janaka

what about canadians? city/province?

not sure if you are the person to ask but I'm just curious other than having HybridZ supporter are there other benefits to donating, mainly are there differences between bronze silver etc (other than amount donated)?

For what its worth, probably not much, I have a Spal power window kit in my Z and its fantastic. Connectors were great, worked first try (which is amazing if you knew me lol) and was straight forward to use. I hope that you get this figured out. Good luck

Classic. Much better than the SPAL kit I used for the Z...

I just realized that I did what I said I wouldn't do with the Z: start too many projects. Well I've gone and done it. Lets make a list shall we? Started: Recaro's-installed not yet re-wrapped Fibreglass door panels-not yet finished, not wrapped Cam and LS6 intake to be installed in LS1 (sitting beside Z) Installing Autometer gauges- just started today... LS1 and T56 sitting next to the Z- install scheduled for mid-march Oh what a mess...lol... I need to take a weekend off and I should be able to finish the door panels, the gauges and if I have enough coffee the intake and cam. Then off to the interior guy for the wrapping to complete that. I hope I can get them at least finished before the car goes to the shop for the swap.

I'm with this guy, my regular DVD player does just dandy for my movies on my 50" plasma.

did you do this for the speedo also? That looks like you've done a great job

ok so since these rims are basically useless for the LS1 I'll be needing new shoes for the Z I personally like the sportmaxx 002's that I've seen on a handful (maybe more) Z's on there. I see that they are 16x8 and people are recommending a 0 offest for them. If I get those rims with the 0 offest what's the widest tire that I can fit under stock 280z fenders and Eibach springs? People have 245's with coilovers but I'm not sure on the difference to the Eibach's and if I can fit the 245's or if I could squeeze a 255 on the 8" rims. thoughts? comments?

Not coast to coast but I bought the car in Dec of 06 and drove it home to Ontario (24hr drive) and I survived. Its lowered, all poly bushings and low profile 17's. The ride was not kind to me. After 10 or 12 hrs my back went into spasm and I was a miserable shmuck for the rest of the ride. Thats one of the reasons I put recaro's in the car...stock 30yr old seats aren't the best for long hauls IMO. Its doable though, it all depends if you have back problems like me..lol

http://www.pfyc.com/pc/GN3006/GNUNDER/Taylor+Space+Age+Boot+Protectors.html www.pfyc.com under hood accessories.

Here are some pics of them mocked up in my '76Z. The speakers are Kaption CL 6.5" components. The door cup is out of an '08 Mitsu Lancer (rear door). Obviously they haven't been wrapped yet. I am running a SPAL power window kit with these and have the switches mounted in the console.

you could always get the wire boot protectors (they look like socks) if you want to sheild them from the heat etc.

for $40 I'd get it then take it to a sewing place and get them to finish the edges for you... helluva deal IMO...

http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm

That definately helps Mike. Thank you.

I was on your cardomain page (i believe you wrote in my guestbook recently too) and I like your intake set up. Is that the JTR one? If so what was the cost of their elbows? there order form doesn't have prices on it. is it worth the JCI fluids kit if I will only utilize one of the hoses and still need to purchase something locally? Does anyone have lengths of the heat hoses needed or is that just as needed based on exact install? Also my shop I'm using does HP Tuners tuning as well so I will have the PCM taken care of.

Thanks for the add-ons. I plan on running autometer guages which will come with the senders needed so for me thats why those arent on my list.

thats as good as i can get it guys. sorry it can't space the prices off to the right... better than it was i guess

Please excuse the poor cut/paste job from excel but it works for me... let me know if it doesn't format properly. I hope this is a fairly good outline to any members who are looking to do the swap on the parts needed to do so. I spent quite a bit of time searching and thought I might be able to save some future members some time by merging all my notes into one thread. All part numbers are from Jeg's website unless stated otherwise, not sure where I got the belt # from other than the HybridZ forums... How complete does this list look other than the exhuast work that is obviously needed from the header back? My pricing is based on my local prices (or prices paid) or Jeg's website..so prices may vary on some items. Obviously some will be able to get better prices on stuff, so it can be done cheaper or you know the story. This gives a rough estimate on the cost from my perspective at least on a LS1 drivetrain swap (plus exhuast) assuming you are like me and can't fabricate mounts etc. I have a thick skin so if you see errors or something I've missed please let me know so I can add or correct my list. JCI mounts & bracket $295.00 JTR rad kit $250.00 Fbody fans $0.00 Tilton .875" bore clutch master cyl. PN 75-8754 $100.00 autometer guages (5" speedo and tach, water temp, oil press, volt, fuel) $280.00 JTR 1 3/4" headers $475.00 JCI driveshaft $235.00 JCI Tranny mount $135.00 LS1 + T56 $4,500.00 pulley for no AC Goodyear pulley PN: 49003 $20.00 Belt - NAPA part number 060547 $20.00 Lokar throttle cable PN TC-1000LS148 $50.00 Russel braided brake line PN 632490 $13.99 Intake Tubing $100.00 clutch line Use Russell part # 640281 sold by Jegs $14.00 - 3AN fitting $21.99 90* -3AN fitting $20.00 fuel pump (walbro 255) $195.00 Corvette filter/regulator (napa 3737) $50.00 Total Driveline Upgrades $6,774.98

