Larry Mahanor

Looking for the intermittent wiper control module for a 1973 240Z P/N 28820-N3300. Mounts inside passenger side foot well on a bracket with relays and flasher

part is SOLD. Please delete this post

Hello, would you have the intermittent wiper module for the 1973 Z, part number 28820-N3300? It mounts on the bracket with relays in the passenger side foot well under the dash.

New old stock ZTRIX 280YZ air dam. Half price $160.00 plus packing and shipping. Also have several used 280YZ front fenders, half price plus packing and shipping as well.

SOLD. Please delete this post.

NOS RIGHT side sun visor. P/N 96401-N3300 with original wrapper. Searched the P/N online, got no hits, but quite sure it's for a 240Z. $75.00 plus shipping.

Pair of Z fender braces from Ztrix for their various front fiberglass fenders ,ie: IMSA,,Subtle Z, 280YZ, 940Z. These are new and for left hand drive cars. Can't use them on my tube frame race car. Half price; $45.00 plus shipping.

Hi Joe, just weighed the box at 6.16LB, and running the numbers on the UPS website estimates $15.50 to zip code 55127. This is UPS ground service, the least costly. Larry

I have a pair, as far as I know the 1970 through 1978 control arms are all the same. I don't know what year car they came from, but they're in good shape, some minor surface rust. $50.00 plus shipping.

I have one, $25.00 plus shipping.

Hello, I'm looking for the hand brake hinge, the U-shaped part that the brake cable wraps around, and attaches to the under side of the hand brake lever. Mine is a 1973 240Z.

Looking for a 3 wire 240Z tachometer. Most of them are 4 wire type with a square white 4 prong connector. The 3 wire type has 3 threaded studs on the back. Larry

Looking for a 3 wire 240Z tachometer. Most of them are 4 wire type with a square white 4 prong connector. The 3 wire type has 3 threaded studs on the back. Larry

THANK YOU!! I just ordered them from Altec, I didn't even know about them. All the other Zparts places are out of stock and no eta on replenishment.

Looking for CLEAR plastic headlight covers for 240Z

Hello, this looks like an opportunity for me to do some attic cleaning and liquidate some parts I've had for decades and won't ever use. I have three E31s and one E88 for you to pick from. I don't know what the minimum thickness is, but I measured all of them. All prices do not include shipping. First a raw E31 with no hardware, no valves, springs, cam towers or anything, thickness is 4.184". It's $150.00. Second an E31 with most hardware, cam towers, valves, springs and retainers. Thickness is 4.248" It's $250.00. Third a race prepped E31 that I've had for over forty years, haven't raced it for past 6 years. It's been ported, polished the larger L28 valves retro fitted. Isky valve springs and competition retainers It's thickness is 4.198". It's $850.00 The E88 has the cam towers, valves and springs. Thickness is 4.254" It's $250.00 I don't have the oil spray bar for any of them. Some pics of all 4 on my bench. Will send you more detailed pics of any you may be interested in. Larry

Looking for NISMO head gasket, p/n 11044 - E4623 Larry

OK, here they are in their order of assembly and price: the raw head with no hardware is $300 and its intake has been ported, it needs at least one valve guide replaced, the one with valves and no cam towers is $400, and has a broken stud at exhaust port # 1, the one with valves and cam towers is $500 and has the same broken stud, the race head ported polished and comp valves and retainers and Isky springs is $950. the retainers are Nissan comp and are for thicker than stock lash pads for the reground cam I ran. The cam towers are the ones that utilize a spray bar, I don't have one to sell.You specified you wanted a usable head. The only one of the bunch I would consider usable is the race head. The others have been in storage for decades and the valves haven't moved in that long. They are rebuildable but not usable. If you want more detailed pics on any or all of them, please send me your e-mail address and I will. Thanks. Larry

Hello: You inspired me to do a little attic cleaning as I've been thinking about liquidating four E31 heads I've had for years. From pure raw with absoulutely no hardware in it and it has been ported, another with valves springs, retainers, pivot studs and no cam towers (these two have a broken stud at the front of exhaust port # 1), a third with all the hardware (valves, springs, retainers, studs, cam towers). The fourth is a fully prepared race head that I've had for 33 years, and raced with on different blocks. It is ported, fitted with the larger L28 Nissan comp. valves and retainers, Isky springs. It had a professional valve job done on it two years ago. I pulled it off my race enging 14 months ago and is in great shape. If you insist on only buying in the LA area, then we don't need to discuss this, as I live across the country in South Florida. I understand any concern on shipping costs that you may have on the blocks you're looking for, but a head would not be that much to ship. If you're interested, I will post pics on this link, other wise I will post them on the "parts for sale" category. I would also be interested in bartering for, with one of the first three mentioned above for a P90 SQARE PORT (not P90A) Please let me know. Larry

Hi Juan: I think you remember me, I've got a gas tank that came out of a 1978 280Z. It was a new replacement tank put in the car back in the 90's. I think the '75 through '78 tanks are the same. It has the guage sending unit, but missing the twist lock ring that holds the sending unit in the tank. PM me or e-mail lawrencemahanor@comcast.net Larry

Looking for a 280ZX INTERIOR shifter boot (the one in the center console) , the accordian style, preferably in black or dark blue.

Hello: I have a Q45 differential, only I beleive it's called a R230. I wrestled it out a 1994 Infinity Q45. I'm in South Florida. Larry

Hi Jeff: I see you live in Key west and I'm trying to figure out if we've met, as I'm from Ft. Lauderdale and run the Bay Bottom Crawl evey year at Sugarloaf Key in my Z. There was common problem in the 280Zs associated with coolant temp sensor, which is mounted in the thermostat housing. First off, take a look at spark plugs after you experience the problem. If they are very fouled with black sooty deposits, then the engine is running so rich that it can fire the plugs. If so the take a look at the two wires that connect to the sensor. There two round "bullet" connectors on top of the intake manifold, parallel with the throttle shaft. They typically get corroded and make poor contact. Also check the electrical connector that attaches to the coolant sensor, and don't rule out a defective sensor.