gwnwar

I would guess your short is out forward of the dash/eng harness and the fuse box. Don't add or change anything else till you find the short. pull the wires off the volt meter and the temp presure gages and re check. Does it do it with all wires off the alt. You do have the w/r wire to the insolated lug and the black to the ground lug on the alt right.

All driveshafts I've had made I was asked to put yoke all the way into the trans and them pull out 1". Them take a measure to flat on diff flange. A 1/2" isn't much room for moving of trans and diff..

Take the cover off the TPS make sure the contact points are close enough..from idle to WOT..(rear set)

Do a search there is alot on this.. What thermo are you using.. Did you get all the air out of the system?? Fans turning the right way how big and what air volume do they move.. What turns on/off fans and at what temps.. If using puller fan is it shrouded.. What mixture are you running in radiator.. Were is your timing.. are you running lean.. Water pump pumping/moving water.. Belt tight.. What else is piled up in front of radiator, coolers,custom grill, lights, plate ..

Why not just call JTR for a tracking number on the shipment, That way you'll know were it is and when it will be there.

Spray them with wheel cleaner and a brush.. let the cleaner sit a few min. rush respray sit then rinse with hose..

If adjusted right they will hold up your idle rpms alittle for about 3 seconds when letting off gas. Would not hurt to leave them on.

Have you checked the surface of the valve cover (stright/warpped) with a stright edge.. also check the head for warp were the VC gasket sits.. Does it seem to come from the VC, spark plug seal, head to block ??

I think you can get the same parts for @ $0.10 at home depot

I've never heard injectors sound like that.. Pull the valve cover check the valve adjustment.. and look at the inside of the front of the valve cover for marks that the timing chain has been hitting it. See if all rockers and springs are on.. Is the oil full?? Open oil fill cap with engine running, oil should be flying around..

Ignition starts it.. after running oil pressure switch keeps it going.. If oil pressure go to low fuel pump shuts off.. Alot of this runs through the fuel pump relay.. I think the harness goes down the pass side..

The propeller shaft holds the output shaft inplace..I would replace the seal then keep an eye on it.. Check front "U" joint and if balance weights are still on the shaft..

Is your fuel tank vented and is it working..have you tryed running with the filler cap off..

Was it making the noise before the valve adjustment?? It sounds like valve noise.. Do a cold adjustment on them.. What are you setting them to?? Is oil up to full.. is oil getting to top end??

JTR has a cable for @ $70.00

Building 1978z w/350 chevy with carb. Can I use the stock 280 elec fuel pump with a Holley pressure regulator with bypass return and gage up front. Will the stock elec pump be ok and last or should I replace it with a different pump?? If so which one and what output. Last owner who started this swap cut the fuel pressure and return lines/tube and vent tube just behind the trans mount and just ran a rubber fuel injector hose up front.. Would you still run the rubber lines from cut off point or steel lines.. Will stock line size be ok or should I go large..this is a mild 350. Thanks..

Thanks that's what I needed

Why are there 2 wire on the oil pressure switch on a 1978 Z?? Is one for a fuel shut off when oil pressure drops?? If so which goes to gage and were does other go?? Is there a wire diagram of elec system on forum or were can I get one for free on internet.. Thanks

Do they still make those rear quarter window vents???

Big Bore you have a PM