TomoHawk

I like the "minimalist" approach. I like the open space which feels more sporty to me, and it's nicer when you drive a long way. I'm lightening the car by taking off all the heavy stuff that doesn't need to be there, like a/c. Then I cut the console off just behind the switches & I'll put the fire extinguisher where that was (still need a place for the change holder, for toll-booth money). I've already modified the rear deck to flip up for storage, and cut a hole for the full-size spare (only 'heavy' thing in the car). Also removing certain things from the top of the L28 engine that it doesn't really need (EGR doesn't work any way) Just need to retune the computer or AFM for the correct mix. I like to have room for working under the hood, room for airflow, and looks cleaner, too. I'll probably redo the carpets in the end, with vinyl over the hump and carpet for your feet.

Higuys, I think B&M used to make a shift called "H-Gate Shifter" for the 3 & 4 spd auto trans. Does anybody know if you can still get one or is there something new? My goal is to have a shifter that shifts a 3 spd auto trans, but has a 4 spd manual shift pattern. Not like Hurst dual Gate or Buick 442 shifter. thx

I have one on my website that I've been using. It's been totally accurate on everything. You also get other electrical & misc. stuff. Use the Windows Imaging program to view & print, one image per page, then tape it together. I blew up each page to 11 x 17 for better viewing. http://www.angelfire.com/pe2/modeltom/ferrari.html (link is under the photo of the GTO)

Instead of fooling with the lock mechanism, why not just hook up the cable to the striker bracket? Having the cable stick through the body &hatch could get bent up, so You'll need to protect it- looks unsightly. If you just take out one bolt to let the bracket swivel (essentially) and cut one side off so you have a bracket with a pin pointing to the side, you would just have to hook up the cable to the bracket to pull the pin away from the hook. Maybe even build a new bracket with a tapered hook to pull out easier. Or beef up the bracket/pin that's there (how much load is on that hook?)

Has anybody looked into the design of the Ford/Lincoln (LS) SelectShift shifter? It looks cool, and maybe you could adapt it to other automatic transmissions? thx BTW, my L28/Mustang power steering is great!

If it helps you any, I do know that the controller for the intermittent wipers is a LOT like that for the turn signals; it uses the little metal strip that gets hot & breaks the circuit, the makes it again when it cools. FWIW

2slo4 u-- If you had read this topic some more, you'd see that some people have tried rewinding the motor with no improvement. Just about everything has been tried.

The classicZcars.com website must be down or something. Does anyone know the poop? I assume it will be up soon or eventually. thx

Here's my plan for the wiper wiring #1 Find out which pins on the plug go to ground, 12V, the slow, & fast 'power.' #2 Find out if the intermittent pin puts out 12V or a pulse, or what? If it's a pulse ( my thinking), you'll probably need 12V on the slow pin to keep the motor going one cycle. #3 If you need to, you can use some big diodes on the intermittent hookup to 'fool' the motor to think it's in slow speed. I've got no ligic on this- have to figure it out later, after I get the car back. L28/Mustang power steering getting finished Tuesday!

Instead of breaking them, can you just get NOS or new OEM ones? I would feel better if I had something I -knew- was good. Lotsa twisty 50 MPH roads where I live in OH.

Yeah, but I knew the first reply would be about a V8 swap.

Higuy, Really, you should be asking this question over at the 240z.org forums. They specialize in the L-6 engines there.

You should check the Thermotime temp switch too. If it isn't working, the computer thinks the engine is cold and runs the mixture rich. It's an expensive sucker at $60, but important. It's high on my list of stuff, right after the headlights.

Congratulations! Do you think you can get aome body guys to move to Ohio? No -real- body guys/fabricators in Ohio.

RThat's good. Now we just have to figure out which fusible link oe to which circuit(s) on the car.

Do you mean somebody substituted wire for the fusible links? Wire is NOT a fusible link! You're right to put fusible links back in. I just don't remember what goes where & my car is in the shop. I need to write that in my Onwer's Manual.. The MSA book tells you what you need to order.

Dude, If you're talking about seats, can you add on a photo so people can see what you mean? I've never seen Prelude seats.

Make sure you don't have a popup window blocker. or adjust settings to allow popups for this site.

That the stuff I got, man. I'm also trying out some stuff called Evaporust. It takes the rust off really nice and isn't acid or toxic. No.... I didn't drink any!

You just left the T off the word intermittent... no worries, mate.

forget the $5000 entry fee! those guys carry $50,000 in cash to payoff the cops if they get caught!

You won't need to replace the TPS unless it broken or really rusted. All there is are 3 contact tabs, and a plactic fork-thingy to bend the center tab to make contact with the two side tabs. i.e., just a really simple SPDT monentary switch. It's even conceivable that you could move it to the dash and use a SPDT togle switch!

they'll probably require you to drive "modified" hondu accords or something.

The TPS (throttle Position Sensor) tells computer you are at idle or WOT, and the computer richens the mix slilghtly. Check out the Net for a procedure to check & adjust properly.

I recently got an (invitation) through ferrarichat.com to join in a coast-to-coast run. I think that's what you'd be interested in, unless it's really just a cruise event for vintage cars- like the "power Cruise tour."