap) CDs, then copy to cassettes, and carry those in the car, along with my collection of 100+ cassettes. I can mix the songs to suit the situation or event which is also important to me. If I wanted random music, I'd play the radio. As for using alkalines- I always have a good supply of them in the house, and it'sa no problem grabbing a one or two on the way out the door. I'm a new-millenium-type guy, but I grew up with alkalines, and they are still good friends of mine: sometimes they are BETTER than rechargeables. I have no problems with all the cordage, but I really hope the Ipod people get smart and create a cradle/dock that has ALL the cords on it, or at least plugs on it so you can go from cradle to cigarrette lighter, or to radio head, as you see fit. $200 can buy some good tires instead.

I would like some suggestions for an MP3 player... the Ipod mini & nano are very nice. I'd go with the mini because the display is bigger (easier to read while driving). Others I'm aware of are the Creative Zen, and RCA Lyra 2300 series. My criteria: PLAYLISTS (up to 20 tracks, minimum, EACH) 1 Gb memory MAX (keeps price relatively low) replaceable and/or rechargeable battery (internal-type) Runs on Alkaline, MiMH, or NiCd cells (instead of rechargeable) "big", easy to read display (while bouncing around in a car) easy-to-use controls(for menu navigation) 1/8 inch mini-jack for connection to radio (or portable amp/speakers) FM tuner (option- nice for portability) Adjustable output volume Equilizer settings (ex., Rock, classical, Jazz, Flat) USB connector (obviously) A rechargeable battery pack is nice, although you have to carry a charging adapter, so I kinda lean towards Alkaline cells, because you can just throw a few in the armrest/ashtray). I think the Playlists, memory, and battery are the top 3 criteria, respectively. I'm using a basic one (RCA Lyra) with 638 Mb,and I only use 3 of 8 buttons(Play/pause, Next, prev) while driving, but only 1 playlist thx

Can you measure the distance between the bolts on the motor? I assume there are three holes equally spaced. I can check out various cars at the JY or my Escort, to see if there is another that will fit the bolt patern. Maybe a domestic model will be easier or cheaper. thx

On a 78 280Z L28 N/A e.f.i. where would the PCV thing be? thx

Larry, I replaced the antenna on my 280Z with one that mounts to the rear glass, like the GM cars had in the late 70 & 80s.

the Cold Start Injector only affects (richens) for the first 8-12 seconds after you turn the engine over ( and assuming it starts). After the 8-12 second time (controlled by the Thermotime switch), the should close and the fuel mix should be normal). So the Cold Start Injector doesn't need to be removed.

Kit cars are usually built by people who have the ability to use an engine that's working well, or they put together an engine from good or new parts so that the engine could be considered 'new.' I mean the engine isn't usually a cheap smoker that barely runs, but something that's powerful, implying it's efficient & tuned decently. That kind of engine, even without all the smog equipment, may have some exhaust smoke, but will probably pass an emmissions test. I'd think that these offending smokers are the egines in cars that are poorly kept by people who don't care about the car, or the environment. Maybe they can't afford to keep the engine working properly, so the gubmint is offering some help to get it off the streets in favor of something better,which is where this new idea is from.

I think it's a great idea, but may need some changes in the implementation, so it can be done in other large cities.The worst offenders are the source of the air quality problem, so they should know to do something about it- or else. Getting some assistance is great too. Being one of the cities with the worst air quality, it's only right that it starts there, and logical that they get all the heat from objections. It will clean the air, make everything and everyone healthier, and make life cheaper in the end. Greedy, lazy people trying not to spend any money on anything is what is perpetuating the air quality problem, and assuming all the people in the Hybridz group want the bst performance for the cars, it only makes more sense that the same people will set the best examples on maintaining vehicles. thx

Stomping on the gas pedal isn't how I would put it. More like a slight press. You could also raise the idle speed on the TB, but then it would run fast all the time. It's easy to test both on and off the car, and easier to change.

You don't absolutely need it. It's there just to raise the idle for a few minutes until the engine warms up. If you remove it, just simulate the function by keeping your foot on the gas pedal slightly for a minute or two.