ihiryu

On an EFI car I disconnect the fuel pump relay, so I'd suppose you should do the same.

Thanks for the response, always good to hear from others that have already done the swap. I wonder if I can just modify a bracket to get it to bring it up. Adding a spacer would mean that I would have to make end links (which would would probably much easier). Are you referring to the RB26 injectors? If so did you use the resistor pack? Also what management are you using??

It just plugged in, but that's when the smoke appeared, so I'm pretty sure it's not right

Actually, I think that's due to the flasher that I hooked up. I took the column apart and couldn't find any burn marks, I didn't see anything, I think that's because when I noticed it, I stopped right away.

Ah that's pretty cool, so the turbos are mounted? I couldn't tell with the pics. I'm definitely interested, I've always been a fan of the Z31, but not the ET motor, also since it's considered the red headed step child of the Z family, would make for a really nice sleeper Have you ventured into wiring it up yet?

Updated with info. I've got the schematics that I got from the FSM. A little hard to understand, but I've already got them and have been looking into them.

As title states, looking for turn signal and hazard switch along with BOTH flasher relays. Let me know what you have. Thanks

76 280Z Okay so haven't had a problem until late last night. My left turn signal works fine, when I go and hit my right turn signal I can hear the flasher relay buzzing like crazy. I hit the hazards, and the arrows on is bright on the left, but dim on the right. This morning, same thing, so I checked my hazard switch (turned it on) and now the arrows don't come on. Still works when I hit the left turn signal though. All the other lights are working (parking, head, reverse etc), just no right front or rear turn signals. Every time I hit the hazard switch it immediately kills the 10a fuse now. I replaced the flasher with one I found at the autoparts store and some smoking came up from my steering column. So I immediately removed the flasher and put the other one back in. Does anyone have a clue? I figured with the hazard fuse blown the turn signals shouldn't work at all. I stuck my head underneath and the wiring appears to be all stock.

So after owning my S30 for three weeks now, after much internal debating, I've decided to go RB20. Why? Well fits with stock engine and transmission mounts, and stock driveshaft saved me virtually $1000.00 bucks right off the back. Plus, I'd rather have a super high redline (used to have a few S2000's). My first step was originally the chassis, so my stock 76 280z got the treatment via MSA. I bought their "JDM kit" which consists of the front valence, rear wing, and fender flares. I went ahead and purchased the head light buckets, along with the Dapper Light HID kit. Got this all installed then purchased the Datsun Competition hood scoop, also from MSA. A week later, my stuff from Tokico showed up, so new struts and lowering springs went in, cut the front spring a coil, and installed the front bump steer kit from MSA. I've got the camber bushings, but have yet to put them in. So I got the motor from ALN JDM Auto Motors in Irving, TX. I drove down there and picked it up. Bought the motor for about $1300.00, the nicest person I've met, definitely worth doing business again. Price was a little high considering it's an RB20, but I'd much rather have someone decently local to me, then having the motor shipped. Missing MAF, and the ECU case is rusty (kinda worried here). So Z32 MAF + SAFC will easily fix that. After some searching came across Pat1's oil pans (and super duper easy sounding wiring guide), and just received it today. $540.00 some odd dollars well spent. I bought the upper and lower gasket kit from Cometic, which includes all the gaskets, I bought the water pump and misc timing tensioners and pulleys from Z1 Motorsports. Gates racing timing belt, Exedy OEM replacement 350Z clutch, MSD fuel pump, came from Options Auto Salon. Today, I just ordered some stuff off of eBay I couldn't really find elsewhere. I bought the turbo exhaust elbow with "screamer" pipe (wastegate pipe isn't hooked up to the rest of the exhaust), downpipe that will have to get modified to our S30 chassis, and FMIC with replica BOV. I'm waiting for the timing belt stuff to make it here before I start stripping the motor. My main concerns are radiator, fans, and A/C. I think I'll just go with Taurus fans (cheap and easy), and wiring it via relays to stay on with Key on. Since I almost always drive with the A/C on, I don't think it'll be a problem. Sorry for no pics just really excited!

NICE! what mounts did you use? Anything custom??

Oh my, that is a lot of work you did there. I'm not comfortable on welding though. Sunny, can't you get the spacers from Modern?

Well Six, seems like you've got me sold on your calipers, I had z32 calipers on my S14 and that made a night and day difference. What would it take for you to make another set?

It looks like you're using stock style struts now aren't you? Forgive me but I'm a S30 noob still. I just lowered mine with new struts and springs, and it looks the same to me.

