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Thanks for this! I'm on this very step now in hopes of finishing the ecu during this Thanks Giving break. The manual is a bit confusing in this step. Alex

That's going to be one clean Z. Thumbs up!

Yes, I think Home Depot carries the Rustoleum "Stop Rust" line but Lowe's carries the "Professional" line. Get the professional line. From what I have read spraying it on is just better and faster. Some people use mineral spirits and some use lacquer thinner. I'm going to use lacquer thinner. Anyways, good luck.

Great write up man! Thanks for the PM by the way. I am still doing body work but I can't wait to get on with this process.

Did anyone tried the below bronco set up? Thoughts on it? http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=131_108&products_id=119

Here are some pics of the ebay flare test mounted on rear:

I bought a set of those (130.00 + 20.00 shipping). They are fiberglass. They fit fine but be ready to do alot of rework and cleaning up. All of them have varying widths and blobs of fiberglass residue where the bolts go. The seller claims they are the same which is not the case. They will need to re-sanded, curve edges straightened, and overall surface filled and sanded appropriately. Final verdict: Spend the extra 60-70 bucks for the ZG flares. The rework and quality do not compare to the ZG flares. I will make these work for me but I would not buy these again. I'll post pics later in case you want to see what they look like. I am still not finished reworking them.

I'm using a 240sx throttle body which measured 2.5" for me.

Yep, it's 3". Thanks for the advice. The only reason I really had it at 2.75" was to be sure I would have enough space in case things got busy in that area. So the 2.75in on the intake site is fine? Thank you all for the input.

Okay, here's what I'm thinking I will need for making my Hx35W turbo work with my IC... am I missing something? Is the 2.75 inch diameter ok? Also, anyone deal with siliconeintakes.com?

Man, it'd be very cool if you made a thread on how you did your car! Looks great! I'm in the middle of doing body work on mine and was planning on using Rustoleum (3 gloss white with 1 almond quart mixed up to get off white and a pearly color). Anyway, looking forward to the thread. Thanks

Love the look of your car!

You should go with gloss black Rustoleum again;)

You can find them here: http://www.svcvacuum.com/power_wheels/tire-h8256-2459.asp They may be a little small for your Z though..haha

Finally got tires of my rear rims. Suspension: Tokico Blue Struts with Eibach Springs. Tires: Yokohama S drives - 245/45/17 Rims: Adven Siena's Gen II 17x8.5 rears 17x7.5 fronts I only installed one rear wheel for a trial fit.

No A/C.

I originally had the same 280Z damper from a 1975 280Z and while it is very similar to Derek's set up (that he based his design on) it will not work with his 36-1 wheel. The diameter of 36-1 wheel is about 1mm larger and it won't go into the damper center hole. I went to the local yard and ran into a 1974 260Z, it had the timing marks on the drivers side just like Derek's and the damper also had a 1mm larger center diameter. I tried on the Derek's wheel and voila, perfect fit. I finally got a new battery for my cam so I will post pictures and measurements comparing the two dampers in the next day or so.

Thanks for all the info. I'll have to find a shop here in San Diego that does the weight removal and also the balancing. What was the cost for all that?

Lol...I don't know why I said collar...but yeas throw out bearing is what I was referring to. Thanks for the response! I'll into getting rid of some flywheel weight. How much did you take off yours?

Woldson, did you use the same collar or did you have to buy a 2+2 or turbo one? Thanks

Okay, my timing marks are on the passenger's side. Derek, are you running an L28 (I am)? Anyways, looks like I can just look for the timing mark plaque thingy and bolt it on the right since the bolts are there and they look to be in the same location as yours. btw, I'm still on for the order. This thread here clarifies the timing marks on opposite sides. The solution seems easy enough I think. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108400&highlight=l28+timing+mark

I'll have to see where my timing indicator is - alternator side or distributor side. I find it so weird your damper timing mark is on the opposite side of mine. Maybe I'm the stoned one here. I'll have to check this after work.

Derek, looking at the damper from the front my timing mark is on the left or passengers side. If I turn the damper on the horizontal plane 180 degrees counter clockwise and take a picture of the backside of the damper then the timing mark will be on the right. Maybe that's were the confusion was. I think my damper is just like yours.

Okay, here are pictures with the timing mark noted. Also, the thread length on the crank screw measured 32mm. Let me know if you need any more measurements. Alex

So there is a timing mark on the damper or is this the timing mark you see on the engine when the damper is installed? I'll measure the threaded part of the bolt when I get home from work. Alex