ihiryu

Excuse the epoxy, still cleaning them up! Anyway as you can see on the first pic, there's the three LED's, their order is; left turn signal, high beam, right turn signal. They are nice and bright, and pretty easy to see during the day as well. And I added the rest of the gauges, well just to show them off

I need to update mine with a screen shot of mine. I ended up mounting three LED's on the dash two small green ones and an orange one. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow to update my own thread

Why not MS? I'm sure you could locate someone to build you a MS for dirt cheap.

Disconnect the power (or ground lead, doesn't really matter), hook up a multimeter in between the battery and battery cable. Set the multimeter to amps. Generally speaking, you should only have a drain of .05 or so. Some cars allow higher than that. Slowly disconnect fuses and once the drain goes away that's you're culprit. If you pull the fuse and the multimeter doesn't change, make sure you plug it back in and move on to the next one. But since you're using a maxi-fuse, I tend to think you've got more than one circuit on the maxi-fuse. If that's the case, then you'll have to manually disconnect power from them one at a time. The brakes should always have power. The cigarette lighter is 50/50. A lot of american/older cars generally have cigarette lighters that were constantly on, mine never worked on the Z, so I never bothered with it. Think about it this way, if a car died, or had a failure with the igniton switch (240sx have this issue) where the car just shuts off, and that person goes to brake, but the brake lights never shut off...oh my, think of the havoc it'd create. The problem is that you don't have a short, believe it or not, I'd much rather find a short than a crossed lead.

Hey guys, I've been working on my suspension in my 76. I took out the stub axles, and realized that after reinstalling it, I've got a leak coming from the right side stub. I was on rock auto to try to order the seal, but I have no idea which one it is. Axle Shaft Seal Differential Carrier Gasket Differential Pinion Repair Sleeve Differential Pinion Seal Differential Repair Sleeve Differential Seal Differential Side Cover Seal I'm pretty sure it's not a bearing, CV Joint Boot, Flange, so I've removed them from the list. Axle Shaft seal, and Differential Side Cover Seal sounds right though.

Time to get you some gauges then!! Sorry it took so long, PM replied!

So you used MKIII 1uz swap mounts. So does that mean you no longer have a rubber isolator? Next how did you do the transmission mounts?

Hi, I'm in Texas but not really local to you (killeen). The charging system is pretty simple really. My suggestion to you is to ditch the regulator first. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/ It sucks, but you'll have to get another alternator, but trust me it's worth it. Keep in mind the cars are really old with old outdated technology.

Thanks for the reply, I am having the usual Z gas tank issues. My biggest issue is that I can no longer fill over 8 gallons of gas. I've taken the tank down a few times checked the vent lines and cannot figure it out. I plan to do HPDE's and hopefully one day begin to do NASA. But now it's more along the lines of I want my Z to hold more than eight gallons of gas ha ha. I've been looking into a "wheel well cell" I can't remember who it's made by, but it is FIA legal. That sucker is also almost seven hundred bucks

Thanks guys, it just sucks, I've done a lot and it's still not done. Actually, the biggest moral support came from my girlfriend in a text message (sorry if it gets too sappy), but I sent her a text about the coil over stuff (which she kinda knows, but really just regurgitates on what I've said), and my daily (which is somewhat of a project in itself) was frustrating me. I go, "I feel like I'm just spending money and it doesn't do anything. Well I guess you can't put a price on happiness." She replies, "Yes there is, that price is when you're finally finished with both your cars and how you want them." Me again, "Ha ha.... I'm going to be poor" Her reply "Lol we'll be poor together." I should marry this girl asap

For some reason, I've got an influx of people hitting me up. Yes this group buy is going on for ALL ETERNITY. Or until I die, or speedhut closes. And since someone asked me this; Yes, if you want to gather a few people locally to you, I can put you guys on one big order, however this is a stipulation. That stipulation is, the orders go in at the same time, and SHIP to the same place. I can take payment separately, but IDEALLY, I'd like to take it all at once since it makes me ten times easier for me.

So, I've owned my Z for less than a year, running perfectly fine with the stock L, and even had A/C. Fast forward, and do RB20 with a holset (absolutely hate it, takes forever to spool) yadda yadda yadda. So the car runs...kinda, but decided to move to the suspension parts. Order TTT arms, and tension rods, all that jazz, and tried to do CXRacing coils (just to test it out). The people over at CX say, "yeah the uprights are made of steel". Well surprise surprise, only the fronts are..... Make a ghetto sleeve to couple the rear coils together, and it's too long.... So make a call to McKinney, apparently they sell the kit for megans, and now I'm on the search for a set of megan coils. The problem with being in a never ending project....is the fact that I'm not made of money, just lots of time Okay bitchin' and whinin' done.

Hey guys, I don't like asking for spoon fed answers, but there's so many questions, and ways, and even conflicting answer on what is the right way to install a fuel cell. On my 76, I want to build a weekend racer. I currently have an RB20 which doesn't require a lot of fuel flow, but I'm having issues with my tank and locating one that is good. I don't have a spare tire, so the spare tire well is going to be the place that the cell will be residing. From what I've read thus far a few threads seem to have the same answers: Metal cage, as it sounds a 3/4-1 square tubing cage to sit the fuel cell in. Foam (I'm assuming it's some kind of foam in the tank which made sense since I saw an option on Summit Racing) And a roll over vent. I've looked all over last night (for an hour or so) for this roll over vent, and how to install it. I've also heard of issues with aluminum, and plastic tanks. Originally, I was looking at this unit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-291210/overview/ However, it doesn't have any foam to it. And my biggest concern is that can I use the fittings on the bottom to feed/return my fuel? I don't know how I feel about running fuel lines in the car.

Good explanation! What about guys who have stock brakes up front? Wouldn't using a bigger cause lock in the rear first (what you're trying to avoid). Or maybe a portioning valve will help with that? SOrry for my ignorance, I'm a noob all around

I'm a bit far away from you, I'm about 2.5 hours from ya. I'd be willing to do the work, but someone local might be better for ya.

So did you just drill a hole and put a nut on the other side? You should make these and sell them. I would probably interested if you wanted to

Hey Nigel, I'm definitely interested, and the cost is good. I see rear disc conversion go for upwards of the 600+. May I ask why you didn't want to use the 240SX units?

Sweet, how was the wiring portion of it? Hopefully I didn't give you any wrong info.

I've ordered a few of these....this guy is local to me, so he literally delivers them.

Got some thanks!

As the title states, I'm looking for the strut hat for the rear of my 280z, but I will take a pair of the 240z styled ones. Just in case, the part number is 54320-n3701 Thankss!

greattttt, guess I'm going to have to do it in car as well....

whoops, kinda forgot about this thread. Sorry been working on the suspension part of the whole ordeal. Once I get my coilovers installed, I'll put her down to take a pic of it.

I haven't figured out my pressure switch as well. As a matter of fact, my A/C kit didnt' even mention it at all.

Whoa....what's this I hear about moving the dip stick? Mine is in the stock location.....and it doesn't actually read oil levels for some reason....maybe that's why? Care to fill me in on this dipstick moving?