Thanks Six! Okay so it was a misconception, I thought we would be able to bolt on the z31 caliper also. So if I went with the toyota caliper then I would have to space out the rotor (z31 rotor right?) I also agreed, if you were to sell those brackets, I'd definitely be in line for one. It would make the swap ten times easier for everyone else.

Okay so I was thinking to myself about going to five lug so I did some searching around, and I wanted some verification on it. First, my car is a 76 280Z, So the front of the z31 is a direct swap over. But I've read two different statements, one saying that it would bring the entire hub 3/4's of an inch, and one saying that you would just have to get a spacer for the rotor. Does anyone know which one is correct? The rear on the other hand, we'll have to redrill the hubs using one original stud, and four new holes. What calipers and rotors do I use for the front and rear??

It looks like the factory gauges would work in the PDK dash, if that's the case then it should work.

Looks good, can we get a closer shot?

Looking for a working one, if it's for sure working shoot me a PM with your paypal addy please.

As title states, looking for a good working dome light. I tried to fix mine but no luck

A few people have installed the Speedhut gauges, Bloz up is one of them. You just have to get different screws, to hold the gauges in place. It seemed relatively simple though, and this is the route that I'll be going for sure.

Yeah they are hooked up, the two in the firewall are there. I went out and touched the hoses from the firewall (on the inside) and they are luke warm at best. Car warms up rather normally, so I'm sure there's a thermostat in there.

Thanks for the reply. So at this point, everything that I'm trying to do will have to be a "wait and see" type of deal. I'll be using stock mounts or volvo mounts with Pat1's oil pan. I'll go ahead and remove the sway bar and just see how it sits afterwards. Same thing with cooling, I'll just put on an electric fan, with some kind of controller and see if she'll overheat or not.

Fresh, REC seems to work, defrost moves closes the ports on the side of the heater core. So everything works, I don't know what BI Level does though

Okay, so I've been doing some digging around on the forums and the FSM. Pretty my car has factory A/C, I've taken a look at the vacuum lines in the engine bay, are good, has vacuum at the canister. I look inside my car, and check the cables as best as I can, and I see they are hooked up; same with the vacuums. So what I did was turned on my car, set the blower on max, and moved the valve to heat. There isn't any air moving over the heater core, so I'm pretty sure that's why I don't have heat. Later today when I'll drive it, I'll check to see if the core itself gets hot or not. Anyone have any ideas?

Ha ha, I just did this. The previous owner gave me a new gas tank, 240z bumpers, and the brackets made by AZCARBUM. The front ones are pretty much self explanatory Remove bumper (two nuts connecting bumper to strut per strut, 14mm) Remove strut (three bolts per strut, 14mm), the very last bolt is pretty tricky, I had to use a swivel socket plus really long extension to loosen it. After that, you have to be careful of getting the socket wedged between the bolt and A/C condenser. If you get the same brackets that I did, then you'll have to follow these next steps. Remove tow hooks (on each side there are four bolts each, two you can see, then two underneath the bracket 14mm) Remove lower grille (Three phillips screws) Install brackets where tow hooks were, but do not tighten them all the way. Trim lower grille to fit (if you decide to keep it) Then put on bumpers. Tighten them up and adjust. The rear will make you cry though, I did it yesterday, but I may not have all the steps or bolt sizes off the top of my head. Remove bumper Remove gas tank. There's two vent hoses in the rear, two gas hoses in the front, and the one for the filler on the right side. Once that's all loose, and make sure you've drained the tank, remove the straps. The tank is pretty light, but you'll need two people to remove the straps while someone holds it up. After that, you'll remove the covers for the struts, I think two 10mm, after that lower the car, open up the hatch and you'll find the nuts holding the struts up, I think there was three of them, that were 14mm. At this point, you'll notice theres a screw on the front struts (where the bumpers were connected). SLOWLY untighten the screw, and you'll hear air escaping, once it's done, on the back side of the strut, there's a 10 or 12mm nut that you take out. Once it's completely removed, take a hammer and beat front portion of the strut that had the phillips screw in it. The strut should come apart in two pieces. The struts should come out, and that's pretty much it. Honestly, it took me like three hours to do it. It took me an hour in the front because the screws in the grille were stripped and seized. The rear, I didn't have any issues with the bolts and that took the remainder of my time. Was it worth it? Heck yeah, my car no longer looks terrible, and it kinda feels easier to turn (unless it's in my head)