i drive an '06 civic sedan 5spd for a daily. i'm in sales so fuel economy is a must. haven't had many issues with it and the oil changes are 6k miles apart. good times

I used the SPAL Delux power window kit, not the standard kit (stronger motor in this kit). It works very well. Windows go from down to up in a few seconds only. I'd say its marginally slower than my 2006 Civic with power windows. Its basically an OEM speed. On a side note my passanger window has always been tougher to use, even with the crank and it is a BIT slower at the very bottom going down (takes 1sec longer at the most) but going up is a breeze. I was really hesitant about putting the kit in but with some modifications it worked out to be a modification that will set the car apart and make the functionality of the car better. Now I can easily put both windows down from the drivers seat and still have total control of the car and see the road (instead of leaning all the way over to try to roll it down manually) Feel free to ask any other questions.

Looks like i was wrong. I knew it would happen one day I did under the furthest panel (only panel?) on the hatch to stop the vibration of the panel on the hatch when hitting bumps etc. its noticably better. The eDead was really easy to use IMO. www.edesignaudio.com if you want to see more about it... they have different thickness' available as well as a liquid and a closed cell foam version too... worth looking into. I used the V1 (cheapest one). I used a simple straight blade to cut it and the plastic backing comes of easy. Great adhesion to everything i've stuck it on so far and no preheating of it is needed like some stick on deadeners. I've used it in 10-15*C weather (in my garage) and it still sticks great. The warmer it is the easier it is to work with but even at those low temps it was really easy. I'll be doing my floor with it when I pull my seats out which will probably be next week sometime. I'm thinking two layers will go on to eliminate road/exhaust noise and keep the heat out/in as well.

I have used eDead a few times before. I have my doors and trunk in my civic done with it as well. the rear hatch of the Z has been covered as well already I too had thought about doing kickpanels but in my opinion I found the footwells to be too narrow to have kick pods in them. I felt like they'd be in the way of being comfortable in the drivers seat and the passanger would be cramped. Not to mention the sound quality would be less than great with the interference of legs being in the way... again my thoughts and reasons for going with the door panels. My legs (6'1") don't interfer with the position of the speaker at all so I like them. I'm sure it can be done though if you put the time into it.

Well I spent some time and cleaned up my cardomain page and uploaded a bundle of pictures of the recent updates to the Datsun. So I thought I would share. The audio isn't done by any means but its progress. Surgury this week for me put a real hamper on getting more done but i'll take what i can get. I've spoken about fiberglass panels for the Z before and now they are finally a reality. I had to install power windows for the car as the FG panels didn't allow the old crank windows to operate. So I added a SPAL power window kit. It worked very well. Anyway less typing more pictures. SPAL window kit and edead Stock looking switch location in center console. They even light up when at accessory or car is on.. bonus. here are the panels. Note they are not attached, nor is the mid, nor is the chrome trim by the handle.. just to show Here's a pic with the FG handle and the mitsu door pull cup that worked out well I still have to cut the hole for the tweeter to go in so thats still missing.. but you can get an idea of what it'll look like I will be running a 13kv.3 with this and the amps will be two nine.2's from Elemental Designs. one will be mounted behind each seat as they will fit perfect. I cant load pics onto cardomain for some reason but I'll add those later when I get it to work. Here is the cardomain link if anyone wants to see other parts of the car etc http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2545113 Note the panels are going to be wrapped and not left raw obviously Be gentle, I'm not a fabricator or audio installer I'm a Canuck!

thats what i was going to guess.. is it all 3" piping off the collectors and after the Y?