gwnwar

You do have manifold vacuum hose attached to the fuel pressure regulator?? Is 7th injector leaking/open..

If I remember all black but trans it is raw alum also..

Check the parts for sale section there are a few cars being parted out.

Check the small wire to the starter sounds like it is touching the heavy wire from the batt. Also sounds like you have an ignition switch wearing out..

Cable to the water control valve (hot/cold lever) slipping or need adjustment. Under dash pass side high on side of heater box. Follow heater lines through firewall to it..

To test get a 12V test light look like a screwdriver with a point and a light in the handle and a wire from the handle..or a mutimeter set on like 25 volts DC.. ground the black wire (-) and put red (+) or the point of the test light on the wire to the pump..You might have to break the sealant over the nuts on the pump. You can reseal them later.. Crank eng and check for ight or 12V at the pump. If you don't have it move forward in the car.. fuel relay or other items..Do you have a service manual. get one.. you can down load and print off the wires for your car here.. http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/1d/80/0900823d801d1d80/repairInfoPages.htm You can pull the small black/yellow wire off the starter while testing it will keep the starter from engaging/turning while you have the key in the start position..will save the batt power..

Did you rinse it off with water hose?? If so you most likly have water in the elec connectors, dist cap, plug wires if not new will hold water and make for rough idle/running.. blow/dry all connestors and cap and wires.. After you get it running right again and at an idle you can spray the ign wires with a spray bottle and see if it starts to miss if so replace wires..

Again what is your fuel pressure from the supply line in the engine compartment.. Have you checked it with a gage?? You can buy one (100 PSI) at Home Depot or auto store and the hardwear for it's install.. Get a T fitting and 2 hose barps the same size as the rubber fuel line.. (If you don't know the size of the rubber fuel line cut a 1/2 " off of the end were it attaches to the engine take it with you) Also get 2 hose clamps and a piece of rubber fuel line about a foot long to install and leave on the Fuel pressure gage you have just made for future use. To install attach supple line to gage hose barp and clamp,, attach new rubber line to were supply line goes on engine and clamp.. While cranking see what pressure you have.. You can pinch (vise grips) off the new rubber line, crank engine and see dead head pressure. You can do same as last test but keep holding the fuel line see if it bleeds off pressure if it drops right away the check valve on the fuel pump is bad.. You can also use alittle starter fluid to start eng and check pressures.. Looking for 36psi.. You have checked for 12 volts/power at the fuel pump and a ground while cranking right?? If you don't have it get it before you go on. Let us know what the pressures are..

Check the elec unit on the dist. they go bad with age and heat..will work once they cool off.. next time it happens, right away hit the dist with a shot of freon to cool it off then try to restart..

Do you have teflon tape on all threads/connectors.. Seeing you have copper pipe is it all sodered together?? Have you tryed checking each connector with soapy water mix for leaks. Have you shut off each zone to isolate leaks.. Quick disconnects leak with use. Are the hoses hard lined to the tubing or quick connect.. Have you checked the working end of the hoses connector for leaks and the hose for a leak. Have fun

I believe there is an air gag that has to be set in the dist for the sensor..did you do that..

Try going to this.. http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/1d/80/0900823d801d1d80/repairInfoPages.htm

What do you mean it doesn't work?? No heat or AC, Fan doesn't blow, Does the AC compressor click on,

A small hammer and punch to tap/rotate it out has worked for me.. I would try this before drilling. Replace ALL bolt with graded bolts and lock washers..

have you put a fuel pressure gage on the fuel line at the engine. Put it in line with the supple and the eng with a "T" fitting. See what it is pushing to and returning.. Then pinch the line on the eng side of the gage while cranking to see the max pressure output from the pump,.. keep pinching and stop cranking see if there is a drop in pressure If so the check valve is leaking back.. With the engine turning over use a long screwdriver placed on the injectors and handle to your ear you should be able to hear it clicking check all injectors.. If not you have elec problems

Got one (4.3) in a Miata runs great..350sbc in my 77Z.. Sold the other Miata with the 5.0 Foed..

Are you getting power to the white wire at the volt reg?? if not check your fuse links with a test light or multimeter. If you can get the car to an auto parts store and keep it running they can check the charging system on the car free.

IRad280 did you check the fuse??

What was the car in the shop for ..body work?? Have you tryed the things I wrote about..pulling wires off the amp gage, pull plug from ign.witch, pull plugs from combo switch, all fuses still out of fuse box but the common, wires off the alt, volt reg., and starter and the two wires to the starter B lug bolted together so power goes to fuse link., pull wire from fuel pump. Leave all above unpluged till answer found.. did you say that you unpluged the plugs going into the eng compartment and it does not blow fuses. It's midnight here guess it's around noon there. going to bed got to get up in 6 hrs. good luck

If your wires on the starter look like the photo they are on right..and if your heavy wire from the starter is going to the fattest batt post it is right. You do still have the wires to the alt off right leave them off till you find the problem..Have you unpluged your ignition switch connector and checked. After that check pull the connectors from the combo switch lights/wipers one at a time. This long distance trouble shooting with time zones sucks. What color wires go to your common fuse and what color to the fuse attached to it. is it black or black with white tracer. You might also pull the green wire from the fuel pump.. I can't find a good wire sheet of the fuse box.

If it's a manual 90 weight Redline is a good brand but it does cost more. Loosen the fill plug before you drain it..

You said the neg cable to the starter?? ONLY if it's attched to the mounting bolt to hold the starter to the tranny... NOT to the solenoid B termeral on the solenoid.. Your positive cable from the batt should go to starter solenoid B lug.. and a black wire also from the same lug to a fuse link.. If your batt is not marked the larger of the two posts is the positive. From the neg post on batt. there should be a heavy cable to the engine and a light gage to the firewall.. Make sure the wires to the solenoid B lug don't turn/spin when tightning and ground out to the starter housing..

You have a PM...

Have you unpluged the volt regulator and rechecked for short. If you don't have a wire dig. try this http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/1d/80/0900823d801d1d80/repairInfoPages.htm or just www.autozone.com and look for wire dig or repair info pages sorry for this but..your batt is hooked up right not reversed??

Is master full of fluid..Have someone pump it 3 or 4 times and hold it to the floor while you open and then close the bleed valve. Do this @ 3 or 4 times and check fluid level. Re bleed and check fluid level do this till you get a pedel. Then you can adjust your pedal free play to @ 10mm. If you empty the fluid in the master you have to start all over. Do you replace the slave also or at least check for a leak in it by pulling the rubber boot back and seeing if fluid drips out??